Easy Crochet Shorts Pattern: FREE Crochet Pattern XS–XXL

Whether you’re just getting comfortable with a crochet hook or you’ve been crocheting for years, making your own shorts is one of those projects that feels incredibly satisfying. You create something wearable, customizable, and honestly pretty adorable — all from a ball of yarn and a bit of your time. This free crochet shorts pattern walks you through every step, from the waistband down to the leg openings, and it’s sized from XS all the way to XXL so that everyone can make a pair that fits beautifully.

These crochet shorts work up faster than you might expect. The stitch pattern is simple enough for beginners but interesting enough to keep experienced crocheters engaged. The result is a relaxed, bohemian-style pair of shorts that you can wear as a swimsuit cover-up, loungewear, a beach layer, or even dressed up with a flowy top and sandals. Let’s dive in.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

There are a few things that make this pattern stand out from others you might find online. First, it’s truly beginner-friendly. The primary stitches used are chains, single crochets, and half double crochets — nothing that requires years of practice to master. Second, this pattern is written with a full size range in mind. So many free patterns top out at a large, leaving plus-size crocheters to do all the math themselves. This one includes detailed stitch counts for XS through XXL so you can cast on with confidence.

Beyond that, this design is worked in two flat panels (a front and a back) that are seamed together, which makes it easy to try on as you go and adjust the fit if needed. A simple crochet waistband finishes everything off and includes a drawstring channel so you can cinch or loosen the fit to your exact comfort level.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything on this list so you’re not interrupting your flow mid-row.

Yarn: Approximately 200–450 yards of worsted weight yarn (Category 4), depending on your size. Cotton or a cotton blend is highly recommended for shorts since it breathes well, holds its shape, and is comfortable against skin. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or Paintbox Cotton Aran are all excellent choices.

Hook: US Size J (6.0 mm) or whatever size gives you the correct gauge. Crochet hook sizing can vary between brands, so always check your gauge.

Additional supplies: Stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a length of ribbon or cording (about 60–70 inches) for the drawstring, and a measuring tape.

Gauge

Getting your gauge right is more important for wearables than for items like blankets or dishcloths. If your gauge is off, your shorts could come out too big or too small even if you follow the stitch counts exactly.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet (hdc)

To check your gauge, crochet a swatch of at least 20 stitches wide and 15 rows tall, then block it lightly and measure. If your swatch is larger than the target measurement, try a smaller hook. If it’s smaller, go up a hook size.

Sizing Information

This pattern is written for six sizes. The finished measurements below refer to the hip circumference of the finished garment. These shorts are designed with a relaxed, slightly loose fit — about 2–4 inches of ease at the hips. Choose your size based on your actual hip measurement plus your preferred ease.

XS: Hip 30–32 inches / Finished hip: 34 inches
S: Hip 33–35 inches / Finished hip: 37 inches
M: Hip 36–38 inches / Finished hip: 40 inches
L: Hip 39–41 inches / Finished hip: 43 inches
XL: Hip 42–44 inches / Finished hip: 46 inches
XXL: Hip 45–48 inches / Finished hip: 50 inches

Inseam length as written: approximately 4 inches. You can easily add or subtract rows to lengthen or shorten the inseam to your preference — each row adds roughly half an inch.

Abbreviations

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
beg — beginning
rem — remaining
yo — yarn over
t-ch — turning chain

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked flat in two panels: a front panel and a back panel. The back panel is worked identically to the front panel in this version, though you are welcome to add extra rows to the back for more coverage. Once both panels are complete, you seam the sides and the short crotch seam, then add the waistband. The leg openings are finished with a simple single crochet border.

Throughout this pattern, the turning chain does NOT count as a stitch unless otherwise noted. This creates cleaner edges for seaming.

When working the waistband, you will fold it in half to create a channel for your drawstring. A slip stitch seam closes the waistband and forms the tunnel.

All stitch counts in parentheses at the end of a row refer to the total stitch count for that row.

The Pattern

Front Panel

Foundation Chain:
Chain the following number of stitches based on your size:

XS: ch 61
S: ch 67
M: ch 73
L: ch 79
XL: ch 85
XXL: ch 91

Row 1 (RS): Starting in the second ch from the hook, hdc across. Turn.
(XS: 60 sts / S: 66 sts / M: 72 sts / L: 78 sts / XL: 84 sts / XXL: 90 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your panel measures 9 inches from the foundation chain, or your desired total length minus 1 inch for the waistband. End after completing a WS row.

At the 9-inch mark, you should have approximately 22–24 rows depending on your tension.

Crotch Shaping:

The crotch shaping is what separates the two leg openings. This is the section where you will split the panel into two halves and work each side separately.

Identify the center of your work. For all sizes, mark the center stitch or the center two stitches with a stitch marker.

Right Leg Side:

Row 1 of crotch shaping: Ch 1, hdc across until you reach 2 stitches before the center marker. Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Turn.
(XS: 28 sts / S: 31 sts / M: 34 sts / L: 37 sts / XL: 40 sts / XXL: 43 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, skip the first stitch (decrease made), hdc to end. Turn. (1 stitch decreased)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc to last 2 stitches, skip next stitch, hdc in last stitch. Turn. (1 stitch decreased)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 one more time. You should have decreased a total of 4 stitches from your right leg half.
(XS: 24 sts / S: 27 sts / M: 30 sts / L: 33 sts / XL: 36 sts / XXL: 39 sts)

Work even (no increases or decreases) in hdc for 3 more rows. Fasten off.

Left Leg Side:

Return to your work and rejoin yarn at the center, skipping the center 4 stitches.

Row 1 of crotch shaping: Ch 1, hdc across to the end of the row. Turn.
(XS: 28 sts / S: 31 sts / M: 34 sts / L: 37 sts / XL: 40 sts / XXL: 43 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc to last 2 stitches, skip next stitch, hdc in last stitch. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, skip first stitch, hdc to end. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 one more time.
(XS: 24 sts / S: 27 sts / M: 30 sts / L: 33 sts / XL: 36 sts / XXL: 39 sts)

Work even in hdc for 3 more rows. Fasten off.

Back Panel

Work the back panel exactly as the front panel. If you prefer more coverage in the back, simply work 2–4 extra rows before beginning the crotch shaping. This adds length to the back rise without affecting the fit anywhere else.

Assembling the Shorts

Lay your front and back panels flat with right sides facing each other. Line up the edges carefully.

Side seams: Using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch or mattress stitch up each side from the bottom leg opening to the top (waistband edge). Secure and weave in your ends.

Crotch seam: With right sides still facing, match the crotch shaping sections of the front and back panels and seam them together from the bottom of the crotch shaping up through the center. This is the short seam running between the legs. Secure and weave in ends.

Turn your shorts right side out and try them on to check the fit. You can adjust at this stage if needed before adding the waistband.

Waistband

The waistband is worked directly across the top opening of the shorts. It’s a simple folded band that creates a drawstring channel.

With RS facing and starting at a side seam, join yarn to the top of the shorts.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire top opening. When you reach the end, sl st to join. Do not turn.

Aim for a stitch count that is a multiple of 2 for the cleanest waistband. Adjust by 1 or 2 stitches if needed.

Rounds 2–8: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to join. Do not turn. (7 rounds total)

After Round 8, fold the waistband in half toward the inside of the shorts so the fold edge meets the original Round 1 joining round. Using a tapestry needle, whipstitch the live stitches of Round 8 to the inside of the waistband, leaving a 2-inch gap at one side seam for inserting the drawstring. Weave in all ends.

Drawstring: Cut a length of ribbon, cording, or make a crochet cord (ch approximately 130–150, sl st back along the chain) and thread it through the waistband channel. Knot or add beads to each end to keep it from pulling through. Tie the drawstring in a bow at the front center.

Leg Opening Finish

A simple border around each leg opening gives the shorts a polished look and prevents the edges from curling.

Join yarn at the inseam of one leg opening. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire leg opening. Sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second leg.

If you prefer a slightly ruffled leg edge, work a second round into the single crochets from Round 1 as follows: sl st in first st, ch 3, skip 1 st, sl st in next st repeat around. This creates a delicate looped border.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own crochet shorts is that you are in complete control of the final look. Here are a few ways to make this pattern your own.

Add length: Work additional rows before the crotch shaping to create longer shorts or even crochet bermuda-length bottoms. Each 2 rows adds approximately 1 inch of length.

Textured stitch variation: Substitute the half double crochet rows with a simple v-stitch or shell stitch pattern for a more open, lacy look. This works especially well for beach cover-up shorts layered over a swimsuit.

Color blocking: Work the first several rows in one color, then switch to a contrasting color for the remainder. You could also add a single stripe in a bold color near the hem for a sporty feel.

Pockets: Who doesn’t love pockets? Crochet two small rectangles approximately 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall, then seam them to the inside front panels before joining the side seams. Instant pockets.

Waistband alternatives: Instead of a folded drawstring waistband, you can thread 1-inch elastic directly through a single row of waistband stitches for an even simpler finish. Or skip the waistband entirely and attach a wide knit fold-over elastic using your sewing machine or by hand.

Yarn Yardage Guide by Size

Here’s a rough estimate of how much yarn you’ll need for each size. These estimates assume worsted weight cotton at the gauge listed above and include a small buffer for the waistband and finishing.

XS: approximately 200–225 yards
S: approximately 230–260 yards
M: approximately 265–300 yards
L: approximately 305–345 yards
XL: approximately 350–395 yards
XXL: approximately 400–450 yards

If you’re adding extra length, picking up an additional skein is always wise. Most worsted weight cottons come in 180–200 yard skeins, so plan accordingly.

Care Instructions

Cotton crochet shorts are wonderfully easy to care for. Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle and lay flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, as heat can cause cotton to shrink and may distort the stitches over time. If your shorts stretch out a bit with wear (as cotton tends to do), a cool hand wash and flat drying will help them snap back into shape.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

My shorts are too wide at the hips. This is usually a gauge issue — your stitches are coming out larger than the pattern intends. Try swatching again with a hook one size smaller.

My shorts are too narrow. Go up a hook size and re-swatch until your gauge matches.

The crotch doesn’t fit well. If the rise feels too short, add more rows before beginning the crotch shaping. If the crotch feels too wide or the leg openings gape, work an additional round of single crochet around the leg openings, pulling them in slightly.

The waistband rolls. Make sure you’re working into the back loop of each stitch in the waistband for a cleaner, flatter result.

My side seams are visible. Practice the mattress stitch for an almost invisible seam on crochet panels. Work slowly, pulling each stitch snugly but not so tight that the seam puckers.

A Note on Fit and Ease

These shorts are designed with comfort in mind. The ease built into each size means they should fit without being tight across the hips or thighs. However, everyone’s body is different, and crochet fabric behaves differently depending on the fiber content and your individual tension.

If you’re between sizes, sizing up is almost always the better choice for shorts — you can always adjust the drawstring for a snugger waist fit. It’s much harder to add length or width to an already-finished piece than to cinch in a slightly roomy one.

Final Thoughts

Making your own crochet shorts is genuinely one of those projects that makes you feel like a creative powerhouse. You start with a skein of cotton yarn and end up with an actual garment that fits your body and reflects your style. Whether you keep them simple and classic or load them up with color and texture, this easy crochet shorts pattern gives you a solid foundation to build on.

Save this pattern, pin it, share it with your crochet friends, and tag your finished shorts — there’s nothing quite like seeing all the beautiful variations that come to life when creative people get their hooks into a good pattern. Happy crocheting!