Granny Square Basketball Shorts Crochet Pattern – Two-Panel Design

There is something deeply satisfying about taking one of the most classic motifs in crochet and turning it into something unexpected. Granny squares have been around for generations, passed down through families and shared across crafting communities as symbols of creativity, color, and tradition. They belong on blankets and bags, cardigans and cushions — and now, they belong on basketball shorts. This two-panel design brings together the timeless appeal of the granny square with the relaxed, sporty silhouette of basketball shorts, creating a wearable piece that is equal parts nostalgic and fashion-forward.

Whether you are an experienced crocheter looking for your next project or an adventurous intermediate crafter ready to push your skills in a new direction, this pattern is designed to guide you through every step. By the end, you will have a pair of shorts that look like they came straight off a streetwear mood board — handmade with care, sized to your body, and completely one of a kind.

Why Granny Square Basketball Shorts Work So Well

Before diving into the pattern itself, it is worth understanding why this particular garment and this particular motif make such a natural pairing.

Basketball shorts are defined by their relaxed structure. They are wide-legged, easy to move in, and typically cut with a generous fit through the hip and thigh. This makes them an ideal candidate for crochet construction, because the fabric does not need to be skin-tight or highly elastic. A granny square, when made with a smooth DK or worsted weight yarn in a consistent tension, produces a fabric that has just enough drape and give to work beautifully as a wearable bottom garment.

The two-panel design is what makes this project accessible and structurally sound. Rather than trying to build shorts in the round from the waist down, which can become complicated quickly, this design involves crocheting two separate panels — a front and a back — each composed of joined granny squares. The panels are then seamed together and finished with an elastic waistband casing and leg hems. This modular approach means you can build each panel at your own pace, adjust sizing easily, and even mix colors in a way that feels intentional rather than random.

The result is a garment that looks textured and handcrafted without looking unfinished. The open stitch structure of the traditional granny square creates a subtle lace-like quality that works well for warm-weather wear, while the overall grid pattern of joined squares gives the shorts a geometric, modern aesthetic.

Materials You Will Need

Getting the materials right is the foundation of any successful crochet project, and for a garment like this, it matters more than most.

For yarn, you want to choose a smooth, mercerized cotton or a cotton-blend that offers good stitch definition and a comfortable hand. Avoid overly fuzzy or textured yarns here, as they will obscure the granny square pattern. A DK weight cotton is ideal for lighter, breezier shorts. If you prefer a slightly more substantial fabric with more coverage, a light worsted cotton works equally well. Plan for approximately 600 to 900 yards total, depending on your size and color choices. If you are making a multicolor design, divide that yardage across however many colors you plan to use.

You will need a crochet hook sized to match your yarn — a 3.5mm or 4mm hook is typical for DK cotton, while a 4.5mm or 5mm hook suits worsted weight. Always refer to your yarn label and swatch first, because tension is everything in a garment like this.

Other materials include a blunt tapestry needle for weaving in ends and seaming, scissors, a length of wide elastic approximately 1.5 to 2 inches wide for the waistband, a safety pin to thread the elastic, stitch markers, and measuring tape. Having a flexible measuring tape is particularly important because you will take several body measurements to customize the fit.

Taking Your Measurements

This pattern is designed to be sized to your body rather than following a standard small, medium, or large chart. Crochet fabric behaves differently from woven or knit fabric, and because granny squares are made in fixed increments, the best approach is to calculate how many squares you need based on your measurements.

Measure your hips at the fullest point. For a comfortable, relaxed basketball shorts fit, add 4 to 6 inches of ease to that measurement. This is your target hip circumference.

Measure your inseam from crotch to desired hem length. Basketball shorts typically fall anywhere from mid-thigh to just below the knee — choose a length that suits your style.

Measure your rise, which is the distance from your crotch to your natural waist or wherever you plan to wear the waistband.

Write these measurements down. You will refer back to them throughout the pattern.

Making Your Granny Square

Before you build the panels, you need to settle on your granny square size. The pattern below produces a classic four-round granny square. Depending on your yarn weight and hook size, this square will typically measure between 4 and 5 inches across. Work a test square, block it lightly, and measure it. This measurement is your module size, and everything else in the pattern builds from it.

Foundation Ring: Make a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet), work 2 double crochets into the ring, chain 2, [work 3 double crochets into the ring, chain 2] three times, join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3. You now have four clusters of 3 double crochets separated by corner chain-2 spaces.

Round 2: Slip stitch into the corner chain-2 space, chain 3, work 2 double crochets in the same space, chain 2, work 3 double crochets in the same space (first corner made), chain 1, [work 3 double crochets, chain 2, work 3 double crochets in the next corner space, chain 1] three times, join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 3.

Round 3: Slip stitch into the corner chain-2 space, chain 3, work 2 double crochets in the same space, chain 2, work 3 double crochets in the same space, chain 1, work 3 double crochets in the chain-1 space on the side, chain 1, [work 3 double crochets, chain 2, work 3 double crochets in the next corner, chain 1, work 3 double crochets in the chain-1 side space, chain 1] three times, join.

Round 4: Slip stitch into the corner chain-2 space, chain 3, work 2 double crochets in the same space, chain 2, work 3 double crochets in the same space, [chain 1, work 3 double crochets in each chain-1 space across the side, chain 1, work 3 double crochets, chain 2, work 3 double crochets in the corner space] three times, chain 1, work 3 double crochets in each remaining chain-1 space, chain 1, join.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Block the square by lightly wetting it, pinning it to your blocking mat at the corners, and allowing it to dry flat.

Calculating How Many Squares You Need

Divide your target hip circumference (with ease) by your square’s finished width. This gives you the number of squares needed to go around the full circumference. Since this is a two-panel design, each panel is half of that number wide.

For the length of each panel, divide your total shorts length (rise plus inseam, roughly) by your square’s finished height. This gives you the number of rows of squares needed.

For example, if your target hip circumference is 48 inches and your square measures 4.5 inches, you need approximately 48 ÷ 4.5 = about 11 squares around the full circumference, or roughly 5 to 6 squares per panel in width. If your total shorts length is 18 inches, you need 18 ÷ 4.5 = 4 rows of squares per panel.

Round to whole numbers and adjust slightly toward a larger count if you are between sizes. A little extra ease is always preferable in shorts.

Joining Your Squares

There are several methods for joining granny squares, and each produces a slightly different look. For this pattern, the flat slip stitch join is recommended because it creates a clean, nearly invisible seam that allows the squares to lie flat and move with your body.

To join two squares, hold them with wrong sides facing each other. Insert your hook through the corresponding corner chain-2 spaces of both squares, draw up a loop, chain 1 to anchor, then slip stitch through each corresponding chain-1 space and double crochet stitch across the edge until you reach the other corner. This method joins the squares edge to edge as you work across the row.

Build your panels row by row. Join squares horizontally first to form strips, then join the strips vertically to form the full panel. Keep your tension consistent throughout the joining process to prevent puckering.

When both panels are complete, seam them together. With right sides facing, use the same flat slip stitch join to connect the side seams from waistband to leg opening on both the left and right sides. Then join the crotch seam, working carefully around the curve. If you are unfamiliar with shaping a crotch seam in crochet, a simple approach is to fold the joined side panels in half and seam the lower center front and center back together, then trim any excess length and reinforce with additional rows of single crochet if needed.

Adding the Waistband

The waistband is what transforms your joined panels into wearable shorts. A channel-style elastic waistband is the simplest and most effective approach for this design.

Starting at a side seam, join your yarn to the top edge of the shorts with a slip stitch. Work one round of single crochet evenly around the entire waistband edge. Then work 6 to 8 additional rounds of single crochet, keeping the stitch count consistent to form a smooth tube of fabric. On the final round, before fastening off, thread your elastic through the casing using a safety pin. Overlap the elastic ends by about an inch and sew them together securely. Then work the final round of single crochet over the elastic, closing the casing completely.

This creates a neat, elastic waistband that sits smoothly against your body without any complicated construction.

Finishing the Leg Openings

For the leg openings, join your yarn at the inner seam of one leg and work 2 to 3 rounds of single crochet evenly around the opening. This cleans up the edges and gives the shorts a polished, intentional finish. You can leave the hem flat or, if you prefer a slightly more decorative edge, work a final round of reverse single crochet for a subtle corded border.

Repeat on the other leg opening.

Weave in any remaining ends carefully, working them back through at least an inch of stitches in multiple directions so they stay secure through wear and washing.

Color Suggestions and Design Variations

One of the great joys of a granny square project is the opportunity to play with color. The most popular approach for this design is to work the first three rounds of each square in a single main color and use a contrasting color for the final round and the joining. This creates a cohesive, grid-like look where each square reads as a distinct unit.

For a more vibrant, maximalist look, try using a different color combination for every square. Keep the final round consistent across all squares to unify the design, and let the interior rounds vary freely. This creates a patchwork effect that looks intentional and exciting.

For a more minimal aesthetic, work all squares in a single color from start to finish and use the texture of the granny square pattern itself as the visual interest.

You can also experiment with the layout by rotating alternating squares 45 degrees so the corners point toward the seams rather than the hem. This creates a diamond grid effect across the panel and gives the shorts a completely different visual character.

Care and Wearing Instructions

Because this garment is made from cotton or a cotton blend, it is relatively easy to care for. Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water and lay flat to dry. Avoid putting crochet garments in the dryer, as heat can distort the stitches and cause the fabric to shrink unevenly.

When you first wear the shorts, they may feel slightly stiff if you used a tightly twisted cotton. After the first wash and gentle stretching during drying, the fabric will relax and drape much more naturally against your body.

A Note on Fit and Adjustments

Because this design is modular, adjusting the fit is more straightforward than with many garment patterns. If the shorts are too wide after joining, you can take in the side seams slightly using a whip stitch or slip stitch seam. If they are too narrow, you can add a strip of squares to each side panel or work a border of single crochet along the side edges before seaming.

If the length needs adjusting, you can add an additional row of squares at the hem before finishing the leg openings, or trim a row by leaving it off entirely.

This flexibility is one of the most appealing things about the two-panel granny square construction — it invites you to make the pattern your own rather than forcing you to conform to preset measurements.

Final Thoughts

Granny square basketball shorts are exactly the kind of project that reminds you why handmade clothing is so special. Every square you crochet is a small commitment — a few minutes of focused, satisfying work — and by the time you have joined dozens of those squares into a full garment, you have created something that carries real meaning alongside its visual appeal.

This two-panel design keeps the construction approachable without sacrificing the final result. The squares are straightforward to make, the joining method is clean and satisfying, and the finishing steps are simple enough to complete in an evening or two. What you end up with is a garment that no one else in the world has, built with your hands from a pattern that has been reimagined for modern wear.

Make them in the colors of your favorite team, in pastels for summer, in deep jewel tones for fall — make them exactly as this pattern describes or let them evolve as you work. Either way, you will wear them with pride, knowing that you took something traditional and made it entirely your own.