Crochet Maxi Skirt Pattern | Flared Lace Diamond
There is something endlessly romantic about a crochet maxi skirt. The way the fabric moves, the open lacework catching the light, the gentle flare at the hem that swishes with every step — it feels like wearable art. This Flared Lace Diamond Crochet Maxi Skirt pattern is one of those projects that looks far more complicated than it actually is. Once you understand the diamond lace repeat, the stitch pattern flows rhythmically from round to round, and you may find yourself completely unable to put it down.
Whether you are a confident beginner ready to push into intermediate territory or an experienced crocheter looking for a satisfying wardrobe project, this pattern is designed to grow with you. It works from the waistband downward, flaring naturally as you increase, so you can try it on as you go and adjust the length to suit your taste. The result is a flowing, bohemian skirt that you can dress up with sandals and a linen blouse or layer over a swimsuit at the beach.
Let us get into everything you need to know — materials, sizing, stitch guide, pattern notes, and the full step-by-step instructions.
Materials and Tools
Before you cast on (or rather, chain up), gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start makes the process smoother and more enjoyable.
Yarn: You will need approximately 800–1,400 yards of a DK or light worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. A yarn with good drape is essential for this skirt — look for cotton, cotton-linen blends, bamboo, or viscose-blend yarns. These fibers hang beautifully and have the breathability you want in a wearable garment. Stiff or springy wools will not give you the flowy silhouette this pattern is designed for. Some lovely options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK, or any quality cotton-blend DK.
Hook: A 4.0 mm (G/6) or 4.5 mm (7) crochet hook works well for most DK yarns at the gauge required. Always swatch to confirm your gauge before beginning.
Notions: You will need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers (at least four), scissors, a measuring tape, and an elastic waistband (about 1 inch wide and cut to your waist measurement plus one inch for overlap). Optionally, you can use a length of ribbon or a drawstring cord through the waistband casing instead of elastic.
Gauge: 18 stitches and 10 rows in half double crochet = 4 inches (10 cm). The lace pattern is more open, so gauge in the body of the skirt is approximately one diamond repeat (12 stitches) = 2.5 inches. Gauge is important here because it affects the fit at the waistband. Swatch honestly and adjust your hook size if needed.
Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL. The skirt is worked in the round from the waist down, so you will choose your starting chain based on your waist measurement and work outward from there.
Waist measurements and starting chains:
XS (24–26 inches): chain 108
S (27–29 inches): chain 120
M (30–33 inches): chain 132
L (34–37 inches): chain 144
XL (38–42 inches): chain 156
2XL (43–47 inches): chain 168
3XL (48–52 inches): chain 180
All starting chains are multiples of 12 plus 6 for the waistband setup. The length of the finished skirt is worked to your preference — instructions are given for a standard 36-inch maxi length, but you can stop at any point for a midi or tea length, or keep going for an extra-long sweep.
Abbreviations
Throughout this pattern the following abbreviations are used:
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
sk — skip
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
rm — remove marker
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
blo — back loop only
Special Stitches
Shell Stitch: Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space.
V-Stitch: Work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the same stitch or space.
Diamond Lace Repeat: The signature stitch pattern of this skirt, worked over a 12-stitch repeat. Instructions are given in full detail in the body of the pattern below.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st into the first ch. Used in the finishing border only.
Pattern Notes
Working in the round is the key to this pattern’s construction. You will join each round with a slip stitch and turn your work to keep the right side consistently facing out on the finished garment. Do not skip the turning step — it prevents a visible bias twist that can appear in tall crocheted rounds.
The waistband is worked flat in rows first (so it can fold over and encase the elastic), then seamed and joined to begin working in the round for the skirt body.
Increases for the flare are built into the diamond lace pattern itself. As you progress through the increase sections, each pattern repeat gets slightly wider, naturally creating the A-line silhouette. You are not adding random increase stitches — the increases are structural and part of the lace design, so the pattern will tell you exactly where each one falls.
Read through the entire pattern before beginning. Pay special attention to the increase rounds, which are clearly labeled.
The Pattern
Waistband
The waistband is a simple, firm ribbed band that will hold the elastic and sit neatly at your natural waist. Because the skirt body is lacework, you want the waistband to be solid and supportive.
Chain 16.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (15 sc) Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in blo across. (15 sc) Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your waistband measures approximately 1 inch shorter than your actual waist measurement. The ribbing stretches, so working it slightly shorter ensures a snug, secure fit.
Seam the short ends together with a sl st seam or whip stitch to form a loop. Set aside and do not fasten off. You will pick this up again after the first few rounds of the skirt body to join them.
Alternatively, many crocheters prefer to set the waistband aside completely, work the full skirt starting from the top chain, and then pick up stitches around the top edge to work the waistband separately. Both methods are equally effective.
Top Edge Setup Round
With RS facing, join yarn to the top of the waistband seam. Ch 1.
Sc evenly around the top edge of the waistband, placing one sc into each row end. You should have the same number of stitches as your starting chain number for your size. Join with sl st to first sc.
Turn.
Transition Round
Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout).
Work dc in each sc around, placing your increases evenly if needed to reach your starting chain number exactly. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.
Turn.
Setting Up the Diamond Lace
The diamond lace pattern requires a multiple of 12 stitches, which your starting chain already provides. The setup round organizes the stitches into the correct spacing for the first lace round.
Setup Round: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). Sk 2 sts. Dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts. Rep from around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-5.
Turn.
You now have a ring of evenly spaced dc posts separated by ch-2 spaces, which form the scaffolding for your diamond pattern.
Diamond Lace Pattern — Rounds 1 through 6 (First Repeat, No Increase)
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Sc in ch-2 sp, ch 5, sk next ch-2 sp. Rep around. Sc in last ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in first sc to form last space. Turn.
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc over the dc just made. Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp. Rep around. Ch 5, sl st to first sc. Turn.
Round 3: Sl st into center of ch-5 sp. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in same sp. Ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, 5 dc in next sp (shell made). Rep around, ending ch 2, sc in last sp, ch 2, 2 dc into first sp (completing first shell with the 3 dc at start). Sl st to top of ch-3. Turn.
Round 4: Ch 5. Sk 2 dc. Dc in center dc of shell. Ch 2. Sk 2 dc. Dc in sc, ch 2, dc in center dc of next shell, ch 2. Rep around. Join sl st to 3rd ch of ch-5. Turn.
Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in ch-2 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5. Rep around. Join. Turn.
Round 6: Repeat Round 2.
You have now completed one full diamond lace repeat. Each pair of rounds builds one half of the diamond, and the shells mark the widest point. Continue in this six-round repeat for the body of the skirt, working the increase version every third repeat.
Diamond Lace Pattern with Increases — Increase Repeat
Work Rounds 1–6 as above with the following modifications:
Modified Round 3 (Increase Round): Sl st into center of ch-5 sp. Ch 3. Work 2 dc in same sp. Ch 3, sc in next sp, ch 3, 5 dc in next sp. Rep around. The change from ch 2 to ch 3 between the shell and the sc is what creates your flare. This adds width without disrupting the lace pattern.
Modified Round 4: Ch 6 (instead of ch 5). Sk 2 dc. Dc in center dc. Ch 3 (instead of ch 2). Dc in sc, ch 3, dc in center dc of shell, ch 3. Rep around. Join.
Modified Round 5 and 6: Work as written, but treat the ch-3 spaces as your new ch-5 spaces by working ch 6 loops instead of ch 5 loops in Round 5.
Each increase repeat adds approximately one inch of circumference across the full skirt, creating the gentle A-line flare. Work the increase repeat every 18 rounds (every three full diamond repeats) until the skirt reaches your desired circumference at the hem, then continue with the standard repeat until the skirt reaches your desired length.
Continuing the Skirt Body
Continue working the six-round diamond lace repeat, incorporating the increase repeat every third time through, until the skirt measures your desired finished length minus 2 inches (to account for the border). For a standard 36-inch maxi skirt, this will take approximately 12 full pattern repeats. Try the skirt on regularly to check the length and the flare — this is one of the great joys of working top-down.
Hem Border
The hem border adds a delicate, finished edge that completes the lace aesthetic without weighing down the hem.
Border Round 1: Join yarn to any sp at the last round of the skirt body. Ch 1. Work sc evenly around, placing one sc in each sp and one sc in each dc. Join with sl st. Turn.
Border Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in sc, ch 3, sk 2 sc. Rep around. Join. Turn.
Border Round 3: Sl st into ch-3 sp. Ch 1. (Sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 sp. Rep around. This forms a small shell-and-picot border that echoes the diamond lace above it.
Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing
Weave in all ends with your tapestry needle, taking care to secure the ends in the waistband especially, as this area sees the most stress during wear.
If you have not already done so, thread your elastic through the waistband casing. Overlap the elastic ends by about one inch and sew them securely together with a needle and thread. Close the casing opening with a few whip stitches.
Block the skirt by hand-washing it gently, pressing out excess water in a towel, and laying it flat or hanging it on a skirt hanger to dry. Blocking opens up the lace dramatically and evens out any irregularities in tension. Cotton and bamboo yarns respond beautifully to wet blocking and the difference before and after is remarkable.
Sizing Adjustments and Customization
One of the best things about this pattern is how easy it is to customize. If you prefer a more dramatic flare, work the increase repeat every two repeats instead of three. If you want a straighter silhouette closer to a column skirt, skip the increase rounds entirely — the pattern still works beautifully as a straight skirt, and you can stop adding increases once you reach the hip measurement you want.
For petite crocheters, you may want to work with a slightly smaller hook to bring down the row height and shorten the overall length more gradually. For tall crocheters, adding extra rounds between increase sections helps lengthen the skirt smoothly.
You can also change the yarn weight. Working this pattern in a fingering or laceweight yarn on a 2.5–3.0 mm hook will produce an incredibly delicate, sheer skirt that layers over a slip. Working it in a lighter DK with a 5.0 mm hook produces a more relaxed, summery piece with larger lace holes. Experiment and swatch to find the version that speaks to you.
Styling Your Crochet Maxi Skirt
This skirt is a true wardrobe builder. Pair it with a simple white linen tank or crop top for a beachy, effortless look. Layer it over a fitted bodysuit and add chunky sandals for festival season. Wear it with a tucked-in blouse and wedge heels for garden parties and summer brunches. In cooler weather, try it over a fitted turtleneck and ankle boots for an unexpected bohemian-meets-autumn moment.
The skirt works best in neutral and earthy tones — cream, ivory, sage, terracotta, warm taupe — that let the lace pattern be the focal point. That said, a deep jewel tone like cobalt or dusty rose makes a stunning statement piece that will turn heads every time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make this skirt without joining in the round? Technically yes, but it requires modifying all the rounds to rows and adding seam allowances. The circular construction is what gives the skirt its seamless, fluid drape, so it is highly recommended to stick with the in-the-round method.
What if my gauge is off? If your gauge produces too many stitches per inch, go up a hook size. Too few, go down. Small adjustments in hook size have a significant impact on both the drape of the fabric and the fit of the waistband.
Can I use acrylic yarn? You can, though the skirt will not drape as beautifully as it does in cotton or a plant-based fiber. If you do choose acrylic, look for one labeled as having good drape, such as a microfiber or viscose-blend acrylic. Avoid stiff, bouncy yarns.
How do I care for the finished skirt? Always follow the care instructions on your yarn label. Most cotton and cotton-blend yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry to preserve the shape of the lace.
There you have it — everything you need to crochet your own Flared Lace Diamond Maxi Skirt from the waistband to the hem. Take your time with it, enjoy the meditative rhythm of the lace repeats, and do not hesitate to put it on and twirl every few rounds just to watch it move. That, honestly, is half the joy of making something this beautiful with your own hands.
