Easy Crochet Pleated Tennis Skirt Tutorial
If you’ve been scrolling through crochet feeds lately, you’ve probably noticed that the crochet tennis skirt trend is absolutely everywhere. And honestly, it’s easy to see why. These skirts are flirty, functional, and surprisingly beginner-friendly once you understand the basic construction. This tutorial walks you through how to make your own crochet pleated tennis skirt from start to finish, including yarn recommendations, stitch breakdowns, sizing tips, and styling ideas. Whether you’re a beginner looking for your first garment project or an experienced crocheter wanting to add something fun to your wardrobe, this pattern is for you.
Why a Crochet Pleated Tennis Skirt?
Crochet skirts have gone through a serious style evolution. What used to feel like a niche cottage-core accessory is now a mainstream wardrobe staple. The pleated tennis skirt silhouette specifically has a lot going for it. It sits at a flattering length, typically two to four inches above the knee, it moves beautifully when you walk, and the pleating adds a polished, structured look that plain skirts often lack.
What makes the crochet version so special is the texture. Unlike fabric tennis skirts, a crocheted version has that handmade quality that makes people stop and ask, “Did you make that yourself?” And when you say yes, it’s a full conversation starter every time.
Beyond the aesthetic appeal, crocheting your own skirt means you can customize the size, length, and color in ways you simply cannot do with store-bought options. You’re not limited to whatever the retailer decided to stock this season. You can make it in navy for a preppy look, white for a classic tennis court aesthetic, or even a bold bright color that matches your sneakers perfectly.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you start hooking, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you begin makes the process much smoother.
Yarn: You’ll want a lightweight yarn for this project, ideally a DK weight or sport weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Cotton is ideal because it has excellent stitch definition (meaning your crochet stitches will look crisp and clear), it’s breathable for warm weather wear, and it holds its shape well after washing. Some popular options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK, or Drops Safran. For an average adult medium skirt, plan on approximately 400 to 600 yards depending on your desired length.
Hook: A 3.5mm to 4.0mm crochet hook works well for most DK weight cotton yarns. Always check your gauge before starting the full project.
Other supplies: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and elastic for the waistband. You’ll need enough elastic to fit comfortably around your waist with a little overlap for seaming. A sewing needle and thread in a matching color will help you secure the elastic.
Understanding Gauge
Gauge is one of those things that beginners sometimes skip and experienced crocheters always respect. Your gauge determines the final size of your skirt, so taking a few minutes to check it before you commit to the full project is absolutely worth your time.
For this pattern, aim for a gauge of roughly 18 stitches and 20 rows equal to 4 inches in single crochet using a 3.75mm hook and your chosen yarn. If your gauge swatch comes out larger than this, go down a hook size. If it comes out smaller, go up a hook size.
Measure your gauge swatch after you’ve crocheted a piece that’s at least 5 inches by 5 inches so you have enough fabric to measure accurately in the center, away from the edges.
Sizing and Measurements
This pattern is written in a way that you can adapt it to your own body measurements, which is one of the most empowering parts of making your own clothing. Before you start, take the following measurements:
Your waist circumference, your hip circumference (measured at the fullest part), your desired skirt length from waist to hem, and your rise measurement if you want the waistband to sit at the natural waist versus the hips.
A standard sizing guide for this skirt:
For an extra small, you’re working with a waist of approximately 24 to 26 inches. For a small, 26 to 28 inches. For a medium, 28 to 30 inches. For a large, 32 to 34 inches. For an extra large, 34 to 36 inches.
The pleating in this design adds fullness, so the actual number of stitches at the skirt body will be wider than your hip measurement. Generally, you want about 1.5 to 2 times your hip measurement worth of fabric before pleating. This creates that beautiful flare and swing when you move.
Stitch Abbreviations
Here are the stitches used in this tutorial and their standard abbreviations:
ch — chain stitch, sl st — slip stitch, sc — single crochet, dc — double crochet, hdc — half double crochet, sp — space, st — stitch, rep — repeat, RS — right side, WS — wrong side, blo — back loop only, flo — front loop only.
The Pattern: Step by Step
Step 1: The Waistband
Start by crocheting the waistband. This piece will form the top of your skirt and house the elastic, so it needs to be firm and stable.
Chain a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 that equals approximately your waist measurement plus about 1 inch of ease. For a medium (28 to 30 inch waist), this is typically around 130 to 140 chains, but always check against your gauge swatch.
Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn.
Rows 2 through 8: Single crochet in back loop only across the entire row. Chain 1, turn.
Working in the back loop only creates a ridged, ribbed texture that has nice stretch and recovery, which is exactly what you want for a waistband that needs to hug your waist comfortably. After row 8, do not fasten off. Instead, fold the waistband piece in half lengthwise and slip stitch the edges together, leaving one short end open to insert your elastic.
Cut your elastic to your waist measurement minus half an inch (you want it snug but not uncomfortable). Thread the elastic through the waistband tunnel you’ve created, overlap the ends by about an inch, and sew them together securely using a sewing needle and thread. Then slip stitch the remaining open end of the waistband closed.
Step 2: The Skirt Body Foundation
This is where the skirt starts to really take shape. You’ll be working in rounds from the bottom of the waistband outward and downward.
With the right side of the waistband facing you, join your yarn to any stitch along the bottom edge of the waistband.
Round 1: Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet). Work one double crochet in each stitch around the entire bottom edge of the waistband. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. You should have approximately 120 to 160 double crochets depending on your size.
Round 2: Chain 3, double crochet in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.
Repeat round 2 for approximately 3 inches worth of rows. This creates the hip section of the skirt that sits smoothly before the pleating begins. The double crochet stitch gives this fabric a slightly open, airy texture that drapes beautifully and mimics the look of woven fabric better than tighter stitches would.
Step 3: Creating the Pleated Section
This is the part that makes this skirt truly special. The pleats are created by a simple increase technique that adds fullness as you work down the skirt, and then the individual pleats are formed at the end by folding and securing the extra fabric.
Begin your increase round by working 2 double crochets in every third stitch around the entire round. This increases the stitch count by approximately one third, which is what creates the extra fabric for your pleats.
Work 4 to 6 more rounds of standard double crochet without any increases. This creates the pleated panels of the skirt.
On the next round, you’re going to work an increase again, this time placing 2 double crochets in every fourth stitch. Continue working standard double crochet rounds for another 4 to 6 rows.
You can continue this increase pattern for as long as you want the skirt. The more times you repeat it, the more dramatic and full the pleating effect will be, and the longer the skirt will be overall.
Once you’ve reached your desired length, work one final round of single crochet to create a neat, finished hem. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Step 4: Forming the Pleats
Now comes the part that transforms the skirt from a flared A-line shape into a proper pleated tennis skirt. Lay the skirt flat on a table or blocking mat.
Starting at the side seam (or any point you choose to be your starting reference), pinch a section of fabric approximately 1.5 to 2 inches wide and fold it back on itself to create a pleat. The pleat should face either toward the left or toward the right consistently. For a classic knife pleat, all pleats face the same direction. For a box pleat look, alternate the direction every other pleat.
Pin each pleat in place as you work your way around the skirt. Once all your pleats are pinned, use a tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn to tack each pleat in place along the top edge, just below the waistband. Work a few stitches through all layers of the pleat to hold it securely. You don’t need to sew through many inches of fabric, just a few anchoring stitches at the top are enough to hold the shape while still allowing the skirt to flare out as you wear it.
Step 5: Finishing Touches
Once your pleats are secured, give your skirt a gentle hand wash in cool water with a small amount of mild detergent. Lay it flat to dry, gently smoothing the pleats into place as you go. This process is called blocking, and it’s what takes your crochet from “handmade” to “handcrafted.” The yarn will relax and the fabric will become more even and drape-y.
If you want to add any embellishments, this is the moment. A row of shell stitches along the hem is a beautiful finishing touch. Simply join yarn at the hem and work (sc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, sc) in every fourth stitch around for a delicate scalloped edge. You could also add a crocheted belt loop or two at the waistband so you can thread a ribbon or decorative cord through.
Tips for Success
Working with cotton yarn for the first time can feel a little stiff compared to acrylic. Don’t worry, it softens significantly after washing, and the stitch definition you get in return is absolutely worth it.
If your skirt is coming out too long or too short as you work, adjust the number of increase rounds in the pleated section. Each additional round in DK weight cotton adds roughly half an inch to three quarters of an inch to your length.
Always join your rounds with a slip stitch and count your stitches at the end of each round. It’s easy to accidentally gain or lose stitches in rounds, and catching the mistake early saves you a lot of frogging later.
If you want a slightly more structured skirt that holds its pleats even more crisply, consider adding a thin lining of stretch fabric in a matching color. This is entirely optional but gives the skirt a polished, ready-to-wear look.
Styling Your Crochet Pleated Tennis Skirt
One of the best things about this skirt is how versatile it is in terms of styling. For a classic tennis-inspired look, pair it with a white fitted crew neck or a cropped polo, white sneakers, and a small crossbody bag. For something more elevated, pair it with a tucked-in linen blouse and block-heeled sandals.
The skirt also looks wonderful with a matching crochet crop top if you want to commit fully to the handmade aesthetic. Choose the same yarn in a complementary color or the exact same color for a coordinated set that feels intentional and polished.
For a more casual, everyday look, a simple tucked-in fitted t-shirt with chunky platform sneakers hits that sweet spot between sporty and trendy that’s dominating street style right now.
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
What if my pleats aren’t staying in place? Make sure you’re tacking them down with enough stitches and that you’re catching all layers of the fold. You may also want to use a slightly thicker yarn to stitch them down for extra security.
My skirt is too big around the hips. This usually means your gauge is off. Go down a hook size and rework your gauge swatch. A small difference in gauge has a big impact on a garment worked in the round.
Can I make this skirt longer? Absolutely. Simply add more rounds to the skirt body section and add one or two additional increase rounds to maintain the pleated effect throughout the additional length.
What if I don’t know how to do a slip stitch join? A slip stitch is the easiest stitch in crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, and pull that loop directly through the loop already on your hook. That’s it. One movement, no wrapping.
Final Thoughts
Making your own crochet pleated tennis skirt is one of those projects that feels genuinely rewarding from start to finish. You get to see a pile of yarn transform into something you actually want to wear, and you get a garment that fits your body, reflects your style, and holds up beautifully through regular wear and washing.
Don’t be intimidated by the garment construction aspect of this project. The waistband and skirt body are worked in simple, repetitive stitches, and the pleating technique is more about folding and tacking than any complicated stitch work. If you can chain, single crochet, and double crochet, you have all the skills you need.
Take your time, check your gauge, and enjoy the process. There is nothing quite like finishing a handmade garment, slipping it on, and feeling it fit just right. That’s the magic of making your own clothes, and this skirt is a wonderful introduction to crochet garment making that you’ll come back to again and again, in every color of the rainbow.
Happy hooking!
