Crochet Foldover Shorts | Easy Crochet Shorts Tutorial

If you’ve been looking for a fun summer project that’s both wearable and beginner-friendly, crochet foldover shorts might just be your new favorite make. These adorable shorts feature a stretchy, comfortable waistband that folds over to create a flattering silhouette, and they work up faster than you might expect. Whether you’re brand new to garment crochet or you’ve made a few pieces and want something a little different, this tutorial walks you through everything you need to know from start to finish.

Let’s dive in.

What Are Crochet Foldover Shorts?

Crochet foldover shorts are a style of handmade bottoms that feature a wide, folded-over waistband — similar to what you’d see on yoga pants or athletic shorts. The foldover section creates a natural casing that you can either leave as-is for a relaxed fit or thread with elastic or a drawstring for extra security. The shorts themselves tend to have a relaxed, slightly flowy fit that works beautifully for the beach, lounging at home, or layering over a swimsuit.

What makes them especially appealing is the construction. Because the waistband is worked in a continuous tube or wide band and then folded, you don’t need to stress too much about getting the waist circumference exactly right from the start. There’s built-in flexibility that forgives slight sizing differences, which is one of the reasons this project is so popular with newer crocheters.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything so you’re not hunting for supplies mid-project. Here’s what you’ll need for a standard pair of adult crochet foldover shorts.

Yarn: You want a lightweight yarn with good drape for this project. Cotton or a cotton blend in a worsted weight (size 4) works beautifully, but if you want something a little airier, a DK weight (size 3) is equally lovely and creates a more breathable fabric. Avoid bulky or super-chunky yarns here — they’ll create too much stiffness and bulk around the waist and thighs. Plan for approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size and the leg length you’re going for.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) or 5.5mm (I/9) crochet hook works well for worsted weight cotton. Always check your gauge before beginning any garment project.

Elastic: A 1.5 to 2-inch wide waistband elastic, cut to your waist measurement minus about 2 inches, works perfectly inside the foldover casing.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends.

Scissors: Any pair you have on hand.

Stitch markers: Optional but helpful for keeping track of rounds.

Measuring tape: Essential for checking sizing as you go.

Understanding Gauge

Gauge matters enormously in garment crochet, and it’s worth taking the time to make a swatch before you dive in. An off-gauge swatch means off-size shorts, and since you’re making something you actually plan to wear, a few extra minutes here will save you a lot of frustration later.

For worsted weight cotton on a 5.0mm hook, you’re aiming for approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows over a 4-inch square in half double crochet. If your swatch is too loose and your stitches are too big, drop down a hook size. If it’s too tight and you can barely move the fabric, go up a size.

Wash and dry your swatch before measuring it. Cotton in particular can shrink slightly after the first wash, and you want your finished shorts to hold their size and shape after laundering.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written for adult sizes Small through Extra Large. Here are the approximate finished measurements:

For a Small, you’re working toward a 28–30 inch hip circumference in the finished garment. For a Medium, target 32–34 inches. A Large works out to approximately 36–38 inches, and an Extra Large comes in at 40–42 inches. The inseam for all sizes in this tutorial is approximately 3–4 inches for a true short cut, but you can easily add length by working additional rows before decreasing to the leg openings.

If you fall between sizes, always size up. The stretchy nature of crochet fabric and the elastic waistband will accommodate a slightly larger size better than a too-small one.

Stitch Abbreviations

Throughout this tutorial, the following abbreviations are used:

ch — chain, sl st — slip stitch, sc — single crochet, hdc — half double crochet, dc — double crochet, st — stitch, sp — space, BLO — back loop only, FLO — front loop only, rep — repeat, pm — place marker, and rm — remove marker.

The Pattern: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Create the Waistband

The waistband is worked flat first and then joined into a tube. This gives you full control over the width and creates that signature foldover look.

Chain 30 (or approximately 8 inches wide, adjusting as needed for your preferred waistband height — since this folds in half, your finished waistband will be about 4 inches tall).

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn. (29 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each stitch across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your waistband strip measures your hip circumference plus about 1 inch of ease. This will vary by size: approximately 29 inches for a Small, 33 for a Medium, 37 for a Large, and 41 for an Extra Large.

Once your band reaches the correct length, slip stitch the short ends together to form a tube. You now have a long, stretchy tube that will become your waistband.

Fold this tube in half lengthwise so both raw edges are aligned at the bottom. This folded edge is the top of your waistband — the part that sits at your natural waist or hips, depending on how you like to wear it. Set the waistband aside.

Step 2: Begin the Body

Now you’ll work the main body of the shorts in the round, starting from the joined waist edge.

Round 1: Join your yarn to the bottom open edge of your waistband tube with a slip stitch. Chain 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout). Work hdc evenly around the entire opening of the waistband. The exact number of stitches will depend on your size, but aim for approximately 100–120 stitches for a Small/Medium or 120–140 stitches for a Large/XL, spaced evenly. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 2.

Rounds 2–8: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch.

These rounds form the upper body section of the shorts. At this point you should have a tube that looks like a very wide skirt or a pillowcase. Don’t worry — it’ll come together when you divide for the legs.

Step 3: Shape the Crotch

This is the step that transforms your tube into actual shorts, and it’s simpler than it sounds. You’re going to divide your work in half and work each leg panel separately before joining them back together.

Count your total stitches and place a stitch marker at the halfway point. For example, if you have 120 stitches total, place your marker at stitch 60. These two points represent the front and back center points of your shorts.

Row 1 of crotch shaping: Working flat now (not in the round), chain 1, sc in the first 10 stitches. Slip stitch in the next stitch to anchor, then skip 40 stitches (this creates the crotch opening), slip stitch in the next stitch, and sc across the remaining stitches to the end. Turn.

You’ll work back and forth across these stitches for 4–6 rows to build up the crotch panel — this small bit of extra fabric is what gives the shorts their fit through the seat.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch across to the crotch gap. Work 2 sc into the gap itself (to start closing it), sc across the remaining stitches. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, working 2 sc into the gap again. Turn.

Repeat until the gap is completely closed. Seam or slip stitch the crotch closed securely. This seam is load-bearing in a sense, so take your time and work through both loops for a strong join.

Step 4: Work the Leg Openings

Now you’ll rejoin and work each leg opening separately. Divide your stitches evenly in half — half for the front leg and half for the back leg of the first opening.

Join your yarn to the first leg opening and work in the round:

Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around the leg opening. Join. (approximately 50–60 stitches, depending on your size)

Round 2: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.

Round 3: Work a simple scallop or shell edging if you like, or keep it clean with one round of sc through BLO for a nice subtle ridge that prevents the edge from rolling.

Fasten off. Repeat for the second leg opening.

Step 5: Insert the Elastic

This step is optional but highly recommended if you want the waistband to stay in place during wear.

Cut your elastic to your waist measurement minus 2 inches. Using a large safety pin attached to one end of the elastic, thread it through the inside of the folded waistband tube. Be careful not to twist the elastic as you feed it through.

Once both ends of the elastic come back out at the same opening, overlap them by about an inch and stitch securely together either by hand or with a sewing machine. Tuck the joined ends back inside the tube and the waistband will naturally encase them. You don’t need to sew the tube closed — the fold holds everything neatly in place.

Tips for Getting a Great Fit

Crochet garments behave a little differently than woven fabric, so keep these points in mind as you work.

Block your finished shorts. Wet blocking cotton will open up the stitches slightly, improve drape, and help the fabric relax into its final shape. Soak the finished shorts in cool water, gently squeeze out excess moisture, and lay flat to dry.

Try them on as you go. Because you’re working from the top down and building the body before dividing for the legs, you can hold the work up to your body or even try slipping it on at the waistband stage to check the width before you commit.

Add a drawstring for a more customized fit. Instead of just elastic, try threading a length of cotton rope, ribbon, or even a crocheted I-cord through the waistband. This gives you an adjustable option that’s also a cute design detail.

Customize the leg length. The pattern as written creates a very short inseam, great for beach cover-ups. For boardshorts-length, simply work additional rounds on the leg tubes before fastening off. Add a few inches at the bottom of the body before dividing for the legs if you want longer overall coverage.

Use stitch markers generously. Especially when you’re working in the round and decreasing, stitch markers help you keep track of where you are without having to count back from the beginning every single round.

Yarn Recommendations

The yarn you choose will dramatically affect how your finished shorts look and feel. Here are a few options worth considering.

For a classic, crisp look, a 100% mercerized cotton yarn is hard to beat. It holds its shape, launders well, and comes in a huge range of colors. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton is a widely available and affordable option that works beautifully for this pattern.

For something with more drape and a slightly silkier hand, look for a cotton-viscose or cotton-bamboo blend. Paintbox Simply DK Cotton or We Are Knitters’ Pima Cotton both offer that fluid, flattering drape that makes shorts look polished rather than stiff.

If you’re making these for the beach or poolside and want them to dry quickly, a quick-dry or performance yarn like Paintbox Simply Aran in Aran or a cotton-acrylic blend will stand up to repeated wet use better than pure cotton alone.

Avoid anything woolly or itchy for this project — these are shorts, and they’ll be up against bare skin.

Styling Your Crochet Foldover Shorts

Once your shorts are done, the fun part begins. Here are a few ways to style and wear them.

As a beach cover-up, pair them with a matching crochet crop top or a simple tank and sandals. The open crochet stitch naturally lets your swimsuit peek through, which gives a layered, intentional look without extra effort.

For a casual summer outfit, match your shorts with an oversized linen button-down worn open over a fitted tee. Flat sandals or sneakers complete the look effortlessly.

These also make wonderful loungewear. In a soft neutral like oat, ecru, or sage, they’re the kind of thing you’ll want to wear from morning coffee to an afternoon in the backyard.

Make a matching set by working a simple bralette or bandeau top using the same yarn and stitch pattern. Coordinating sets are always eye-catching, and making one to match something else you’ve already crocheted is a great way to get maximum wear out of your favorite yarn.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a beginner make these shorts? Yes, with some caveats. If you’re very new to crochet, practice your foundational stitches — chain, single crochet, and half double crochet — until they feel comfortable before starting. The construction of these shorts is logical and builds on itself, so as long as you’re comfortable working in the round and following stitch counts, you’ll be fine.

How long does it take to make a pair? Most crocheters working a couple of hours per day complete these in 3–5 days. The waistband takes the longest since it’s worked flat over many rows, but the body and legs work up quickly in the round.

Can I use acrylic yarn? Technically yes, but it’s not ideal. Acrylic doesn’t breathe as well as cotton and can feel uncomfortable against skin in warm weather. If you’re making these as purely decorative or photoshoot pieces rather than everyday wearables, go ahead. For actual wear, stick with a natural or natural-blend fiber.

How do I wash my crochet shorts? Turn them inside out and machine wash on a gentle, cool cycle, or hand wash and lay flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, especially with cotton, as heat can cause the fabric to shrink and the elastic to degrade over time.

Final Thoughts

Crochet foldover shorts are one of those projects that look impressive but are genuinely approachable once you understand the construction. The foldover waistband technique solves one of the trickiest parts of garment crochet — fitting the waist — in an elegant and forgiving way. The result is something wearable, stylish, and completely handmade.

Take your time with gauge, don’t rush the crotch shaping section, and block your finished piece for the best possible drape. Once you’ve made one pair, you’ll likely find yourself making another in a different color or experimenting with stitch patterns in the body panels.

If you make these shorts, share your finished project — it’s always wonderful to see how different yarn choices and color palettes completely transform the same pattern into something unique.

Happy crocheting!