Crochet Open Mesh Top Tutorial: Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners and Beyond
There is something undeniably satisfying about crocheting a garment you can actually wear, and an open mesh top sits at the perfect intersection of beginner-friendly technique and genuinely stunning results. The airy, lattice-like structure of a mesh crochet top makes it ideal for layering over a swimsuit or bralette during summer, styling over a slip dress for an evening out, or simply throwing on over a tank top when you want a little texture and visual interest. If you have ever wanted to make your own crochet clothing but felt intimidated by shaping or complex stitch patterns, this is the project that will change your mind.
This tutorial walks you through everything you need to know to crochet a beautiful open mesh top from scratch. We will cover the materials you need, how to calculate your gauge and sizing, the stitch pattern used throughout, step-by-step construction instructions, finishing techniques, and plenty of tips along the way to help you succeed whether you are crocheting your very first garment or your fifteenth.
What Is an Open Mesh Crochet Top?
An open mesh top is a crocheted garment made using a repeating grid or lattice of chain spaces and basic stitches, typically double crochets or single crochets, that create an open, breathable fabric. Unlike dense crochet fabric worked in solid stitches, the mesh structure is light and flexible, which makes it drape beautifully and work well in warm weather.
The beauty of mesh construction is that it scales easily. The same fundamental stitch repeat that makes a small swatch also builds the body of your top, so once you understand the pattern logic, the whole project becomes intuitive. You are essentially working rows of evenly spaced chains and stitches that stack on top of each other to form the open grid.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials right before you begin will save you a lot of frustration. Here is what to gather before casting your first chain.
Yarn: You want a yarn that is smooth, lightweight, and has good stitch definition. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns are the most popular choice for mesh tops because they are breathable, hold their shape well, and do not stretch out significantly with wear and washing. A DK weight or light worsted weight cotton yarn works beautifully for most adult sizes. Plan for approximately 400 to 700 yards depending on your size and desired length.
Hook: The hook size will depend on your yarn and your personal tension, but for a light worsted or DK cotton, a 4.0 mm to 5.0 mm hook is usually a good starting point. The mesh structure inherently creates a more open fabric, so you do not necessarily need to go up dramatically from the yarn’s recommended hook size.
Scissors and yarn needle: You will need scissors to cut your yarn and a blunt tapestry or yarn needle to weave in your ends and seam the pieces together.
Stitch markers: These are helpful for marking the beginning of rounds if you choose to work in the round, or for keeping track of your pattern repeats.
Measuring tape: Essential for checking your gauge and your actual body measurements.
Taking Your Measurements
Before you begin crocheting, take a few key body measurements so you can size your top correctly. Crochet mesh fabric has natural stretch and drape, so an open mesh top is usually worked with a few inches of positive ease, meaning the finished garment is slightly larger than your actual body measurements. This allows it to hang and drape the way you want rather than pulling tightly across the body.
Measure your bust at the fullest point, your waist if you want to add any shaping, your hip if your top will extend past your waist, and your desired length from your shoulder or underarm to where you want the hem to fall. Write these numbers down and add two to four inches of ease to your bust measurement to get your target finished bust measurement.
Understanding Gauge
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows that fit into a four-inch by four-inch square of your crocheted fabric. For garments, gauge matters a great deal because even a small difference in stitch size compounds over the width and length of a garment, resulting in a top that is significantly larger or smaller than intended.
To check your gauge, crochet a swatch of at least six inches by six inches using your chosen yarn, hook, and the mesh stitch pattern described below. Fasten off, weave in your ends, and lay the swatch flat without stretching it. Measure how many pattern repeats (or stitches and chains) fit in four inches horizontally, and how many rows fit in four inches vertically.
The gauge for this pattern, worked in a standard mesh grid with DK cotton on a 4.5 mm hook, is approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows in four inches. However, your gauge may vary, and that is completely fine as long as you adjust your stitch count accordingly when calculating how wide to make your top.
The Open Mesh Stitch Pattern
The stitch pattern used in this tutorial is a classic chain-space mesh, sometimes called a filet mesh or grid mesh. It is worked over a multiple of four stitches plus one, which means your foundation chain needs to be a number that follows this formula.
Foundation Chain: Chain a multiple of 4 plus 4 for turning.
Row 1: Double crochet into the fifth chain from the hook. Chain 1, skip 1 chain, double crochet into the next chain. Repeat from the asterisk across the row, ending with a double crochet in the last chain. Turn.
Row 2: Chain 4 (this counts as your first double crochet plus chain 1). Skip the first double crochet at the base of your chain. Double crochet into the next double crochet. Chain 1, double crochet into the next double crochet. Repeat across, ending with a double crochet into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 for the length of the pattern. Every row will be identical once you have completed the foundation row, which is part of what makes this pattern so relaxing to work. You will begin to see the grid forming quickly, and the rhythm becomes almost meditative.
The pattern creates a series of small square spaces separated by double crochet posts. Each space is one chain wide, giving you that open, airy quality that defines the mesh top.
Sizing and Construction Overview
This tutorial uses a flat construction method, meaning you will work two flat rectangles, one for the front and one for the back, and then seam them together at the shoulders and sides. This approach is the most beginner-friendly and also the easiest to adjust for fit.
For a simple pullover mesh top with a square neckline and side slits, you will make two identical panels. For a top with a different neckline, such as a V-neck on the front only, you will make one modified front panel and one plain back panel.
The sizing chart below gives approximate finished measurements. Adjust your stitch count to hit the finished bust measurement that corresponds to your size plus ease.
Extra Small: Finished bust 32 to 34 inches. Each panel approximately 16 to 17 inches wide.
Small: Finished bust 36 to 38 inches. Each panel approximately 18 to 19 inches wide.
Medium: Finished bust 40 to 42 inches. Each panel approximately 20 to 21 inches wide.
Large: Finished bust 44 to 46 inches. Each panel approximately 22 to 23 inches wide.
Extra Large: Finished bust 48 to 50 inches. Each panel approximately 24 to 25 inches wide.
To calculate your starting chain, divide your target panel width by the width of one stitch unit based on your gauge swatch, then round to the nearest number that fits your multiple of four plus one. Always double-check with your swatch before committing to a full panel.
Step-by-Step Tutorial: The Front and Back Panels
Step 1: Calculate your chain count.
Using your gauge swatch and target measurements, determine how many chains you need to start. For a Medium size at gauge of 14 stitches in four inches, a panel of about 20 to 21 inches wide requires approximately 70 to 74 stitches in the mesh pattern. Round to a number that fits the multiple of four plus one formula, such as 73. Add the turning chain to get your starting chain: 73 plus 4 equals 77.
Step 2: Begin your foundation chain.
Chain 77 loosely. It is very common for crocheters to chain too tightly, which pulls in the bottom edge of the panel. If you tend to crochet chains tightly, go up one hook size just for your foundation chain.
Step 3: Work Row 1.
Double crochet into the fifth chain from the hook. Chain 1, skip 1 chain, double crochet into the next chain. Continue across the row in this pattern. You should end with a double crochet in the last chain and have a tidy row of evenly spaced mesh boxes. Count your pattern repeats to make sure everything lines up before you turn.
Step 4: Continue in pattern.
Work Row 2 as described in the stitch pattern section. Continue repeating Row 2 until your panel measures your desired length from the bottom hem to the start of the armhole shaping. For a crop top, this is typically around 8 to 10 inches from the cast-on edge. For a standard length top, work to about 12 to 15 inches, or to your armhole measurement.
Step 5: Armhole shaping.
To create armholes, you will simply stop working a few inches in from each side. At the beginning of your armhole shaping row, slip stitch across the first 8 to 10 stitches (or the number that corresponds to about 1.5 to 2 inches at your gauge), then continue in mesh pattern across the row until you have 8 to 10 stitches remaining. Turn, leaving those stitches unworked. Continue in pattern across only the center stitches for the depth of your armhole, which is typically 6 to 8 inches. This creates a simple drop-shoulder or modified armhole. Fasten off when the shoulder section reaches your desired depth.
Step 6: Make the second panel.
Repeat Steps 2 through 5 to make an identical back panel. If you want a V-neck front, you will modify the front panel at the neckline by splitting the work in half and decreasing slightly at each neck edge on alternating rows, or simply working each shoulder strap separately after dividing at the center.
Seaming and Finishing
Once both panels are complete, it is time to join them into a wearable top.
Shoulder seams: Lay both panels with right sides facing up. Line up the shoulder edges (the top sections above the armhole shaping) and use a whip stitch or slip stitch seam to join them. Leave the center open for the neckline. The width of the shoulder seams and the width of the open neckline are entirely up to your preference. A wider neckline creates an off-shoulder or loose boatneck look, while narrower shoulder seams with a smaller neckline opening gives a more structured feel.
Side seams: Turn the panels so the wrong sides are together and line up the side edges. Seam from the bottom hem upward to the beginning of your armhole shaping. Leave the armhole sections open so your arms can slide through comfortably. If you want side slits for a more relaxed, flowy look, stop your side seam a few inches short of the bottom hem on each side.
Edging: This is optional but it gives your top a polished, finished look. Work a single row of single crochet around the neckline, armholes, and hem. For a delicate touch, follow with a row of reverse single crochet (crab stitch), or add a simple picot edge. These details elevate the whole garment and are worth the extra half hour they take.
Weave in all ends using your yarn needle, securing them carefully so they do not slip out with wear and washing.
Tips for Success
Tension consistency matters even more in mesh than in solid crochet because each chain space is visible. If your tension changes from row to row, the grid will look uneven. If you notice your tension shifting, take a break and return when you feel relaxed. Crochet worked under stress is almost always tighter.
Count your stitches at the end of every row for the first several rows. It is very easy to accidentally work into the turning chain or skip a stitch when you are getting into the rhythm of a new pattern, and catching mistakes early saves you from having to rip back a large portion of work.
Block your finished top before wearing it. Wet blocking, in which you soak the garment in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess, and pin it to measurements while it dries, opens up the mesh beautifully and evens out any tension inconsistencies. Cotton yarns respond especially well to wet blocking.
If your top seems slightly too wide or too narrow after blocking, note the adjustment for next time. A difference of even one chain in your starting count can shift the size noticeably, and understanding how your personal gauge differs from the pattern gauge will help you dial in the fit perfectly on future projects.
Styling Your Crochet Mesh Top
The versatility of a crochet mesh top is part of what makes it such a satisfying project to finish. Over a bikini top or bralette, it becomes an effortless beach coverup. Over a silky slip or a fitted camisole in a contrasting color, it transforms into an elegant layering piece for an evening look. Paired with high-waisted linen trousers and sandals, it reads as polished and intentional. Tucked slightly into the front of a flowy skirt, it creates a relaxed, boho silhouette.
Because the mesh structure is inherently neutral in its visual effect, the color you choose drives a lot of the final feel. A classic white or cream looks crisp and summery. A deep terracotta or sage green feels earthy and warm. A black mesh top over a bold-colored slip creates a striking contrast. Variegated or hand-dyed yarn can add beautiful depth and color movement to the open grid.
Variations and Next Steps
Once you have made one open mesh top and understand the structure, there are endless ways to play with the design. You can widen the chain spaces from one chain to two or three chains per space for a more dramatically open, lacier look. You can add simple shaping at the waist by working a few decrease rows to pull in slightly, then increase rows to flare back out. You can add a crochet trim along the hem using shells, scallops, or a contrasting yarn color.
You can also experiment with construction. Working in the round for a seamless body and then separating for the armholes is a technique that eliminates side seams entirely and creates an even smoother, more continuous mesh. Top-down construction, in which you begin at the neckline and work your increases outward, is another option that lets you try the garment on as you go.
The open mesh top you have just made is not just a finished object. It is a foundation of understanding. The skills you practiced here, maintaining even tension across wide rows, shaping armholes, seaming panels, and adding clean finishing edges, will serve you in every crochet garment you make going forward. Start with the basic version, wear it with pride, and let it inspire your next project.
A Final Note
Crocheting a garment for the first time can feel like a big leap, but the open mesh top is genuinely one of the most forgiving and rewarding places to start. The pattern is simple enough to memorize within a few rows, the fabric grows quickly because of the open structure, and the end result looks impressively complex despite being made from one straightforward, repeating stitch. Give yourself permission to enjoy the process, make the swatch, trust your gauge, and take your time at the seaming stage. The few extra minutes you invest in neat finishing will make the difference between something that looks handmade in the best possible way and something that looks polished enough to wear anywhere. Happy hooking.
