Crochet Tennis Skirt Free Pattern: A Complete Guide to Making Your Own Stylish Court-Ready Look

If you’ve been scrolling through social media lately, you’ve probably noticed that crochet tennis skirts are absolutely everywhere. They’re the perfect marriage of sporty and boho, the kind of piece that looks just as good at a rooftop brunch as it does on the court. The best part? You can make one yourself, and it doesn’t have to cost you a thing. This free crochet tennis skirt pattern walks you through every step, from choosing your yarn to finishing your last row, so you end up with something you’re genuinely proud to wear.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a fun wearable project or an intermediate hooker ready to level up, this pattern is designed to be approachable without being boring. You’ll get a flirty, stretchy, layered skirt with that classic pleated tennis skirt silhouette, interpreted through open lace stitches and comfortable cotton yarn.

Why Crochet a Tennis Skirt?

Before we dive into the pattern, let’s talk about why this project is worth your time. Store-bought crochet tennis skirts — the kind you see from boutique brands — can run anywhere from $60 to $150. Making your own costs a fraction of that, and you get complete control over length, color, and fit. You can make it mini, mid-thigh, or even a little longer depending on your style.

Crochet also gives you a fabric with natural stretch, which makes it comfortable to move in. When you use the right stitch pattern, it drapes beautifully and doesn’t cling the way a heavy knit might. With an elastic waistband worked directly into the top of the skirt, you get a clean finish that sits comfortably at your natural waist or hip, wherever you prefer to wear it.

There’s also something deeply satisfying about wearing something handmade. Every time someone asks where you got your skirt, you get to say, “I made it.”

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials right before you start saves a lot of frustration later. Here’s what this pattern calls for.

Yarn: 3 to 5 skeins of a worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn, depending on your size and preferred skirt length. Cotton is highly recommended for this project because it has little to no stretch on its own, which means the skirt will hold its shape instead of growing over time the way an acrylic might. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton and Paintbox Simply DK Cotton are both excellent choices. If you want a more luxurious feel, a cotton-linen blend like Lion Brand Coboo works beautifully. Choose a color that makes you happy — bright white, dusty rose, sage green, or classic black all look stunning.

Hook: A 5mm (H/8) crochet hook for the body of the skirt. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up to a 5.5mm. If you’re a loose crocheter, try a 4.5mm and do a gauge swatch first.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a measuring tape, stitch markers (at least 4), and approximately one yard of 1-inch wide elastic for the waistband. You’ll also want a safety pin or a bobby pin to thread the elastic through the casing.

Optional: A small amount of coordinating ribbon or trim if you want to add a decorative element to the waistband.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written to fit sizes XS through XL, with notes for adjusting at each step. The sizing is based on hip measurements, since the waistband uses elastic and can be adjusted to fit any waist size.

XS fits hip measurements of 32–34 inches. S fits 35–37 inches. M fits 38–40 inches. L fits 41–43 inches. XL fits 44–46 inches.

The finished skirt length as written is approximately 14 inches, which creates a classic mini tennis skirt silhouette. You can easily add or subtract length by working more or fewer rounds at the end.

Gauge

Gauge matters more for garments than it does for most crochet projects, so please take the ten minutes to do a swatch. In the main stitch pattern used for this skirt, your gauge should be approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows to 4 inches using a 5mm hook and worsted weight cotton.

To check your gauge, chain 18 and work 10 rows in the main stitch pattern described below. Measure a 4-inch square in the center of your swatch (not at the edges, where it can stretch or pucker). If your swatch is too large, go down a hook size. If it’s too small, go up a hook size.

Stitch Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used.

Ch means chain. Sl st means slip stitch. Sc means single crochet. Dc means double crochet. Hdc means half double crochet. V-st means V-stitch, which is worked as dc, ch 1, dc all in the same stitch or space. Sk means skip. Rep means repeat. St or sts means stitch or stitches. Sp means space. RS means right side. WS means wrong side.

The Pattern

Foundation and Waistband Casing

The skirt is worked in the round from the top down, which means you start with the waistband and work your way down to the hem. This makes it easy to try on as you go and adjust the length to your liking.

Begin by creating your foundation chain. The number of chains you start with determines the circumference of your skirt at the hip, which is where it will sit over the elastic waistband.

For XS, chain 112. For S, chain 126. For M, chain 140. For L, chain 154. For XL, chain 168.

All chain counts are multiples of 14, which is the repeat number for this pattern. This is important if you want to adjust the sizing further — any custom starting chain should be a multiple of 14.

Join the chain with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist the chain. Place a stitch marker in the joining slip stitch so you know where your rounds begin. From here, you’ll work in joined rounds.

Rounds 1–4 (Waistband Casing): Chain 2. Work one half double crochet in each chain around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of your beginning chain-2. Do not turn. These four rounds create the elastic casing. When you’re done with the body of the skirt, you’ll come back and fold this section over to thread your elastic through.

Body of the Skirt

Now the real fun begins. From round 5 onward, you’ll be working in the main lace pattern, which creates an open, airy fabric with just enough structure to give the skirt its shape.

Round 5 (Transition Row): Chain 3 (counts as first dc). Skip the first stitch. Work one dc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to the top of beginning ch-3. You should have the same stitch count as your starting chain.

Round 6 (Begin V-Stitch Pattern): Chain 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1). Skip next stitch. Work V-st in next stitch. Skip next stitch. Work dc in next stitch. Skip next stitch. Rep (V-st in next st, skip next st, dc in next st, skip next st) around. Join with sl st to third chain of beginning ch-4.

Round 7: Sl st into first ch-1 space of previous round. Chain 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1). Work V-st in same space. Work dc in next dc. Work V-st in next ch-1 space. Rep (dc in next dc, V-st in next ch-1 sp) around. Join with sl st to third chain of beginning ch-4.

Repeat Round 7 until your skirt body measures approximately 10 inches from the top of the waistband casing, or until the skirt is about 4 inches shorter than your desired finished length.

Increase Rounds for Flare

This is the section that gives the skirt its tennis skirt silhouette — a slight flare at the hem that mimics the pleated look of a traditional tennis skirt.

Increase Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as dc). Work 2 dc in same space. Work dc in each st and ch-1 space across to the next V-st space. Rep (3 dc in V-st space, dc in each st and space to next V-st) around. Join. You will have increased by one stitch per V-stitch repeat.

Increase Round 2: Chain 4. V-st in next st. Skip next st. Dc in next st. Rep pattern as established, treating the new stitches as part of the pattern. Join.

Repeat the V-stitch round (as in Round 7) twice more.

Increase Round 3: Repeat Increase Round 1.

Work two more plain V-stitch rounds.

Hem

The hem is worked in single crochet and reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) to create a tidy, stable edge that won’t curl or stretch out over time.

Hem Round 1: Chain 1. Work one sc in each stitch and space around. Join.

Hem Round 2: Do not chain or turn. Working from left to right (backwards from the usual direction), work one reverse sc in each stitch around. This creates a rope-like edging that holds the hem beautifully. Join and fasten off.

Weave in your ends securely.

Finishing the Waistband

Now it’s time to add the elastic. Cut your 1-inch elastic to your actual waist measurement (not the size chart number — measure yourself and use that number, then subtract about half an inch to account for stretch and give the skirt a snug hold).

Fold the waistband casing (Rounds 1–4) down toward the wrong side of the skirt. Using a yarn needle and the same yarn, whipstitch the bottom edge of the casing to the wrong side of Round 5, leaving a 2-inch gap to thread the elastic through.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the casing, being careful not to twist it. Overlap the two ends of the elastic by about one inch and sew them together securely with a needle and thread or a sewing machine. Tuck the joined elastic back into the casing and close the gap with a few whipstitches.

Give the waistband a gentle tug all the way around to even out the gathers, and you’re done.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

Working in cotton yarn for the first time can feel a little stiff compared to acrylic, but the stiffness actually works in your favor here because it gives the skirt body and prevents it from drooping over time. Wash and dry your finished skirt before wearing it — cotton often softens beautifully after the first wash.

If you find the skirt is coming out too short as you work, simply add more rounds before you begin the increase section. Each round adds roughly three-quarters of an inch to the length.

For a thicker, more structured look, you can hold two strands of lightweight yarn together and use a 6mm hook. This creates a chunkier fabric with more opacity, which some people prefer for a skirt they plan to wear as outerwear rather than over a swimsuit or athletic shorts.

If you want to add a decorative touch, try working the hem in a contrasting color. A white body with a black hem edge looks incredibly chic, and it’s as simple as joining your new color at the beginning of the hem round.

How to Style Your Crochet Tennis Skirt

One of the best things about this skirt is how versatile it is. On the court or at the park, pair it with a fitted sports bra, tennis shoes, and a visor for the full athletic aesthetic that’s so popular right now. The open lace stitch means you’ll want to wear bike shorts or fitted shorts underneath, both for comfort and coverage.

For a more dressed-up look, wear it over a slip skirt or a lace midi skirt peeking out below the hem for that layered, festival-inspired vibe. A cropped linen button-down tucked into the waistband and some strappy sandals turn this into a full outfit.

At the beach or pool, this skirt makes a stunning cover-up worn over a bikini. The lace stitches let the color of your swimsuit show through in the most beautiful way, especially if you go with a natural or neutral yarn color.

Caring for Your Finished Skirt

Because this skirt is made from cotton, care is relatively simple. Machine wash on a gentle or delicate cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry to maintain the shape and prevent the waistband elastic from warping. Avoid putting it in the dryer, as high heat can degrade both the cotton fibers and the elastic over time. With proper care, this skirt will last for seasons.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this pattern with a lighter weight yarn? Yes. Using a DK weight yarn and a 4mm hook will give you a finer, more delicate fabric. You’ll need to start with more chains to hit the same circumference, so recalculate your gauge and adjust accordingly.

I don’t know how to crochet in the round. Is this pattern still doable? Absolutely. Crocheting in the round is actually simpler than working flat rows because you never have to turn your work. There are dozens of beginner tutorials available that cover joining rounds and using stitch markers, and once you get the hang of it, working in the round is addictive.

Can I sell items made from this pattern? You’re welcome to make and sell finished items using this free pattern. Please credit the pattern if you share it online.

What if I’m between sizes? Go up a size and adjust the elastic to fit your waist snugly. Because the waistband is entirely controlled by the elastic, sizing up is almost always the better choice for this style of skirt.

Final Thoughts

A crochet tennis skirt is one of those projects that looks impressive, wears beautifully, and genuinely isn’t as hard as it appears. Once you finish your first one, you’ll probably want to make another in every color. The lace stitch pattern works up quickly, the top-down construction makes sizing a breeze, and the finished result is something you can wear with confidence all spring and summer long.

Grab your hook, pick a color that makes you smile, and get started. You’ve got everything you need right here.