Free Daisy Mesh Crop Top Crochet Pattern: Step-by-Step Tutorial

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet inspiration lately, chances are you’ve fallen in love with the dreamy, boho aesthetic of a daisy mesh crop top. Light, airy, and endlessly flattering, this style has taken the crochet community by storm — and the best part is that it’s completely achievable at home, even if you’re still building your skills. This free daisy mesh crop top crochet pattern will walk you through every single step, from gathering your materials to weaving in your last end, so you can create a stunning summer top that looks like it came straight from a boutique.

Whether you’re making this for a beach day, a festival, layering over a bralette for a night out, or simply because you love the process of creating something beautiful, this pattern has you covered. Let’s dive in.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Before we get to the how, let’s talk about the why. The daisy mesh crop top is one of those projects that checks every box. The stitch pattern creates an open, lacy fabric that’s breathable and lightweight, perfect for warm weather. The daisy motif adds a feminine, whimsical touch that elevates it beyond a basic mesh top. It’s customizable to fit different body types, and once you understand the repeat, the rhythm of the stitch becomes almost meditative.

This pattern is rated as beginner-intermediate. If you’re comfortable with basic crochet stitches like chain, single crochet, and double crochet, you’re ready. A few of the daisy construction techniques might feel new, but don’t worry — everything is explained in detail.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting the right materials makes a significant difference in the finished look and feel of your top.

Yarn: Choose a lightweight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in size 2 (fine) or size 3 (light). Cotton works beautifully for summer tops because it’s breathable, holds its shape, and drapes well. Popular choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, or any similar yarn around 180–220 yards per 100g skein. For a small top (sizes XS–S), you’ll need approximately 400–500 yards. For a medium, plan for 500–600 yards. For a large to extra-large, budget 650–800 yards. Always grab an extra skein just in case.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well with most DK or light worsted cotton yarn. Check your tension swatch and adjust accordingly.

Additional supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and blocking mats and pins if you want a crisp, professional finish.

Understanding the Daisy Stitch

The star of this pattern — quite literally — is the daisy stitch. It creates a small flower-like motif surrounded by mesh, giving the fabric that signature delicate look. The daisy is formed using a combination of yarn overs and cluster stitches pulled through a central point, creating petals that radiate outward. Here’s the core technique before we begin the actual pattern.

Daisy Center (worked as a cluster): Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (you’ll have two loops on the hook). Repeat this in the same or adjacent stitches as directed until you have multiple loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops at once. This creates a gathered center point from which the petals extend.

Daisy Petal: Each petal is typically a double crochet or extended single crochet worked outward from the center. The number of petals in this pattern is six, giving each daisy a full, rounded appearance.

Once you practice the daisy stitch a few times on a small swatch, it will click quickly. Take your time with the first row — after that, the pattern flows naturally.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written for the following sizes:

XS/S: Fits a 30–34 inch bust. Finished garment measures approximately 28–30 inches around (designed with negative ease for a fitted look).

M/L: Fits a 35–40 inch bust. Finished garment measures approximately 34–36 inches around.

XL/2XL: Fits a 41–46 inch bust. Finished garment measures approximately 40–42 inches around.

The length of the crop top from underarm to hem is approximately 10–12 inches for all sizes, which gives that classic cropped silhouette. If you’d like it longer, you can easily add extra rows to the body before finishing the hem.

Throughout the pattern, instructions for larger sizes appear in parentheses in the order M/L, XL/2XL. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Gauge

Before starting, please take time to make a gauge swatch. Gauge affects fit significantly in garment projects.

Using your chosen yarn and hook, chain 20 stitches and work the daisy mesh pattern for 15 rows. After blocking, your swatch should measure approximately 4 inches wide by 4 inches tall. Adjust your hook size up or down as needed to match this gauge. Going up a hook size creates a looser, more open fabric. Going down creates a tighter, denser mesh.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Here are the abbreviations used throughout this pattern.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
yo — yarn over
sk — skip
st — stitch
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Daisy — the daisy cluster stitch described in the section above
DC3tog — double crochet three together (a standard decrease)

Pattern Instructions

Foundation Chain

Begin by chaining your foundation. The number of chains is based on a multiple of 8, plus 4 for the turning chain.

XS/S: Chain 68
M/L: Chain 84
XL/2XL: Chain 100

Row 1 (Wrong Side):

Starting in the 4th chain from your hook, work 1 dc. Dc across the entire foundation chain. You should end with 65 (81, 97) dc total, including the turning chain at the beginning.

Turn your work.

Row 2 (Right Side):

Chain 5 (this counts as 1 dc + 2 ch). Skip the first 2 dc. Work 1 dc into the next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc. Repeat from across, ending with 1 dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn.

This row establishes your mesh foundation. It should feel light and open — this is exactly what you want.

Row 3 (Wrong Side):

Chain 3 (counts as dc). Work 2 dc into the first ch-2 space. Ch 2, work 3 dc into the next ch-2 space. Repeat from across the row. End with ch 2, work 1 dc into the 3rd chain of the starting chain from the previous row. Turn.

Row 4 (Right Side — First Daisy Row):

This is where the magic begins. Chain 4.

Begin your daisy stitch: insert hook into the base of the first 3-dc cluster from the row below, yo, pull up a long loop. Insert hook into the top of the first dc of that cluster, yo, pull up a loop. Insert hook into the ch-2 space, yo, pull up a loop. Insert hook into the top of the first dc of the next cluster, yo, pull up a loop. Insert hook into the base of the next 3-dc cluster, yo, pull up a loop. You now have 11 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all loops — this closes your daisy center. Chain 4 to anchor the petal, sl st back into the center. Work a small picot or chain 2 for each of the 6 petal positions by inserting back into the center and anchoring. Chain 4, skip the next ch-2 sp, repeat from across the row.*

This row takes the longest, but once you’ve completed your first daisy, every subsequent one comes together much faster. By the end of this row, you’ll have a row of charming little daisies sitting across your fabric.

Row 5:

Chain 3. Work 1 dc into the center of the first daisy. Ch 2, work 3 dc bridging across into the center of the next daisy. Repeat from across. End with 1 dc into the final daisy center. Turn.

Rows 6–7:

Repeat Rows 2–3 to work two additional rows of mesh before the next daisy row.

Row 8:

Repeat Row 4 to place another row of daisies.

This establishes your pattern repeat: two mesh rows, one daisy row. Continue repeating this sequence until your work measures approximately 10 inches from the foundation chain edge, or your desired crop length minus about half an inch for the hem. End on a Row 5 or Row 3 equivalent (a 3-dc cluster row) so your hem has a clean, structured base to work from.

Shaping the Top

If you want a simple tube-style crop top, you can join the work into a round at this point and proceed to the straps and neckline finishing. For a shaped top with slight waist tapering, follow these additional steps.

After 4 inches of body length, work a decrease row: replace your standard mesh row with a row that uses DC3tog over three consecutive mesh spaces at each side seam position (approximately every 20 stitches for XS/S, every 24 for M/L, every 28 for XL/2XL). This draws the fabric in slightly at the waist.

After completing the decrease, work 2 more plain mesh rows, then resume the daisy repeat as normal. The gentle shaping creates a more tailored look without compromising the drape of the mesh fabric.

Joining and Working in the Round

Once your panel reaches the desired length, fold it so the right sides are facing each other and the short ends align. Use slip stitches or a flat join along the side seam to connect the two ends, creating a tube. Turn right-side out.

If you prefer to work in the round from the start rather than seaming, you can certainly do that. Simply join your foundation chain into a ring with a slip stitch (make sure it isn’t twisted), then work each row as a round. Keep in mind you’ll always be working on the right side, so your daisy rows will look slightly different. Work them from the right side perspective and your daisies will face outward beautifully.

Neckline and Strap Finishing

With your top assembled, it’s time to create the upper edge, neckline, and straps. This is where you give the top its final silhouette.

Upper Body Edge: Join your yarn at the side seam with a slip stitch. Work one full round of sc evenly around the top edge. This stabilizes the fabric and gives you a clean base for the straps.

Front Neckline Shaping (optional): For a straight-across neckline, skip this shaping step. For a slight V-neck or sweetheart neckline, work the front portion of the sc round with decreases at the center front: sc2tog every 3 stitches for about 10 stitches on either side of the center front marker. Work the back normally.

Straps: The daisy mesh crop top traditionally features two simple straps — one on each side — that tie or fasten at the back. To create a strap, count approximately 20 (24, 28) stitches in from each outer edge of the front panel and mark those points.

At the right strap marker, attach yarn and chain 50–60 stitches (adjust for your preferred strap length). Work back along the chain in sc for a double-layered strap. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for finishing. Repeat on the left strap. The straps cross over or tie at the back, creating a lovely open-back look.

For a more polished look, work a second row of sc along each strap, or work in a small twisted or braided strap using multiple strands.

Hem Finishing

For the hem at the bottom of the top, join yarn at the side seam. Work one round of sc around the entire lower edge. On the following round, work a simple shell stitch hem: skip 2 sc, work 5 dc in the next sc, skip 2 sc, sl st in the next sc. Repeat from around. This shell hem adds a delicate, finished edge that complements the daisy motif beautifully.

Alternatively, you can work a simple picot edge: sc, ch 3, sl st in the first chain of that ch-3 (this makes a picot), sc in the next 2 stitches. Repeat from around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Blocking Your Finished Top

Blocking is optional but highly recommended for lacy crochet garments. It opens up the mesh, defines the daisy motifs, and gives the entire top a polished, professional look.

To block, fill a basin with cool water and gently submerge the top. Allow it to soak for 15–20 minutes. Remove it without wringing, squeeze out excess water gently by pressing between two clean towels, then lay it flat on your blocking mats. Pin it into the desired dimensions, paying special attention to the daisy rows and any shaped areas. Allow it to dry completely — this can take 12–24 hours depending on your yarn and climate. Once dry, unpin it and try it on. You’ll be amazed at the difference blocking makes.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it adapts to your personal style.

Color: Try a classic white for a boho summer vibe, a warm terracotta or sage green for a trendy earth-tone look, or a soft pastel for something romantic and feminine. You can also work the top in two or three colors by changing yarn at the end of each daisy row.

Length: To make this a full top rather than a crop, simply add more repeats to the body before finishing. Add 6–8 extra rows for a mid-length top, or continue until you reach your desired measurement for a longer bohemian blouse.

Straps: Swap the tie straps for a halter neck by creating one long strap at each outer front edge that meets at the nape of the neck. Add button closures, rings, or D-rings for a more structured strap style.

Yarn fiber: While cotton is ideal for summer, you can use a bamboo blend for extra drape and a subtle sheen, or a linen-cotton blend for a more rustic, textured look.

Tips for Success

A few final tips before you cast on will save you a lot of frustration along the way.

Always count your stitches at the end of each row, especially in the first four rows. The mesh pattern can be easy to lose if you accidentally skip or add stitches in the chain spaces.

Use stitch markers liberally. Mark the beginning of each round if you’re working in the round, and mark the center front and center back for reference during shaping.

Don’t skip the gauge swatch. It takes twenty minutes and can be the difference between a top that fits perfectly and one that doesn’t fit at all.

When working the daisy stitch rows, go slowly and make sure each loop is the same tension. Loose or uneven loops in the daisy center will create a messy-looking flower. Consistent tension is the key to defined, beautiful daisies.

If your yarn splits easily, slow down and check your hook entry point before each insertion. A smooth, rounded hook tip helps with splitty yarns.

Final Thoughts

Completing a crochet garment is one of the most rewarding experiences in the craft. When you hold up a finished daisy mesh crop top that you made with your own hands, stitch by stitch, it’s a feeling that never gets old. This pattern combines a classic mesh structure with the charming detail of the daisy motif to create something that’s both practical and beautiful.

Take your time, enjoy the process, and don’t be afraid to rip back and redo if something doesn’t look right. Every experienced crocheter will tell you that some of their best projects required at least one full restart — and that the restart is always worth it.

If you make this top, share your finished project online and tag it so others in the crochet community can see your beautiful work. Happy crocheting!