Free Crochet Tube Top With Mesh Pattern — Crochet Mine

If you’ve been searching for the perfect summer crochet project, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This free crochet tube top with mesh pattern is everything you need: breezy, stylish, stretchy, and beginner-friendly enough that you can finish it in a weekend. Whether you’re heading to the beach, layering over a swimsuit, or dressing it up for a summer festival, this mesh tube top is one of those pieces that earns its place in your wardrobe the moment you slip it on.

Below, you’ll find everything — the full free pattern, step-by-step instructions, sizing guidance, yarn recommendations, and tips for customizing it to fit your unique style. Let’s get into it.

Why You’ll Love This Mesh Tube Top Pattern

Before we dive into yarn weights and stitch counts, let’s talk about why this pattern has become such a favorite in the crochet community.

First, the mesh construction makes it incredibly lightweight. Unlike a solid-stitch top that traps heat, the open lacework of a mesh design allows air to circulate, keeping you cool on warm days. It’s the kind of top you reach for when you want to feel put-together without feeling overheated.

Second, the tube top silhouette is universally flattering and endlessly versatile. Wear it as a standalone piece, layer it over a bikini top or bandeau, or tuck it into a high-waisted skirt for a more polished look. The elastic or stretchy band at the top keeps everything in place, so you’re not constantly tugging it up throughout the day.

Third — and this is the big one — it’s free. You don’t need to spend money on a commercial pattern when this one gives you everything you need to create a beautiful, finished garment.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials together before you start is one of those small habits that makes the entire crochet process smoother. Here’s what you’ll need for this project.

Yarn: You’ll want a lightweight yarn for this project — a size 2 (fine) or size 3 (light) yarn works beautifully. Cotton or cotton-blend yarn is the gold standard for summer garments because it breathes well, holds its shape, and washes easily. Look for yarns like Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, or Drops Safran. You’ll need approximately 300–500 yards depending on your size.

Hook: A 3.5mm (E/4) to 4.5mm (G/6) crochet hook works well with these yarn weights. Always check your gauge swatch, because tension varies from person to person, and getting your gauge right is the difference between a top that fits perfectly and one that ends up too loose or too snug.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape. If you’d like a drawstring waist or a gathered top band, you can also pick up a small length of elastic.

Sizing and Measurements

This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL, with the following finished measurements for the tube itself before stretching.

For an XS (fits a 28–30 inch bust), you’ll aim for a finished width of approximately 24–26 inches laid flat, so the fabric can stretch comfortably around the body. For a Small (32–34 inch bust), target 27–29 inches flat. For a Medium (36–38 inch bust), go for 30–32 inches flat. For a Large (40–42 inch bust), aim for 34–36 inches. For an XL (44–46 inch bust), target 38–40 inches flat.

The length of the top is typically 12–16 inches depending on your preference. A 12-inch length hits just above the navel for a cropped look, while 16 inches gives you a bit more coverage. You can easily adjust the length by adding or subtracting rows.

Because mesh fabric has natural stretch and drape, you don’t need to aim for zero ease — building in about 2–4 inches of negative ease (meaning the fabric will stretch slightly to fit your body) gives you that snug, flattering fit without being uncomfortably tight.

Gauge

Gauge in crochet is especially important for garments. A small difference in tension across your stitches adds up quickly when you’re working around a circumference.

For this pattern, aim for approximately 16 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in the mesh stitch pattern using your chosen yarn and hook. Work a gauge swatch of at least 6 x 6 inches, wash it the way you’ll wash the finished garment, let it dry flat, and then measure. Adjust your hook size up if your gauge is too tight (stitches too small) or down if your gauge is too loose (stitches too large).

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

Here are the abbreviations used throughout this pattern.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
rep — repeat
sk — skip
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side

The main stitch in this pattern is a simple mesh made up of double crochets and chain spaces, creating that airy, open grid look that makes it perfect for warm weather. If you’ve worked any kind of shell stitch, granny square, or filet crochet before, this mesh will feel very familiar.

The Mesh Stitch Explained

Before jumping into the pattern rows, it helps to understand the mesh stitch on its own.

The mesh is built on a foundation of chains, worked in a tube (joined in the round). Each row of mesh is created by working a double crochet, chaining one or two stitches, skipping the equivalent number of stitches, and repeating across. The result is a grid of small squares or diamonds, depending on how many chains you use between your double crochets.

For this tube top, we’re using a simple ch-1 mesh with double crochets, which creates small, even squares that have a clean, modern feel. It’s not so open that it’s see-through, but it still lets plenty of air in.

Free Pattern Instructions

Foundation Chain

To begin, chain a multiple of 2 + 2 stitches. The exact number will depend on your size and yarn gauge.

For a rough starting guide using a size 3 cotton yarn and a 4.0mm hook at the gauge listed above, use the following starting chains.

XS: Chain 96
S: Chain 108
M: Chain 120
L: Chain 132
XL: Chain 144

Join with a slip stitch to the first chain, being very careful not to twist your chain. This forms the tube you’ll work into.

Row 1 (Foundation Mesh Row)

Chain 3 (counts as first dc). Skip the next chain. Work 1 dc into the following chain. Continue by alternating ch 1, skip 1, dc in next stitch across the entire round. At the end, chain 1, and join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-3. You should have a series of evenly spaced double crochets with chain-1 spaces between them.

Row 2 (Mesh Row — Repeat This Row for Length)

Chain 3 (counts as first dc). Chain 1. Skip the dc below. Work 1 dc into the ch-1 space. Continue by alternating ch 1, dc across the round, ending with ch 1 and joining to the top of the beginning ch-3 with a slip stitch.

Repeat Row 2 until your tube measures your desired length. For a standard 13-inch tube top, you’ll work approximately 28–32 rows depending on your gauge. Keep measuring as you go.

Top Band

Once your tube reaches the desired length, it’s time to create the top band. This is the section that sits at the bust and keeps the top in place.

Switch to single crochet for a tighter, sturdier band. Work 1 sc into each stitch and each chain space around for 3–4 rounds. This creates a dense, firm edge that grips the body and prevents the top from sliding down.

If you want to add a casing for elastic, work 2 extra rounds of single crochet, then fold the band in half to the inside and slip stitch it down, leaving a small gap to thread your elastic through. Cut your elastic to your underbust measurement plus about half an inch of overlap, thread it through the casing, sew the ends together securely, and close the gap with a few slip stitches.

Bottom Hem

For the bottom hem, you have a few options. The simplest finish is 2–3 rounds of single crochet, which gives you a clean, flat edge. You can also work a picot edge (sc, ch 3, sl st into first ch, sc) for a feminine, decorative finish, or a shell border (5 dc into the same stitch, skip 2 sts, sl st, skip 2 sts, repeat) for something with more visual interest.

Fasten off and weave in your ends using your yarn needle.

Tips for Getting the Perfect Fit

Fit is everything when it comes to garments, and tube tops in particular are very sensitive to sizing. Here are a few things to keep in mind as you work through this project.

Swatch before you start. It genuinely cannot be overstated. Even if you’ve worked with the same yarn before, your tension can shift depending on the hook, the day, or how relaxed you are while crocheting.

Try it on as you go. Because this is a tube worked in the round, you can easily slip it over a dress form or even over your body every five or six rows to check how it’s fitting. Catching a sizing issue early saves you from having to frog (unravel) a large portion of your work.

Use stitch markers liberally. Mark the beginning of each round so you don’t lose track. You can also mark every 20 stitches around the circumference to help you spot any unintentional increases or decreases early.

Consider your yarn’s drape. Cotton has very little stretch compared to a cotton-acrylic or cotton-nylon blend. If you’re using pure cotton, you may want to add a few extra chains to your foundation to build in a touch more ease. If you’re using a blend with some elastic or nylon content, you might be able to work with a bit more negative ease.

Customizing Your Tube Top

One of the best things about a simple mesh pattern is how easy it is to make it your own. Here are a few ideas for adding personal touches.

Color blocking. Work the bottom half in one color and the top half in another, changing colors mid-project for a bold, graphic look.

Striping. Change colors every two or four rows for a classic stripe effect. With a tube worked in the round, you’ll need to cut and join your yarn at the beginning of each new stripe color unless you’re using a continuous spiral join.

Waist shaping. To give the top more of an hourglass silhouette, you can decrease stitches gradually in the middle of the tube and then increase them again. Work 2 dc decreases spaced evenly around the tube for three or four rows to nip in the waist, then work 2 dc increases at the same points to flare the hip section back out.

Adjusting the mesh openness. If you want a more open, lacy mesh, try working ch-2 spaces instead of ch-1, and skip 2 stitches instead of 1. This creates larger squares in the grid and gives the top a more delicate, lace-like appearance. Just be aware that larger mesh holes are more see-through, so you may want to wear a bandeau or bralette underneath.

Adding ties or straps. If you’d like to convert this into a halter top, work two long chains from the front center of the top band, cross them behind the neck, and tie at the back. You can also add thin shoulder straps by crocheting chains and sewing them to the top band at even intervals.

Yarn Substitution Guide

If you can’t find the specific yarns mentioned above, here’s what to look for in a substitute.

You want a yarn that is smooth and tightly plied, so your mesh stitches read clearly and don’t get fuzzy or obscure the open spaces. A hairy or fluffy yarn like mohair or bouclé will fill in your chain spaces and make the mesh disappear, which defeats the whole purpose. Stick with cotton, linen, bamboo, silk blend, or a clean cotton-acrylic mix.

In terms of weight, a DK (size 3) or sport (size 2) yarn is ideal. Fingering weight (size 1) will give you a very fine, delicate mesh but will take much longer to work up and will require many more stitches. Worsted weight (size 4) is too heavy for a summer top — it will be dense and warm rather than airy and cool.

Look for yarns labeled “machine washable” if you want easy care. Crochet garments can be a bit fragile in the wash, and being able to toss your tube top in the machine on a gentle cycle with cold water makes it much more wearable day to day.

Caring for Your Finished Top

Once your top is finished, treat it with a little care to keep it looking its best.

Wash in cold water on a gentle or delicate cycle, or hand wash in cool water with a small amount of gentle soap. Don’t wring or twist the fabric — gently squeeze out excess water and roll the top in a clean towel to absorb moisture. Lay flat to dry to prevent stretching.

Cotton tends to relax and grow slightly after washing, so if your top feels a touch snug right off the hook, that’s perfectly normal. It will ease up beautifully once it’s been washed.

Store your crocheted tops folded flat rather than hanging, especially if you’ve used a pure cotton yarn. Hanging can cause the fabric to grow and distort over time.

Final Thoughts

This free crochet tube top with mesh pattern is one of those projects that rewards you immediately. The mesh pattern is satisfying to work because it grows quickly, the structure keeps you from getting bored row after row, and the finished result looks far more complicated than it actually is. People will absolutely ask you where you bought it, and you’ll get to say you made it yourself.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick summer make or someone who’s relatively new to garment construction, this pattern meets you where you are. The stitch pattern is simple, the construction is intuitive, and the fit is forgiving enough that you have plenty of room to adjust as you go.

Grab your cotton yarn, pick your favorite summer color, and get started. Your handmade mesh tube top is waiting.

If you make this top, I’d love to see it! Share your finished project on Instagram or Pinterest and tag it so the community can see your version. And if you have questions about the pattern, drop them in the comments below — I check regularly and I’m happy to help you troubleshoot sizing, stitch counts, or anything else you’re working through.

Happy crocheting!