Free Meshed Up Crochet Top Pattern for Beginners
There is something incredibly satisfying about wearing a garment you made yourself, especially when it looks like something you pulled straight from a boutique rack. If you have been searching for a beginner-friendly crochet project that actually feels stylish and wearable, you have found it. This free meshed up crochet top pattern is exactly the kind of project that bridges the gap between “I just learned to crochet” and “I can make real clothing.” It is open, airy, and perfectly suited for layering over a bralette or tank top during warmer months.
This pattern uses a simple mesh stitch that creates a beautiful open-weave fabric. The construction is straightforward, the stitch repeat is easy to memorize after just one row, and the finished result looks far more complicated than it actually is. Whether you are completely new to crochet or have been dabbling for a while and want to try garment-making for the first time, this pattern is designed with you in mind.
Let us get into everything you need to know before you pick up your hook.
What Is a Mesh Stitch?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it helps to understand what makes a mesh stitch so beginner-friendly. At its core, a mesh stitch is simply a combination of chain spaces and single or double crochet stitches worked at regular intervals to create a grid-like or net-like fabric. The open spaces between stitches give the fabric its signature airy look.
Because you are not working into every single stitch, the mesh stitch works up much faster than a solid fabric. This means less time spent on a single project, fewer mistakes to track, and an easier learning curve when it comes to counting rows and maintaining even tension. For someone new to crochet tops and garment construction, the mesh stitch is one of the most forgiving and visually forgiving options available.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start saves a lot of frustration. Here is what you will need for this project.
Yarn: You will want a lightweight yarn for this top. A fingering weight or light DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn works beautifully. Cotton is ideal because it is breathable, drapes well, and holds its shape over time. Look for something labeled as weight 1 (super fine) or weight 2 (fine) if you want the most fluid, lightweight result. Approximately 400 to 600 yards should be enough for a small to medium size, though you may need up to 800 yards for a larger size.
Hook: A 4.0mm to 5.0mm crochet hook pairs well with lightweight cotton yarn for this mesh style. Check the yarn label for the recommended hook size and go up one size from the suggestion to keep your mesh loose and open rather than stiff and tight.
Tapestry needle: You will need this for weaving in ends and seaming the sides of your top.
Scissors
Measuring tape: This is essential for garment making. You will want to measure your bust, waist, and desired length before casting on.
Stitch markers: Optional, but helpful for marking the beginning of rounds if you choose to work in the round.
Understanding the Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL. Because the mesh fabric has a natural amount of stretch and the design is meant to be worn with some ease or even significantly oversized for a trendy look, it is more forgiving than a tightly fitted garment. The finished bust measurement for each size is listed below.
XS: 30 to 32 inches
S: 34 to 36 inches
M: 38 to 40 inches
L: 42 to 44 inches
XL: 46 to 48 inches
To choose your size, measure your actual bust circumference and then decide how much ease you want. For a fitted look, choose the size closest to your actual measurement. For a relaxed or oversized look, go one or two sizes up.
Gauge
Gauge matters in garment making, even with a relaxed mesh pattern. Before starting your top, work a small swatch of about 15 to 20 stitches wide and 10 to 15 rows tall using your chosen hook and yarn. Measure the swatch and count how many stitches and rows equal 4 inches. For this pattern, the target gauge is approximately 14 mesh stitches and 10 rows per 4 inches using a 4.5mm hook with a lightweight cotton yarn.
If your gauge is too tight (meaning you have more stitches per inch than called for), go up a hook size. If your gauge is too loose (fewer stitches per inch), go down a hook size. Taking the time to swatch saves you from the disappointment of a finished top that does not fit.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
If you are new to reading crochet patterns, here are the abbreviations used throughout this pattern.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
rep — repeat
st — stitch
sk — skip
yo — yarn over
The main stitch pattern used in this top is a simple mesh made of double crochets and chain-2 spaces. The repeat is: dc, ch 2, skip 2 stitches, dc. Once you have worked through the first two rows, your hands will know the rhythm and you will barely need to look at the instructions.
Pattern Instructions
This top is worked in two flat panels (a front and a back) that are then seamed together at the sides, leaving armhole openings at the top. You can also add a simple chain strap or leave it strapless, finishing the neckline and armholes with a row of single crochet for a clean edge.
Starting Chain
For size Small, chain 120. Make sure your starting chain is a multiple of 3 plus 3 for the turning chain. Adjust your starting chain for your size based on the gauge you achieved during swatching. The number of chains should correspond to your desired finished width plus a bit of ease.
For reference:
XS: Chain 108
S: Chain 120
M: Chain 132
L: Chain 144
XL: Chain 156
Row 1 (Foundation Row)
Turn your chain and work 1 dc into the 6th chain from your hook. This creates your first mesh space. Then work ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc into the next chain. Repeat this pattern all the way to the end of your foundation chain. Turn your work.
Row 2 (Mesh Pattern Begins)
Chain 5 to turn (this counts as your first dc plus ch-2 space). Skip the first dc and ch-sp below, and work 1 dc into the next dc. Continue across the row working ch 2, skip the ch-sp, dc into the next dc, and repeat to the end of the row. Work your final dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn.
Rows 3 and Onward
Repeat Row 2 for the entirety of the panel. The turning chain of 5 at the beginning of each row counts as your first dc and ch-2 space. Each row begins and ends the same way, which makes it simple to get into a rhythm.
Continue working in this mesh pattern until your panel measures approximately 13 to 15 inches in length from the foundation row, or until you have reached your desired body length. This is the portion of the top that covers the torso from the hip to just below the bust, depending on how long you want the finished top to be. For a cropped look, aim for about 10 to 12 inches. For a longer, more bohemian style, work to 15 or even 18 inches.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Make a second panel exactly the same for the back of the top.
Shaping the Armholes
Once both panels are complete, it is time to shape the armholes. This is what transforms your two flat rectangles into a wearable top.
Place your two panels together with right sides facing and use a tapestry needle and a length of your yarn to seam the side edges together. Work a whipstitch or a slip stitch seam along the sides, starting from the bottom hem and working upward. Seam approximately 8 to 10 inches up each side, then leave an opening of about 6 to 7 inches for the armhole. Continue seaming above the armhole opening at the shoulder for approximately 2 to 3 inches (or however wide you want the shoulder strap portion to be), leaving the center open for the neckline.
For a strapless version, seam the sides up the full length and leave the entire top edge open.
Finishing the Edges
Clean, finished edges make a huge difference in how polished a handmade garment looks. To finish the neckline, armholes, and hem, attach your yarn at any edge and work a single round (or row) of single crochet evenly around the opening. Keep your tension consistent so the edge lays flat without puckering or ruffling.
For a slightly more decorative edge, try a simple picot trim: work sc, ch 3, sl st into the first ch (picot made), sc. Repeat this pattern evenly around the edge for a delicate, feminine finish.
If you would like to add adjustable tie straps instead of a seamed shoulder, cut two lengths of your yarn or use a coordinating ribbon, thread them through the top mesh openings at the shoulders, and tie them in a bow at the top. This gives the top a versatile, adjustable fit that works across different body shapes.
Tips for First-Time Garment Crocheters
Making your first crochet top can feel a little daunting, but there are a few habits that will make the process much smoother.
Work your swatch seriously. It sounds tedious, but your swatch is the single most important thing standing between you and a top that fits. Even experienced crocheters make swatches before starting garments.
Count your stitches at the end of every row for the first several rows. The mesh pattern can be deceptive because the open spaces look like mistakes when they are not. If your stitch count stays consistent, you are doing everything right.
Block your finished panels before seaming. Wet blocking or steam blocking your crochet panels helps them open up, lie flat, and reach their final dimensions. Pin the panels to a foam blocking mat or a clean towel, spray or dampen them, and let them dry completely. You will be amazed at how much more polished the finished fabric looks after blocking.
Do not skip the finishing round around your edges. This step takes maybe 20 minutes and makes your top look ten times more professional.
If your tension is inconsistent, do not worry. The mesh stitch naturally hides a lot of tension variations because the open spaces blend any slight irregularities into the overall look of the fabric.
Ways to Customize This Pattern
One of the best things about a basic mesh top pattern is how customizable it is. Once you understand the structure, you can make it entirely your own.
Try different yarn colors. A classic neutral like ivory or sand is timeless, but a bold terracotta, sage green, or navy makes a real statement. Ombre or self-striping yarns also work beautifully with the mesh structure.
Add fringe to the hem by cutting lengths of yarn and looping them through the bottom chain spaces. A few inches of fringe gives the top a boho feel that works perfectly for beach days or festivals.
Experiment with the length. Make your panels longer for a flowy mesh cover-up or tunic, shorter for an ultra-cropped summer top.
Add a drawstring through the hem or the waistline by threading a length of yarn or a thin ribbon through a row of mesh spaces at the desired point. Pulling the drawstring creates a gathered, defined waist.
Mix stitch patterns by working the bottom two inches in a tighter stitch like a ribbed single crochet for a waistband effect, then transitioning into the mesh for the body of the top.
Washing and Care
Most cotton and cotton-blend yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water. However, always check the label on your specific yarn. Lay your finished top flat to dry to help it maintain its shape. Avoid hanging a wet crochet garment as the weight of the water can stretch it out.
If you used a plant-based fiber like bamboo or linen, the same care rules generally apply. Wool or wool-blend yarns should always be hand-washed and laid flat to dry to prevent felting and shrinkage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make this top in the round instead of flat panels?
Yes, absolutely. If you prefer to avoid seaming, you can work the body of the top in continuous rounds, working your mesh pattern in a spiral or joining at the end of each round with a slip stitch. You would then either work the top portion flat once you reach the armhole height, or separate the front and back panels at that point.
What if I want to add sleeves?
After you have finished the main body and the armhole openings are shaped, you can pick up stitches around the armhole opening and work downward in rounds to create a sleeve. A few inches of mesh worked in the round creates a gorgeous flutter sleeve or short cap sleeve.
I am having trouble keeping my chain-5 turning chain from twisting. Help!
The chain-5 turning chain can sometimes twist or pull awkwardly. Make sure you are working your first dc of each new row into the correct stitch below (the dc that sits directly below, not the chain space). It can also help to place a stitch marker in the top of the turning chain so you know where to work the last stitch at the end of the next row.
My mesh is coming out stiff and tight. What should I do?
Try going up one or two hook sizes. Mesh stitches need room to breathe, and a smaller hook with a tight tension will give you fabric that feels more like netting than a soft, drapey top. The goal is for the fabric to have visible, open chain spaces that are roughly square in shape.
Final Thoughts
This free meshed up crochet top pattern is proof that beginner crochet projects do not have to be boring dishcloths and flat scarves. With just a basic mesh stitch and a little bit of patience, you can create a genuinely wearable, stylish garment that you will reach for again and again throughout the warmer months.
The skills you practice here, working mesh stitches evenly, shaping armholes, seaming panels, and finishing edges cleanly, are the exact same skills that will carry you into more complex garment projects down the road. Think of this top as your gateway into crochet fashion.
Take your time, swatch before you start, and do not be afraid to rip back and redo a section if something is not sitting right. Crochet is endlessly forgiving, and every project teaches you something new. By the time you finish your first mesh top, you will already be thinking about the second one in a different color.
Happy hooking, and wear your finished top with pride.
