Crochet Mini Shorts Tutorial: Part 1 — Getting Started (Free Pattern)
If you’ve been scrolling through crochet content lately, chances are you’ve seen the cutest little crochet shorts popping up everywhere — on summer outfits, beach cover-ups, and festival looks. And if you’ve been wondering whether you could make your own, the answer is a resounding yes. This tutorial is going to walk you through everything you need to know to crochet your very own mini shorts from scratch, completely free. Whether you’re a confident beginner or someone who has been crocheting for years and wants a fun new project, this pattern is designed to be approachable, customizable, and seriously satisfying to complete.
This is Part 1 of the tutorial, where we’ll cover all the foundational work: materials, gauge, sizing, the initial chain, and the first several rounds of the waistband and hip section. Part 2 will pick up where we leave off and take you all the way through the leg openings, finishing, and optional embellishments. So grab your hook and your favorite yarn, and let’s dive in.
Why Crochet Mini Shorts?
Before we get into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why this project is so worth your time. Crochet shorts have become one of the most popular summer crochet projects for a reason. They’re wearable art — something you made with your own hands that you can actually put on your body and walk out the door in. They work beautifully as a swimsuit cover-up over a bikini, as loungewear around the house, or even styled with a fitted top for a boho festival outfit.
Beyond the fashion aspect, shorts are a fantastic intermediate project because they teach you how to work in the round, how to increase for shaping, how to create a crotch seam, and how to customize fit — all skills that open up a world of future garment projects. Once you know how to make shorts, you’re well on your way to making skirts, pants, bodysuits, and more.
And of course, this pattern is completely free. No need to pay for a pattern when you’ve got everything you need right here.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials together before you start is always a good idea. Nothing slows down creative momentum like realizing mid-project that you don’t have enough yarn. Here’s what you’ll need for this project:
Yarn: The yarn you choose will have a huge impact on the look and drape of your finished shorts. For a more structured, opaque short, a cotton yarn or cotton blend works beautifully. Cotton has great stitch definition, which means your stitches will look crisp and clean, and it’s also breathable, which matters when you’re wearing something against your skin in warm weather. If you want a more open, beachy, see-through look (great for wearing over a swimsuit), a lightweight ribbon yarn or thin cotton twine gives gorgeous results. For a beginner, I recommend starting with a medium-weight cotton yarn in a light color so your stitches are easy to see.
Hook Size: You’ll want a 4.5mm or 5.0mm crochet hook for a medium-weight yarn. If you’re working with a thinner yarn, drop down to a 3.5mm or 4.0mm hook. Always check your gauge swatch before starting — more on that in a moment.
Measuring Tape: You’ll be measuring your hips, waist, and inseam to customize the sizing, so a flexible measuring tape is essential.
Stitch Markers: These are incredibly helpful for marking the beginning of each round and for keeping track of increase points. If you don’t have stitch markers, a piece of scrap yarn in a contrasting color works just as well.
Scissors and a Yarn Needle: For weaving in ends at the finish.
Optional: Elastic for the waistband (about ¾ inch wide), if you want extra security and stretch.
Understanding Gauge
Gauge is the part of any crochet pattern that beginners often want to skip, but I promise you it matters enormously for garments. Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows fit into a given measurement, and if your gauge doesn’t match the pattern, your finished shorts will end up too big, too small, or just oddly shaped.
For this pattern, the target gauge is approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet, using a 5.0mm hook and medium-weight cotton yarn.
To check your gauge, crochet a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 6 inches tall. Don’t skip the border rows — they’ll pull in your edges and give you a more accurate reading. Lay your swatch flat without stretching it, and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches across the middle of the swatch, and how many rows fit in 4 inches going vertically.
If you have more stitches per 4 inches than the pattern calls for, your tension is tight and you should go up a hook size. If you have fewer stitches, your tension is loose and you should go down a hook size. This is completely normal and has nothing to do with your skill level — every crocheter has a different natural tension.
Sizing Guide
One of the best things about crocheting your own clothing is that you can make it fit your body perfectly instead of hoping a store-bought item works for you. This pattern is written for multiple sizes, and the instructions will tell you which numbers to use for each size as we go.
To find your size, you’ll need two measurements: your hip circumference (measured at the fullest part of your hips and seat) and your waist circumference (measured at your natural waist, which is the narrowest part of your torso).
Here’s a general size chart for reference:
Size XS: Hips 32–34 inches, Waist 24–26 inches
Size S: Hips 35–37 inches, Waist 27–29 inches
Size M: Hips 38–40 inches, Waist 30–32 inches
Size L: Hips 41–43 inches, Waist 33–35 inches
Size XL: Hips 44–46 inches, Waist 36–38 inches
Throughout this pattern, instructions will be written for size S first, with other sizes in parentheses in the order XS, M, L, XL — for example, chain 80 (76, 84, 88, 92). If your measurements fall between sizes, I generally recommend going up a size for bottoms since you want comfortable ease around the hips.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
Let’s go over the stitches and abbreviations you’ll see in this pattern. If you already know these, feel free to skip ahead.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
inc — increase (two stitches worked into the same stitch)
dec — decrease (two stitches worked together into one)
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
The main body of the shorts is worked in half double crochet (hdc), which gives a nice stretchy, fabric-like texture that’s great for a wearable garment. The waistband is worked in single crochet through the back loop only (sc BLO), which creates that beautiful ribbed effect you see on the waistbands of so many crochet garments.
The Construction Method
These shorts are worked from the waist down. We’ll start by making the waistband as a flat rectangle, then seam it into a tube, and from there we’ll pick up stitches along the edge of the waistband to begin working the body of the shorts in the round. This method gives you a very clean, professional-looking waistband that lies flat and looks intentional.
The body of the shorts is worked as one tube from the waist down to the hip. Once we reach the crotch point, we’ll divide the work into front and back panels, work each side flat, and then seam the crotch. This gives the shorts their proper shape with a seated fit that actually works for a real body.
In Part 2, we’ll pick up stitches around each leg opening to add a finished edge, and we’ll talk about optional additions like a drawstring tie, lace edging, or fringe.
Let’s Start Crocheting: The Waistband
The waistband is the foundation of the entire garment, so we want to get it right. We’re going to work it as a long, flat strip of ribbing in single crochet through the back loop only.
Starting Chain: Chain 13 (13, 13, 15, 15). This will be the width of your waistband — approximately 2.5 to 3 inches.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc across. You’ll have 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) stitches. Chain 1, turn.
Row 2: Working in BLO, sc across all stitches. Chain 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your waistband strip measures the following length: 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) inches, or your waist measurement minus 1 inch for negative ease. The ribbing will stretch, so don’t be tempted to make it longer than your waist measurement.
When your waistband strip is long enough, do not fasten off. Instead, fold it so the two short ends meet, and slip stitch them together to form a tube. Make sure the strip isn’t twisted before you seam it. Now fasten off and weave in your ends.
Picking Up Stitches for the Body
Now that your waistband tube is made, it’s time to start building the body of the shorts. This is where the project really starts to take shape.
Hold your waistband tube with the seam at the back. You’re going to pick up stitches along one of the long edges — this will be the bottom edge of the waistband, and it’s where the body of the shorts will grow downward.
Join your yarn to the top of the seam with a slip stitch. From here, we’ll be working in the round.
Round 1: Chain 2 (this counts as your first hdc). Work 1 hdc into each row-end stitch along the entire edge of the waistband. When you get back to the start, join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain 2. Place a stitch marker here to mark the beginning of your round.
Your stitch count at this point should be approximately 80 (76, 84, 88, 92) stitches. If your count is slightly different due to gauge variations, that’s okay — you can adjust by working an increase or decrease evenly spaced in the next round.
Round 2: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of ch 2.
Round 3: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of ch 2.
Repeat Round 2 (even rounds with no shaping) for a total of 4 rounds after your pickup round. These straight rounds form the waist section of the shorts just below the waistband.
Shaping the Hips
Now it’s time to start the hip shaping. This is where the shorts transform from a simple tube into something that actually follows the curve of a body, and it’s one of the most satisfying parts of the construction process.
We’re going to add increases evenly spaced around the shorts to create that gentle flare from waist to hip. The increases are placed at four points: roughly at the sides, front center, and back center.
Increase Round 1: Chain 2. Work the following: hdc in the next 18 (17, 20, 21, 22) stitches, then work 2 hdc into the next stitch (this is your increase). Repeat this from the asterisk 3 more times. Hdc in any remaining stitches to the end of the round. Join with sl st to top of ch 2. You have added 4 stitches to your total.
Work 2 even rounds (no increases), following the same pattern as Round 2.
Increase Round 2: Chain 2. Hdc in the next 19 (18, 21, 22, 23) stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch. Repeat 3 more times. Work remaining stitches evenly and join.
Work 2 even rounds.
Increase Round 3: Chain 2. Hdc in the next 20 (19, 22, 23, 24) stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch. Repeat 3 more times. Work remaining stitches evenly and join.
Work 2 even rounds.
At this point you should have 92 (88, 96, 100, 104) stitches, and your shorts should measure roughly 4 to 5 inches long from the top of the waistband pick-up row. This is a good moment to try the tube on (carefully, without stretching it aggressively) and check the fit around your hips.
If you need more length before reaching the crotch divide — for example, if you have a longer torso or want a higher-rise fit — simply work additional even rounds until the piece reaches your desired length from natural waist to crotch.
Checking Your Progress
Before we move forward, let’s do a quick check-in. Lay your work flat on a table and measure from the top of the picked-up stitches (not the waistband) to the working edge. For mini shorts, you’ll typically want the body section to be about 5 to 6 inches before the crotch divide, but this is flexible depending on how high-rise you want the finished shorts to be.
Also check that your hip section looks even — the increases should create four subtle vertical lines of shaping rather than lumpy bulges. If things look uneven, don’t panic. Sometimes it helps to pin the work flat, look at it from a distance, and compare one side to the other. Small variations are completely normal and often disappear once the garment is seamed and finished.
This is also the moment to confirm you love your yarn choice and gauge. If you realize now that the fabric feels too stiff or too loose, it’s much easier to restart than to continue all the way through and be unhappy with the result.
What’s Coming in Part 2
You’re doing an amazing job so far. In Part 1, you’ve built the entire foundation of your crochet mini shorts — the waistband, the body tube, and the hip shaping. That’s the hardest conceptual work of the whole pattern. Everything that comes next builds on what you’ve already done.
In Part 2, we’ll tackle the crotch divide, where we split the tube into a front and back panel and work each one flat for a few rows before seaming them together at the center. We’ll also work the leg openings with a clean finished edge, talk through how to add a drawstring or tie for adjustable fit, and go over some optional decorative finishes like a ruffle leg hem, shell stitch border, or fringe.
If you’ve made it through Part 1 and you’re feeling good about your project, drop a comment below and let me know what color you’re working in — I love seeing what everyone creates. And if you share your progress on social media, use the hashtag so the crochet community can cheer you on.
Save this post so you can find it easily when you’re ready to continue, and keep your work-in-progress in a project bag so those stitches don’t slip off the hook between sessions. Part 2 will be posted soon, and I can’t wait to help you finish these shorts and see you wearing something you made entirely by hand.
Happy crocheting!
