Free Crochet Tank Top Pattern: Openwork Mesh Boho Summer Top (PDF Tutorial)
If you’ve been searching for the perfect warm-weather crochet project, this openwork mesh crochet tank top is exactly what you need. Light, airy, and endlessly stylish, this sleeveless top combines bohemian charm with a wearable silhouette that pairs beautifully with high-waisted jeans, a flowy skirt, or your favorite swimsuit as a cover-up. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or someone who’s completed a few beginner projects and is ready to level up, this pattern will guide you through every stitch with clear, easy-to-follow instructions.
This boho summer tank tutorial walks you through creating a breathable mesh fabric using simple repeated stitch combinations. The openwork design means the fabric works up quickly, uses less yarn than a solid stitch, and creates that dreamy, light-filtering texture that has become one of the most sought-after looks in crochet fashion. You’ll be wearing this top on your next vacation, farmers market trip, or afternoon in the garden before you know it.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
There’s something deeply satisfying about crocheting your own clothing, especially when the finished piece looks like something you’d find in a boutique. This mesh crochet top earns its place as a wardrobe staple for several reasons.
First, the construction is straightforward. Rather than complicated shaping techniques or tricky stitch counts, this pattern relies on a repeating mesh motif that you’ll memorize within the first few rows. Once you have the rhythm, the fabric practically builds itself.
Second, it’s completely customizable. The pattern is written for multiple sizes, and the nature of the mesh structure makes it easy to add or subtract repeat units to adjust the fit. Whether you want a relaxed, oversized drape or a fitted silhouette, minor adjustments will get you exactly where you want to be.
Third, it’s genuinely versatile. Crochet up a version in natural cotton for a neutral, earth-toned look, or try a soft terracotta, sage green, or dusty rose for something with more personality. A simple color change gives you an entirely different garment.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you cast on, gather everything so you can work without interruption.
Yarn: Approximately 400–600 yards of DK weight or light worsted cotton yarn, depending on your size. 100% cotton or a cotton-blend yarn is strongly recommended for warm-weather wearability. Cotton has natural breathability and drapes beautifully in openwork designs. Some popular options include Paintbox Simply DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Drops Safran, or Scheepjes Catona in a heavier weight. If you prefer a slight sheen, a cotton-bamboo blend works wonderfully.
Hook: US size H/8 (5.0mm) crochet hook. Depending on your personal tension, you may size up or down by a half millimeter. Always swatch first.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (a handful of locking markers or even small loops of contrasting yarn), and a tape measure.
Optional: Blocking mats and pins. Wet blocking this top after finishing makes a noticeable difference in the drape and evenness of the mesh. It’s not required, but it’s recommended.
Gauge
Gauge matters more in garment construction than in any other type of crochet project. A small difference in tension across many stitches and rows becomes a very large difference in a finished top.
For this pattern, work toward 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches (10cm) in the mesh pattern with your chosen yarn and hook on a swatch of at least 6 inches square. Wash and dry your swatch the same way you plan to care for the finished top before measuring.
If your swatch is too small (more stitches or rows per inch than listed), go up a hook size. If it’s too large, go down a hook size.
Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL. The finished measurements reflect a top intended to be worn with 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning the top is slightly larger than your actual bust measurement for a relaxed, comfortable fit.
XS: 30–32″ bust, finished measurement approximately 33–34″
S: 34–36″ bust, finished measurement approximately 37–38″
M: 38–40″ bust, finished measurement approximately 41–42″
L: 42–44″ bust, finished measurement approximately 45–46″
XL: 46–48″ bust, finished measurement approximately 49–50″
2XL: 50–52″ bust, finished measurement approximately 53–54″
The finished length from underarm to hem is approximately 13–15 inches depending on your preference. Instructions for adjusting length are included in the pattern notes.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
rep — repeat
sk — skip
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only
The mesh stitch used throughout the body of this top is built on a simple (dc, ch 1, skip 1, dc) grid with decorative chain spaces that create the openwork effect. It is not complicated. Once you work the first full pattern repeat, you will find it deeply intuitive.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
This top is worked in the round from the bottom hem upward, which means there are no seams to sew. The body is worked as one continuous tube until the underarm, where you will divide for the front and back panels and work them flat. The straps are added last and can be adjusted for length.
If you prefer to work flat and seam, you can split the pattern into two identical flat panels worked back and forth. The stitch count remains the same; you simply add a turning chain at the beginning of each row and work in rows rather than rounds.
The bottom hem and the neckline edge are finished with a simple row of single crochet worked in the back loop only, which creates a clean, slightly elastic border that lies flat and doesn’t curl.
Crochet tank tops are one of the easiest wearable garments to make because you’re essentially constructing a tube with shaped openings. There are no sleeves to set in, no complicated armscye curves, and no collar construction. If you’ve been wanting to try making your own clothing, this is a wonderful place to start.
The Pattern
Part One: Foundation and Hem
Begin by chaining a foundation chain long enough to go around your body comfortably. For size Medium, chain 148. For other sizes, refer to the chart below. Your foundation chain should be a multiple of 4 plus 4 for the border stitches.
Foundation chain counts:
XS: 116 | S: 132 | M: 148 | L: 164 | XL: 180 | 2XL: 196
Join to the first chain with a slip stitch, being careful not to twist your chain. This is the most important moment of the entire project — a twisted foundation chain cannot be untwisted once you begin working in the round, so lay your chain flat on a surface and confirm it lies in a smooth loop before joining.
Round 1 (Hem Border): Ch 1, sc in BLO around entire foundation chain. Join with sl st to first sc. (Your stitch count matches your starting chain count.)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO in each st around. Join with sl st. (Repeat this round once more for Round 3 if you’d like a slightly thicker hem border.)
Part Two: Mesh Body
Now begins the main openwork mesh pattern. This section creates the beautiful, light-filtering texture that defines the look of this top.
Round 4 (Setup Round): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st; repeat from around. When you reach the beginning, ch 1, join with sl st to the top of the ch-3. You now have a ring of dc posts separated by ch-1 spaces.
Round 5: Sl st into first ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from around. Ch 1, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-4.
Repeat Round 5 for every subsequent round of mesh. Each round, you are placing a dc into the ch-1 space of the previous round and leaving a ch-1 space for the following round. The mesh grid builds up steadily and evenly.
Continue in this mesh pattern until the body measures approximately 10–12 inches from the bottom hem edge, or your desired length. Remember that you will add length during the front and back panel sections worked after the underarm division.
Part Three: Underarm Division
This is where the tube becomes a shaped top. You will identify the front half and back half of your tube (each should have approximately the same number of mesh column repeats) and work them separately.
Dividing Round: Work in established mesh pattern across the first half of your stitches (front panel). Leave the remaining stitches unworked and set aside. You will now work back and forth in rows on the front panel only.
For size Medium, each panel will have approximately 37 dc posts and the spaces between them.
Part Four: Front Panel
Turn your work so you are now working flat. The front panel is worked in rows, continuing the established mesh pattern but turning at the end of each row.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 4, turn, dc in first ch-sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch-sp; repeat across to last ch-sp. Dc in final ch-sp. Turn.
Continue in this established row pattern until the front panel measures approximately 8–10 inches from the underarm division, or until the top reaches your desired height at the front. The total length from hem to shoulder will typically be 20–22 inches for a standard tank top length, though you can adjust this entirely based on your preference.
Shaping the Neckline: To create the classic scoop neckline, work across the first one-third of stitches (right shoulder strap area), leave the center one-third unworked (this open space becomes your neckline), then attach a new strand of yarn to the beginning of the remaining one-third (left shoulder strap area) and work it separately to match.
For a deeper neckline, leave a larger center section unworked. For a more modest neckline, leave a smaller section.
Part Five: Back Panel
Attach yarn to the back panel stitches with a slip stitch and work identically to the front panel. For a simple straight-across back neckline (slightly higher than the front scoop), work the back panel to the same height as the front and shape the neckline by leaving the same center section unworked.
If you prefer a matching scoop back, work the back panel identically to the front.
Part Six: Straps
You now have two front shoulder sections and two back shoulder sections. Join each front section to its corresponding back section to form the straps.
Option A — Crocheted Strap: Continuing from the top edge of the front shoulder section, work a chain long enough to reach the corresponding back shoulder section edge (typically 12–18 chains depending on desired strap length and your shoulder measurements). Slip stitch into the top edge of the back shoulder section to join. Work a row of sc back along the strap and fasten off. Repeat on the opposite side.
Option B — Joined Strap: If you want a fuller, more structured strap, hold the front and back shoulder sections together with wrong sides facing and work a row of sc through both layers simultaneously, joining them as you go. This creates a neat, flat seam that requires no additional finishing.
Option C — Tied Strap: Leave the front and back shoulder sections as open edges and add a simple drawstring-style tie by working a long chain, threading it through the mesh at the shoulder, and tying it in a bow. This gives the top a more casual, adjustable feel that is especially popular in the boho aesthetic.
Finishing
Weave in all ends carefully using your yarn needle. If you have a tail at the underarm division on each side, use it to close any small gaps that may have appeared when you separated the front and back.
Edging: Work a final round of sc in BLO around the entire neckline and around each armhole opening. This gives those edges the same clean, slightly firm finish as the hem and prevents the mesh from stretching unevenly with wear.
Blocking: Fill a basin with cool water, submerge your top, and gently press out any excess water. Do not wring or twist. Lay the top flat on blocking mats, pin it to the correct measurements (check against your desired finished dimensions), and allow it to dry fully. Blocking opens up the mesh beautifully, evens out any tension inconsistencies, and relaxes the fabric into a gorgeous drape that makes the finished piece look professionally made.
Styling Ideas
The beauty of an openwork mesh top is that it works as both a standalone piece and a layering essential. Wear it over a bralette or bandeau with high-waisted linen trousers and sandals for a complete bohemian summer look. Layer it over a fitted tank or longline bra top for more coverage while still showing off the open texture. As a beach cover-up over a swimsuit, it keeps you comfortable while offering just enough sun protection and airflow.
Try making a version in a rich jewel tone — deep teal, terracotta, or mustard — for a more autumnal interpretation that bridges the seasons. A soft neutral like oatmeal, cream, or sand will go with everything you own and become the most-grabbed piece in your wardrobe through three seasons of the year.
Downloadable PDF Version
A clean, printable PDF version of this crochet tank top pattern is available for download. The PDF includes the full written pattern, a sizing chart, a stitch diagram for the mesh repeat, and notes on yarn substitutions. Save it to your device, print it out for your project bag, or add it to your digital pattern library so it’s always within reach when inspiration strikes.
If you make this top, share it — photos of finished projects are one of the best parts of the crochet community, and seeing how different yarn choices, colorways, and size variations bring this pattern to life is endlessly inspiring. Tag your project and connect with other makers who are working through the same stitches.
Final Tips for Success
Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round while you’re still getting comfortable with the mesh pattern. It’s easy to lose your count in an openwork design when the ch-1 spaces all look similar, and a marker at the round start saves you from having to re-count.
Don’t skip the gauge swatch. I know it’s tempting, especially when you’re excited to jump into the actual project, but a crochet tank top that’s four inches too small is far more frustrating than spending twenty minutes on a swatch.
Check your stitch count every few rounds during the body and every row during the panel sections. Mesh patterns can swallow a missed stitch quietly, and catching an error early means you’ll only have to frog a row or two rather than a significant portion of your work.
Most importantly, enjoy the process. This is one of those projects where the rhythm becomes genuinely meditative — the simple mesh repeat, the yarn sliding through your fingers, the fabric growing row by row into something you’ll actually wear. That combination of craft, creativity, and wearable result is exactly what makes crochet garment making so rewarding.
