One Shoulder Crochet Top Pattern | Terracotta & Moss Green Hand-Dyed Yarn

There is something about picking up a skein of hand-dyed yarn that makes a project feel different before you have even cast on your first stitch. The weight of it in your hands, the way the color shifts when you turn it toward the light, the faint irregularities that remind you someone painted that fiber by hand — it transforms what might otherwise be a simple crochet top into something you will genuinely want to wear over and over again. That is exactly the feeling I wanted to capture when I designed this one shoulder crochet top, worked in a pairing of terracotta and moss green hand-dyed yarn that feels warm, earthy, and surprisingly versatile.

This pattern is written for intermediate crochet makers. If you are comfortable working in rows, reading a simple written pattern, and have tried basic shaping like increases and decreases, you will feel right at home here. I will walk you through every section in detail, from yarn selection and gauge all the way through assembly and finishing, so even if you are on the more confident beginner end of the spectrum, you should be able to follow along without getting lost.

Let’s talk about what makes this top special before we get into the numbers.

Why Hand-Dyed Yarn Makes This Pattern Shine

Most crochet tops are designed with commercial yarn in mind, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Commercial yarn is consistent, widely available, and comes in a staggering range of colors. But when you substitute hand-dyed yarn into a garment pattern — particularly one with relatively simple stitch structure — the yarn itself becomes the star of the show.

Terracotta and moss green are a color pairing that has been quietly having a moment for a while now, and honestly, I do not see it going anywhere. Terracotta is earthy without being muddy, warm without being orange, and hand-dyeing gives it a depth that commercial colorways rarely achieve. You will find the color moving between dusty red, burnt sienna, and pale brick depending on the light, and that movement is what makes it feel alive on the body.

Moss green is its perfect companion. Where terracotta is warm and ruddy, moss green is cool and shadowed, almost like a forest floor in autumn. The two colors together feel grounded, like something you might find in a natural landscape where the two simply coexist.

For this top, I worked the main body in terracotta and used the moss green as an accent along the single shoulder strap, the neckline edge, and the hem. The result is a garment that reads as a warm neutral at a distance but reveals its earthy complexity up close.

Materials and Tools

Before you begin, gather everything you need. There is nothing more frustrating than getting halfway through a project and realizing you are short on yarn or missing a hook.

Yarn: You will need approximately 350 to 400 yards of fingering weight or DK weight hand-dyed yarn in your main color (terracotta), and approximately 80 to 100 yards in your accent color (moss green). The yardage is estimated for a finished size medium. Adjust up for larger sizes. I used a single-ply DK weight from a small-batch dyer, which gave the fabric a beautiful drape without being too floppy. If you go with a fingering weight, your top will be slightly more delicate and lightweight, which is gorgeous for warm weather.

Hook: US size G (4.0mm) crochet hook. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up half a size to a G/4.25mm or H/5.0mm. Your gauge swatch will tell you which direction to go.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and a few locking stitch markers to hold live stitches open during shaping.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in the main stitch pattern (half double crochet) after blocking. Gauge matters significantly in a wearable garment. A few stitches off over four inches translates to several inches of difference in the final circumference of the body. Please swatch and block your swatch before starting.

Sizing and Finished Measurements

This pattern is written in five sizes.

Size XS fits a 30 to 32 inch bust and finishes at approximately 28 inches in circumference (with 2 to 4 inches of negative ease, which gives the top its fitted look).

Size S fits a 32 to 34 inch bust and finishes at approximately 30 inches in circumference.

Size M fits a 34 to 36 inch bust and finishes at approximately 32 inches in circumference.

Size L fits a 36 to 38 inch bust and finishes at approximately 34 inches in circumference.

Size XL fits a 38 to 40 inch bust and finishes at approximately 36 inches in circumference.

The body length from the underarm to the hem is 12 inches for all sizes. The top features a straight, cropped hem that sits just above the natural waist, though you can add additional rows at the end to lengthen it if you prefer a longer look. The one shoulder strap measures approximately 2.5 inches wide and 10 to 12 inches long, adjustable based on your torso length and where you want it to sit.

A Note on the Stitch Pattern

The main fabric of this top is worked in half double crochet through the back loop only (hdc BLO). This is a technique that sounds small but makes an enormous difference. Working through the back loop only creates a subtle horizontal ridge on the right side of the fabric that gives the finished piece a slightly textured, woven appearance. It also adds a tiny bit of structure to the fabric without making it stiff, which is ideal for a form-fitting top.

The edging along the neckline, armhole, and hem is worked in single crochet using the moss green accent yarn. I chose a simple single crochet edge rather than anything more elaborate because I wanted the color to do the talking rather than the stitch texture. A picot edge or shell stitch would also look beautiful if you want something more decorative.

The Pattern

Foundation Chain and Setup Row

Using your terracotta yarn and a G hook, chain 73 (81, 89, 97, 105). The stitch count at the end of each row should be 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) stitches.

Row 1 (Wrong Side): Hdc in the third chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn. — 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts.

Row 2 (Right Side): Chain 2, hdc BLO across. Turn.

Row 2 is your pattern row. Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures 12 inches from the foundation chain, or to your desired length. The chain 2 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch throughout this pattern. This matters for your stitch count — always work your first hdc into the first stitch of the previous row, not into the turning chain.

Once your body panel measures 12 inches, do not fasten off. You are going to begin shaping the top edge.

Shaping the Neckline and Asymmetric Top Edge

This is where the one-shoulder design takes shape. The top edge of the body panel is shaped asymmetrically — one side rises into the shoulder strap while the other side steps down into a straight horizontal edge that sits below the opposite shoulder.

Left Side (Strap Side):

On the next right-side row, work across 30 (34, 38, 42, 46) stitches only. Turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.

Continue working in pattern (hdc BLO) across these 30 (34, 38, 42, 46) stitches for 4 more rows. This creates a slight raised section on the strap side that gives the top its asymmetric neckline.

Then begin decreasing for the strap as follows:

Decrease Row 1: Chain 2, hdc2tog BLO, hdc BLO across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog BLO. Turn. — 2 sts decreased.

Repeat this decrease row every other row 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) more times until you have 20 (24, 26, 30, 32) stitches remaining. This narrowed section will become your shoulder strap.

Continue working straight (no decreases) in pattern on these stitches for 10 (10, 11, 11, 12) inches, or until the strap is long enough to reach from your strap-side shoulder, behind your neck, and back down. You will seam or join this strap later.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Right Side (Open Shoulder Side):

Rejoin your terracotta yarn to the unworked stitches at the center of the top edge. Work a decrease row as follows: Chain 2, hdc2tog BLO, hdc BLO across to end. Turn. — 1 st decreased.

Work 3 more straight rows across these stitches. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Back Panel

The back panel is worked identically to the front, with one exception: instead of the asymmetric one-shoulder shaping, the back top edge is worked straight all the way across.

Using terracotta yarn, chain 73 (81, 89, 97, 105). Work in pattern (hdc BLO) until the back panel measures 12 inches from the foundation, just as with the front.

At 12 inches, work one final straight row across all stitches, then fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Assembly

Lay both panels right sides together and align the side edges. Using your yarn needle and the tails you left, seam the two side edges together using a whipstitch or mattress stitch. Leave the top edges open for now.

Once both side seams are sewn, try the top on or hold it up to your body (or a dress form if you have one) and identify which top edge is the front. The asymmetric shaping should be clearly visible — the raised strap section rises up on one side.

Bring the shoulder strap over the top of the shoulder, across the back of the neck, and down to the back panel. Pin the end of the strap to the upper edge of the back panel on the same side as the strap, aligning it with where it sits naturally on your shoulder. Seam the strap to the back panel edge using a whipstitch, weaving in the end securely when you are finished.

The open shoulder side should have a clean horizontal edge at the top of both the front and back panels. These two edges can be seamed together at the underarm for a small distance — approximately 1 to 1.5 inches — if you want a slightly more structured armhole on that side, or left open for a more flowy, draped look.

Edging with Moss Green

This is the step that brings the whole piece to life. The moss green edging ties together the neckline, the armhole, and the hem into a cohesive design and makes the color relationship between the two yarns explicit.

Neckline and Strap Edge: Join moss green yarn at the base of the neckline on the front panel. Work a row of single crochet evenly around the entire neckline opening and along both long edges of the shoulder strap. When you reach the back of the strap, join with a slip stitch to close the round if you prefer a clean finish, or simply turn and work back along the other side of the strap. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Open Armhole Edge (if applicable): Join moss green yarn at the underarm of the open shoulder side. Work a single crochet edge around the armhole opening, spacing your stitches evenly so the edge lies flat without pulling or ruffling. This typically means working about 3 stitches for every 2 rows along vertical edges. Fasten off.

Hem Edge: Join moss green yarn at one of the side seams along the bottom edge of the top. Work a single crochet round evenly around the entire hem, join with a slip stitch, then fasten off. If you want a slightly more finished look, work a second round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) in moss green. It adds a beautiful, corded edge that wears extremely well.

Blocking and Finishing

Block this top before you wear it. I know, I know — blocking feels like the homework portion of crochet. But it makes a significant difference in the drape and fit of a hand-dyed yarn garment. Hand-dyed yarns, especially those dyed with natural or semi-natural dyes, can have a slight stiffness right off the skein that relaxes beautifully in a bath.

Wet block by soaking the finished top in cool water for about 20 minutes, gently squeezing (never wringing) out the excess water, and laying it flat on a blocking mat. Pin it out to your target measurements. The slight negative ease means you want to block it to the finished circumference measurement listed in the pattern, not stretched out. Allow it to dry completely — ideally overnight.

After blocking, weave in any remaining ends and give the top a final look. Check all your seams and edging to make sure everything is tidy and secure.

Styling the Terracotta and Moss Green Top

One of the questions I get most often about garment patterns is how to actually wear the finished piece, so I always like to include a few thoughts on styling.

This top pairs beautifully with high-waisted wide-leg trousers in linen or a similar natural fabric. The earthy color palette leans into a relaxed, bohemian-adjacent aesthetic that feels very current without trying too hard. A pair of simple gold hoops and strappy sandals complete the look without competing with the yarn’s texture and color.

For cooler days, layer the top over a fitted long-sleeve shirt in off-white or warm cream. The moss green edging picks up beautifully against lighter colors underneath, and the open shoulder design means you can style it asymmetrically or layer it symmetrically depending on your mood.

The top also photographs beautifully. If you share your make on social media, natural light is your best friend — it will capture all those subtle shifts in the hand-dyed color in a way that indoor lighting rarely does.

Customization Ideas

This pattern is a solid foundation that invites customization. A few directions you might consider:

If you want more coverage, work the front and back panels a few inches longer before beginning the top shaping, or add a few more inches of strap length. This can move the hem from cropped to true waist-length with minimal adjustment.

If you prefer a more fitted silhouette, add a few decrease rows at the waist section (around inches 4 through 7 of the body length) and then work increase rows back out to the original stitch count toward the hem. This creates a subtle hourglass shape that is flattering on a lot of body types.

For a completely different color feel, try reversing the main and accent colors — a moss green body with terracotta edging has a cooler, more forest-like quality that is equally stunning.

And if hand-dyed yarn is outside your budget right now, a semi-solid commercial yarn in a similar colorway will absolutely work. Look for anything in the warm brick or dusty rose family paired with an olive or sage green.

Final Thoughts

Designing this one shoulder top was genuinely one of the more enjoyable projects I have worked on recently. There is something about the simplicity of the stitch structure combined with the richness of hand-dyed yarn that makes the whole process feel meditative and the result feel considered. The asymmetric strap adds just enough visual interest to make it a conversation piece without demanding complicated construction.

I hope you make it your own. Whether you follow the pattern exactly as written or use it as a starting point for something entirely different, the goal is always a finished piece you are proud to wear — something that captures a little of that hand-dyed magic in every stitch.

If you make this top, I would love to see it. Tag your project and let the community see what your colorway looks like, because every hand-dyed skein tells a slightly different story, and your version is going to be uniquely yours.

Happy crocheting.