Ziva Mohair Mesh Top — Free Crochet Tutorial

There is something quietly magical about mohair. The way it halos, the way it catches light, the way it makes even the simplest stitch pattern look like something you spent weeks designing — it is one of those fibers that does a lot of the heavy lifting for you, and the crochet world has been absolutely obsessed with it lately. If you have been scrolling through Instagram or Pinterest and kept landing on those dreamy, floaty mesh tops in soft, fuzzy yarn, you already know exactly what I am talking about. Today I want to walk you through my Ziva Mohair Mesh Top, a free crochet pattern that has quickly become one of my absolute favorites to make and to wear.

This pattern is beginner-friendly enough that you will not feel overwhelmed, but beautiful enough that experienced crocheters will genuinely enjoy the process too. It uses a simple mesh construction that creates gorgeous negative space, letting the mohair do what it does best — creating that soft, romantic haze that makes the fabric look almost ethereal. Whether you style it over a bralette, a fitted tank, or wear it as a beach cover-up, the Ziva top is versatile, stunning, and truly a joy to crochet.

Let me walk you through everything you need to know.

Why Mohair for a Mesh Top?

Before we get into the pattern itself, I want to talk a little bit about why mohair is such a perfect fiber choice for this style of garment, because I think understanding the material helps you make better choices when you are substituting yarns or troubleshooting your gauge.

Mohair comes from the Angora goat and is one of the most luxurious natural fibers available. The characteristic halo — that soft fuzz that blooms around the yarn — is what makes it so visually striking. When you work a mesh or lace stitch in mohair, the halo softens the geometry of the stitches without obscuring the open structure. You get the best of both worlds: the airy, feminine quality of mesh construction, and the soft warmth of a fuzzy yarn. The result is a top that looks incredibly high-end and designer without costing a fortune.

Mohair is also surprisingly lightweight, which makes it ideal for a top you plan to wear in transitional weather — those early fall evenings, cool summer nights, or air-conditioned spaces where you want just a little something extra. The mesh structure keeps it breathable, and the mohair itself adds a gentle warmth without weight.

I recommend a lace-weight or fingering-weight mohair blend for this pattern. A mohair-silk blend is especially beautiful because the silk content adds a soft sheen and gives the yarn a little more drape. Brands like Drops Kid-Silk, Paintbox Simply DK Mohair, or any similar lace-weight mohair blend will work beautifully. If you want to use a mohair-acrylic blend to keep the cost down, go for it — you will still get a gorgeous result.

Materials You Will Need

Here is everything you need to gather before you start:

Yarn: Approximately 400–600 meters of lace-weight mohair or mohair blend yarn, depending on your size. I used a mohair-silk blend in a dusty rose shade, but this pattern is absolutely stunning in ivory, sage green, charcoal, or any earth tone.

Hook: 5mm crochet hook (or whatever size gets you gauge)

Notions: Stitch markers, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors

Gauge: 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in mesh pattern (double crochet and chain-2 spaces). Gauge is especially important for garments, so please do swatch before you begin.

Finished sizes (unstretched):
XS/S: Bust 32–36 inches
M/L: Bust 36–40 inches
XL/2X: Bust 40–44 inches

The Ziva top is designed with 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it is meant to be slightly larger than your actual bust measurement for that relaxed, effortless fit.

Understanding the Mesh Stitch

The foundation of this pattern is a very simple mesh stitch made up of double crochets and chain-2 spaces. If you have ever worked a granny square or any kind of filet crochet, you will feel right at home. Here is what you need to know:

A mesh row is worked as follows: double crochet in the first stitch, chain 2, skip 2 stitches (or the next chain space), double crochet in the next stitch, repeat from to across, turn.

Each chain-2 space from the previous row becomes the anchor point for your double crochet in the next row, creating a consistent, open grid. The mohair fills the spaces just enough to give the fabric body without making it stiff. The stitches remain visible, but the halo blurs the edges in the most beautiful way.

One tip: work your double crochets fairly loosely, especially in mohair. Tight stitches in fluffy yarn can be difficult to see and frustrating to work into, and they will also make your finished fabric stiffer than you want. Let the yarn breathe.

The Pattern

Abbreviations

ch — chain
dc — double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
sl st — slip stitch
rep — repeat
sk — skip
t-ch — turning chain

The Body (Worked in the Round from the Bottom Up)

The Ziva top is worked from the hem upward in joined rounds, so you will have a continuous tube with no seams on the sides. This makes it wonderfully smooth and easy to wear, and also means there is very minimal finishing at the end.

Foundation Round:

Chain 120 (140, 160) and join with a slip stitch to the first chain, being careful not to twist your chain. This forms the bottom hem of your top.

Round 1 (Establish mesh):
Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in same st, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, rep from to around, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to join.

You will have 40 (46, 53) mesh spaces around. Make a note of your stitch count here because this is your baseline.

Rounds 2 through 20 (or to desired length before waist shaping):
Ch 3, turn, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp, rep from * around, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Continue working in this established mesh pattern for as many rounds as you need to reach your desired length. For a cropped top, you will want the body to measure roughly 8–10 inches before the yoke. For a longer top that hits at the hip, work until the piece measures 12–14 inches.

A note on length: Because mohair has a natural drape, the piece will grow slightly when worn. It is always better to stop a little short than to go too long. Try the piece on as you go — or hold it up against your body to check the length. Trust the process.

Waist Shaping (Optional)

If you want a little definition at the waist, this is where you add it. The Ziva top looks beautiful both with and without waist shaping, so feel free to skip this section entirely if you prefer a straight, boxy fit.

To create a gentle waist taper, you will work a few rows with a slightly smaller hook (drop down to a 4.5mm) and then return to your 5mm hook for the yoke. This creates a subtle drawing-in at the waist without changing the stitch count, keeping the math simple. Work 4–6 rounds with the smaller hook, then switch back.

Alternatively, you can work one or two rounds in a slightly tighter variation — working dc in the ch-2 spaces and skipping only 1 chain instead of 2 — to bring the circumference in. This reduces your stitch count, so you would want to increase again on the following round by working 2 dc in some spaces. Only do this if you are comfortable with increasing and decreasing in a mesh pattern and want a more pronounced waist definition.

For most wearers, the hook-switch method is the easiest and most forgiving approach.

Dividing for Front and Back

Once your body is the length you want, you will divide the work to crochet the front and back yokes separately, which is how you create the armhole openings.

Count your total mesh spaces and divide evenly in half. For XS/S this gives you 20 spaces for the front and 20 for the back. For M/L you will have 23 spaces each, and for XL/2X approximately 26–27 spaces each.

Mark the halfway points with stitch markers so you know where each half begins and ends.

Back Yoke:
Working back and forth in rows (no longer joining in the round), work in established mesh pattern across the back half of your stitches only. Work until the back yoke measures 6–7 inches from the underarm (this is the armhole depth). End here and fasten off.

Front Yoke:
Rejoin yarn at the beginning of the front stitches. Work in established mesh pattern across the front for 4–5 inches, then begin the neck shaping.

Neck Shaping

The Ziva top has a simple, wide neckline that is open and flattering on every body type. You will create this by working only the shoulder sections and leaving the center front unworked.

For the left shoulder: work across approximately one-third of your front stitch count (roughly 6–7 spaces for XS/S, 7–8 for M/L, 8–9 for XL/2X). Turn and work back and forth on these stitches only for 2 more rows. Fasten off.

Rejoin yarn at the right shoulder stitches, leaving the center front unworked, and repeat to match.

The center unworked stitches create the neckline opening. The resulting neckline will be wide and scooped, which is exactly the look we want.

Straps

The Ziva top features delicate crochet chain straps that are worked separately and sewn (or crocheted) onto the shoulders. This keeps them clean and adjustable.

For each strap, work a chain of approximately 40–50 chains (or your desired length — try the top on and adjust to your comfort). Work 1 row of slip stitches back along the chain for a neat, finished look. Attach each strap to the front and back of the corresponding shoulder section using your yarn needle and a few secure stitches. Weave in all ends.

If you prefer a thicker strap, you can work 2–3 rows of single crochet instead of just the chain and slip stitch finish.

Finishing

Weave in all ends carefully. With mohair, I recommend threading the end through several inches of stitches in different directions before trimming, because the slippery silk content in many blends means the ends can work loose with regular weaving. Going back and forth in a figure-eight pattern gives extra security.

Block your finished top gently by hand washing in cool water with a little wool wash or gentle shampoo, then pressing out the excess water in a towel (never wring mohair) and laying flat to dry. Blocking transforms mohair in a remarkable way — the halo opens up, the stitches relax into their proper places, and the whole piece takes on that gorgeous drape you have been admiring on finished projects.

Styling the Ziva Mohair Mesh Top

One of the things I love most about this top is how many ways you can wear it. The open mesh makes it an obvious layering piece, and the mohair haze means it always looks intentional rather than thrown-together.

Over a fitted ribbed bralette is probably my favorite way to style it. The contrast between the structured bralette and the dreamy mohair is very editorial. A satin bralette underneath takes it somewhere evening-appropriate without much effort.

For a beach-ready look, throw it over a swimsuit or bikini top. The slightly oversized fit and the breathable mesh make it genuinely useful as a beach cover-up, and it looks a thousand times more interesting than a standard cover-up wrap.

In cooler weather, I love wearing the Ziva with a pair of high-waisted wide-leg trousers and a thin turtleneck layered underneath. The mohair reads romantic and a little bohemian, which pairs beautifully with earthy tones and flowy silhouettes.

On its own as a going-out top with high-waisted jeans and mules — yes. Always yes.

Tips for Working with Mohair

If you are new to mohair, welcome. It is magical and slightly maddening and absolutely worth every moment of the learning curve. A few things I wish someone had told me early on:

Work slowly. Mohair is harder to frog (undo) than regular yarn because the fibers cling to each other. Once you make a stitch, it tends to want to stay where it is. Take your time and check your work frequently so you do not need to rip back.

Use good lighting. The halo can make it genuinely difficult to see individual stitches in anything other than bright, direct light. Natural daylight is ideal. A ring light or bright desk lamp also helps.

Your hook matters. A hook with a smooth, tapered head glides through mohair much more easily than a hook with a pronounced lip or a very squared head. Many crocheters love Clover Amour hooks specifically for fluffy yarns.

Do not panic if your gauge is off at first. Mohair behaves differently from wool or cotton. Give yourself time to get comfortable with the material before you commit to the full project.

Final Thoughts

The Ziva Mohair Mesh Top is one of those projects that feels like a small act of self-care every time you sit down to work on it. The repetitive mesh stitch is meditative and satisfying, the mohair feels incredible in your hands, and watching the fabric grow with that dreamy haze is just genuinely lovely. It is the kind of project that makes you want to crochet another one immediately in a different color — and trust me, the temptation is real.

I hope you love making this as much as I loved designing it. If you make a Ziva top, please share it with me — I live for seeing your versions. Tag me on Instagram or leave a comment below so I can see your beautiful work. Happy crocheting.