Crochet Peplum Top Pattern | Tie Strap Cami Tutorial (PDF Download)

There is something undeniably satisfying about crocheting a garment that looks like it came straight from a boutique. The crochet peplum top is exactly that kind of project — feminine, flattering, and surprisingly wearable for everything from a beach day to a summer dinner out. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter or someone who has recently graduated from scarves and dishcloths, this tie strap cami tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to create a beautiful, fitted peplum top that you will actually want to wear all season long.

This post covers the complete pattern, tips for sizing adjustments, yarn recommendations, stitch breakdowns, and finishing details. A PDF download version of this pattern is also available so you can take it to your couch, your craft room, or your favorite coffee shop without having to keep a browser tab open.

What Is a Peplum Top and Why Crochet One?

A peplum top is defined by a short flare or ruffle that extends from the waistline. This design detail has been a fashion staple for decades because it is incredibly flattering on most body types — it cinches at the narrowest part of the torso and adds volume at the hip, creating an hourglass silhouette whether you naturally have one or not.

When you translate this silhouette into crochet, magic happens. The stitch structure of crochet naturally lends itself to flared hems, open textures, and stretchy fits, making it one of the best craft forms for garment construction. A crocheted peplum top has a beautiful drape, a handmade quality that no fast-fashion piece can replicate, and the personal satisfaction of saying “I made this” every time someone compliments it.

The tie strap design in this tutorial adds an extra layer of charm. Adjustable ties mean you can customize the fit across the chest and shoulders, and they give the finished top that effortlessly boho look that photographs beautifully and feels even better in person.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on a single stitch, gather everything you need so the process flows smoothly from start to finish.

Yarn: For this pattern, a lightweight cotton or cotton-blend yarn is ideal. You want something with good stitch definition so the texture of your work is visible, and cotton provides the breathability you need for a summer top. Suggested weight is DK or light worsted (Category 3). You will need approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size. Good options include Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, or Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK.

Hook: A 4.0 mm (G/6) or 4.5 mm (7) crochet hook works well with DK weight cotton. Always check your gauge before starting — with garments, gauge matters more than almost any other project type.

Additional supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and a few locking stitch markers to hold your place as you work in the round.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet. Swatch before you begin and adjust your hook size up or down until you match this gauge.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written to fit the following chest measurements. Read through the sizing notes carefully before you begin, because adjustments are easiest to make at the very start of construction.

Extra Small fits a 30–32 inch chest. Small fits a 32–34 inch chest. Medium fits a 34–36 inch chest. Large fits a 36–38 inch chest. Extra Large fits a 38–40 inch chest. 2X fits a 40–42 inch chest.

The pattern is designed with approximately 2 inches of positive ease, meaning the finished garment will be slightly larger than your actual measurements. This ease gives the top a relaxed, comfortable fit without being boxy. If you prefer a more fitted look, size down one. If you like things a little more flowy, size up one.

Stitch Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used. If you are newer to crochet, take a moment to practice any stitches you are unfamiliar with on a small swatch before diving into the full pattern.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc2tog — half double crochet two together (decrease)
hdc-inc — two half double crochets in the same stitch (increase)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
RS — right side
WS — wrong side

Pattern Notes

This top is worked in the round from the top down, beginning at the upper chest and working toward the waistband. The peplum is worked separately from the bottom edge of the bodice and joined with a slip stitch seam. The tie straps are crocheted as long chains and sewn or worked directly into the top of the bodice.

Working top-down means you can try the garment on as you go, which is one of the best advantages of this construction method. If you find the bodice is too long or too short before you reach the waist, you can adjust the row count before moving on to the peplum section.

The pattern uses a mostly half double crochet stitch throughout the bodice, which gives a slightly denser, stretchier fabric than double crochet. This is intentional — for a fitted top, you want some structure and stretch without the fabric being too open or lacy.

The Pattern: Step by Step

Foundation — Upper Bodice Band

Begin by creating the chest band that will sit just below the bust line. This is a rectangle worked flat and then seamed to create a tube.

Chain 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112) for your size, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in the second chain from hook, hdc across. Turn. (71, 79, 87, 95, 103, 111 hdc)

Rows 2–6: Ch 1, hdc in each stitch across. Turn.

After row 6, fold the piece so that the short ends meet and slip stitch them together to form a tube. This creates your chest band. The seam will sit at one side of the top and will be hidden under the arm.

Bodice Construction

Once your band is seamed, you will work in joined rounds from the top of the band downward.

Round 1: Join yarn to the top edge of the band at the seam. Ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around the top edge. Join with sl st to first sc. (71, 79, 87, 95, 103, 111 sts)

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch throughout), hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first hdc.

Repeat Round 2 for 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) more rounds.

At this point, try the piece on if possible or measure against your body. The bodice should sit comfortably from just below the bust to approximately your natural waist or slightly above, depending on your preference.

Waistband

The waistband creates a gentle cinch that defines the peplum silhouette. It is worked in the back loop only to create a visible ridge that mimics a ribbed or gathered waistband.

Round 1 (Decrease Round): Ch 1, work [sc, sc, sc2tog] around. Join. (approx 53, 60, 65, 71, 77, 84 sts depending on your size — adjust to the nearest multiple of 4)

Rounds 2–4: Ch 1, sc BLO in each stitch around. Join with sl st.

Round 5 (Increase Round): Ch 1, work [sc, sc, sc-inc] around. Join. (This brings you back to approximately your original stitch count.)

The waistband section creates a natural pinch in the silhouette without being binding. The BLO rounds add a horizontal stripe texture that reads as a defined waistband visually.

Peplum Skirt

This is the section that transforms the top from a simple cami into a peplum style. The flare is achieved through regular increase rounds worked in double crochet, which creates both the height and the volume of the peplum.

Round 1 (Foundation): After the waistband, ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Round 2 (First Increase Round): Ch 3, dc in the same stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, [2 dc in next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches] around. Join. (Approximately 25% increase in stitch count)

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in each stitch around. Join.

Round 4 (Second Increase Round): Ch 3, dc in the same stitch, dc in next 3 stitches, [2 dc in next stitch, dc in next 3 stitches] around. Join.

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in each stitch around. Join.

Round 6 (Third Increase Round): Ch 3, dc in the same stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, [2 dc in next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches] around. Join.

Rounds 7–8: Ch 3, dc in each stitch around. Join.

At the end of Round 8, you should have a beautiful, full flare that fans out naturally from the waist. The peplum should measure approximately 4–5 inches in length. If you prefer a longer peplum, add additional plain dc rounds between the increase rounds, or work an extra increase round with a 5-stitch spacing.

Peplum Edging

To finish the bottom edge of the peplum with a clean, decorative border, work the following round.

Final Round: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, working 3 sc into each corner or joining point if needed to keep the edge flat. Join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Alternatively, you can work a simple shell stitch edging for extra flair. To do this: [skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, sl st in next stitch] around. This gives a scalloped, romantic edge that looks especially beautiful in person and photographs like a dream.

Making the Tie Straps

The tie straps are one of the most satisfying parts of this pattern because they are so simple to make but have such a big impact on the finished look. You will make four straps total — two for the front and two for the back — or two extra-long straps that wrap around and tie at the shoulders.

Option A — Four Short Ties: Chain 60 for each strap. Starting in the second chain from hook, sc in each chain across. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for attaching.

Attach one strap to the front right top edge, one to the front left top edge, one to the back right, and one to the back left. Each front strap ties to its corresponding back strap over the shoulder. Adjust the tie length by adding or removing chains before you begin.

Option B — Two Long Ties: Chain 100 for each strap. Sc across. Fold each strap in half to find the center point and attach that center point to the top edge of the bodice, one on each side. The two ends of each strap will cross over the shoulder in an X at the back, or tie in a bow at the shoulder for a more playful look.

Both options are lovely. Option A creates a cleaner, more structured look. Option B is more romantic and adjustable, and it photographs particularly beautifully when the bow ties hang loosely.

Finishing and Blocking

Once all pieces are assembled and your ends are woven in, blocking your finished top will make an enormous difference in how it looks and wears. Cotton yarn responds especially well to wet blocking.

Soak the finished garment in cool water for 15–20 minutes until fully saturated. Gently press out the excess water without wringing or twisting the fabric. Lay the top flat on a blocking mat or a clean towel and use rust-proof pins to shape it to your desired measurements. Allow it to dry completely — this can take several hours to overnight depending on the humidity in your space.

After blocking, the stitches will even out, the fabric will have a softer drape, and the peplum will fan out more gracefully. It is one of those finishing steps that feels optional but is absolutely worth doing.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

Gauge is everything in garment making. If your gauge is off even slightly, the finished measurements can be several inches different from the intended size. Always swatch and block your swatch before measuring it.

When working in the round, use stitch markers at the beginning of each round so you always know where you are. This is especially helpful during the increase rounds of the peplum when the stitch count is changing every other round.

If you want a more textured bodice, try substituting the plain hdc rounds with a waffle stitch or a moss stitch. Both work beautifully in the same yarn weight and add visual interest without complicating the construction.

For a clean, professional finish on the straps, steam them lightly before attaching them. This flattens them out and removes any curling that can happen at the edges of a narrow crocheted piece.

If you are making this as a gift and do not have access to the recipient for try-ons, measure their chest and consult the sizing chart carefully. When in doubt, go one size up — it is much easier to add ties that pull the fabric in than to try to stretch a top that is too small.

PDF Download

The full pattern, including all sizes, a printable stitch guide, a visual reference photo, and a yardage calculator, is available as a PDF download. Having the PDF means you can print it out, keep it in your project bag, and annotate it as you go — which many crocheters find much easier than scrolling through a blog post mid-stitch. The PDF is formatted cleanly on letter-size paper and optimized for both printing and reading on a tablet.

To download your copy, click the download button on this page. The file will be delivered instantly and you can save it to any device.

More Summer Crochet You Might Love

If this peplum top has you excited about crocheting your wardrobe, you are in excellent company. Crochet garments have seen a massive resurgence in recent years, and with good reason — there is nothing quite like wearing something you made yourself. Once you finish this top, you might want to try a matching crochet skirt worked in the same yarn for a coordinated set, or a crochet bucket hat to complete the summer look.

Other popular patterns that pair well with this one include a crochet wrap cardigan, a lacy crochet shorts pattern, and a simple crochet tote bag that can be made in an afternoon. All of these projects use similar yarn weights and skill levels, so if you have mastered the peplum top, you are well on your way to a full handmade summer wardrobe.

Crochet garments are one of those things that seem intimidating until you start, and then suddenly feel completely manageable stitch by stitch. The peplum top is a genuinely wearable, genuinely beautiful pattern that rewards the time you put into it. Whether you are making it for yourself, as a gift, or as a photography prop, the finished result is something to be proud of. Grab your hook, pick a yarn you love, and enjoy every round.