Free Knitting Cardigan Pattern: A Classic Cable-Front Cardigan for All Skill Levels

There is something deeply satisfying about finishing a handknit cardigan. You wear it out for the first time, someone compliments it, and you get to say those magic words: “Thank you, I made it myself.” If you have been searching for a free knitting cardigan pattern that actually delivers on style, wearability, and clear instructions, you have landed in exactly the right place.

This pattern is designed for knitters with some basic experience — you should be comfortable with knit and purl stitches, basic shaping, and picking up stitches — but it is also written in enough detail that a motivated beginner willing to take their time can absolutely work through it. The finished garment is a classic, slightly relaxed cardigan with a subtle cable panel running up the center front, a ribbed hem and cuffs, and a flattering V-neck. It is the kind of piece you will wear constantly, the sweater you reach for on cool mornings and chilly evenings alike.

Let’s get started.

About This Pattern

This cardigan is worked in pieces — back, two fronts, and two sleeves — and seamed together at the end. Many knitters prefer seamless construction, and there is nothing wrong with that approach, but seamed garments tend to have a more structured, tailored fit, and the seams themselves add stability to the finished piece. If you are new to seaming, this pattern is actually a wonderful opportunity to practice, since all of the seams here are straightforward.

The cable panel on the center front is a simple four-stitch cable that crosses every sixth row. If you have never worked a cable before, do not let the word intimidate you. All a cable requires is a cable needle (or a spare dpn, or even a pencil in a pinch) and the ability to hold a few stitches out of the way while you knit a few others. The instructions below walk you through every step.

Materials

Yarn: Approximately 1,000–1,400 yards of worsted weight yarn (the range accounts for size variation). This pattern works beautifully in a wool or wool-blend yarn that has a little elasticity and good stitch definition. Something like a merino or merino-nylon blend will show off the cable nicely and hold its shape well over time. You can absolutely use a machine-washable superwash wool if you prefer easy care.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5 mm) straight or circular needles for the main body, and US size 6 (4.0 mm) needles for the ribbing. If you tend to knit tightly, go up a needle size. If you knit loosely, go down one.

Notions: Cable needle or spare double-pointed needle, stitch markers, tapestry needle for seaming, four to six buttons (approximately 3/4 inch diameter), stitch holders or waste yarn.

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 7 needles.

Please swatch. I know it feels like an unnecessary extra step, especially when you are excited to dive into the actual project, but gauge affects everything about how your finished cardigan will fit. Knit a swatch of at least 6 inches square, wash and block it the same way you plan to care for the finished garment, and measure it once it is dry. If you have more stitches per inch than the pattern calls for, go up a needle size. If you have fewer, go down. Getting gauge right at the start saves significant frustration later.

Sizes

This pattern is written for sizes Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large).

Finished bust measurement: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) inches. This includes approximately 2 inches of positive ease, meaning the finished garment will be about 2 inches larger than your actual bust measurement, giving you a comfortable, relaxed fit without being baggy.

Abbreviations

Before diving into the pattern itself, here is a quick reference for every abbreviation used:

k — knit. p — purl. st(s) — stitch(es). RS — right side. WS — wrong side. k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease). ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease). pm — place marker. sm — slip marker. C4F — cable four front: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 2 stitches from left needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. rep — repeat. beg — beginning. cont — continue. rem — remaining. BO — bind off.

Pattern Notes

The cable panel on the front pieces is always worked on the RS rows. On WS rows, you simply purl across the cable stitches. The cable cross (C4F) happens on Row 1 and then every following sixth row. Keep a small sticky note near your work and mark each time you complete a cable row — it makes tracking much easier than trying to count back through your rows.

When picking up stitches for the button band and neckband at the end, the general rule for stockinette fabric is to pick up approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows along a vertical edge. Along a bound-off or cast-on edge, pick up one stitch for every stitch. These are guidelines, not hard rules — the most important thing is that the band lies flat and does not pull or ripple.

The Pattern

Back

Using smaller needles, cast on 92 (102, 112, 122, 132) stitches.

Work in 2×2 rib (k2, p2 across) for 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until back measures 14 (14.5, 15, 15, 15.5) inches from cast on, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping: BO 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 82 (90, 98, 106, 114) stitches remain.

Decrease row (RS): k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.

Purl back on WS.

Repeat these two rows 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times — 70 (76, 82, 88, 94) stitches remain.

Work even in stockinette until armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) inches, ending with a WS row.

Shoulder and Neck Shaping:

Next row (RS): Knit 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) stitches, BO center 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches, knit to end.

Working both shoulders separately (or one at a time), BO 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches at armhole edge twice on each shoulder. Place remaining stitches on holder or BO.

Left Front

Using smaller needles, cast on 46 (51, 56, 61, 66) stitches.

Work in 2×2 rib for 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles.

Setup Row (RS): Knit to last 10 stitches, pm, p3, k4, p3.

The last 10 stitches (between the marker and the end of the row) form the center front cable panel: 3 purl stitches, the 4-stitch cable, then 3 more purl stitches. These stitches frame the cable on either side and create a clean visual line running the full length of the front.

Row 1 (RS, Cable Row): Knit to marker, sm, p3, C4F, p3.

Row 2 (WS): K3, p4, k3, sm, purl to end.

Rows 3–6: Work the stitches as they appear — knit the knits and purl the purls.

Repeat Rows 1–6 as your cable repeat, working the cable cross on every Row 1 and then every sixth row after that, while continuing in stockinette across the rest of the front.

Work until Left Front measures the same as Back to armhole, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping (armhole edge is the right edge on the left front when looking at the RS):

BO 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next RS row — 41 (45, 49, 54, 58) stitches remain.

Purl WS row.

Decrease row (RS): k1, ssk, work to end.

Work WS row even.

Repeat last 2 rows 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times — 35 (38, 41, 46, 49) stitches remain.

Neck Shaping: At the same time as armhole shaping is complete (or immediately after), begin V-neck decreases.

Neck decrease row (RS): Work to last 3 stitches of the cable panel section, k2tog (or ssk, depending on which side of the cable you are on), k1.

Repeat this decrease every RS row 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) more times — 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) stitches remain for shoulder.

Work even until armhole measures same as Back, ending with a WS row.

Shoulder: BO 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches at armhole edge twice.

Right Front

Work as for Left Front, but mirror the shaping: the cable panel is at the beginning of the RS row (p3, k4, p3, pm), armhole shaping begins on a WS row, and neck decreases happen at the beginning of RS rows.

Setup Row (RS): P3, k4, p3, pm, knit to end.

Cable Row (RS): P3, C4F, p3, sm, knit to end.

WS Row: Purl to marker, sm, k3, p4, k3.

Mirror all shaping as described.

Sleeves (Make Two)

Using smaller needles, cast on 44 (44, 48, 48, 52) stitches.

Work in 2×2 rib for 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and work in stockinette.

Increase row (RS): k1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1.

Work this increase row every 8th row 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) times — 64 (68, 72, 76, 80) stitches.

Work even until sleeve measures 18 (18.5, 19, 19, 19.5) inches from cast on, or desired length, ending with a WS row.

Cap Shaping:

BO 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 54 (56, 58, 60, 62) stitches remain.

Decrease row (RS): k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.

Purl WS row.

Repeat these 2 rows until 20 stitches remain.

BO 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

BO remaining 8 stitches.

Finishing

Block all pieces before seaming. Wet blocking — soaking the pieces in cool water, pressing out excess moisture in a towel, and pinning to finished measurements — will even out your tension and make seaming much easier. Let everything dry completely before you pick up your tapestry needle.

Seaming Order:

Sew the shoulder seams first. Then set in the sleeves, matching the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and easing the cap evenly around the armhole. Next, sew the side seams from hem to armhole and the sleeve seams from cuff to underarm.

Use mattress stitch for all visible seams — it creates a nearly invisible join on the right side of the work and gives your cardigan a clean, professional finish. For the sleeve cap, whipstitch from the inside works well and is very secure.

Button Band (Left Front for traditional women’s styling, Right Front for men’s):

Using smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit stitches evenly along the front edge, from hem to the beginning of the V-neck shaping. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 inch. BO loosely in rib.

Buttonhole Band (opposite front):

Pick up and knit the same number of stitches as on the button band. Work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib.

On the next row, work buttonholes evenly spaced: for a one-row buttonhole, work to placement, BO 2 stitches, cast on 2 stitches over the gap. Place the first buttonhole about 1/2 inch from the bottom edge and the last one about 1/2 inch below where the V-neck begins, with the remaining buttonholes spaced evenly in between.

Work 3 more rows in rib. BO loosely.

Neckband:

Starting at the right front neck edge with RS facing, pick up and knit stitches along the right front V, across the back neck, and down the left front V. The exact stitch count will vary, but aim for a number divisible by 2. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib. BO loosely. At the base of the V on the inside, you may want to tack the two bands down with a few stitches so the V point stays tidy.

Sew on buttons opposite the buttonholes, weave in all ends, and give the finished garment one final light blocking if needed.

Tips for Success

If you are newer to garment knitting, work on your tension as you go. Many knitters unconsciously knit more tightly when they are concentrating hard, which can affect gauge across the garment. Take breaks, stay relaxed, and remember that slight variations in row-to-row tension even out during blocking.

Keep track of your rows on both fronts simultaneously if you can. Working one row on the left front and then immediately the same row on the right front ensures that your shaping will match perfectly when you go to seam and that both V-necks will hit at the same point.

Yarn substitution is completely fine. The main things to look for are a matching gauge, a fiber content that suits your lifestyle and care preferences, and a yarn with enough twist and stitch definition that the cable reads clearly. Very fluffy or halo-heavy yarns like mohair can obscure cables, so keep that in mind if you are planning a substitution.

Customizing This Pattern

One of the best things about having a solid base pattern is how easy it becomes to make it your own. You can omit the cable panel entirely for a cleaner, minimalist look. You can extend the body length for a longer, more dramatic silhouette, or shorten it for a cropped version. Adding a hood instead of the standard V-neck band is entirely achievable once the base garment is complete — simply pick up stitches around the neck and knit upward, shaping the hood at the top with short rows or a simple seam.

Pocket placement is another fun modification. A simple patch pocket in a contrasting color, or an in-seam pocket added during the side seam construction, turns a beautiful cardigan into something truly functional.

There you have it — a complete, free knitting cardigan pattern that you can return to again and again, adjusting and modifying as your skills grow. Cardigans are one of those wardrobe staples that never go out of style, and a handknit one carries a kind of warmth and personality that nothing store-bought can replicate. Take your time with it, enjoy the process, and wear the finished piece proudly. You made it, after all.