Bogen Mockneck Tank Crochet Pattern: Your Complete Step-by-Step Guide

There is something deeply satisfying about creating a garment that looks like it came straight from a boutique shelf, yet was made entirely by your own hands. The Bogen Mockneck Tank is exactly that kind of project — a piece that turns heads, earns compliments, and carries the quiet pride of handmade craftsmanship. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a new challenge or an intermediate maker ready to level up, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create this stunning top from start to finish.

This written pattern covers the full construction of the Bogen Mockneck Tank, including materials, gauge, sizing, stitch explanations, and row-by-row instructions. Read through the entire post before you begin, gather your supplies, and get ready to fall in love with this project.

What Is the Bogen Mockneck Tank?

The Bogen Mockneck Tank is a crochet top pattern inspired by modern knitwear silhouettes. It features a fitted mockneck collar that sits snugly at the base of the throat, sleeveless armhole openings, and a relaxed but tailored body. The name “Bogen” comes from the German word for arch or bow, which references the elegant arc shaping used in the yoke and hem of this design.

What makes this pattern particularly appealing is its versatility. Depending on your yarn choice, it can be dressed up for a night out or worn casually over high-waisted jeans on a weekend morning. A luxurious cotton-silk blend gives it a breathable summer feel, while a fine merino makes it cozy enough for cooler evenings. The construction is worked largely in the round, with some flat sections for the armholes, making it a manageable project for anyone comfortable with basic shaping techniques.

Materials and Tools

Before you begin, gather the following supplies:

Yarn: Approximately 400–600 yards of DK weight yarn, depending on your size. A smooth yarn with good stitch definition works best for this pattern, as it allows the subtle texture work in the body to really show. Natural fibers like cotton, linen, or bamboo-blend yarns are ideal for a summer tank. For a more substantial fall-weight version, a light merino or cotton-acrylic blend works beautifully.

Crochet Hook: US size E/3.5mm or F/3.75mm. Always work a gauge swatch before starting to confirm which hook size gives you the correct tension.

Notions: Stitch markers (at least 4), a blunt tapestry needle for weaving in ends, measuring tape, scissors, and optionally a blocking board with rust-proof pins for finishing.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet. Getting gauge is not optional with garments. Even a small discrepancy multiplied over hundreds of stitches can result in a top that is significantly too large or too small. Swatch, block your swatch if you plan to block the finished piece, and measure before you cast on.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written in six sizes to accommodate a wide range of bodies. The sizes are based on finished chest measurements, so choose your size based on how much ease you prefer over your actual chest measurement.

Size 1: Finished chest 32 inches — recommended for an actual bust of 28–30 inches (fitted)
Size 2: Finished chest 36 inches — recommended for an actual bust of 32–34 inches
Size 3: Finished chest 40 inches — recommended for an actual bust of 36–38 inches
Size 4: Finished chest 44 inches — recommended for an actual bust of 40–42 inches
Size 5: Finished chest 48 inches — recommended for an actual bust of 44–46 inches
Size 6: Finished chest 52 inches — recommended for an actual bust of 48–50 inches

Throughout the pattern, instructions are written for Size 1 with larger sizes in parentheses: Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6).

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc2tog — half double crochet two together (decrease)
inc — increase (two hdc in the same stitch)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rnd — round
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space

Special Stitch: Arch Texture Stitch

The Bogen Tank’s signature body texture is achieved through a simple arch stitch pattern that creates a gentle ridged effect without adding significant bulk. Here is how to work it:

Arch Row (RS): Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), skip 1 st, hdc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st. Repeat “ch 1, skip 1 st, hdc in next st” across to last st, hdc in last st. Turn.

Return Row (WS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc and in each ch-1 sp across. Turn.

These two rows form the arch pattern repeat. It is easy to memorize after the first few repeats and creates a lovely visual rhythm throughout the body of the tank.

Construction Overview

The Bogen Mockneck Tank is constructed in three main sections. First, you will build the mockneck collar as a tube worked in the round. Second, you will work the body of the tank downward from the base of the collar, shaping the yoke and then splitting for armholes before rejoining for the lower body. Third, you will finish the armhole edges and hem with a clean single crochet border.

This top-down construction method is wonderfully practical because you can try the piece on as you go and adjust the length of the body or the placement of the waist shaping to suit your measurements perfectly.

Part One: The Mockneck Collar

The collar is the first thing people notice about this tank, and it is worth taking your time to get it right.

Foundation: Ch 52 (58, 62, 66, 70, 76). Taking care not to twist your chain, join with a sl st to form a ring.

Rounds 1–12: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch throughout the collar), hdc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (52, 58, 62, 66, 70, 76 sts)

Working in the back loop only for all collar rounds creates the stretchy ribbed effect that allows the neck to fit snugly yet comfortably. Do not join rounds at the same spot every time — stagger your join by one stitch occasionally to avoid a visible seam line if you prefer a more seamless look.

At the end of round 12, your collar should measure approximately 2.5 inches tall. For a higher collar, work an additional 4–6 rounds. For a shorter collar, stop at round 8 or 10. This is a good moment to try the collar on — it should sit at the base of your neck with light but comfortable tension.

Do not fasten off. You will continue directly into the yoke.

Part Two: The Yoke

The yoke transitions from the collar into the body of the tank. During this section, you will work increases to expand the fabric from the narrow collar circumference to the full chest measurement.

Yoke Round 1 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, inc in next st around. Join with sl st. (62, 68, 74, 79, 82, 91 sts — adjust stitch count slightly per your gauge if needed to keep even)

Yoke Rounds 2–4: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Yoke Round 5 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, inc in next st around. Join with sl st.

Yoke Rounds 6–8: Work even in hdc.

Yoke Round 9 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) sts, inc in next st around. Join with sl st.

Yoke Rounds 10–14: Work even in hdc.

After these rounds, your piece should measure approximately 5–6 inches from the top of the collar fold. Try it on. The bottom edge of the yoke should sit right at or just above your underarm. If you need it to be lower — for example, if you have a longer torso or a fuller bust — work an additional 2–4 even rounds before proceeding.

Part Three: Dividing for Armholes

This is the section where the tank takes shape and begins to look like a recognizable garment. You will divide your stitches into front and back panels.

Dividing Round: Work in hdc across the first 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts for the front. Ch 6 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10) for the underarm bridge. Skip the next 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts for the armhole. Work in hdc across the next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts for the back. Ch 6 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10) for the second underarm bridge. Skip remaining sts. Join with sl st. (76, 88, 96, 104, 116, 124 sts total in body, including underarm chains)

This joining creates the seamless tube of the body. The chain bridges at the underarms form the base of your armhole shaping and will be worked into as you continue down the body.

Part Four: The Body

Now the satisfying part begins — working the body downward with the arch texture stitch.

Body Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st and each ch around. Join. (76, 88, 96, 104, 116, 124 sts)

Body Rounds 2–6: Work even in hdc.

Beginning with Body Round 7, you will introduce the arch texture pattern.

Body Round 7 (Arch Round A): Ch 2, hdc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st around. Adjust ending as needed to keep the pattern even. Join.

Body Round 8 (Arch Round B): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc and each ch-1 sp around. Join.

Repeat these two rounds (Arch Rounds A and B) for a total of 8 arch pattern repeats, which takes you through approximately 16 rounds of body.

Waist Shaping (Optional but Recommended for Sizes 1–4): After completing 10 rounds of body total (before or during arch patterning), work a decrease round as follows:

Decrease Round: Ch 2, hdc in next 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts, hdc2tog around. Join. Work 6 even rounds. Then work a corresponding increase round:

Increase Round: Ch 2, hdc in next 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) sts, inc around. Join.

Continue in arch pattern until the body measures 13 (13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5) inches from the underarm divide, or your desired length.

Final 4 Rounds: Work even in hdc. This creates a clean, stable hem edge.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part Five: Finishing the Armholes

Neat armhole edges are what separate a polished finished garment from a homemade-looking one. Take your time with this step.

Join yarn at the center underarm of one armhole opening. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire armhole opening. When you reach corners or tight curves, adjust your stitch count to keep the edge flat — add stitches where the fabric wants to pull in, and skip a stitch where the fabric wants to ruffle.

Work a second round of sc in BLO. This creates a slight ridge at the edge that mimics a clean knit band.

Fasten off. Repeat for the second armhole.

Part Six: The Hem

The hem is worked directly on the final rounds of the body.

Join yarn at any point along the bottom edge. Work 1 round of sc around the entire hem. Then work 1 round of crab stitch (reverse single crochet) for a decorative rope-like edge that holds its shape beautifully and lies flat without curling.

Fasten off and weave in all remaining ends.

Blocking and Finishing

Blocking transforms a crochet garment from good to exceptional. Wet blocking is recommended for this tank. Submerge the finished piece in cool water and allow it to soak for 15–20 minutes until fully saturated. Gently press out excess water without wringing, then roll the tank in a clean towel and squeeze to remove as much water as possible.

Lay the tank flat on a blocking board or clean dry towel. Pin it to your target measurements, paying particular attention to the collar (which should be pinned to its relaxed circumference rather than stretched), the shoulder width, the chest measurement, and the hem. Allow to dry completely before unpinning — this typically takes 12–24 hours depending on your yarn fiber and ambient humidity.

After blocking, your arch texture stitches will open up beautifully, the collar will relax into its elegant stand, and the overall drape of the garment will improve dramatically.

Yarn Substitution Tips

If the yarn you love does not match the suggested weight or fiber content, here are some things to keep in mind. Yarns with more drape, such as bamboo or Tencel blends, will make the tank hang longer and closer to the body. Yarns with less drape, such as stiff cottons or woolly fibers, will give the tank more structure and a slightly boxy silhouette. Both are beautiful — just different. Whatever yarn you choose, always swatch, block your swatch, and re-measure before committing to the full project.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

If your collar is too tight, check your hook size and try going up half a size. The BLO ribbing is naturally stretchy, but some crocheters work tighter than others. If your body seems to grow too quickly or not quickly enough in circumference, recount your stitches at the end of each increase round — it is easy to accidentally miss an increase in the round structure. If your armhole edges are rippling or puckering, try working fewer or more single crochet stitches in the trim round until the edge lies perfectly flat.

Styling the Bogen Mockneck Tank

This top was made to be lived in. Tuck it into a high-waisted midi skirt for a polished evening look. Let it hang loose over wide-leg trousers for daytime ease. Layer it under an open linen blazer for a transitional season outfit. The mockneck makes it office-appropriate while the sleeveless construction keeps it light and airy. In a deep jewel tone, it is elevated and sophisticated. In an earthy neutral, it is effortlessly casual. The choice of yarn color is truly the final design decision, and it is entirely yours.

Final Thoughts

The Bogen Mockneck Tank is one of those patterns that rewards every hour you put into it. From the satisfying rhythm of the arch texture rows to the moment you first try on the finished piece and feel the collar settle into place at your neck, this project is full of small pleasures. It is the kind of garment you will reach for again and again, and the kind of pattern you will return to in multiple colorways and yarns because once is never quite enough.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy every stitch.