Crochet High Waisted Shorts Tutorial – Free Pattern + Tutorial

If you’ve been scrolling through summer fashion inspiration and dreaming of a handmade wardrobe piece that’s both stylish and completely customizable, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. These crochet high waisted shorts are a project that checks every box — they’re flattering, breathable, surprisingly beginner-friendly once you understand the construction, and absolutely adorable whether you layer them over a swimsuit or pair them with a flowy crop top. This tutorial walks you through everything from materials to finishing details, complete with a free pattern you can follow step by step.

Let’s get started.

Why Crochet High Waisted Shorts Are Worth Making

Before we dive into yarn counts and stitch counts, let’s talk about why this project is so satisfying. Crochet shorts have had a major resurgence in the fashion world, and it’s not hard to see why. They bring that handcrafted, textured look that you simply cannot buy in a fast fashion store, and when you make them yourself, you control the fit entirely. High waisted styles are particularly popular right now because they elongate the legs, sit comfortably at the natural waist, and pair beautifully with tucked-in tops or oversized sweaters.

Making your own shorts also means you’re not constrained by limited sizing. Whether you’re petite, curvy, tall, or anywhere in between, a handmade crochet pattern can be adjusted to fit your exact measurements. That kind of customization is priceless, and once you understand how the pattern is constructed, making modifications becomes very intuitive.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials together before you begin saves a lot of frustration mid-project. Here’s what you’ll need for this free crochet high waisted shorts pattern.

Yarn: The yarn choice here makes a significant difference in how the finished shorts look and feel. For a beachy, lightweight look, a cotton or cotton-blend yarn is ideal. Cotton drapes beautifully, holds its shape well, and is breathable enough for warm weather wear. Look for a worsted weight or DK weight cotton yarn depending on how dense you want the finished fabric to be. For a more open, lacy look, a lighter DK weight works wonderfully. For a sturdier pair of shorts with more coverage, go with a worsted weight. You’ll need approximately 300 to 500 yards depending on your size and the style of stitch you choose.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook is a good starting point for worsted weight cotton, but always check your gauge swatch before committing to the full project. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up half a size. If your stitches tend to be loose, go down.

Notions: You’ll also want a yarn needle for weaving in ends, a measuring tape, scissors, stitch markers, and about one yard of elastic for the waistband. A half-inch to one-inch wide waistband elastic works best for this style.

Optional: If you want a button or tie closure at the waistband, grab a few decorative buttons or a length of coordinating ribbon or yarn for ties.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge is everything when you’re making a wearable garment. Taking ten minutes to work a gauge swatch will save you from making shorts that don’t fit and having to frog the entire project.

For this pattern using worsted weight cotton and a 5.0mm hook, aim for approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows to measure 4 inches by 4 inches in half double crochet. If your swatch is larger than this, try a smaller hook. If it’s smaller, go up a hook size.

Sizing Guide:

This pattern is written for a Small with notes for modifying up through an XL. To find your size, measure your natural waist (the narrowest part of your torso, usually an inch or two above your belly button) and your hips at their widest point.

Small fits a 26–28 inch waist and 36–38 inch hip. Medium fits a 29–31 inch waist and 39–41 inch hip. Large fits a 32–34 inch waist and 42–44 inch hip. XL fits a 35–38 inch waist and 45–48 inch hip.

The pattern works in a tube construction from the waist down, then splits at the crotch to form each leg opening. This makes it easy to customize the waist size by simply adjusting your starting chain.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

If you’re familiar with standard US crochet abbreviations, you’ll be right at home. Here’s a quick reference list for this pattern.

ch means chain. sl st means slip stitch. sc means single crochet. hdc means half double crochet. dc means double crochet. st means stitch. sp means space. rep means repeat. pm means place marker. blo means back loop only. yo means yarn over. RS means right side. WS means wrong side.

Free Crochet High Waisted Shorts Pattern

Step One: The Waistband

The waistband is worked first as a flat rectangle, then seamed to form a loop. This construction gives you a clean, structured waistband that holds its shape and houses the elastic beautifully.

Chain 20 (or adjust for a wider or narrower waistband — 20 chains at this gauge produces a waistband approximately 4.5 inches wide, which is perfect for a high waisted style).

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one sc in each chain across. You should have 19 sc. Chain 1, turn.

Row 2 through the end: Work one sc in the back loop only of each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Continue in this ribbed pattern until your waistband measures the circumference of your natural waist. For a Small, this is approximately 27 inches. For a Medium, approximately 30 inches. For a Large, approximately 33 inches. For an XL, approximately 36 inches.

Do not fasten off. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and slip stitch the two short ends together to form a ring. Now rotate the waistband so you’re working along one of the long edges — this will become the lower edge of the waistband from which you’ll build the body of the shorts.

Step Two: The Body

You’ll now work in joined rounds from the bottom edge of the waistband downward. This is where the shorts take shape, so take your time and place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to keep track.

Round 1: Working into the edge of the waistband ribbing, join yarn with a slip stitch, chain 2, and work one hdc in each row end around the waistband edge. The number of stitches here will depend on your waistband size, but aim for an even number. For a Small, you should have approximately 96 stitches. For a Medium, approximately 108. For a Large, approximately 120. For an XL, approximately 132. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain 2. Place marker.

Rounds 2 through 4: Chain 2, work one hdc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch. These rounds establish the upper body of the shorts and can be worked in any stitch pattern you prefer. A simple hdc creates a dense, stretchy fabric. If you’d like an open, lattice-style look, try a mesh stitch here instead (chain 1, skip 1, hdc in next stitch around).

Round 5 onward: Continue working in your chosen stitch pattern until the body of the shorts measures approximately 8 inches from the top of the waistband for a mid-thigh length, or 6 inches for a shorter style. You are creating a seamless tube at this stage.

Step Three: Shaping the Seat

For a better fit through the seat and hips, this pattern includes optional short row shaping. If you prefer a simpler construction, you can skip this step and proceed directly to the crotch division. However, if you want shorts that sit higher in the front and have a little extra room in the back — which is what high waisted shorts typically call for — these four rows make a noticeable difference.

Working on the back half of your shorts only (the back 48 stitches for a Small), work 4 rows back and forth in hdc, increasing one stitch at each end of every row. After 4 rows, cut your yarn and rejoin at the round marker to continue working in the round again. The extra fabric you’ve added creates a gentle curve through the seat.

Step Four: Dividing for the Leg Openings

This is the step that transforms your tube into actual shorts, and it’s simpler than it sounds.

At the midpoint of your shorts tube (this is the front center and back center), place two stitch markers dividing the tube into two equal halves — one front and one back. These two halves will become the two leg openings.

Now, working on just the front half of stitches, work back and forth in rows (not rounds) for approximately 4 more inches, or until your shorts reach the desired total length. At the end of every row, chain 1 and turn. This creates the front leg panel.

Fasten off and rejoin yarn to the back half of stitches. Work the back leg panel the same way for the same number of rows.

Once both panels are worked, you’ll seam the two inner leg edges together using a slip stitch seam or a whip stitch depending on your preference. Try the shorts on at this stage before seaming fully to ensure the rise feels comfortable. The crotch seam can be adjusted shorter or longer to suit your body.

Step Five: The Leg Hems

With the shorts assembled, it’s time to finish the leg openings with a clean hem. Join yarn at the inner leg seam of one leg opening.

Round 1: Work one sc around the entire leg opening, placing stitches evenly and keeping the edge flat. Join with a slip stitch. If the edge ruffles, you have too many stitches. If it puckers, you need a few more.

Round 2: Chain 3, skip 2 stitches, dc in next stitch, rep around for a picot or shell border — or simply work one more round of sc for a clean, understated finish. Join and fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg opening.

Step Six: Finishing the Waistband

Now it’s time to add the elastic to the waistband. Cut your elastic to your natural waist measurement plus about one inch for overlap. Thread it through the waistband channel (the folded, ribbed tube you made in Step One) using a safety pin attached to one end. Once the elastic is threaded all the way through, overlap the ends by about half an inch and stitch them together securely by hand or with a sewing machine.

If you’d like to skip the elastic entirely for a softer look, you can add crochet ties instead. Work two chains of approximately 24 inches each and attach them to the front center of the waistband. Tie them in a bow when wearing.

Weave in all remaining ends with your yarn needle.

Tips for Getting the Best Fit

The most common issue with crochet shorts is fit at the crotch and thighs, and it’s almost always solved by trying the shorts on at each stage rather than waiting until the end. Here are a few specific tips that make a real difference.

Measure twice and crochet once. Before you begin, take your measurements carefully and write them down. Compare your hip and waist measurements against the gauge and stitch counts in this pattern before you start your foundation chain.

Use lifelines. When you reach the crotch division point, thread a piece of contrasting yarn through your live stitches before you begin splitting the leg panels. This gives you a safety net if you need to rip back.

Block your swatch. Cotton yarn in particular benefits from wet blocking. Soak your gauge swatch, squeeze out the water, and lay it flat to dry before measuring. Your actual gauge may change after blocking, and it’s better to know this before you’ve made the entire garment.

Go up a size if you’re between sizes. Crochet fabric doesn’t stretch the same way knit fabric does, especially in cotton. If you’re between a Small and a Medium at the hip, make the Medium.

Stitch Pattern Variations to Try

One of the best things about this free pattern is that it serves as a foundation you can riff on endlessly. The body tube construction works with almost any stitch pattern, so here are a few variations to inspire you.

Granny square panel shorts are a beloved variation where you crochet individual granny squares and join them to form the body of the shorts instead of working in continuous rounds. The patchwork look is incredibly charming.

Shell stitch shorts give the body a feminine, scalloped texture. Substitute the hdc body rounds with a repeating shell stitch pattern (work 5 dc in one stitch, skip 2, sc in next, skip 2, rep around) for an elegant boho look.

Mesh or fishnet shorts are made by substituting chain-1 spaces for every other stitch in the body, creating an open, lattice-like fabric. These are best layered over a swimsuit or bike shorts since they’re very sheer.

V-stitch shorts work up quickly and create a beautiful diagonal texture. Alternate a dc, chain 1, dc all worked into the same stitch, skipping the next stitch, all the way around.

Caring for Your Crochet Shorts

Cotton crochet shorts are wonderfully low-maintenance compared to other fibers. Hand washing in cool water with a gentle detergent is the safest option and will extend the life of your shorts significantly. If you prefer to machine wash, use a lingerie bag and a delicate cycle. Always lay flat to dry — hanging crochet garments can stretch them out of shape. Avoid the dryer, as cotton tends to shrink with heat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a beginner make these shorts? This pattern uses basic stitches — single crochet, half double crochet, and slip stitch — so if you know how to work in the round and can confidently make a gauge swatch, you should be comfortable tackling this project. The waistband construction and leg division might feel new, but each step is explained thoroughly here.

How long does this project take? Most crocheters complete these shorts in about 8 to 12 hours of working time spread over a few days. Working up the body tube is the most time-consuming part, while the waistband and leg hems work up quickly.

Can I use a different yarn weight? Yes, with adjustments. If you use a bulky yarn, your gauge will change dramatically and you’ll need to recalculate your stitch counts. A thinner yarn like a sport or fingering weight will give you a more delicate, lightweight fabric and you’ll need more yardage. In all cases, working a gauge swatch is non-negotiable when making wearable garments.

What if my shorts are too loose after blocking? Cotton can relax a bit after washing. If your shorts are slightly looser than you’d like, you can add a thicker elastic to the waistband to cinch them in, or run a drawstring through the top round of the body.

Final Thoughts

There’s something especially satisfying about wearing a garment you made yourself, and crochet high waisted shorts are one of those projects that gets better every time you make them. Once you’ve worked through the construction once, you’ll find yourself reaching for this pattern again and again — in different colors, different stitch patterns, and different yarn weights for different seasons.

Pin this tutorial, bookmark the free pattern, and when you make your pair, share a photo. Seeing these come to life in different yarns and colorways never gets old. Happy crocheting!