Free Crochet Tube Top With Mesh Pattern
There is something undeniably satisfying about wearing something you made with your own two hands, especially when it looks like it came straight from a boutique. A crochet tube top with a mesh pattern is exactly that kind of project — elegant, breezy, and far more achievable than it looks. Whether you are a beginner who has mastered the basics or an intermediate crocheter looking for a fun summer project, this pattern is designed to be accessible, customizable, and genuinely beautiful to wear.
In this post, you will find a complete free crochet tube top pattern with a mesh design, including all the materials you need, gauge information, sizing notes, step-by-step instructions, and plenty of tips to help you along the way. Grab your hook, pick your favorite yarn, and let’s get started.
Why Crochet a Tube Top?
Tube tops have made a major comeback in recent years, and the crochet version has taken the crafting world by storm. They are lightweight, versatile, and endlessly customizable. You can dress them up over a flowy maxi skirt for a festival look, pair them with high-waisted jeans for a casual afternoon out, or layer them over a swimsuit for a chic beach cover-up.
The mesh pattern adds a layer of visual interest that plain stitches simply cannot match. The open lace-like structure also makes the top incredibly breathable, which is exactly what you want during warmer months. The good news is that mesh patterns in crochet are largely repetitive once you learn the base stitch sequence, meaning they are meditative and enjoyable to work up rather than stressful.
Beyond the aesthetic appeal, crocheting your own clothing means you can tailor the fit to your actual body. You are not limited to small, medium, and large. You can adjust the width, the height, and the tension to get something that feels made for you — because it is.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern, let’s talk about what you will need to gather.
Yarn: For a lightweight, breathable tube top, the best choice is a fingering weight or DK weight cotton yarn. Cotton is ideal for warm-weather garments because it does not trap heat the way acrylic or wool does. It also has excellent stitch definition, which means your mesh pattern will look crisp and intentional. Some excellent choices include Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and Drops Safran. For a single tube top in a size small to medium, you will need approximately 300 to 400 yards. Larger sizes will require closer to 450 to 550 yards.
Hook: A 4.0mm (G/6) crochet hook works well with DK weight cotton for this pattern. If you are using fingering weight yarn, drop down to a 3.5mm (E/4) hook. Always check your gauge before starting.
Additional tools: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape are all you will need beyond the yarn and hook.
Optional: Elastic cord or fold-over elastic to run through the top edge of the tube top for added security if you prefer a snugger fit at the top.
Gauge
Gauge matters more for garments than for almost any other crochet project. Even a small difference in tension can result in a top that is too wide, too narrow, too long, or too short.
For this pattern, the target gauge is approximately 16 stitches and 10 rows over 4 inches (10 cm) in the mesh pattern using DK weight cotton and a 4.0mm hook. To check your gauge, crochet a swatch of at least 20 stitches wide and 12 rows tall, then block it lightly with water and pins to lay flat. Measure the center of the swatch — not the edges, which can pull.
If your swatch is too wide (more than 4 inches for 16 stitches), try going down a hook size. If it is too narrow, go up a hook size. It is worth taking the time to do this correctly before you invest hours into a finished garment.
Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL, with the key measurement being your bust or chest circumference. The tube top is worked in the round from the bottom up with minimal shaping, so the main variable is the starting width.
XS: 28–30 inch bust — Foundation of 120 chains
S: 32–34 inch bust — Foundation of 136 chains
M: 36–38 inch bust — Foundation of 152 chains
L: 40–42 inch bust — Foundation of 168 chains
XL: 44–46 inch bust — Foundation of 184 chains
The finished height of the top from bottom edge to top edge is approximately 11 inches for all sizes. You can easily add or remove rows at the end to adjust the length to your preference. Each row of mesh adds roughly half an inch to the total height.
A note on fit: This pattern is designed with approximately 1 to 2 inches of negative ease, meaning the finished top will be slightly smaller than your actual measurements and will stretch to fit snugly. If you prefer a looser, more relaxed fit, go up one size.
Abbreviations
The following abbreviations are used throughout the pattern. These follow standard US crochet terminology.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-2 sp — chain-2 space
rep — repeat
sk — skip
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
The Mesh Stitch Pattern
The mesh used in this pattern is a classic open mesh made with double crochets and chain spaces. It is simple enough for a confident beginner but beautiful enough to feel genuinely impressive when finished.
The base stitch repeat for the mesh is a multiple of 4 chains plus 2 for the foundation.
Row/Round Mesh Pattern:
Chain 2 (counts as first dc), skip 1 stitch, dc in next stitch, ch 2, skip 2 stitches, dc in next stitch. Repeat from the ch-2, skip-2, dc sequence to the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2.
This creates the classic grid-like mesh that gives the top its airy, open texture.
Pattern Instructions
Foundation Chain
Using your yarn and 4.0mm hook, make a foundation chain in the number appropriate for your size (see sizing section above). Be careful not to twist the chain as you join it into a round with a slip stitch into the first chain. This is the only moment where a twist could ruin the entire project — take your time and lay the chain flat before joining.
Round 1 (Bottom Border)
Work a round of single crochet evenly around the entire foundation chain, placing one sc in each chain stitch. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. This creates a clean, stable base edge for the top.
Rounds 2 through 3 (Transition Rows)
Round 2: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch to top of chain-3. This creates a solid row of double crochet that transitions between the border and the mesh body.
Round 3: Chain 3, dc in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch to top of chain-3.
These two solid rows provide structure at the hem and help the bottom of the top hold its shape.
Rounds 4 through 20 (Mesh Body)
This is where the magic happens. You will work the mesh pattern in continuous rounds, joining at the end of each round.
Round 4 (and all subsequent mesh rounds):
Chain 4 (counts as first dc plus ch-2), skip 2 stitches, dc in next stitch, then work ch 2, skip 2, dc in next stitch across the round. At the end of the round, work ch 2, skip 2, then join with a slip stitch to the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-4.
Round 5 and onward:
Chain 4, skip the first ch-2 space, dc into the next dc, ch 2, dc into next dc. Continue this sequence around, working each dc into the dc from the previous round (not into the chain spaces). Join at the end of each round with a slip stitch.
Repeat this mesh round until you have completed 17 mesh rounds total (rounds 4 through 20), or until the body of the top reaches your desired height minus about 1 inch for the top border.
The key tip here is to make sure you are always working your double crochets into the dc posts from the previous round, not into the chain spaces. This keeps the mesh aligned vertically, which gives it that clean, structured grid look.
Rounds 21 through 23 (Top Border)
Round 21: Chain 3, work dc into each dc and 2 dc into each ch-2 space around. Join. This fills in the mesh and creates a solid band at the top.
Round 22: Chain 1, sc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 23: Chain 1, sc in each stitch around. Join and fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving in.
This solid top band is essential for structure. It is what keeps the tube top in place and gives it a clean, finished appearance at the bustline.
Finishing
Weave in all ends using your yarn needle. Take your time here — loose ends that work their way out of a garment are frustrating, so weave each one through at least two different directions to secure it well.
Block your finished top by soaking it in cool water for about 10 minutes, gently pressing out the excess water (do not wring), and then pinning it to your desired dimensions on a flat blocking mat. Allow it to dry completely before wearing. Blocking is especially important for cotton garments and mesh patterns — it opens up the lace structure beautifully and gives the top a polished, intentional finish.
If you want to add elastic to the top edge for extra security, fold a piece of fold-over elastic or braided elastic to the inside of the top band and sew it in place with a needle and thread or use a simple whip stitch with a strand of matching yarn. This step is optional but highly recommended if you plan to wear the top to any event where you will be moving around a lot.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to make it your own. Here are some ideas to spark your creativity.
Add a fringe: Cut lengths of yarn two to three times the desired fringe length, fold them in half, and use a crochet hook to attach them to the bottom border. This adds a fun, boho touch that works beautifully with the mesh design.
Try a gradient or ombre effect: Use a self-striping yarn or manually switch colors every few rounds to create a gradient from bottom to top. A sunset ombre from deep coral to soft peach to cream looks absolutely stunning worked up in mesh.
Add straps: If you want a little more coverage or security, crochet two chains of about 60 to 80 stitches and attach them at the top corners of the front and back, tying them behind the neck. This transforms the tube top into a simple halter top.
Adjust the density at the top: For more coverage and support at the bustline, you can work the top 4 rounds in solid double crochet rather than mesh. This creates a bra-line band effect that is both functional and stylish.
Use a different yarn texture: While cotton is ideal, you can also try a bamboo blend for extra drape or a linen yarn for a more structured, earthy look. Each fiber behaves a little differently, so make a swatch first.
Tips for Success
A few additional thoughts that will make your crochet experience smoother and your finished top more polished.
Always join at the end of each round carefully and in the correct stitch. Misjoining even once can create a visible jog in your mesh that will bother you every time you wear the top.
Use stitch markers liberally. Mark the first stitch of each round so you never lose your place, and mark every 20 or 30 stitches around the foundation round to make counting easier.
If your mesh rounds seem to be getting tighter or looser as you go, check that you are not accidentally increasing or decreasing. The dc count should stay consistent from round to round.
Wash your finished top in a mesh laundry bag on a gentle cycle and lay it flat to dry rather than hanging it. Cotton garments can stretch out of shape when hung while wet.
Final Thoughts
A free crochet tube top with a mesh pattern is one of those projects that balances beautifully on the edge of simple and special. It does not demand advanced techniques or complex shaping, yet the finished result looks genuinely elevated — something you would see in a boutique for $60 or $70. The breathable mesh structure, the clean borders, and the custom fit all come together to create a garment that you will reach for again and again throughout warm weather months.
Whether you are making this for yourself, as a gift, or simply to practice working garments in the round, the process is as enjoyable as the outcome. There is something deeply satisfying about holding up a finished top and knowing that every stitch came from your own hands.
Share your finished project online and tag it so the crochet community can see your version. One of the most wonderful things about this craft is how the same pattern produces something unique in every person’s hands — different yarn colors, different tension, different choices of customization. No two are ever exactly alike, and that is exactly the point.
Happy crocheting!
