Knitted Striped Cardigan Tutorial: How to Knit a Classic Striped Cardigan (With Free Pattern)
Few things feel as rewarding as slipping on a handmade cardigan for the first time. The weight of it, the texture of the yarn, the satisfaction of knowing every single stitch was placed by your own hands — there is something almost magical about it. A striped cardigan takes that satisfaction a step further, because the stripe sequence itself becomes a design choice, a fingerprint that makes the finished piece entirely yours. Whether you want bold color-blocked panels or subtle tonal stripes that whisper against each other, the technique is the same. And once you learn it, you will find yourself reaching for two (or five) balls of yarn every time you sit down to knit.
This tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to knit a striped cardigan from start to finish. We will cover the materials, the gauge, the pattern, construction tips, and the finishing details that separate a polished handmade garment from something that looks unfinished. By the end of this post you will have a complete free pattern you can follow at home, plus enough background knowledge to customize it however you like.
Who This Pattern Is For
This striped cardigan pattern is written for knitters with some experience. If you have already completed a few flat projects — scarves, dishcloths, a simple hat or two — and you understand how to read a basic pattern, increase, decrease, and seam pieces together, you are ready for this. The construction is straightforward: the back and two front panels are knitted flat, then seamed at the shoulders and sides. Sleeves are worked separately and sewn in. No short rows, no complicated shaping, no circular needles required (though you will need a short circular or a set of double-pointed needles for the button band at the end, which we will cover in detail).
Advanced knitters will also find this pattern useful because the stripe pattern and construction method are a solid base for modifications. You can easily swap the yarn weight, adjust the repeat, add pockets, or alter the neckline.
Materials You Will Need
Before you cast on a single stitch, gather everything listed below. Having your materials in order before you start will save you frustration mid-project.
Yarn: Approximately 800–1,000 yards of worsted weight yarn in Color A (main color) and 400–500 yards in Color B (contrast color). The exact yardage will vary depending on your size. This pattern is written for a finished chest measurement of 38–40 inches with positive ease, which gives a relaxed, comfortable fit. If you want a smaller or larger size, adjust accordingly. For this tutorial, a smooth wool or wool-blend yarn is strongly recommended because it is easy to work with, shows the stripe definition beautifully, and blocks well for a polished finish. Acrylic is a perfectly fine substitute if you prefer machine-washable.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight needles for the body and sleeves. A 16-inch US size 6 (4.0mm) circular needle for the button bands and collar. If you do not have a circular needle, a very long straight needle with a cable works fine.
Notions: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends, 6 to 8 buttons (roughly 3/4 inch in diameter works well), stitch holders or scrap yarn, a row counter (optional but helpful), and a tape measure.
Gauge
Gauge matters enormously for a garment. A stitch that is just slightly off can translate into several extra inches across a chest measurement, which will change the fit completely. Before you begin the pattern, knit a gauge swatch.
Cast on 24 stitches and work in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) for at least 4 inches. Bind off, wet block your swatch by soaking it in cool water for 20 minutes, squeezing out the water gently, then laying it flat to dry. Once dry, measure over 4 inches in the center of the swatch.
Target gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US size 7 needles.
If you have more stitches than that over 4 inches, go up a needle size. If you have fewer stitches, go down a needle size. Do not skip this step, even if you have knitted with this yarn before. Different projects and different moods literally change your tension.
Understanding the Stripe Pattern
The beauty of a striped cardigan is that the pattern repeat is simple. You will be working a classic two-color stripe sequence. For this pattern, the default stripe repeat is as follows:
Work 6 rows in Color A, then 6 rows in Color B. Repeat this sequence throughout the entire body and sleeves. This creates a balanced, classic stripe that looks polished and intentional. The stripes are wide enough to be clearly visible but narrow enough that carrying the yarn up the side edge (rather than cutting it every time) remains practical without creating long unsightly floats.
To carry yarn up the side: when you begin a new stripe and the yarn you need is waiting at the opposite end of your work, twist it around the yarn currently in use before you knit the first stitch of the new stripe. This anchors it neatly along the selvedge edge and will be hidden inside the seam. Always carry the yarn on the wrong side of your work.
The Pattern
Abbreviations
CO = cast on, BO = bind off, k = knit, p = purl, k2tog = knit two together (a right-leaning decrease), ssk = slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease), RS = right side, WS = wrong side, st(s) = stitch(es), rep = repeat, pm = place marker, sm = slip marker.
Back Panel
Using US size 7 needles and Color A, CO 100 sts.
Ribbing: Work k2, p2 rib for 2 inches (approximately 14 rows), ending with a WS row. The ribbing creates a neat, elastic hem that keeps the bottom of the cardigan from flaring out.
Begin stripe pattern: Starting with Color A, begin the 6-row stripe repeat described above. Work in stockinette stitch (k on RS, p on WS) until the piece measures 14 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. This is your body length before the armhole shaping begins. Adjust this number if you prefer a shorter or longer body — just remember to adjust the sleeve length accordingly.
Armhole shaping:
Row 1 (RS): BO 5 sts at the beginning of the row, k to end.
Row 2 (WS): BO 5 sts at the beginning of the row, p to end. (90 sts remain)
Row 3 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 4 (WS): p across.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 four more times. (80 sts remain)
Continue even in stripe pattern until armhole measures 8.5 inches from the first bind-off, ending with a WS row.
Shoulder shaping:
BO 9 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
BO 8 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Place remaining 26 sts on a holder for the back neck.
Left Front Panel
Using US size 7 needles and Color A, CO 48 sts.
Ribbing: Work k2, p2 rib for 2 inches, ending with a WS row.
Begin stripe pattern: Work in stockinette stitch in the established stripe sequence until the piece measures 14 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
Armhole shaping (worked at left side edge):
Row 1 (RS): BO 5 sts, k to end. (43 sts)
Row 2 (WS): p across.
Row 3 (RS): k1, ssk, k to end.
Row 4 (WS): p across.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 four more times. (38 sts)
Continue even until armhole measures 5 inches from the first bind-off, ending with a RS row.
Neck shaping:
Row 1 (WS): BO 8 sts at the beginning of the row (neck edge), p to end. (30 sts)
Row 2 (RS): k across.
Row 3 (WS): p2tog, p to end.
Row 4 (RS): k across.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 four more times. (25 sts)
Continue even until armhole matches back armhole depth, ending with a WS row.
Shoulder shaping:
Row 1 (RS): BO 9 sts, k to end.
Row 2 (WS): p across.
Row 3 (RS): BO 9 sts, k to end.
Row 4 (WS): p across.
BO remaining 7 sts.
Right Front Panel
Work to match the Left Front Panel, reversing all shaping. This means the armhole shaping is worked at the beginning of WS rows, and the neck shaping is worked at the beginning of RS rows.
Armhole shaping:
Row 1 (WS): BO 5 sts, p to end. (43 sts)
Row 2 (RS): k across.
Row 3 (WS): p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Row 4 (RS): k across.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 four more times. (38 sts)
Neck shaping:
Row 1 (RS): BO 8 sts, k to end. (30 sts)
Row 2 (WS): p across.
Row 3 (RS): k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 4 (WS): p across.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 four more times. (25 sts)
Continue to shoulder and work shoulder shaping mirroring the Left Front.
Sleeves (Make Two)
Using US size 7 needles and Color A, CO 44 sts.
Ribbing: Work k2, p2 rib for 2.5 inches.
Begin stripe pattern and sleeve shaping:
Work in stockinette in the established stripe sequence. On the 7th row from the end of the ribbing and every 8th row thereafter, work an increase row as follows:
Increase row (RS): k1, m1L (make one left), k to last stitch, m1R (make one right), k1.
Continue increasing in this manner until you have 70 stitches total, then work even until the sleeve measures 18 inches from the cast-on edge (or your preferred sleeve length), ending with a WS row.
Sleeve cap shaping:
Row 1 (RS): BO 5 sts, k to end.
Row 2 (WS): BO 5 sts, p to end. (60 sts)
Row 3 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 4 (WS): p across.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 20 sts remain.
BO all sts.
Seaming and Assembly
Once all five pieces are complete and blocked, it is time to seam. This is the step that most knitters dread but that makes an enormous difference in the finished garment. Use your tapestry needle and a length of Color A (or whichever color is dominant at the seam edge) for all seaming.
Blocking first: Pin all pieces to measurements on a blocking board or a clean towel, mist with water, and allow to dry completely before seaming. Blocking evens out your tension, opens up the stitches, and makes the pieces much easier to seam neatly.
Shoulder seams: Use the three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch to join the front shoulders to the back shoulders. If you use mattress stitch, work between the first and second stitch of each piece to create an invisible seam.
Setting in the sleeves: Pin the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam, then pin the bound-off sts of the sleeve cap to the bound-off armhole stitches. Ease the rest of the cap in evenly and pin generously before seaming. Use mattress stitch to sew the sleeve cap to the armhole.
Side and sleeve seams: Seam the sides of the body from the hem to the underarm, then seam the sleeves from the cuff to the underarm. Work in one continuous line if you prefer — pin from hem to cuff and seam all the way up.
Button Band and Collar
Using your US size 6 circular needle and Color A, pick up and knit stitches along the right front edge for the button band. As a general rule, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows. Work k1, p1 rib for 1.25 inches, then bind off loosely in pattern. Repeat on the left front edge for the buttonhole band, but on the 5th row of ribbing, work evenly spaced buttonholes: for each buttonhole, work yo, k2tog. Space your buttonholes evenly based on how many buttons you have — mark the positions with stitch markers before you begin so you can work them in the right places.
For the collar, pick up stitches around the entire neckline (front right, back neck, front left) and work k1, p1 rib for about 1.5 inches before binding off. A gentle collar like this keeps the neckline neat without overwhelming the stripe pattern.
Sew buttons to the button band opposite the buttonholes. Weave in all remaining ends securely.
Tips for a Beautiful Striped Cardigan
Keeping stripes aligned across seams is one of the trickier aspects of this project, and there are a few ways to make it easier. First, always start your stripe repeat at the same point on every piece. If the back begins with 6 rows of Color A, the fronts and sleeves should too. Second, count your rows carefully. If you are using a row counter, reset it at the beginning of every stripe. If you are not, put a small sticky note on your project bag and tick off rows as you go. Stripe misalignment is almost always a result of losing count rather than a technique error.
When it comes to color combinations, warm and cool contrasts are classic for a reason. Navy and cream, rust and olive, dusty rose and charcoal — pairs like these have been used in knitwear for decades because they photograph beautifully and wear even better. If you are unsure about your combination, wind a few yards of each color and hold them together in natural light before you commit.
Finally, do not rush the finishing. The difference between a garment that looks handmade in the best possible sense and one that looks homemade in the less flattering sense almost always comes down to blocking and seaming. Take your time with both.
Customizing This Pattern
One of the great joys of knitting your own garment is that you are never locked into the pattern as written. Here are a few ways to make this cardigan your own.
You can easily change the stripe width. A 2-row stripe repeat creates a fine, almost nautical-looking stripe. An 8 or 10-row repeat starts to feel more like color blocking. You can also introduce a third color by cycling through A, B, and C in sequence, which adds complexity without adding difficulty.
Adding pockets is surprisingly easy. After the ribbing and before the armhole shaping, work to the position where you want the pocket opening, then work a pocket lining separately on a holder, join it to the main fabric, and continue. Patch pockets sewn on after the fact are even simpler and look wonderful on a casual cardigan.
You can also make this cardigan longer or shorter. Every 4 extra rows adds roughly half an inch to the body length. Just remember that extra length means extra yarn.
Caring for Your Finished Cardigan
If you knitted this in wool, hand wash it in cool water with a gentle wool wash, press out the water without wringing, and lay it flat to dry. Never hang a knitted garment — the weight will stretch it out of shape. Store it folded. If moths are a concern in your home, cedar blocks or lavender sachets tucked in with your knitwear are a classic and effective deterrent.
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