How to Crochet Shorts: A Complete Step-by-Step Tutorial for Beginners and Beyond

If you’ve been scrolling through social media lately, you’ve probably noticed that crochet shorts are absolutely everywhere. From boho beach cover-ups to festival fashion and casual summer outfits, handmade crochet shorts have become one of the most sought-after DIY crochet projects of the season. The best part? Making your own pair is more achievable than you might think. Whether you’re a confident beginner or an intermediate crocheter looking for a fun new project, this tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to create your very own crochet shorts from start to finish.

In this guide, you’ll find a full materials list, gauge information, sizing tips, stitch breakdowns, and detailed row-by-row instructions. By the end, you’ll have a beautiful, wearable pair of shorts that fits your body, reflects your personal style, and costs a fraction of what you’d pay in a boutique.

Why Make Your Own Crochet Shorts?

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s talk about the why. Handmade clothing has a magic to it that store-bought pieces simply can’t replicate. When you crochet your own shorts, you get complete control over the sizing, which is a game-changer if you’ve ever struggled to find bottoms that fit your waist and hips simultaneously. You also get to choose your yarn color, texture, and weight, meaning your finished piece will be uniquely yours.

Crochet shorts are also surprisingly versatile. Worn over a swimsuit, they make a chic beach cover-up. Paired with a crop top or flowy blouse, they become a statement summer outfit. Made in a thicker yarn, they can even transition into a cozy loungewear piece for cooler evenings. Once you understand the basic construction, you can customize endlessly.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials together before you start crocheting will save you a lot of frustration later. Here’s what you’ll need for a standard pair of women’s crochet shorts in a medium (size S/M) with adjustable sizing instructions:

Yarn: Approximately 300–500 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4), depending on your size. Cotton yarn works beautifully for this project because it’s breathable, holds its shape, and drapes nicely. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, and We Are Knitters The Cotton are all popular choices. If you want a more open, lacy look, you can go down to a DK weight yarn and use a slightly larger hook.

Crochet Hook: A 5.0 mm (H/8) hook is standard for worsted weight cotton. Check the yarn label for the recommended hook size and adjust based on your gauge swatch.

Yarn Needle: For weaving in ends and seaming.

Stitch Markers: At least 4–6 to mark key points in your work.

Measuring Tape: Essential for checking your gauge and taking body measurements.

Elastic: A length of 1-inch wide elastic cut to fit your waist comfortably. You’ll thread this through the waistband at the end.

Scissors

Optional: A piece of cardboard or a small ruler for measuring gauge swatches consistently.

Understanding Gauge

Gauge is one of those things newer crocheters are tempted to skip, but with a wearable garment like shorts, it really does matter. Gauge determines whether your finished shorts will actually fit the body they’re meant for. A difference of even half a stitch per inch can translate into several inches of difference in the final dimensions.

For this pattern, the target gauge is 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet using a 5.0 mm hook and worsted weight cotton yarn.

To check your gauge, crochet a swatch of at least 6 x 6 inches, then lay it flat and measure a 4-inch square in the center (avoiding the edges, which tend to pull slightly). Count the stitches and rows within that 4-inch space. If you have more stitches than the pattern calls for, go up a hook size. If you have fewer stitches, go down a hook size. Re-swatch until your gauge matches.

Taking Your Measurements

Because these shorts are worked in the round from the waistband down, you’ll need a few key measurements before you begin:

Waist circumference: Measure around the narrowest part of your natural waist, where you want the top of your shorts to sit.

Hip circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your hips, typically about 8–10 inches below your natural waist.

Rise: The distance from your natural waist down to the crotch point (where you want the shorts to split into two legs). For low-rise shorts, this might be 8–9 inches. For a mid-rise, aim for 10–12 inches.

Inseam: How long you want the leg portion to be. Most crochet shorts have a 3–6 inch inseam, but you can make yours as long or short as you like.

Write these measurements down and keep them nearby as you work. You’ll refer back to them throughout the pattern.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only

Pattern Instructions

Part 1: The Waistband

The waistband is worked flat (back and forth in rows) and then joined into a tube. This creates a clean, structured casing for your elastic.

Foundation Chain: Chain a number of stitches equal to your waist measurement divided by your stitch gauge, plus 1 for the turning chain. For a 30-inch waist with a gauge of 3.5 stitches per inch, that’s approximately 105 stitches plus 1 = chain 106.

Row 1 (WS): Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc across. (105 sts)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, turn. Working in BLO, hdc across.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Working in BLO, hdc across.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Hdc across through both loops.

Repeat rows 2–4 until the waistband measures 2.5 inches wide. The ridged texture created by working in BLO adds both structure and visual interest.

Join the waistband into a tube by slip stitching the last row to the foundation chain, making sure the piece isn’t twisted. You now have a waistband ring.

Part 2: The Body (Worked in the Round)

Now that your waistband is joined, you’ll work downward in continuous rounds to create the body of the shorts. The body is worked in half double crochet in the round.

Setup Round: With the RS of the waistband facing you, join yarn at any point along the bottom edge of the waistband. Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc evenly around the bottom edge of the waistband. Join with sl st to the first hdc. Place a stitch marker here to mark the beginning of the round.

You should have a stitch count matching your waist circumference in stitches. If your hip measurement is larger than your waist measurement (which it is for most people), you’ll need to increase gradually over the next several rounds.

Increase Rounds: To go from your waist circumference to your hip circumference, divide the difference by the number of rounds you have before you reach the hips. For example, if you need to add 16 stitches and you have 8 rounds before reaching the hip, you’ll increase 2 stitches per round (one increase every half round, or one on each side of the body).

Increase Round: Hdc around, placing 2 hdc in one stitch at even intervals to increase your total stitch count by the necessary amount. Repeat increase rounds as needed, working plain hdc rounds in between to keep the increases gradual and even.

Continue working in rounds of hdc until the body measures your desired rise length from the top of the waistband. At this point, you’re ready to divide for the legs.

Part 3: Dividing for the Legs

This is the moment the shorts really start to take shape. You’ll divide your total stitch count in half, work the front and back separately, then join them for the inner leg.

Marking the Division: With your work still in the round, count your total stitches and divide by 2. Place stitch markers at the halfway points on opposite sides of the round. These mark the left and right sides of the body.

Creating the Crotch Gusset: To add ease and comfort in the crotch area, you’ll add a small number of chain stitches at the division point. This prevents the shorts from feeling too tight between the legs.

At the front marker, ch 5–8 (depending on how much ease you want; more chains = more room). Skip across to the back marker and join with a sl st. You now have two openings, one for each leg.

Working the Legs (Worked in the Round):

For the first leg: Join yarn at one leg opening. Work hdc in the round around the leg opening, picking up stitches from both the body stitches and the chain gusset. Join with sl st at the end of each round.

Continue working in rounds of hdc for your desired inseam length, decreasing slightly if you want the legs to taper. For a straight-leg finish, work even with no decreases.

Repeat for the second leg.

Part 4: The Leg Hems

A finished hem gives your shorts a polished, professional look and prevents the edges from curling or stretching out of shape.

For a simple hem, work 1–2 rounds of single crochet around the bottom of each leg, then finish with a round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch). This creates a firm, decorative border.

For a lacier finish, work a shell stitch border: sl st, ch 3, work 4 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, sl st, rep around. This adds beautiful texture and a slightly ruffled edge.

Part 5: Inserting the Elastic

Thread your cut length of elastic through the waistband tunnel using a large safety pin attached to one end of the elastic. Work the safety pin and elastic all the way around the inside of the waistband until both ends meet. Overlap the ends by about an inch and sew them together securely with a needle and thread, or use a sewing machine if you have one. The elastic will gather the waistband slightly, creating a comfortable, fitted top edge.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own crochet shorts is how infinitely customizable they are.

Color: Work stripes by changing yarn colors at the beginning of a new round. You can do bold color blocking, gradient effects using hand-dyed yarn, or subtle tonal variations with a single skein of variegated yarn.

Stitch Patterns: Once you’re comfortable with the basic construction, try swapping out the plain hdc body for a textured stitch. The waffle stitch, the v-stitch, or alternating rows of front post and back post stitches all create beautiful results in shorts.

Length: Extend the body and leg sections to make Bermuda-style shorts or even wide-leg crochet pants using the same basic pattern structure. Shorten the legs to make a cheeky bikini bottom-style cover-up.

Details: Add crochet flowers, fringe along the hem, or a belt loop section at the waist for a crochet tie. You can also add small pockets by crocheting a small rectangle and slip stitching it onto the front or back of the body.

Lining: For a more wearable, less see-through pair of shorts, consider sewing in a lining using a lightweight stretch fabric like jersey or spandex. This is especially useful if you’re making a shorts with an open lace pattern.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

My shorts are twisting when I seam them. This usually happens when joining the body rounds at an angle. Make sure you’re marking your round beginning clearly and joining at the same point each round.

The crotch area feels too tight. Add more chain stitches in the gusset section, or go up a hook size for just the crotch gusset area. You can also add a small additional rectangle of crochet stitched into the crotch as an insert.

My shorts are coming out too big/small. This is almost always a gauge issue. It’s worth going back and re-checking your swatch. Also double-check that you’re measuring your body correctly and using those measurements consistently throughout the pattern.

The waistband keeps rolling or folding. Working through the back loop only (BLO) as described for the waistband helps prevent this. You can also work an extra round of slip stitches or single crochet along the top edge to stabilize it.

Caring for Your Crochet Shorts

Cotton yarn is generally machine washable, but always check your specific yarn’s label for care instructions. Wash your finished shorts in cold water on a gentle cycle and lay them flat to dry to preserve their shape. Avoid putting crochet garments in the dryer, as the heat can cause cotton to shrink and distort the stitches.

Store your shorts flat or loosely folded rather than hung, since hanging a heavy crochet garment can stretch it out over time.

Final Thoughts

Making your own crochet shorts is one of the most rewarding summer crochet projects you can take on. Yes, there’s some math involved, and yes, you really should do that gauge swatch, but the process is genuinely enjoyable and the result — a perfectly fitted, completely unique pair of shorts made with your own two hands — is absolutely worth the effort.

If you’re newer to garment construction, don’t be intimidated. Break the project into small sessions: one day for the waistband, a couple of sessions on the body, an afternoon for the legs, and a quick finishing session for the hems and elastic. Before you know it, you’ll have a wearable, beautiful piece that you’ll want to replicate in every color of the rainbow.

Share your finished pairs on social media and tag your posts so other crocheters can find inspiration in your work. The crochet community thrives on sharing, encouraging, and celebrating each other’s projects — and a finished pair of handmade crochet shorts is absolutely something worth showing off.

Happy crocheting!