Houndstooth Stitch Crochet Shorts: A Complete Step-by-Step Tutorial
If you’ve been searching for a crochet shorts pattern that combines classic style with a satisfying stitch to work up, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. The houndstooth stitch is one of those timeless patterns that looks far more complicated than it actually is — and when you use it to make a pair of crochet shorts, the results are genuinely stunning. Whether you’re a confident beginner looking to push your skills or an intermediate crocheter ready for a wearable project, this tutorial will walk you through everything from yarn selection to the final finishing touches.
Let’s dive in.
Why Crochet Shorts?
Crochet garments have been having a serious fashion moment, and it shows no signs of slowing down. From festival fashion to beachwear and everything in between, handmade crochet shorts offer something that store-bought versions simply can’t — a completely custom fit, your choice of color palette, and the deep satisfaction of wearing something you made with your own hands.
Crochet shorts are also a fantastic intermediate project because they’re smaller than a full dress or top, which means you can finish them in a reasonable amount of time without committing to a months-long project. And once you master the houndstooth stitch, you’ll find yourself reaching for it again and again in future projects.
What Is the Houndstooth Stitch?
The houndstooth pattern is a classic two-color textile design that has roots in Scottish woven wool fabrics. In crochet, we recreate the distinctive broken-check pattern by working with two contrasting yarn colors and a relatively straightforward colorwork technique involving slip stitches and single crochets.
The magic of the houndstooth stitch is in how the colors interlock. Rather than carrying yarn loosely behind your work (as in some colorwork methods), you’ll work the two colors together in a way that traps the unused color neatly inside each stitch. This creates a fabric that is neat on both sides, sturdy, and beautifully graphic.
When used for shorts, the houndstooth creates a visual interest that elevates a simple silhouette into something eye-catching. Choose a classic black-and-white combination for a timeless look, or go bold with navy and cream, dusty rose and terracotta, or even a pastel pairing for summer.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather everything you’ll need so you can work through this project smoothly.
Yarn: You’ll need two colors of yarn, referred to throughout this tutorial as Color A (your main color) and Color B (your contrast color). For shorts, a cotton or cotton-blend yarn is ideal — it’s breathable, comfortable against skin, and holds its shape well. Choose a yarn in the DK or worsted weight range depending on the look you’re going for. Worsted weight will work up faster and create a slightly denser fabric, while DK weight gives a lighter drape. You’ll need approximately 300–450 yards of each color depending on your size.
Hook: Use the hook size recommended on your yarn label, or go up half a size for a slightly more flexible fabric. A 4.0mm to 5.0mm hook is typical for this weight range.
Additional supplies: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, a measuring tape, scissors, and a 1-inch wide elastic (enough to go around your waist comfortably with a little extra for overlap).
Optional: Sewing needle and thread for securing the elastic, or a sewing machine if you have access to one.
Sizing and Measurements
This pattern is written to be easily customizable, so the first thing you’ll want to do is take your measurements. You’ll need four key numbers:
Your waist circumference — measure around the narrowest part of your torso, typically just above your belly button. Your hip circumference — measure around the fullest part of your hips. Your rise — measure from your waistband (front) down through your crotch and back up to where you’d like the waistband to sit at the back. And your inseam — measure from your crotch to where you’d like the hem of your shorts to fall.
The beauty of working in the round with a crochet garment is that you can try it on as you go and adjust the length to suit your preferences perfectly.
For reference, this tutorial is written for a medium size with approximately a 36-inch hip circumference. Adjustments for other sizes will be noted along the way.
Gauge
Getting your gauge right is essential for wearable crochet garments. Before you begin the main project, work a small swatch using both colors in the houndstooth pattern.
Work a swatch of approximately 20 stitches by 20 rows. Block the swatch gently (wet blocking is ideal for cotton) and measure it. You’re aiming for approximately 16 stitches and 18 rows per 4 inches (10 cm) with a 5.0mm hook in worsted weight cotton, though this will vary depending on your yarn weight and tension.
If your swatch is too small (your stitches are too tight), go up a hook size. If it’s too large (your stitches are too loose), go down a hook size. Don’t skip this step — a garment that doesn’t fit is a heartbreaking outcome for a project that took hours to complete.
Understanding the Houndstooth Stitch in Crochet
Before working the full shorts, it’s worth spending a little time practicing the houndstooth stitch on its own. Here is the basic method:
The houndstooth stitch works on a multiple of 2 stitches plus 1 for turning, though when working in the round (as you will for the body of these shorts), you’ll work on an even multiple of 2 stitches.
You’ll be working with Color A and Color B simultaneously, always keeping the unused color inside your stitches rather than cutting it at each color change. This is sometimes called “carrying” the yarn.
The basic pattern works like this: With Color A, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over with Color B, and pull through — that’s a Color B slip stitch. Then with Color A, single crochet into the next stitch. Repeat this two-stitch sequence across the row. On the next row or round, you’ll reverse which color does the slip stitch and which does the single crochet. This alternating is what creates the iconic houndstooth checks.
Take some time to practice this on a small swatch before beginning the shorts themselves. Once it clicks, it moves along very quickly and becomes almost meditative.
Pattern Instructions
Step 1: The Waistband
Begin with Color A and chain a number of stitches equal to your waist measurement (in inches) times your gauge stitch count per inch. For a 30-inch waist at 4 stitches per inch, that’s approximately 120 chains — adjust based on your own measurements and gauge.
Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist your chain.
Round 1–6: Work single crochet in every stitch around. These rounds will form the waistband casing that holds your elastic. At the end of these 6 rounds, you’ll fold the casing over and insert the elastic before sealing it shut — but don’t do that yet. Set it aside and keep your loop live.
Step 2: Begin the Body
Now you’ll begin working the houndstooth stitch. Join Color B and begin the colorwork sequence.
Round 1 (Color setup round): With Color A, single crochet into the first stitch. Slip stitch with Color B into the next stitch, single crochet with Color A into the following stitch. Repeat from around, join with a slip stitch.
Round 2: Switch the color roles so that Color B works the single crochets and Color A works the slip stitches. This reversal is key to building the houndstooth pattern.
Continue alternating these two rounds, checking your work every few inches to make sure the pattern is developing correctly. You should begin to see the distinctive diagonal checks forming within the first 10–12 rounds.
Work the body of the shorts in the round until you reach approximately 2–3 inches before the crotch point — this is where the two legs will separate.
Step 3: Dividing for the Legs
At the point where you’ll divide for the legs, you’ll work the first half of your round as normal, then chain a small bridge of stitches (approximately 6–10 chains, depending on your desired crotch curve and body measurements) to connect to the beginning of the other leg.
Place a stitch marker at the midpoint of your round. Work to the marker, chain your bridge stitches, skip the second half of the round, and join to the beginning. You’ve now created the crotch opening and established the first leg tube.
Work the first leg in the round, maintaining the houndstooth pattern, until it reaches your desired inseam length. Work 3–4 rounds of plain single crochet in Color A for the hem, then fasten off.
Return to the stitches you set aside for the second leg. Join your yarn, chain across the crotch bridge (picking up those chain stitches to close the loop), and work the second leg to match the first.
Step 4: Finishing the Waistband
Return to your waistband. Measure and cut your elastic so that it comfortably fits around your waist — snug but not tight, with about a half-inch overlap for joining.
Overlap the ends and secure them together either by hand-sewing with a needle and thread or with a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine. Fold the waistband over the elastic and, using your tapestry needle and a length of Color A yarn, whipstitch the live edge of the waistband to the inside of the shorts, encasing the elastic completely.
Tips for a Perfect Finish
Weave in all your ends carefully and securely. With colorwork, you’ll have more ends than usual to deal with, so take your time and weave each end in at least two directions to prevent them from working loose over time.
Block your finished shorts by submerging them in cool water, gently pressing out the excess moisture (never wring them out), and laying them flat to dry in the shape you want. Blocking evens out stitches, softens the fabric, and helps the houndstooth pattern really pop. For cotton yarn especially, blocking makes an enormous difference in the finished look.
If you want a more polished hem on the leg openings, work a round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) around each leg opening using Color A. This gives a neat, slightly corded edge that lies flat and doesn’t curl.
Customization Ideas
One of the best parts of making your own crochet shorts is the freedom to make them entirely your own. Here are some ideas to personalize your pair:
Fringe: Add a short fringe along the hem of each leg using Color B for a boho festival look. Cut lengths of yarn about 4 inches long, fold them in half, and use your hook to pull them through the hem stitches at regular intervals.
Pockets: While functional pockets are tricky to add to crochet shorts, you can add decorative patch pockets to the front or back. Simply crochet a small rectangle in the houndstooth pattern and sew it on.
Color variations: Try a three-color version of the houndstooth by alternating Color B every two rows with a third color (Color C). This creates a more complex pattern that looks stunning in earthy tones.
Length: Nothing stops you from making these into houndstooth crochet bike shorts by extending the legs, or turning them into full-length crochet pants with a longer inseam. Use the same body and leg technique and simply keep going until you reach the length you want.
Ties: Instead of an elastic waistband, try a drawstring. Crochet a long chain or finger-knit a cord in Color B and thread it through a series of chain spaces worked into the waistband. Tie it in a bow at the front for a cute, adjustable closure.
Caring for Your Crochet Shorts
Cotton yarn is generally machine washable, but check your yarn label to be sure. To keep your shorts looking their best, wash them on a gentle or delicate cycle in cool water, and lay them flat to dry rather than tumble drying. Heat can cause cotton to shrink slightly, and tumble drying over time may distort the houndstooth pattern.
Store your shorts folded rather than hung, as hanging can stretch the fabric over time, particularly at the waistband.
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
My houndstooth pattern looks blurry — what’s happening? This is almost always a tension issue. The slip stitches need to be worked fairly loosely so they sit at the same height as the single crochets. Try deliberately loosening your grip on the yarn when working the slip stitches.
The two colors are getting tangled. Keep your two yarn balls on either side of your work — one to the left and one to the right — and let them dangle freely as you work. After every few rounds, give each ball a little shake to unwind any twists.
My shorts are twisting. This can happen when working in continuous rounds if you aren’t joining each round. Make sure you’re joining with a slip stitch at the end of every round and starting the next round cleanly. Placing a stitch marker at the start of each round helps you keep track.
The waistband keeps flipping outward. Work the waistband in a slightly tighter tension than the body, or add an extra row before folding it over. A well-fitted elastic will also help anchor it in place.
Final Thoughts
Making a pair of houndstooth stitch crochet shorts is the kind of project that teaches you so much — about colorwork, garment construction, gauge, and finishing — while producing something genuinely beautiful and wearable at the end. The houndstooth pattern gives these shorts a timeless, graphic quality that works equally well at the beach, at a festival, or simply running errands on a warm day.
Take your time, trust your gauge swatch, and don’t be afraid to try the project on as you go. Crochet garments are wonderfully forgiving when you catch any fit issues early.
When you’re done, share your finished shorts on social media and tag your creation — there is a whole community of crochet makers out there who love seeing what fellow crafters create. And if you make any of the customizations listed above, we’d especially love to see how you made this pattern your own.
Happy crocheting!
