Cedar Lavender Ladder Rib Mesh Tie Back Crochet Halter Top Pattern
There is something about a handmade halter top that feels distinctly personal — the kind of piece you reach for on a warm afternoon because you made it yourself, stitch by stitch, and because no one else has one quite like it. This Cedar Lavender Ladder Rib Mesh Tie Back Crochet Halter Top is exactly that kind of project. It combines an open, airy mesh structure with a ribbed ladder panel, finished with long ties that cross at the back for a flattering, adjustable fit. The cedar and lavender colorway is soft without being fussy, earthy without feeling dull, and the finished top works just as well over a swimsuit at the beach as it does tucked into high-waisted linen trousers for dinner.
Whether you are a confident intermediate crocheter looking for a wearable project you can actually finish in a weekend, or a beginner who has mastered the basics and wants to try something that looks more complex than it is, this pattern is for you. The construction is straightforward, worked mostly in flat panels with minimal seaming, and the sizing is flexible because of those signature tie back closures. Let’s walk through everything you need to know.
Materials and Tools
Before you cast on, gather your materials. Having everything ready before you begin makes the process much smoother, especially when you are working with a lighter weight yarn that can be easy to lose track of.
Yarn: You will need approximately 400–600 yards of DK or light worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. For the cedar and lavender colorway, look for a warm terracotta or dusty cedar tone as your main color (MC) and a soft lavender or dusty purple as your contrast color (CC). A cotton or cotton-blend yarn is highly recommended for this project. Cotton has the structure to hold the ladder rib mesh open and beautifully defined, and it washes easily, which is exactly what you want in a summer top. Rico Design’s Essentials Cotton DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and WeCrochet Comfy Cotton Blend are all excellent choices that come in shades that work perfectly for this colorway.
Hook: A US size G/6 (4.0 mm) or H/8 (5.0 mm) hook. Start with the G hook for a tighter gauge, or the H if you tend to crochet loosely. Always swatch before beginning.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, scissors, and a measuring tape. A row counter is optional but genuinely helpful for keeping track of your ladder rib repeats.
Gauge: In the main mesh stitch pattern, 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches. In the ladder rib panel, 12 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches. Gauge matters here. A top that is too loose will gap at the bust; one that is too tight will pull uncomfortably. Take the time to swatch.
Sizing
This pattern is written in four sizes: Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large. The finished bust measurement is approximately 30–32 inches (Small), 33–35 inches (Medium), 36–38 inches (Large), and 39–42 inches (Extra Large). Because this is a halter top with a tie back closure, there is natural flexibility in both the bust and the back width, so the fit is forgiving. When in doubt, size up rather than down, as the open mesh structure looks best with a little ease.
Stitch Guide and Abbreviations
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
sk — skip
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
MC — main color (cedar)
CC — contrast color (lavender)
Mesh Stitch (worked flat):
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st; rep from across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first ch-sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-sp; rep from to last sp, dc in top of turning ch, turn.
Repeat Row 2 for pattern.
Ladder Rib Stitch (worked flat in BLO):
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in BLO of each st across, turn.
Alternate Rows 1 and 2 for pattern. The alternation of sc and hdc worked through the back loop creates the raised ladder effect.
Pattern Notes
This halter top is worked in three main pieces: the front panel, the back panel, and the ties. The front panel features the ladder rib mesh in your contrast lavender color running down the center, flanked on each side by the main cedar mesh. The back panel is simpler, worked entirely in the main cedar mesh with two attached tie extensions that wrap around the body and tie at the front or the neck, depending on your preference.
The neck ties are worked separately and then sewn or joined to the top corners of the front panel. The back ties are a continuation of the back panel itself, so there is no separate seaming needed there — they simply extend and taper into long, comfortable straps.
Do not turn your work at the end of color change rows. Instead, carry the unused color loosely up the side of the work or cut and rejoin as needed. For a project this small, rejoining is tidier and avoids any puckering along the side seams.
Front Panel
With MC (cedar) and your hook, chain 55 (61, 67, 73) for Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large).
Foundation Row (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. You should have 53 (59, 65, 71) dc. Turn.
Row 1 (Mesh, RS): With MC, ch 3, sk first st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st; rep from across 15 (18, 20, 23) more sts. Switch to CC (lavender). Work mesh across the center 17 (17, 19, 19) sts. Switch back to MC. Continue mesh pattern to end of row. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): With MC, continue mesh pattern across first section. With CC, work mesh across center section. With MC, finish the row. Turn.
Continue working the front panel in this two-color mesh, keeping the lavender ladder rib panel centered, for a total of 18 (20, 22, 24) rows, or until the piece measures approximately 9 (10, 11, 12) inches from foundation.
Center Ladder Rib Panel (worked simultaneously): On the center 17 (17, 19, 19) stitches of each row, instead of the standard mesh, work the Ladder Rib Stitch as described above. The contrast of the tight, ridged ladder panel against the open mesh on either side is the defining visual feature of this top. Because the ladder rib naturally draws in slightly compared to the mesh, you may need to add one extra stitch on each side of the center section to keep the front panel lying flat. Check your gauge swatch to confirm.
Bust Shaping: At each end of Row 14 (15, 16, 17), decrease one stitch using a standard dc2tog. Repeat this decrease every other row twice more on each side for a total of 3 decreases per side. This creates a gentle curve at the upper edges of the front panel that will cup comfortably against the body.
Neck Shaping: After your final decrease row, divide the remaining stitches evenly and work each shoulder strap separately. Each strap should be approximately 5 (5, 6, 6) stitches wide. Continue in mesh pattern for 12 (13, 14, 15) inches for the neck ties. Fasten off.
Back Panel
With MC (cedar), chain 47 (53, 59, 65).
Foundation Row (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. You should have 45 (51, 57, 63) dc. Turn.
Work in the mesh stitch pattern with MC only for 14 (16, 18, 20) rows, or until the piece measures approximately 7 (8, 9, 10) inches from foundation. The back panel is intentionally shorter than the front, as it sits at a slightly higher point on the body due to the way the tie back closure works.
Back Tie Extensions: At the end of your final back panel row, do not fasten off. Instead, chain 80 (85, 90, 95) additional chains on each side. These extensions will become the ties that wrap around to the front. Work back along the chain in sc, sl st loosely so the tie remains flexible. Fasten off and repeat on the opposite side. The ties should feel soft and pliable — if they feel stiff, try going up a hook size just for this section.
Alternatively, if you prefer a cleaner look, you can work the back ties as separate chains worked in a simple sc column, then sew them to the sides of the back panel. Either method works beautifully.
Assembly
Lay your front and back panels flat with wrong sides facing up. Align the bottom edges. The side seams of this halter top are intentionally minimal — because it is an open mesh with tie closures, the two panels are joined only at the lower side edges, leaving the upper portion open so the ties can do their work.
Using a yarn needle threaded with MC, whip stitch the side seams together for approximately 3 (3.5, 4, 4.5) inches up from the bottom edge on each side. This gives the top just enough structure to stay in place without feeling restrictive.
Weave in all ends carefully. With an open mesh fabric, loose ends have a tendency to work themselves free during wear, so weave each tail in at least two directions and secure with a small knot before trimming.
Finishing and Edging
A clean edge makes all the difference on a handmade garment. Once your panels are assembled, work one round of sc around the entire lower hem and side seam edges in MC, joining with a sl st and keeping your tension even. Then work one row of reverse sc (also called crab stitch) along the same edge for a neat, polished finish that lies flat and doesn’t curl.
Along the upper edge of the back panel and down the sides of the front panel where the mesh begins, work a single row of sc in CC (lavender) for a subtle color-blocked trim that ties the two-tone design together.
For the neck tie straps, work a single row of sc along each long edge in MC to give the ties a finished, tidy appearance and prevent them from twisting when worn.
Block your finished top by hand washing in cool water with a gentle soap, pressing out excess water in a clean towel, and then pinning it flat to a blocking mat or clean dry towel in the desired finished dimensions. Allow to dry completely before wearing. Blocking is especially important for cotton projects — it evens out the stitches, opens up the mesh beautifully, and gives the finished garment that crisp, professional look.
How to Wear the Cedar Lavender Ladder Rib Mesh Tie Back Halter Top
The best part of a tie back design is the versatility. The back ties from the back panel can be crossed at the back and tied at the front for a wraparound effect, or they can be tied in a simple bow at the back for a more relaxed look. The neck ties from the front panel straps can be tied at the nape of the neck for a traditional halter silhouette, looped twice for extra security if you prefer, or tied at the crown of the head for a more dramatic style.
Wear it over a bralette or bandeau for a fashion-forward layered look. Pair it with high-waisted wide leg trousers and sandals for a Mediterranean evening feel, or pull it over a swimsuit for a beach cover up that is functional and beautiful. The cedar and lavender colorway plays exceptionally well with earth tones — think warm browns, cream, rust, and olive — but also pops against white denim for a summer festival aesthetic.
Tips for Success
Work a gauge swatch. It is tempting to skip this step, especially when you are excited to start, but a garment worked at the wrong gauge will not fit well regardless of how carefully you follow the pattern instructions.
Use stitch markers to mark the boundaries of your center ladder rib panel. Because you are switching between two color sections and two stitch patterns within the same row, having clear markers prevents errors from accumulating over many rows.
Keep your tension consistent when switching between the mesh and the ladder rib sections. The ladder rib naturally produces a slightly tighter fabric, so consciously relax your grip when working those center stitches.
If your mesh sections are curling at the edges during construction, do not worry — this is normal for cotton mesh and will relax completely with blocking.
Finally, don’t rush the ends. Weaving in ends neatly on a mesh fabric takes patience, but it is the step that makes your finished top look truly handcrafted in the best possible sense.
A Note on Yarn Substitutions
The cedar and lavender colorway is a suggestion, not a requirement. This pattern works beautifully in any two-color combination where one color is slightly deeper and one is softer — think sage green with cream, terracotta with dusty rose, navy with sky blue, or even a monochromatic tone-on-tone pairing in different shades of the same hue. If you make this top in a different colorway, share it — the stitch pattern is striking enough to carry almost any palette.
If you want a more luxurious drape, a cotton-linen blend or a bamboo-cotton blend will give the mesh a softer, more fluid quality. Just make sure to re-swatch if you switch yarns, as different fiber compositions can behave very differently even at the same weight.
This Cedar Lavender Ladder Rib Mesh Tie Back Crochet Halter Top is the kind of pattern that rewards the time you put into it. It is not complicated — the individual stitches are all accessible to anyone with solid basic skills — but it is layered enough to be interesting from start to finish, and the finished piece is something you will genuinely want to wear. Crochet it once, wear it all summer, and you will probably find yourself making it again in a different colorway before the season is out.
