Edgewater Tank Top: A Free Crochet Pattern for Your Summer Wardrobe
There’s something deeply satisfying about wearing something you made yourself, especially when that something is a breezy, stylish tank top that looks like it came straight off a boutique rack. The Edgewater Tank Top is exactly that kind of project — a relaxed, modern crochet top with just enough texture to make it interesting and just enough simplicity to make it approachable, even if you’re still building your garment-making confidence.
Whether you’re heading to the beach, layering over a swimsuit, or pairing it with high-waisted jeans for a casual summer outing, this top earns its place in your warm-weather rotation. In this post, you’ll find everything you need to make your own Edgewater Tank Top, including a full materials list, sizing guidance, stitch notes, and the complete pattern with step-by-step instructions.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
The Edgewater Tank Top is designed with wearability in mind. Unlike some crochet garments that end up too stiff or too heavy for hot weather, this top uses a lightweight cotton yarn and an airy stitch structure that lets your skin breathe. The silhouette is relaxed and slightly oversized, with a straight body and subtle ribbing at the hem and neckline that gives it a polished, intentional finish.
This is a top-down construction pattern, which means you start at the shoulders and work your way down to the hem. Many crocheters love this approach because you can try the piece on as you go and adjust the length to suit your preference — no guessing, no seaming, no second-guessing whether it’ll fit.
The texture comes from a simple combination of half double crochet stitches worked in the third loop, which creates a horizontal ribbed effect across the body of the top. It’s not complicated to execute, but it photographs beautifully and gives the finished garment that handmade-but-make-it-fashion quality that everyone loves.
Materials and Tools
Before you cast on, gather the following:
Yarn: Approximately 400–700 yards of DK weight (size 3) cotton or cotton-blend yarn, depending on your size. A smooth, mercerized cotton works especially well here because it has a slight sheen and holds its shape after washing. Suggested options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, WeCrochet CotLin, or Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK.
Hook: US Size G/4.5mm crochet hook, or the size needed to achieve gauge.
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers (at least 4), scissors, measuring tape.
Gauge: 16 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches in the main stitch pattern (hdc in third loop). Gauge is important for garments, so please swatch before you begin. Wash and block your swatch before measuring, since cotton can relax and grow slightly after its first wash.
Sizing Information
The Edgewater Tank Top is written in sizes XS through 3XL. The finished measurements below refer to the garment itself — choose your size based on your preferred ease rather than your body measurements alone. This top is designed to have 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it should be a little roomier than your actual bust measurement for a relaxed, comfortable fit.
Finished Bust Measurements:
XS: 32 inches
S: 36 inches
M: 40 inches
L: 44 inches
XL: 48 inches
2XL: 52 inches
3XL: 56 inches
Approximate Yardage:
XS: 400 yards
S: 450 yards
M: 500 yards
L: 550 yards
XL: 600 yards
2XL: 650 yards
3XL: 700 yards
Abbreviations and Stitch Key
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
hdc3L — half double crochet in the third loop only
inc — increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
dec — decrease (hdc2tog)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
rep — repeat
BLO — back loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
yo — yarn over
Third Loop: On a half double crochet, when you look at the top of the stitch, you typically see two loops (front and back). The third loop is the horizontal bar sitting at the back of the stitch, just below those two loops. Inserting your hook into this loop creates a ribbed, textured appearance.
Special Techniques
Half Double Crochet in the Third Loop (hdc3L): This is the primary texture stitch used throughout the body of the tank. To work it, insert your hook into the third loop (the one at the back of the stitch below the standard V), yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over again, and pull through all three loops on the hook. This is exactly the same motion as a regular hdc — the only difference is where your hook goes.
Foundation Chain Row: The pattern begins with a foundation chain that forms the top of the back panel. If you prefer, you can substitute a foundation half double crochet (fhdc) row instead, which eliminates the turning chain tension issues that some crocheters experience with cotton yarn.
Pattern Notes
This tank top is worked in two flat panels — a back panel and a front panel — and then seamed at the shoulders and sides. You’ll work the straps as a continuation of each panel and then join them at the shoulders using a simple slip stitch seam. This construction keeps things approachable and makes sizing adjustments easy.
All turning chains in this pattern count as a stitch unless stated otherwise. At the beginning of each row, chain 2 and turn. The first stitch is worked into the second stitch from the hook (skipping the stitch at the base of the turning chain).
If you’d prefer a seamless construction, you can work this pattern in the round after joining the shoulder seams, converting the row-by-row instructions to rounds. However, the flat construction is recommended for beginners to garment making.
The Pattern
Back Panel
Foundation Row: Chain 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114). Starting in the 3rd chain from the hook, hdc across. You should have 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts. Turn.
Rows 1–4: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn. (These rows use a standard hdc to create the ribbing at the bottom hem.)
Row 5 (Transition Row): Ch 2, hdc3L in each st across. Turn.
Rows 6 onward (Main Body): Continue working hdc3L in each st across until the piece measures 13 (13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15) inches from the foundation row, or your desired length to underarm. Turn at the end of each row.
Armhole Shaping:
Row 1: Sl st across the first 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts, ch 2, hdc3L across until 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts remain. Leave those remaining sts unworked. Turn. You now have 52 (60, 66, 74, 80, 88, 94) sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc3L2tog (decrease) over the first 2 sts, hdc3L across until 2 sts remain, hdc3L2tog. Turn. (50, 58, 64, 72, 78, 86, 92 sts)
Row 3: Rep Row 2. (48, 56, 62, 70, 76, 84, 90 sts)
For sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL: Rep Row 2 once more. (–, –, –, 68, 74, 82, 88 sts)
Continue working even in hdc3L until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 10) inches. Fasten off.
Front Panel
Work exactly as the back panel through the armhole shaping section. Once the armhole shaping is complete, continue working even until the armhole measures 5 (5.5, 6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7) inches.
Neckline Shaping:
On your next row, work across the first 15 (18, 20, 23, 25, 28, 30) sts. Turn. Leave the remaining sts on hold (you can slide them onto a stitch holder or a length of scrap yarn).
Work even on these shoulder sts for 3 more rows. Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn to the other side: Skip the center 18 (20, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts for the neckline opening, and work across the remaining 15 (18, 20, 23, 25, 28, 30) sts. Work even for 3 more rows. Fasten off.
Joining the Panels
Lay the front and back panels together with right sides facing. Using a yarn needle and mattress stitch, or a slip stitch seam if you prefer a more visible edge, seam the shoulders together. Then seam the sides, leaving the armhole openings free.
Straps (Optional)
If you’d like to add defined shoulder straps rather than relying entirely on the seamed shoulder join, work a row of single crochet around the top edges of both panels before seaming, and then create simple chains or worked crochet straps to your desired length.
A simple strap: With RS facing, join yarn at the shoulder edge of the front panel. Chain the desired strap length (approximately 10–14 chains, depending on your shoulder width). Join to the back panel with a slip stitch. Work sc back across the chain to create a double-thickness strap. Fasten off and repeat on the other side.
Finishing Edges
Neckline: With RS facing, join yarn at any point along the neckline. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the neckline, decreasing slightly at the inner corners of the V-shape if your design has one. Join with a sl st. Work 1 round of BLO sc for a subtle ribbed edge. Fasten off.
Armholes: Join yarn at the underarm seam. Work 1 round of sc evenly around each armhole opening. Join with a sl st. Work 1 additional round of sc. Fasten off.
Bottom Hem: If you’d like a more finished hem, work 2 rounds of BLO sc around the bottom edge. This reinforces the hem and ties it visually to the armhole and neckline edging.
Weave in all ends securely. Wet block your finished top by soaking it in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle detergent, pressing out the excess water gently in a towel, and then laying it flat to dry in your desired measurements. Cotton responds beautifully to blocking and this step makes a noticeable difference in how the finished top looks and drapes.
Tips for Getting a Great Fit
Garment crochet can feel intimidating at first, but a few simple habits make the process much smoother.
Always swatch, and wash your swatch. Cotton yarn in particular can shift after washing — sometimes it relaxes and grows, sometimes it tightens up depending on the construction. A washed and blocked swatch gives you an accurate gauge to work from and prevents the heartbreak of a finished top that doesn’t fit.
Try it on as you go. One of the best things about top-down construction is the ability to check fit in real time. After the armhole shaping, slip the piece over your head and check the depth of the armhole and the width across the back. Adjust before you continue rather than after.
Don’t be afraid to adjust row counts. If you want a longer top, simply keep working rows in the body before you begin the armhole shaping. If you prefer a crop length, start the shaping a few rows earlier. This pattern is very forgiving of that kind of customization.
Consider your yarn choice carefully. Stiff or scratchy cotton can feel uncomfortable against bare skin. Look for yarns labeled as “combed cotton” or “mercerized cotton,” which tend to have a softer, smoother hand. WeCrochet CotLin (a cotton-linen blend) is a popular choice because it combines the breathability of cotton with the slight structure of linen, making it ideal for garments.
Customization Ideas
The Edgewater Tank Top is a wonderful blank canvas. Here are a few ways to make it your own:
Color blocking works beautifully with this design. Use two or three coordinating colors and switch them up at a natural break point — at the armhole, halfway down the body, or even every few rows for a striped look.
Add a lace panel down the center front by working a simple shell stitch or V-stitch section in the middle of your front panel while keeping the sides in the regular hdc3L texture.
Make it a crop top by stopping the body about 4–5 inches shorter than written. This gives you a more fashion-forward silhouette that pairs perfectly with high-waisted bottoms.
Adjust the neckline. A wider, more open neckline is easy to achieve simply by increasing the number of center stitches you skip during the neckline shaping. For a boatneck style, skip more stitches. For a deeper V, work the neck shaping over more rows at a steeper angle.
Caring for Your Crochet Tank Top
Cotton and cotton-blend garments are generally easy to care for, but a little attention goes a long way in keeping your handmade piece looking its best.
Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool or cold water. Avoid hot water, which can cause cotton to shrink or lose its shape. Lay flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer — heat is not a friend to handmade crochet, and laying flat prevents the seams and stitches from distorting under the weight of a wet garment.
If your top develops any pilling, a small fabric shaver can remove it without damaging the crochet structure.
Store your tank top folded rather than hung, since even lightweight garments can stretch out at the shoulders when hung for extended periods.
A Few Final Thoughts
The Edgewater Tank Top is the kind of pattern that grows with you as a crocheter. The first time you make it, you’ll be focused on following the steps and getting the fit right. By the second or third time, you’ll be making it in a weekend while chatting with friends or half-watching a show, swapping in different yarns and colors with the confidence that comes from already knowing how the construction works.
There’s a particular joy in making your own clothes — in looking down at something you’re wearing and knowing exactly how it came together, stitch by stitch, row by row. The Edgewater Tank Top is a great reminder that functional, wearable fashion is well within reach of any crocheter who’s ready to give garment making a try.
If you make this pattern, I’d love to see it! Share your finished tops and tag them with #EdgewaterTankTop so the community can admire your work. Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below, and happy stitching!
