Crochet High Waisted Shorts Tutorial – Free Pattern + Tutorial

There is something genuinely satisfying about wearing something you made with your own hands, and crochet shorts are one of those projects that feel both impressive and surprisingly wearable. High waisted shorts in particular have had a major fashion moment for several years now, and crocheting your own means you get the perfect fit, the exact yarn color you want, and the pride of answering “I made it” when someone asks where you got them. Whether you are a beginner looking to stretch your skills or an experienced crocheter wanting a quick summer project, this tutorial walks you through everything you need to make your own crochet high waisted shorts from scratch.

This pattern is written for sizes small through extra-large, with notes on how to adjust the fit throughout. You do not need any special equipment beyond what most crocheters already own, and the stitches used are all foundational ones you have likely already practiced.

What You Will Need

Before you start, gather your materials. Having everything ready before you begin saves a lot of frustration mid-project.

Yarn: You will want a lightweight cotton yarn for this project. Cotton is breathable, holds its shape well, and is ideal for warm-weather garments. Look for a DK weight or light worsted weight cotton. You will need approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK, and Drops Safran are all excellent options that are easy to find and affordable.

Hook: A 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook works well with most DK weight cotton yarns. Check your yarn label and swatch before committing to a hook size.

Other supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and about one yard of 1.5-inch wide elastic for the waistband.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet. Gauge matters more for garments than almost any other type of project, so please take the time to make a swatch. A swatch that is even slightly off will result in shorts that are too large or too small in the finished garment.

Understanding the Construction

These shorts are worked in two separate flat panels — a front panel and a back panel — which are then seamed together at the sides and inseam. The waistband is worked separately and sewn on last, with elastic threaded through to create that high waisted look and keep everything secure.

The back panel is slightly longer than the front panel to provide extra coverage and a better fit across the seat. Both panels taper slightly at the inseam to shape the legs.

Working flat panels means you can easily try the pieces on as you go, adjusting length before you finish. It also makes the construction intuitive even for crocheters who have not made garments before.

Sizing and Measurements

Here are the finished measurements for each size. These are the actual garment measurements, not body measurements, so choose your size based on your hip measurement plus about two to four inches of ease.

Size Small: Hip circumference 36–38 inches, waist 26–28 inches, inseam 3 inches, rise 11 inches.

Size Medium: Hip circumference 38–40 inches, waist 28–30 inches, inseam 3.5 inches, rise 11.5 inches.

Size Large: Hip circumference 40–43 inches, waist 30–33 inches, inseam 4 inches, rise 12 inches.

Size Extra-Large: Hip circumference 43–46 inches, waist 33–36 inches, inseam 4.5 inches, rise 12 inches.

If you fall between sizes or want a more custom fit, the adjustment notes throughout the pattern will help you modify as needed.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

If you are newer to reading crochet patterns, here is a quick reference for every abbreviation used:

ch — chain, sl st — slip stitch, sc — single crochet, hdc — half double crochet, dc — double crochet, st — stitch, sp — space, rep — repeat, beg — beginning, RS — right side, WS — wrong side, sk — skip, pm — place marker, rm — remove marker.

The Front Panel

Foundation chain: Chain 73 (81, 89, 97). This number includes the turning chain.

Row 1 (WS): Starting in the third chain from the hook, hdc across. You should have 71 (79, 87, 95) hdc. Chain 2, turn.

Rows 2–18: Hdc in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn at the end of each row. This section forms the hip and lower waist area of the front panel. You will be working 18 rows total.

Waist shaping — Row 19: Hdc2tog over first two stitches, hdc across to last two stitches, hdc2tog. Chain 2, turn. You now have 69 (77, 85, 93) stitches.

Row 20: Hdc across. Chain 2, turn.

Row 21: Repeat the decrease row from Row 19. You now have 67 (75, 83, 91) stitches.

Rows 22–24: Hdc across without decreasing. Chain 2, turn.

Row 25: Repeat the decrease row. You now have 65 (73, 81, 89) stitches.

Row 26: Hdc across. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

This top edge of the front panel is your waistline. Set this piece aside and begin the back panel.

The Back Panel

The back panel uses the same stitch count for the lower portion but is worked a few rows taller for more coverage and a better fit across the seat.

Foundation chain: Chain 73 (81, 89, 97).

Row 1 (WS): Starting in the third chain from the hook, hdc across. You should have 71 (79, 87, 95) hdc. Chain 2, turn.

Rows 2–22: Hdc in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn. These extra rows compared to the front panel are what give the back its length.

Waist shaping — Row 23: Hdc2tog over first two stitches, hdc across to last two stitches, hdc2tog. Chain 2, turn. You now have 69 (77, 85, 93) stitches.

Row 24: Hdc across. Chain 2, turn.

Row 25: Decrease row. You now have 67 (75, 83, 91) stitches.

Rows 26–28: Hdc across without decreasing. Chain 2, turn.

Row 29: Decrease row. You now have 65 (73, 81, 89) stitches.

Row 30: Hdc across. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Shaping the Leg Openings

Once both panels are complete, you will shape the leg openings by working a decrease section along the bottom edge of each panel. This is what creates the crotch curve and gives the shorts their shape rather than leaving them as flat rectangles.

Lay your front panel flat with the right side facing up. Count in 22 (25, 28, 31) stitches from each bottom corner edge and place a stitch marker at each of those points. The section between the markers is the center of the bottom edge where you will seam the two panels together (the crotch seam). The sections outside the markers become the leg openings.

Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, slip stitch the front and back panels together along the bottom center section (the crotch), working from one stitch marker to the other. Do the same along the side edges to join the panels together, matching up your rows as evenly as possible as you go. You can also use a single crochet seam here if you prefer a slightly more decorative finish on the inside. Either method works well.

Assembling the Shorts

With your panels seamed at the sides and along the crotch, you now have a piece that is starting to look like shorts. Try them on at this point (over leggings or shorts you are already wearing if you prefer) to check the fit before continuing.

If the legs feel too long, you can simply not add as many rounds of leg edging. If the waist feels too loose or too tight, you can adjust the amount of elastic you use in the waistband.

Leg edging: With the right side facing you, join your yarn at the inside seam of one leg opening. Work one round of single crochet evenly around the entire leg opening, placing stitches consistently to keep the edge from puckering or ruffling. Slip stitch to join the round. Chain 1, do not turn.

Work one additional round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) around the leg opening. This stitch creates a firm, polished edge that resists curling and looks lovely against the main fabric. To work reverse single crochet, you work backward (to the right rather than left) by inserting your hook into the stitch to the right, yarning over, and pulling up a loop, then completing as a regular single crochet. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second leg opening.

Making the Waistband

The waistband is what gives these shorts their defining high waisted silhouette. It is worked as a separate strip and then sewn onto the top edge of the shorts before elastic is threaded through.

Foundation chain: Chain 9. This creates a waistband that is about 2 inches wide when folded over.

Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook, sc across. You should have 8 sc. Chain 1, turn.

Repeat Row 1 until the waistband strip measures the same as the total waist circumference of your finished shorts. For reference, this is approximately 52 (56, 64, 72) inches of strip length.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Fold the waistband strip in half lengthwise so you have a double-thickness strip. Using your yarn needle, whipstitch the long edge closed, leaving both short ends open. This creates a tube through which your elastic will be threaded.

Before sewing the waistband to the shorts, cut your elastic to your actual waist measurement (not the garment waist measurement). Thread the elastic through the waistband tube, pin both ends of the elastic together temporarily, and then sew the short ends of the waistband together to form a loop. Once you have confirmed the elastic fits comfortably, secure the elastic ends together with a few stitches.

Pin the finished waistband to the top edge of your shorts with the right sides together, distributing the fabric evenly around the waistband. The gathering created by the elastic-to-garment ratio difference is what creates that ruched, high waisted look. Whipstitch the waistband to the shorts all the way around.

Finishing Touches

Once your waistband is attached and all your ends are woven in, it is time to block your shorts. This step makes a significant difference in how the finished garment looks and drapes. Wet blocking is ideal for cotton — simply soak the shorts in cool water for about 15 minutes, gently press out the excess water without wringing, and lay flat to dry with the shorts shaped to your desired measurements. Once dry, the cotton will have a noticeably smoother, more even appearance.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own crochet shorts is the creative control you have over the final look. Here are some easy ways to personalize this pattern.

Add a decorative stitch to the hem. Instead of reverse single crochet on the leg openings, try a shell stitch border or a picot edging for a more feminine, delicate finish. Both are easy to add and dramatically change the overall aesthetic of the shorts.

Use variegated or self-striping yarn. A self-striping cotton yarn creates a beautiful effect without any extra effort since the color changes happen automatically as you work. This is a great option if you want more visual interest without changing the pattern.

Add belt loops. Chain about 20 stitches and slip stitch to form a small loop. Attach these at even intervals around the waistband and thread a ribbon or fabric belt through for a cute vintage-inspired detail.

Make them longer. If you want more coverage, simply work additional rows at the beginning of each panel before starting the leg shaping. Adding six to eight rows will take these from shorts to mini shorts with a bit more inseam, or you can go even longer for a bermuda-style short.

Try a stitch texture variation. The pattern as written uses half double crochet throughout the body, which creates a dense, stable fabric. For a lacier, more open look, you could substitute a simple mesh stitch or alternating chains and double crochets. Keep in mind that a more open stitch will need a lining or to be worn over a swimsuit or leggings.

Tips for Getting the Best Fit

Garment crochet has a learning curve even for experienced crafters, and shorts in particular require some attention to fit. Here are a few tips that will save you time and frustration.

Swatch and swatch again. A gauge swatch that is washed and dried before you measure it gives you the most accurate information since cotton can shift slightly with washing.

Measure yourself before you begin and compare to the finished measurements rather than your body measurements. Remember to account for ease — that two to four inches of extra room is what allows you to actually move and sit comfortably in the finished shorts.

Try on the panels before seaming. Holding the front panel up against your body before you join anything gives you an easy opportunity to add or remove length while the pieces are still separate.

Check the inseam length before finishing the leg edges. It is much easier to add a row or two before the edging than to rip back after.

If you find the waist gaping after elastic is added, reduce the elastic length by an inch or two. The elastic should feel snug but comfortable, and it will relax slightly with wear.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make these shorts with acrylic yarn? You can, but cotton is strongly recommended for warm weather garments because it breathes so much better. If you are making these shorts for a cooler climate or as more of a fashion overlay piece, a soft acrylic would work fine.

Is this pattern beginner-friendly? It is well within reach for an adventurous beginner, especially if you have worked flat rows of basic stitches before. Garment construction requires a bit more attention to detail than amigurumi or dishcloths, but none of the individual stitches here are complicated.

How do I wash the finished shorts? Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle, reshape while damp, and lay flat to dry. Avoid the dryer since both cotton and elastic do better with air drying.

Can I sell items made from this pattern? Yes! You are welcome to sell finished items made using this pattern. Please do not copy or redistribute the pattern itself.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting your own high waisted shorts is one of those projects that feels a little ambitious right up until you finish and realize how completely manageable it was. The construction is straightforward, the stitches are fundamental, and the result is a wearable garment that fits your body because you made it that way. Whether you wear these as a beach cover-up, over a swimsuit, with a crop top on a warm evening, or just around the house on a summer afternoon, you are going to get a lot of use out of this pattern.

Save this post for your next summer crochet session, and if you make a pair, share a photo in the comments below. There is nothing better than seeing all the different colors and customizations people come up with, and your version might just inspire someone else to pick up their hook and try.

Happy crocheting!