Crocheted Top with Open Fan Stitch: Pattern and Instructions

If you’ve been searching for a summer crochet project that combines elegance with breathability, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. The open fan stitch crocheted top is one of those timeless pieces that never goes out of style — it’s lightweight, beautiful, and surprisingly versatile. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or someone who has recently caught the fiber arts bug, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create a stunning top from scratch, complete with stitch explanations, pattern structure, sizing tips, and finishing advice.

Let’s dive into the world of lace crochet, where each fan becomes a window of air and texture.

Why the Open Fan Stitch Is Perfect for a Summer Top

Before we get into the pattern itself, it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate why the open fan stitch is such a beloved choice for garments. The stitch creates an airy, lattice-like fabric that allows air to circulate — which is exactly what you want when the temperature climbs. Unlike solid stitches like single crochet or moss stitch, the fan stitch leaves deliberate gaps between clusters of double crochets, giving the fabric that characteristic open, almost floral texture.

From a design perspective, the fan stitch has a natural elegance. Each fan spreads outward from a central chain space, creating a rhythmic pattern that pleases the eye without requiring constant counting or complicated yarn-overs. Once you’ve worked a few rows and internalized the repeat, your hands begin to move almost automatically, and the fabric grows in a way that feels genuinely satisfying.

From a practical standpoint, the open construction of the stitch means you can use almost any fingering, sport, or DK-weight cotton or bamboo yarn and still get a drape that flows nicely over the body. This makes it one of the more forgiving stitch patterns for garment making, particularly for those who are still getting comfortable with fitting and shaping.

Materials You Will Need

To make a crocheted top with open fan stitch, you’ll want to gather the following before you begin:

Yarn: Choose a smooth, plant-based yarn for best results. Cotton, bamboo-cotton blend, or linen-cotton blend in fingering or DK weight work beautifully. Aim for approximately 400–600 meters of yarn for a small/medium size, and 600–800 meters for a medium/large. Light colors show the stitch definition most clearly, but any solid or very subtle variegated color will work well.

Hook: For fingering weight yarn, use a 3.0mm–3.5mm hook. For DK weight, use a 4.0mm–4.5mm hook. Always prioritize the gauge that gives you the drape you like over strict adherence to a size recommendation.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers (at least 4–6), a tape measure, and small scissors.

Gauge: With DK weight cotton and a 4.0mm hook, aim for approximately 18 stitches and 10 rows per 10cm in the fan pattern. Swatching is genuinely important for garment projects — even a half-centimeter difference per 10cm can translate into several centimeters of difference across a full body width.

Understanding the Open Fan Stitch

The open fan stitch is a shell-based stitch that works a cluster of double crochets (or trebles, depending on your tradition) into a single stitch or chain space, then skips several stitches before working the next fan. Between fans, one or more chain stitches create the open “windows” that give the pattern its lacy character.

Here is the basic fan stitch pattern worked over a foundation that is a multiple of 12 chains plus 3 turning chains.

The Basic Fan (worked into a chain space): 5 double crochets into the same stitch or space. This creates the spread of the fan.

The Basic Repeat:

• Row 1 (Foundation): Chain a multiple of 12 plus 3. Single crochet into the 4th chain from the hook. Chain 2, skip 2 chains, single crochet into the next chain. Repeat from the beginning across the row, ending with a single crochet. Turn.
• Row 2 (Fan Row): Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet). Work 2 double crochets into the first chain-2 space. Chain 2. Work 5 double crochets into the next chain-2 space. Chain 2. Repeat across, ending with 3 double crochets into the final space. Turn.
• Row 3 (Connector Row): Chain 1. Single crochet into the first double crochet. Chain 2. Skip 2 stitches. Single crochet into the next stitch. Repeat across, working a single crochet into the top of the turning chain at the end. Turn.

Rows 2 and 3 form the main stitch repeat. Once you’ve worked them a few times, the rhythm becomes very natural.

For the open trellis version of the fan stitch — which gives a slightly more elongated and transparent look — you can substitute treble crochets for double crochets in Row 2. This creates a taller fan with more pronounced openwork, which is particularly striking in finer yarns.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written for four sizes: XS/S (bust 80–88cm), S/M (bust 88–96cm), M/L (bust 96–104cm), and L/XL (bust 104–112cm). The top is designed with approximately 5–8cm of positive ease, meaning it will fit loosely and comfortably. If you prefer a more fitted look, size down; if you want a relaxed, oversized silhouette, size up.

Finished bust measurements after blocking: XS/S approximately 86cm, S/M approximately 94cm, M/L approximately 102cm, L/XL approximately 110cm.

Length from shoulder to hem (standard): approximately 50–54cm depending on the size. This can easily be adjusted by working more or fewer rows in the body section.

The Pattern: Step by Step

Starting the Front Panel

The top is worked in two flat panels — a front and a back — which are then seamed at the shoulders and sides. This construction method makes it very easy to try the piece on as you go and adjust the fit.

Foundation Chain for the Front Panel:

For XS/S, chain 75. For S/M, chain 87. For M/L, chain 99. For L/XL, chain 111. All foundation chains are a multiple of 12 plus 3.

Row 1: Single crochet into the 4th chain from the hook. (Chain 2, skip 2 chains, single crochet into the next chain) across. Turn. You should have a series of evenly spaced chain-2 arches.

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet throughout). Work 2 double crochets into the first chain-2 space. (Chain 2, work 5 double crochets into the next chain-2 space) across, ending with 3 double crochets into the final space. Turn.

Row 3: Chain 1. Single crochet into the first double crochet. (Chain 2, skip 2 stitches, single crochet into the next stitch) across, placing the final single crochet into the top of the turning chain. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the front panel measures approximately 28–30cm from the foundation chain, ending with a Row 3. This completes the lower body section.

Shaping the Armholes

At this point, you will begin to reduce the width of the panel to shape the armholes. Because the fan stitch works in fixed repeats, armhole shaping is done by simply leaving a set number of pattern repeats unworked at each end.

For all sizes, slip stitch across the first 12 stitches at the start of the next fan row, then work the fan pattern across until 12 stitches remain before the end of the row. Leave those final 12 stitches unworked. Turn.

Continue working the fan and connector rows across the reduced number of stitches for approximately 18–20cm (this is the armhole depth). This brings you to the shoulder level.

For a deeper armhole — ideal if you plan to add sleeves later or if you have a broader shoulder — extend this section to 22cm. For a shallower armhole suited to a cropped or bralette-style top, shorten to 15cm.

Shaping the Neckline

For a simple boat neck or wide scooped neckline, continue working straight across all stitches until the armhole section is complete, then leave the center stitches unworked and finish each shoulder separately.

For a V-neck, at the midpoint of the armhole depth, identify the center stitch of your panel. Work each side separately from this point, decreasing one stitch every other row at the neck edge until 2–3 pattern repeats remain for each shoulder strap. Fasten off after completing the required armhole depth.

For a rounded neckline, work to the center of the panel, then slip stitch across the center 3 pattern repeats (these will form the neck opening), attach yarn to the opposite side, and work each shoulder separately for the remaining rows.

Working the Back Panel

The back panel is worked exactly like the front panel up to and including the armhole shaping. For the back neckline, most people prefer a slightly higher finish. Instead of shaping a deep neckline, simply work straight across all stitches through the full armhole depth, leaving a wider band of fabric at the back. Fasten off each shoulder section after the final row.

Assembling the Top

Once both panels are complete and lightly blocked (see below), lay them flat with right sides facing each other. Using a yarn needle and a length of your working yarn, seam the shoulder sections together using a mattress stitch or a flat slip-stitch seam. The seam should span approximately 8–10cm from each outer shoulder edge, leaving the center open for the neckline.

Next, seam the side sections. Starting from the hem, work upward along each side, stopping when you reach the base of the armhole shaping. Leave the armhole openings free. If you wish to add short sleeves later, you can pick up stitches around the armhole edge; otherwise, a simple single crochet border worked around the armhole gives a clean, finished edge.

Finishing Touches

Blocking

Blocking transforms a crocheted garment. For cotton or bamboo yarn, wet blocking gives the best results. Submerge the completed top in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing, then lay it flat on a blocking mat and pin to your target measurements. Allow to dry completely before removing the pins. You will notice the fan stitches open up beautifully, the fabric softens, and the overall drape becomes much more fluid and wearable.

Edging

A simple single crochet border worked around the hem, armholes, and neckline gives the top a polished finish. Work one round of single crochet, then one round of reverse single crochet (also called the crab stitch) for a firm, decorative edge. Alternatively, a shell edging along the hem echoes the fan motif in the body of the garment and adds a lovely cohesive detail.

Optional Embellishments

If you’d like to personalize your top, consider adding a few rows of a contrasting color at the hem or neckline, or working the edging in a complementary shade. Small button closures at the shoulders are both functional and charming if you’re working a pullover version that you’d like to be able to remove more easily. A ribbon threaded through the chain spaces at the waist can create a gathered effect and add definition to the silhouette.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

The biggest favor you can do yourself on any garment project is to swatch — not just for gauge, but to see how the yarn and stitch interact. The open fan stitch in particular can look very different in a soft drapey yarn versus a crisp structured cotton. Try working a 20cm x 20cm swatch and blocking it before committing to the full project.

Tension consistency matters more in lace-style stitches than in solid stitches, because any uneven tension will be visible in the chain spaces. If you notice your chain-2 arches are tighter than your fan clusters, try going up a half hook size for the connector rows only.

When seaming, use a stitch that matches the openwork character of the fabric. A traditional mattress stitch worked through the outermost post of each stitch creates a nearly invisible seam that doesn’t interrupt the pattern.

If you’re new to garment construction, the two-panel method used in this pattern is a very forgiving starting point. Because you’re working flat and can measure against your body or a well-fitting existing top at any point, you don’t need to commit to complex shaping calculations upfront.

Finally, don’t underestimate the value of blocking at the halfway point as well as at the end. Blocking the individual panels before seaming makes it much easier to match the edges cleanly and work out any pulling or uneven tension before it’s incorporated into the finished garment.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how naturally it lends itself to customization. Here are a few directions you might take it:

You could work the entire top in the round rather than flat, joining at the side edges and working upward continuously. This eliminates side seams entirely and creates a seamless tube that many people find more comfortable to wear.

For a cropped version, simply stop the body section 10–12cm earlier than the standard length. This works beautifully as a beach cover-up worn over a swimsuit, or as a layering piece over a fitted camisole.

Adding short sleeves is as simple as picking up stitches around the armhole opening and working downward for 8–10cm in the fan pattern. A simple cuff of single crochet or ribbing closes the sleeve neatly.

For a more structured look, you can work the lower body in a solid stitch like half double crochet for the first 10cm and then transition into the fan pattern for the upper portion. This grounds the garment visually and gives you a bit more coverage and opacity at the waist.

A Note on Yarn Substitution

The pattern is written in a yarn-agnostic way, which means you have a great deal of freedom in your material choice. That said, there are a few guiding principles worth keeping in mind. Plant-based fibers — cotton, bamboo, linen, hemp — are generally better choices for summer tops than wool or acrylic, because they breathe, absorb moisture, and feel comfortable against the skin in warm weather. They also tend to block beautifully, which really opens up the fan stitch to its full potential.

If you do choose a wool or wool-blend yarn, opt for a superwash treated variety and size up slightly on your hook, as wool tends to have more spring and can close up the openwork if worked at a tight tension. A merino-bamboo blend is a particularly lovely middle ground for transitional weather.

Whatever yarn you choose, check the care instructions before you begin. A top that requires hand-washing every time isn’t for everyone, and knowing this upfront will help you decide whether to invest in a machine-washable yarn or commit to the extra care routine.

Final Thoughts

The crocheted top with open fan stitch is one of those projects that rewards patience with genuinely beautiful results. From the meditative rhythm of the fan rows to the satisfying moment you slip the finished garment over your head for the first time, this is a make that stays with you — both in the wearing and in the memory of creating it.

If this is your first crocheted garment, be patient with yourself through the fitting and shaping sections. Every body is different, and a pattern is really just a starting point. Measure as you go, trust your instincts about fit, and don’t be afraid to add a few extra rows or reduce an armhole if it suits your body better. Crochet is endlessly adjustable right up until the last stitch is fastened off.

And when it’s done — blocked, seamed, and finished — wear it proudly. You made that.