DIY Crochet Two-Piece Set Pattern | Top & Embroidered Shorts

There is something undeniably satisfying about wearing something you made with your own hands, especially when that something is a coordinated set that looks like it came straight off a boutique rack. This crochet two-piece set — a fitted crop top paired with embroidered shorts — is exactly the kind of project that earns you compliments and makes you smile every single time someone asks where you got it. “I made it,” you’ll say, and you will absolutely mean it.

This pattern is designed for intermediate crochet enthusiasts, meaning you should be comfortable with basic stitches like single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet, as well as working in the round. If you’ve completed a few garments before, you’ll find this project flows naturally. If you’re newer to garment-making but confident in your stitch work, a little patience will carry you through beautifully.

Let’s walk through everything from materials to finishing touches so you can create your own crochet two-piece set from start to finish.

Materials You’ll Need

Before diving into the pattern itself, gathering the right materials will make the entire process smoother. For this project, you’ll want a yarn that has drape and a slight stretch — cotton blends and bamboo cotton yarns work exceptionally well for warm-weather wearables. They breathe well, soften with washing, and give garments that flowy, relaxed structure that looks intentional rather than stiff.

For the top and shorts, you’ll need approximately 800 to 1,000 yards of a DK or light worsted weight yarn in your main color. For the embroidery on the shorts, pick up a contrasting color or two — just small amounts, anywhere from 50 to 100 yards total depending on how detailed you want the embroidery to be.

You’ll also need a 4.0mm crochet hook for most of the fabric and a 3.5mm hook for ribbed sections and any tighter waistband work. A yarn needle for weaving in ends and completing embroidery is essential, along with stitch markers, scissors, and a measuring tape.

Optional but highly recommended: blocking mats and pins. Blocking a finished garment can genuinely transform it, evening out stitches and helping the piece hold its shape beautifully.

Gauge

Getting your gauge right is one of the most important steps in any garment pattern, and this project is no exception. Fit matters here since you’re making wearable clothing, not a blanket or a bag where a few extra stitches won’t change much.

With a 4.0mm hook and your chosen yarn, work a 4×4 inch swatch in half double crochet. You’re aiming for approximately 16 stitches and 12 rows per 4 inches. If your swatch comes out larger, try a smaller hook. If it’s smaller and tighter than the target, move up a hook size. Take a few minutes to do this — it will save you from finishing an entire top only to find it doesn’t fit the way you hoped.

Sizing

This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL. The finished measurements for the top are approximately 28 inches (XS), 32 inches (S), 36 inches (M), 40 inches (L), and 44 inches (XL) at the bust. The top is cropped and designed to hit just at or slightly above the natural waist, so it pairs naturally with the high-waisted shorts.

The shorts are written with a 26 to 44 inch waist range, with adjustability built into the waistband so you can fine-tune the fit. They sit at the high waist and hit mid-thigh, giving them a relaxed, comfortable silhouette with a little feminine structure from the embroidery.

Throughout the pattern, instructions for each size will appear in this order: XS (S, M, L, XL). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

The Crochet Top

Starting With the Yoke

The top is constructed top-down, starting with a yoke worked in joined rounds. This construction method gives you built-in shaping without complex seaming, and you can try the top on as you go — one of the biggest advantages of top-down garment construction.

To begin, chain 64 (68, 74, 80, 86). Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist your chain.

Round 1: Chain 2 (this does not count as a stitch throughout this pattern). Work 1 half double crochet (hdc) into each chain around. Join with a slip stitch to the first hdc. — 64 (68, 74, 80, 86) stitches.

Place stitch markers at the following points to mark your raglan lines: after stitch 8 (9, 10, 11, 12), after stitch 24 (26, 28, 30, 32), after stitch 32 (34, 38, 42, 46), and after stitch 48 (51, 56, 61, 66). These markers divide your yoke into the back panel, two sleeves, and the front panel.

Round 2 (Increase Round): Chain 2, work hdc in each stitch to 1 stitch before the first marker, work 3 hdc in the next stitch (the one before the marker), slip the marker, work 3 hdc in the next stitch (the one after the marker), and continue working 1 hdc in each stitch across, repeating the double increase at each marked point. Join. — 8 stitches increased per round.

Repeat Round 2 for 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) more increase rounds, working all other stitches in plain hdc. You should now have 160 (180, 202, 224, 246) total stitches.

Separating Body and Sleeves

On the next round, work across the back panel stitches in hdc, skip the sleeve stitches (place them on a stitch holder or length of scrap yarn), chain 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) for the underarm, work across the front panel stitches, chain 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) for the second underarm, and join.

Work across these chains as regular hdc stitches on the following round to give you your full body stitch count: approximately 80 (90, 102, 114, 126) stitches for the body.

The Body of the Top

Continue working in joined rounds of hdc for 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) rounds until the body reaches approximately 4 to 5 inches from the underarm divide. Try it on as you go — you want the hem to hit right at your natural waist or just above it.

On the final body round, switch to your 3.5mm hook and work one round of single crochet (sc) in the back loop only. This creates a subtle textural ridge that helps define the hem edge.

Work 4 rounds of ribbing: chain 1, sc in the back loop only across, join. This gives the hem a gentle grip without being too tight.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing the Sleeves (Optional)

If you’d like short cap sleeves rather than a sleeveless top, return to your held sleeve stitches. Join yarn at the center of the underarm chain and work 3 rounds of hdc around the sleeve opening, then 2 rounds of sc in the back loop only for a neat ribbed edge. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second sleeve.

For a sleeveless top, simply work a single round of sc around each armhole opening to clean up the edge, then fasten off.

The Embroidered Crochet Shorts

The Waistband

The shorts are worked from the waistband down, beginning with a stretchy ribbed waistband that will hold the shorts in place at your high waist.

With your 3.5mm hook, chain 16.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. — 15 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in the back loop only across. Chain 1, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your waistband measures 26 (29, 32, 36, 40) inches, or until it comfortably wraps around your waist with slight stretch. Join the short ends together with a slip stitch seam to form a ring.

The Hip and Shorts Body

Join your main yarn at a seam of the waistband and begin working into the long edge (the top ridge of the ribbing) in joined rounds.

Round 1: Work 1 hdc into each ridge space around the waistband. You should have approximately 80 (88, 100, 112, 124) stitches depending on how many rows your waistband has.

Continue working rounds of hdc for 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) inches from the waistband join. This section forms the hips and the upper portion of the shorts.

Crotch Shaping and Legs

At this point, you’ll divide the work to create two separate leg openings.

Flatten the shorts body so the side seams align at the sides. Mark the front and back center points with stitch markers. At the front center, chain 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) for the crotch curve.

Working only on the front half of your stitches plus half the crotch chain, join to work the first leg in the round: approximately 48 (52, 58, 64, 70) stitches.

Work 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) rounds of hdc for the leg. On the final round, switch to your 3.5mm hook and work 3 rounds of sc in the back loop only for a snug but not restrictive leg hem.

Fasten off and weave in ends, then return to the remaining stitches to work the second leg the same way.

The Embroidery

This is where your two-piece set really comes to life. The embroidery on the shorts is worked after the crocheted fabric is complete, using a yarn needle and your contrasting yarn colors. You’ll be stitching directly onto the surface of the crochet fabric, which acts as a natural grid.

Choosing Your Design

The beauty of this part is that the design is entirely yours to customize. Some classic choices that read beautifully on crochet fabric include simple floral motifs, vines and leaves, geometric line patterns, or small scattered stars and dots. For a romantic, feminine look, a small climbing vine with lazy daisy stitch flowers worked along one hip and trailing partway down the leg is stunning. For something more graphic and modern, repeating geometric diamonds worked in a single contrasting color down the side of each leg gives the shorts real visual punch.

Whatever you choose, sketch it lightly on paper first so you have a rough sense of placement. Crochet stitches are visible guides — you can follow rows and columns to keep lines straight and motifs symmetrical.

Basic Embroidery Stitches on Crochet

A few embroidery stitches translate especially well to crochet fabric. The straight stitch is the simplest — you bring your needle up through the fabric and back down in a single motion, creating a clean line. Combine several straight stitches radiating from a center point to create simple star shapes or flower petals.

The chain stitch creates beautiful flowing lines and curves, perfect for stems, vines, or outlines. Bring your needle up through the fabric, loop the yarn, and bring the needle back down through the same hole while holding the loop. Come back up a short distance away inside the loop and repeat. The result is a linked chain that follows any curve you guide it along.

The French knot adds wonderful texture and works beautifully as flower centers, scattered berries, or polka dots. Bring your needle up through the fabric, wrap the yarn around the needle two or three times, then insert the needle back down right next to where it came up, holding the wrapped loops in place as you pull through.

The lazy daisy stitch is perfect for small flowers and leaves. Like the chain stitch, you create a loop, but instead of continuing the chain, you anchor each loop individually with a small catching stitch at the tip. A ring of five or six lazy daisy stitches around a French knot center creates the most charming little flowers.

Placing Your Embroidery

For a cohesive look that ties the set together, consider echoing one embroidery element on both the shorts and the top. A few small flowers at the neckline or along the hem of the top, matching the larger floral arrangement on the shorts, creates that intentional, coordinated feel that makes the set look professionally designed.

Work your embroidery in good light so you can see your stitches clearly. Use a blunt-tipped tapestry needle rather than a sharp embroidery needle, since you want to pass through the crochet stitches rather than split the yarn fibers. Take your time — embroidery is meditative once you settle into it, and the finished effect is absolutely worth the extra hours.

Finishing and Blocking

Once all your pieces are complete and all ends are woven in neatly (this step really does matter — loose ends will work their way to the surface over time), it’s time to block your set.

Wet blocking works wonderfully for cotton and cotton-blend yarns. Submerge your finished pieces in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing or twisting, and lay them flat on your blocking mats. Use rust-proof pins to shape the pieces to your measurements, gently coaxing the fabric into its best form. Pay special attention to the hem edges and any curved sections. Let everything dry completely before unpinning — this can take 12 to 24 hours depending on your climate.

The difference blocking makes is genuinely remarkable. Stitches even out, the fabric softens and drapes, and the whole set looks polished and intentional.

Care Instructions

To keep your crochet two-piece set looking its best, hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent formulated for delicates. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, since wet crochet fabric can stretch under its own weight. Avoid machine washing unless your specific yarn’s label recommends it, and never tumble dry on high heat.

Styling Your Set

This crochet two-piece is genuinely versatile. Wear the top tucked into high-waisted jeans or a linen skirt for a casual daytime look. Style the shorts with a simple white linen shirt tied at the waist for a beach or vacation outfit. Together as a set, they work beautifully for a summer festival, a rooftop dinner, or a day spent somewhere warm and beautiful.

Sandals, espadrilles, or strappy heeled mules all complement the set well. Keep accessories minimal to let the texture and embroidery be the focal point — a simple gold chain necklace and some hoop earrings are all you need.

A Few Final Tips

Mark your rounds as you go, especially when working the top-down yoke. It’s easy to lose track of increase rounds, and a few misplaced stitches early in the yoke can affect the fit of the entire garment.

Don’t be afraid to try the top on during construction. Top-down construction is specifically designed to allow this, and checking the fit as you go is far easier than frogging a finished piece.

For the embroidery, start with simple designs before attempting complex florals if embroidery is new to you. Even a few scattered French knots and some straight-stitch geometric lines look beautiful on crochet fabric, and you’ll gain confidence quickly.

Finally, enjoy this process. This is not a fast project, and that is part of what makes it special. There is real craft here, real skill, and real beauty in the time you put in. When you wear this set, you’ll carry all of those hours with you in the best possible way.