Free Crochet Lace Top Pattern (XS–XXL) + Video Tutorial
If you’ve been searching for a stunning, wearable crochet lace top that actually fits your body — whether you’re an XS or an XXL — you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This free pattern comes with full written instructions, stitch notes, sizing guidance across six sizes, and a step-by-step video tutorial to walk you through every section. Whether you’re heading to a summer festival, a beach vacation, or just want a breezy layering piece for everyday wear, this lace top is going to become one of your favorite makes.
Let’s dive in.
Why You’ll Love This Crochet Lace Top
Crochet lace tops have had a serious fashion moment, and honestly, they’re not going anywhere. The open, airy structure makes them perfect for warm weather, and because lace crochet drapes so beautifully, the finished piece looks far more elevated than you might expect from a free pattern.
This particular design was created with real bodies in mind. Too many crochet patterns cap out at a large or an XL, which leaves a huge portion of the crafting community without options. This pattern runs from XS all the way through XXL with full, tested instructions for each size — not just the add-two-stitches-and-figure-it-out approach that can leave you frustrated mid-project.
Here’s what makes this top special: the stitch pattern is a repeating lace mesh that creates a gorgeous lattice effect, but it’s built on a foundation that’s easy to memorize after the first few rows. Once you get the rhythm, it becomes meditative and surprisingly fast to work up. The body is rectangular with minimal shaping, which keeps the construction accessible for confident beginners, while the lace stitch itself gives experienced crocheters something beautiful to sink into.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you cast on — or rather, before you make your foundation chain — let’s talk materials. Having everything ready before you start saves you from mid-project frustration.
Yarn: You’ll want a fingering weight or lightweight DK yarn for the most delicate, drapey result. Cotton, cotton-linen blends, or bamboo-cotton yarns are especially lovely for lace tops because they have a natural drape, breathability, and a slight sheen that makes the lace pattern pop. Avoid anything too fuzzy or textured, since hairy yarns will obscure the lace holes and swallow all that hard work.
Some wonderful yarn choices include Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in DK, Drops Paris, or if you want something a bit finer, Scheepjes Catona or any fingering weight cotton. For a more luxurious option, a silk-cotton blend will give your top a genuinely beautiful drape and subtle shine.
Yardage by size:
XS — approximately 600 yards
S — approximately 700 yards
M — approximately 820 yards
L — approximately 950 yards
XL — approximately 1,100 yards
XXL — approximately 1,250 yards
Hook: A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook works beautifully with fingering weight cotton. If you’re using a DK weight, try a 4.0mm (US G/6) hook. Always swatch first and adjust according to your gauge.
Notions: You’ll need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (at least four), and a measuring tape. If you plan to block your finished piece (highly recommended for lace), you’ll also want blocking mats and rust-proof pins.
Gauge
Gauge matters in garment construction, and it matters especially here because lace patterns can be quite variable depending on your tension. Please do not skip this step.
Working in the lace mesh pattern described below:
18 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in lace mesh pattern after blocking, using a 3.5mm hook with fingering weight yarn.
If your swatch is too small (stitches too tight), go up a hook size. If your swatch is too large (stitches too loose), go down a hook size. Block your swatch before measuring, since cotton especially relaxes and opens up significantly after washing and pinning.
Sizing and Finished Measurements
This top is designed with approximately 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it’s meant to be a little relaxed and flowy — perfect for a lace design.
Finished bust measurement (including ease):
XS — 34 inches
S — 37 inches
M — 40 inches
L — 44 inches
XL — 48 inches
XXL — 52 inches
Finished length (hem to shoulder):
XS/S — 22 inches
M/L — 23 inches
XL/XXL — 24 inches
To choose your size, measure your bust at its fullest point, then pick the size closest to that measurement or the next size up if you prefer a very relaxed fit.
Abbreviations and Stitch Notes
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
sk — skip
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Lace Mesh Stitch (worked flat, for the body panels):
Foundation row: After your foundation chain, dc in the 6th chain from the hook, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next ch, rep from across, turn.
Row 1 (and all following rows): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), turn, dc in next dc, ch 2, rep from across, ending dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.
This mesh creates a simple, elegant lattice. Repeat Row 1 until the piece reaches the desired length. That’s genuinely it — once you have the rhythm, you can work this stitch while watching your favorite show.
Pattern Instructions
Front and Back Panels (Make 2)
This top is constructed as two flat rectangles that are seamed at the shoulders and sides, leaving armhole openings. The simplicity of this construction is intentional — it means you can adjust the length and width easily, and the seaming creates clean, structured lines.
Foundation Chain by Size:
XS — ch 78
S — ch 84
M — ch 93
L — ch 102
XL — ch 111
XXL — ch 120
Note: All foundation chains are a multiple of 3 plus 3.
Work your foundation chain and set-up row as described in the Lace Mesh Stitch section above. Continue working in lace mesh until the piece measures:
XS/S — 22 inches from the foundation row
M/L — 23 inches
XL/XXL — 24 inches
Fasten off and weave in ends. Make two identical panels.
Shoulder Seams
Lay both panels flat with right sides together. Using a yarn needle and a length of your project yarn, seam the top edge of each panel together at the shoulders, leaving the center open for the neck. The neck opening should be:
XS/S — 8 inches
M/L — 9 inches
XL/XXL — 10 inches
This means you’ll seam approximately the outer 3–4 inches on each side of the top edge, creating two shoulder seams with a neck opening in the center. Use a whip stitch or a mattress stitch, whichever gives you a cleaner result with your chosen yarn.
Side Seams and Armholes
With right sides together, seam the side edges of the front and back panels, starting from the hem and working upward. Leave the top portion open for armholes:
XS/S — leave 7 inches open for armhole
M/L — leave 7.5 inches open for armhole
XL/XXL — leave 8 inches open for armhole
So for an XS, you would seam upward from the hem until you have 7 inches remaining before the shoulder seam, then stop. That 7-inch gap becomes your armhole opening. Repeat on the other side.
Armhole Edging
Join yarn to the corner of the armhole opening with a slip stitch. Work 1 round of single crochet evenly around the entire armhole opening, placing single crochets into the sides of the lace rows. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc, then slip stitch to close. Fasten off.
This creates a clean, polished armhole edge and prevents the lace from stretching out over time. If you prefer a more decorative edge, you can work a simple shell edging instead: sc into the corner, sk 2 sts, work 5 dc into the next st, sk 2 sts, sc into next st, rep from around the armhole, join and fasten off.
Neckline Edging
Join yarn to the back right shoulder seam. Work 1 round of single crochet around the entire neckline opening, including across the top of both panels and through both shoulder seam junctions. Join with a slip stitch.
For a simple, clean neckline: fasten off after the single crochet round.
For a slightly decorative neckline: work one additional round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) after the first sc round. This creates a lovely twisted cord effect along the neckline that frames the lace beautifully.
Hem Edging
Join yarn to the hem edge of either side seam. Work 1 round of single crochet along the entire bottom hem of the top. Join with a slip stitch. Fasten off.
As with the neckline, you can add a reverse sc round here for extra polish.
Blocking Your Finished Top
Blocking is arguably the single most transformative step in finishing a lace garment, and it’s especially important here. Before blocking, your lace mesh may look a little tight and uneven. After blocking, those stitches open up, the mesh evens out beautifully, and the whole piece takes on a professional, finished look.
To block your top:
Fill a clean sink or basin with cool or lukewarm water. Submerge the top fully and gently squeeze the water through the fabric — don’t wring or twist. Let it soak for about 10–15 minutes to fully saturate.
Lift the top carefully from the water, support its full weight with your hands (wet cotton is heavy and will stretch if you grab it from one point), and gently press out excess water by rolling it in a clean towel.
Lay the top flat on blocking mats and pin it to your finished measurements, gently stretching and opening the lace mesh as you go. Use rust-proof pins every 1–2 inches along all the edges to keep the shape consistent.
Allow to dry completely before removing the pins. This can take 12–24 hours depending on your climate and yarn weight.
Once dry, your top should look like a completely different garment — open, even, and absolutely gorgeous.
Video Tutorial
If you’re more of a visual learner — and with lace patterns, many crocheters are — the accompanying video tutorial walks you through every step of this pattern in real time. The video covers setting up your foundation chain and first row of lace mesh, maintaining consistent tension throughout the mesh stitch, working all four edgings including the decorative neckline option, seaming the shoulder and side seams neatly, and blocking the finished piece for a polished result.
The tutorial is paced for confident beginners through intermediate crocheters. If you’ve made at least a few crochet projects before and you’re comfortable with double crochet, chains, and basic joining, you’re ready for this one.
Watch the video tutorial here: [insert video link]
Timestamps are provided in the video description so you can jump directly to the section you need, whether you’re starting fresh or just checking back in on a specific technique.
Tips for Success
A few things that will make your experience smoother from start to finish:
Work a proper gauge swatch and block it before you begin. This single step is the difference between a top that fits beautifully and one that ends up too small or too large.
Use stitch markers to mark the center of your foundation chain before you start. This helps you keep track of your repeat and catch mistakes early.
The lace mesh is worked with a turning chain of 5. Make sure you’re treating that turning chain as your first dc plus ch-2, and ending each row with a dc in the 3rd stitch of the previous row’s turning chain. If you find yourself losing or gaining stitches, this is almost always where the culprit lives.
Don’t pull your yarn tightly. Lace crochets better with a relaxed hand. The holes need room to breathe.
If you’re a loose crocheter, try going down a hook size before your gauge swatch. If you crochet tightly, go up a hook size. Neither tendency is wrong — it just means finding the right tool for the way you naturally work.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about a simple lace mesh construction is how adaptable it is. Once you understand the basic framework, you can make this top uniquely yours.
You can add length to either the body or the armholes if you prefer a longer, tunic-style fit. Simply continue working rows of lace mesh until you reach your preferred length.
You can also experiment with the neckline by working a boat neck versus a narrower opening, or by adding a simple picot edging instead of the reverse sc round for an even lacier finish.
For a more structured silhouette, consider working a ribbing section at the hem using a tighter stitch like moss stitch or a simple sc ribbing worked in a thinner yarn. This draws in the hem slightly and gives the top more shape.
Colorways are entirely up to you. This pattern looks stunning in classic ivory or white, but deep teal, dusty terracotta, olive green, and soft blush all create completely different moods with the exact same stitches.
Yarn Substitution Guide
If you can’t find the specific yarns mentioned earlier, look for any yarn with these qualities: smooth texture with minimal fuzz, natural fiber content (cotton, linen, bamboo, or silk blends work best), DK or fingering weight, and good stitch definition. Check the yarn’s gauge on the label and compare it to the gauge listed in this pattern to see if a direct substitution will work, then always confirm with a swatch.
Avoid acrylic for this particular project if possible. Acrylic can work in lace crochet, but it doesn’t drape the same way as natural fibers, it doesn’t block as well, and it tends to feel less breathable in a warm-weather garment. If cost is a concern, look for acrylic-cotton blends, which give you the affordable price point while still offering some of the drape and breathability you want.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make this top as a beginner? If you can work double crochet, chains, and basic joining, you have the skills this pattern requires. The lace mesh is repetitive and quick to learn. Watch the video tutorial before you start and you’ll feel confident going in.
Can I use a different weight yarn? Yes, with adjustments. If you go up to a worsted weight, your finished top will be heavier and the lace holes will be larger. You’ll need to recalculate your foundation chain based on your gauge. Going lighter than fingering weight (to a lace weight) will create a more delicate, sheer piece but will require more yardage and a much smaller hook.
How do I wash the finished top? Hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent, then re-block flat to dry. Do not put it in the dryer. With cotton, machine washing on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag is often fine, but always check the care instructions for your specific yarn.
Can I sell items made from this pattern? Yes! This is a free pattern offered for personal and small-scale commercial use. If you sell finished tops made from this design, a credit to the pattern source is always appreciated.
Final Thoughts
There is something genuinely satisfying about wearing something you made with your own hands — and a crochet lace top is one of those makes that looks like it came from a boutique rather than from your living room floor with a cup of tea and a crochet hook. This pattern was designed to be beautiful, wearable, and accessible, and the full size range from XS to XXL means it’s truly for everyone.
If you make this top, share it — tag your finished object on Instagram or Pinterest with the hashtag #crochetlacetop so others can find inspiration from your work. Seeing what colors and yarn choices the community makes is one of the best parts of sharing a free pattern.
Happy crocheting, and enjoy every stitch.
