How to Crochet Your Own Bikini: A DIY Tutorial Inspired by Akoia Swim
If you’ve ever scrolled through Instagram and stopped dead in your tracks at the sight of a hand-crocheted bikini — delicate, bohemian, and impossibly beautiful — there’s a good chance you were looking at something inspired by Akoia Swim. The brand has become synonymous with that dreamy, handcrafted beach aesthetic: open-stitch tops, adjustable string ties, and a relaxed, sun-kissed feel that no mass-produced swimwear can quite replicate. The good news? You can absolutely make your own version at home, even if you’re relatively new to crochet.
This tutorial walks you through everything you need to know to crochet a bikini top and bottoms from scratch — from choosing the right yarn and hook to finishing the ties and blocking your finished pieces. By the end, you’ll have a swimsuit that looks like it came straight from a boutique beach shop, made entirely with your own hands.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Getting your materials right is the most important step before you pick up a hook. Crochet bikinis behave very differently depending on the fiber you use, and the wrong choice can lead to sagging, stretching, or a top that loses its shape the moment it hits the water.
Yarn: The most popular choices for crochet swimwear are cotton, nylon, or a cotton-nylon blend. 100% cotton is breathable and easy to work with, but it can stretch significantly when wet. A nylon blend (sometimes labeled as swimwear yarn or mercerized cotton) holds its shape much better and dries faster. Brands like Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton or Paintbox Simply DK Cotton work well, but if you want something purpose-built, look for yarns specifically marketed for swimwear. You’ll need roughly 200–300 yards for a top and another 150–200 yards for a bottoms, depending on your size.
Hook: A 3.5mm (E) or 4.0mm (G) hook is typically the sweet spot for bikini crochet. You want a firm, slightly tight gauge so the fabric doesn’t gape open when wet. Go a size down from what the yarn label suggests.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, a pair of scissors, stitch markers, and a soft measuring tape. If you’re making adjustable ties, you may also want a few small D-rings or lobster clasps, though traditional crochet ties work perfectly fine.
Gauge: Always, always swatch. Crochet a small 4×4-inch square with your chosen yarn and hook, wash it, let it dry, and measure again. This tells you exactly how your finished piece will behave in water. A gauge of around 16–18 stitches per 4 inches in half double crochet is a solid target for swimwear weight cotton.
Understanding the Akoia Swim Aesthetic
Before diving into the pattern, it helps to understand what makes that Akoia-inspired look so recognizable. The hallmarks are an open, airy mesh or shell stitch construction, long adjustable ties that wrap around the neck, back, and hips, a triangle top silhouette with optional padding channels, and a cheekier, high-hip cut on the bottoms. The overall feel is effortlessly handmade — imperfect in the most beautiful way.
The pattern below uses a combination of shell stitches and chain-space mesh to recreate that lightweight, beachy drape. It’s not a fully opaque fabric, so if coverage is a priority, you can always sew in a thin lining fabric on the inside of the cups and the front panel of the bottoms.
The Bikini Top: Triangle Shell Stitch
This top is worked in two separate triangles, then connected by ties. It fits most busts between 30 and 38 inches with adjustable sizing built into the tie system. If you’re working outside that range, I’ll show you how to add or subtract repeats.
Foundation
Start with a slip knot and chain 4. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, or simply work into the tail end of your chain to create a small, tight starting point. This becomes the apex of your triangle — the point at the bottom center of each cup.
Row 1: Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet throughout), work 2 double crochets into the ring, chain 2, work 3 double crochets into the ring. Turn. (You now have two shell halves separated by a chain-2 space.)
Row 2: Chain 3, turn. Work 2 dc into the first stitch, chain 1, work a shell of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the chain-2 space, chain 1, work 3 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. (You’re expanding the triangle by adding shells at the outer edges.)
Row 3: Chain 3, turn. 2 dc into first stitch, chain 1, shell into the next chain-1 space, chain 1, shell of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the chain-2 center space, chain 1, shell into the next chain-1 space, chain 1, 3 dc into top of turning chain. Turn.
Continue in this established pattern, adding one shell to each side on every row by working a shell into each chain-1 space and the center increase shell into the chain-2 space. Work until your triangle measures approximately:
- Small (A/B cup, 30–34″ bust): 8 rows
- Medium (B/C cup, 34–36″ bust): 9 rows
- Large (C/D cup, 36–38″ bust): 10 rows
Your triangle should look like a wide, lacy wedge when laid flat. Don’t worry if it curls slightly — that’ll relax once you wash and block it.
Edging the Top
Once both triangles are complete, work a round of single crochet around the entire outer edge of each cup. This stabilizes the shells and gives you a clean surface to attach the ties.
Working around the diagonal edges (the sides of the triangle), work 1 sc into every stitch and 2 sc into every row end. At the point (bottom of the triangle), work 3 sc into the corner stitch. At the flat top edge, work 1 sc into every stitch. Do not join — work continuously or join and turn, your preference.
Adding the Ties
The ties are what really give this top its Akoia Swim signature look. You need four ties total per top: two neck ties (one from each cup) and two back ties (one from each cup). Some makers add a center front tie that wraps around the ribcage as a fifth anchor point — this is optional but adds security for larger busts.
To make each tie: attach yarn at the corner point of the cup where you want the tie to begin. Chain until the tie is your desired length — neck ties are typically 18–22 inches, back ties are 12–16 inches. Work a slip stitch back down the chain to create a firm, round cord, then fasten off and weave in the end. Alternatively, you can work a longer chain and then fold it in half and knot it for a thicker tie.
For a cleaner, more polished cord, consider working a slip stitch cord instead: make a slip knot, insert hook into the slip knot loop, pull up a new loop through it, repeat. This creates a round, seamless cord with no reverse side.
Attach the neck ties at the top outer corners of each cup. Attach the back ties slightly lower, along the outer side edge of each cup, roughly in the middle of the triangle’s diagonal edge. When worn, the neck ties cross at the back of the neck or tie in a halter, while the back ties wrap around the torso and tie at the center back.
The Bikini Bottoms: High-Hip Mesh
The bottoms use a simple chain-space mesh that creates a slightly stretchy, semi-open fabric. They’re worked flat in two panels (front and back), then seamed at the sides and crotch.
Front Panel
Chain 40 (or adjust in multiples of 4 for your size — this gives roughly a 10-inch starting width for a size small/medium).
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook, ch 2, skip 2, sc in next stitch. Repeat from * to end. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip the first chain-2 space, sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2. Repeat across, ending with dc in last sc. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, sc in next dc. Repeat across, ending with sc in top of turning chain. Turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern. For the front panel, work even (no increases or decreases) for 6 rows, then begin shaping.
Crotch Shaping: At each end of the row, work a decrease by skipping the first and last mesh space. Do this for 4 rows total. You should have noticeably fewer stitches in the middle, forming a gentle curve inward. This is the crotch curve.
Work even on the remaining stitches for 2 more rows, then fasten off.
Back Panel
Work the back panel the same as the front but taller — add 4–6 more rows of even mesh before beginning the crotch shaping. This gives the slightly more generous back coverage that’s comfortable to wear while still keeping that cheeky, high-hip silhouette.
Edging and Assembly
Work a round of single crochet around the entire perimeter of each panel. At curves, reduce slightly to keep the edge from flaring; at corners, work 3 sc to keep them square.
Seam the front and back panels together at the crotch using a whip stitch or slip stitch seam on the wrong side. Leave the side edges open — these become the side ties.
Side Ties
At each side edge, pick up a long chain tie or a slip stitch cord, just like on the top. Hip ties typically work best at 20–26 inches, long enough to tie in a bow at the hip with tails dangling down. Attach one tie to the front top corner of each side and one to the back top corner of each side, then join them in a bow or overhand knot at the hip when wearing.
For the waistband, work a row of single crochet across the very top of the front panel and the very top of the back panel to stabilize the top edge before attaching ties.
Finishing, Washing, and Blocking
Once your pieces are complete, weave in all ends thoroughly. Because swimwear gets wet and tugged, run your yarn needle through the ends at least 3–4 times in different directions and consider a tiny dab of fabric glue on the very tip if you’re worried about security.
To block your bikini, soak both pieces in cool water for 10–15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (never wring), then lay the pieces flat on a blocking mat or clean towel. Pin the triangles into their proper shape — straight edges straight, point centered, top edge measured to your desired cup width. Let dry completely before trying on.
Blocking transforms crochet swimwear. Stitches open up, edges lie flat, and the whole piece drapes the way it’s meant to. If your finished work looks a little stiff or uneven before blocking, don’t panic — the transformation is real.
Sizing Tips and Customization
One of the biggest advantages of making your own bikini is the ability to customize the fit. Here are a few adjustments that make a significant difference:
If your bust is larger or you want more coverage in the cup, simply add more rows to each triangle. Every row adds approximately half an inch to the diagonal depth of the cup. Two or three extra rows can take you from a comfortable B to a supported D without changing the tie system at all.
If the mesh feels too open for your comfort level, work with a smaller hook or substitute a denser stitch pattern. A solid half double crochet fabric with yarn overs every few stitches gives you the texture of crochet without the transparency of mesh.
To line your bikini top — highly recommended for anyone who wants full coverage — cut two triangle shapes from swimwear lining fabric (available at most fabric stores), slightly smaller than your crochet pieces. Hand-stitch the lining to the inside of each cup around the outer edges, leaving the top open to create a pocket you can slip a soft foam cup into.
For the bottoms, a simple cotton gusset sewn into the crotch adds hygiene and comfort. Cut a small rectangle of soft cotton or swimwear fabric and hand-stitch it to the interior of the crotch panel.
Care Instructions for Your Crochet Bikini
Crochet swimwear needs a little more TLC than your average suit, but it’s not complicated. Always rinse your bikini in cool fresh water after swimming, especially in chlorine or salt water — both will degrade cotton and nylon fibers over time. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, which can stretch the ties and distort the cups. Hand wash with a gentle soap when needed, and store flat or loosely rolled rather than folded sharply at the seam lines.
Avoid machine washing and machine drying. Even a gentle cycle can tangle ties or stretch panels unevenly, and heat from a dryer can shrink cotton significantly.
A Few Final Notes on Pattern Reading
If you’re newer to crochet, the shell stitch pattern in this tutorial can look intimidating on paper but becomes very intuitive once you’re working it. The key is keeping track of your center chain-2 space — that’s the increase point that makes your triangle grow wider with every row. Mark it with a stitch marker at the beginning of your project and move it up as you go.
If you’ve been crocheting for a while but haven’t worked swimwear before, the biggest adjustment is trusting your swatch. Gauge matters more here than in almost any other crochet project because the finished piece needs to stretch with your body without gaping or sagging. Take the extra 20 minutes to swatch, wash, and measure. It will save you from an entire redo.
Making a bikini by hand is one of those projects that genuinely feels special from start to finish. There’s something almost meditative about building a garment stitch by stitch that you’re going to wear into the ocean, and when someone on the beach asks where your suit is from, telling them you made it yourself never gets old. Grab your hook, find a cotton-nylon blend you love, and get started — summer is waiting.
