DIY Crochet Purple Shorts Pattern: Easy Handmade Summer Outfit Idea
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing something you made yourself. When the weather turns warm and you’re reaching for lighter fabrics and brighter colors, a pair of handmade crochet shorts can feel like the most rewarding project you’ve ever taken on. Not only do you get a unique garment that fits your exact measurements, but you also get the meditative joy of working stitch by stitch toward something wearable and beautiful. This guide walks you through everything you need to know to crochet your own purple shorts — from choosing the right yarn to finishing the waistband — with enough detail that both beginners and intermediate crocheters can follow along confidently.
Purple is having a major moment in fashion, and it’s easy to see why. Whether you gravitate toward soft lavender, bold violet, or deep plum, the color flatters a wide range of skin tones and pairs effortlessly with white, cream, denim, and even contrasting brights for a fun summer palette. Crocheted in purple, a pair of handmade shorts becomes less of a basic wardrobe piece and more of a statement — something people will notice and immediately ask about.
Let’s get into it.
Why Crochet Your Own Shorts?
Before diving into the pattern itself, it’s worth pausing to appreciate why so many people are turning to handmade clothing. Store-bought shorts are fine, but they’re made to fit a generalized body. Crochet shorts made at home are designed around your body — your waist, your hips, your preferred inseam length. You decide how loose or fitted the legs are. You decide whether to add fringe, pockets, or a contrast-color trim. No off-the-rack item can offer that level of personalization.
There’s also the sustainability angle. Fast fashion has a significant environmental footprint, and choosing to make your own clothing from quality yarn is a small but meaningful step toward a more intentional wardrobe. When you invest your time and creativity into a garment, you tend to treasure it, care for it, and keep it far longer than something mass-produced.
And crochet itself is a genuinely accessible craft. Unlike knitting, which requires managing two needles, crochet uses a single hook and can be learned in a single afternoon. The stitches used in this pattern are straightforward — single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet — so if you’ve crocheted a dishcloth or a simple hat, you’re already prepared for this project.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting the right materials makes a noticeable difference in the final product. Here’s what to gather before you start.
Yarn: Choose a lightweight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in your preferred shade of purple. Cotton is the ideal fiber for warm-weather wearables because it breathes well, holds its shape, and softens beautifully with washing. Aim for a DK weight or light worsted weight yarn. You’ll need approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size, so buying two skeins is usually a safe bet. Popular choices include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, or Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. For the purple colorway, look for shades labeled lavender, amethyst, violet, grape, or plum depending on the aesthetic you’re going for.
Crochet Hook: A 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm hook works well with most DK cotton yarns. Always check your gauge swatch before starting the main project — more on this below.
Elastic: You’ll need a length of 1-inch wide elastic for the waistband, cut to your waist measurement plus about an inch for the overlap.
Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends and seaming.
Scissors
Stitch Markers: Optional but genuinely helpful for keeping track of round beginnings.
Measuring Tape
Understanding Gauge
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows that fit into a specific measurement, usually four inches by four inches. It tells you whether your crochet is producing fabric at the same density as the pattern assumes. Skipping the gauge swatch is tempting, especially when you’re excited to jump in, but for a wearable item like shorts, gauge determines fit. A swatch that’s even slightly off can result in shorts that are too wide or too narrow by several inches.
To check gauge, chain about 20 stitches with your yarn and hook, then work in half double crochet for at least 15 rows. Fasten off, block lightly, and measure. For this pattern, the target gauge is approximately 16 stitches and 12 rows over four inches in half double crochet. If your swatch has more stitches than that, try a larger hook. If it has fewer, try a smaller hook.
Taking Your Measurements
Before beginning the pattern, take the following measurements and write them down.
Your waist circumference is the measurement around the narrowest part of your torso, usually a few inches above the belly button. Your hip circumference is the fullest part of your hips and seat. Your rise is measured from your waistline down to your crotch, front and back. Your inseam is how long you want the leg portion of the shorts — anywhere from two to six inches for a typical short style.
This pattern is written for a 32–34 inch hip measurement with instructions for adjusting to smaller or larger sizes, so read through the notes on sizing before casting on.
Pattern Overview
These shorts are worked in the round from the waistband down. The body of the shorts is crocheted as a single tube that gradually increases to accommodate the hips, then splits into two leg openings. Each leg is then worked independently in the round. A casing is added at the waistband for elastic, and the leg openings can be finished with a simple shell stitch border for a decorative touch.
The construction is logical and beginner-friendly once you understand the flow. If at any point you feel confused, read through the entire section before picking up your hook — often the next instruction clarifies the previous one.
The Pattern
Abbreviations Used
ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, dc = double crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp = space, rep = repeat, RS = right side
Waistband Casing
Chain 130 (or a multiple of 2 that reaches comfortably around your waist with slight negative ease — the elastic will provide stretch). Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (130 sc)
Rounds 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (130 sc)
These six rounds create the waistband casing. Do not close the casing yet — you’ll thread the elastic and seam it after the shorts are complete.
Body of the Shorts
Round 7: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-2. (130 hdc)
Rounds 8–10: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join.
Round 11 (Hip Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st, [hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (140 hdc)
Round 12–14: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join.
Round 15 (Hip Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st, [hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (150 hdc)
Rounds 16–20: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join.
At this point your tube should reach from your waistline to approximately your crotch level. Try it on if possible, or compare the length to your rise measurement. Add or subtract rounds as needed before proceeding.
Splitting for the Legs
This step is where beginners sometimes feel nervous, but the logic is simple: you’re dividing the tube into two equal halves, each of which becomes a leg.
Count 75 stitches and mark this point. These first 75 stitches will form the front of the crotch joining, and the remaining 75 will form the back.
Joining the Crotch:
With yarn and hook, work a flat seam across 8–10 center stitches at both front and back of the tube (the very bottom of the body). To do this, fold the tube flat and slip stitch the center stitches together through both layers. This creates the crotch seam. It should feel like a natural divide into two leg openings when done.
First Leg
Join yarn to the first stitch at one leg opening. You should have approximately 60–65 stitches around each leg opening after the crotch seam (adjust if needed based on your measurements).
Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st around the leg opening. Join.
Rounds 2–8: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join.
These eight rounds create the leg tube. For longer shorts, add more rounds. For micro-length shorts, reduce to 4–5 rounds.
Leg Edging
The leg opening gets a decorative shell stitch border that adds a polished, feminine finish.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.
Round 2 (Shell Stitch): Ch 1, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell made), skip 2 sts, sc in next st, rep from to around. Join. Fasten off.
Repeat for the second leg, joining yarn at the corresponding point on the other leg opening and working the same rounds.
Finishing the Waistband
Cut your elastic to your waist measurement plus 1 inch. Thread it through the waistband casing (rounds 1–6) using a large safety pin attached to one end. Overlap the elastic ends by about one inch and stitch them together securely by hand or by machine. Fold the casing over the elastic and slip stitch it closed on the inside using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn.
Weave in all remaining ends. Wash gently by hand or on a delicate cycle and lay flat to dry.
Sizing Adjustments
To size up, increase the foundation chain by 10 stitches per size (so 140 for a 36–38 inch hip, 150 for a 40–42 inch hip) and add one additional increase round to the hip shaping. You may also need more yarn — budget an additional 100 yards per size increase.
To size down, reduce the foundation chain by 10 stitches and omit one increase round. For a 28–30 inch hip measurement, a starting chain of 120 with proportional adjustments works well.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
Working with cotton yarn is slightly different from working with acrylic or wool because cotton has very little elasticity. This makes gauge more important, but it also means your finished fabric will be crisp and structured — perfect for shorts that hold their shape throughout the day.
If you’re finding the crochet fabric too stiff, try going up half a hook size. If it’s too loose and open, go down half a size. The goal is a fabric that’s dense enough to be opaque but soft enough to drape comfortably.
When working in the round, always join at the end of each round and turn if the pattern calls for it. For this pattern, joining without turning keeps the right side consistently facing out.
Use stitch markers liberally. Mark the beginning of every round and the stitch just before any increase. This makes it dramatically easier to keep count without having to re-count from the beginning when you lose your place.
Block your finished shorts before wearing them for the first time. Wet blocking cotton is simple: submerge the shorts in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess water (don’t wring), and lay flat on a towel or blocking mat. Smooth the fabric into shape and let it dry completely. Blocking evens out uneven stitches and sets the final dimensions.
Styling Your Purple Crochet Shorts
The beautiful thing about a pair of handmade purple shorts is that they work across multiple aesthetics. Pair them with a simple white linen button-down tied at the waist for a relaxed, resort-ready look. Add a matching purple crochet top if you’re ambitious enough for a coordinating set — single crochet crop tops in the same yarn are a relatively quick follow-up project. For a more casual look, a fitted tank top and sandals let the shorts speak for themselves.
For accessories, natural materials complement crochet beautifully. Think woven straw bags, leather sandals, wood bead jewelry, or a wide-brimmed hat. Gold jewelry pops beautifully against purple, as does silver if your shade leans cooler.
If you’re making these for a beach or pool outing, consider lining the shorts with a lightweight swimsuit fabric. This makes them fully functional as swim cover-ups. Cut the lining to match your shorts and hand stitch it along the waistband and leg openings for a clean finish.
Variations to Try
Once you’re comfortable with the basic pattern, there are so many directions you can take it. Adding a crochet ruffle to the leg opening instead of the shell stitch trim gives a more whimsical, bohemian feel. Crocheting stripes by alternating your purple with white, cream, or a contrasting color like mustard or coral creates a completely different aesthetic with no additional pattern knowledge required.
For a more textured look, try working the body in a moss stitch (alternating single crochet and chains in an offset pattern) instead of half double crochet. The resulting fabric is slightly lacier and perfect for beach cover-up purposes.
If you want to add pockets — and truly, who doesn’t — crochet two small rectangles approximately 4 inches wide by 5 inches tall in single crochet, and sew them to the inside front of the shorts along three edges, leaving the top open. Because the yarn has a bit of texture, the pockets stay in place well without being bulky.
Caring for Your Handmade Shorts
Cotton crochet garments are durable but deserve some care. Wash them in cool or lukewarm water on a gentle cycle, or hand wash with a mild detergent. Lay flat to dry rather than putting them in the dryer — high heat can cause cotton to shrink slightly and may distort the stitches over time. If you need to remove wrinkles, a light steam with an iron set to the cotton setting works perfectly.
Store your shorts folded rather than hanging. Because crochet fabric has more drape than woven fabric, hanging can cause garments to stretch out of shape over time.
Final Thoughts
Crocheting your own shorts is one of those projects that feels ambitious when you begin and deeply rewarding when you finish. The learning curve is gentle — if you can make a granny square or a basic hat, you have everything you need to complete this project. The result is a wearable piece of functional art that fits you perfectly, reflects your personal color preferences, and costs a fraction of what you’d spend on a comparable boutique item.
Purple is a wonderful choice for a first wearable project. It photographs beautifully, stands out in a crowd, and has a timeless quality that means you’ll reach for these shorts season after season. Whether you’re wearing them to the beach, a backyard gathering, a farmers market, or just around the house on a warm afternoon, you’ll have the quiet pride of knowing you made them yourself.
Cast on, stitch by stitch, and enjoy every round of it.
