Free Crochet Skirt Pattern: Step-by-Step Guide for Sizes XS to XXL

There is something deeply satisfying about making your own clothes, and a crochet skirt sits at the top of the list when it comes to projects that feel both achievable and genuinely wearable. Whether you are new to garment crochet or you have been making your own wardrobe pieces for years, this free crochet skirt pattern has everything you need to create a beautiful, flattering skirt that fits your body — from XS all the way to XXL.

This pattern is written in a straightforward, beginner-friendly style without sacrificing the detail that more experienced crocheters appreciate. You will find full sizing charts, stitch counts, construction notes, and tips for customizing the length and texture to suit your personal style. Bookmark this page, grab your yarn and hook, and let’s get started.

Why Crochet Your Own Skirt?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate why a handmade crochet skirt is such a worthwhile project.

First, fit. Ready-to-wear clothing is made for an average body, and most of us are not average in every measurement. When you crochet your own skirt, you work from your actual measurements and adjust as you go. The result is a garment that fits the way clothing should fit — like it was made for you, because it was.

Second, cost. A good quality skirt from a boutique can cost anywhere from forty to well over a hundred dollars. A skein of yarn, a crochet hook, and a Saturday afternoon can produce something just as beautiful for a fraction of the price.

Third, the sheer joy of making something. There is a quiet pleasure in wearing something and being able to say, “I made this.” Crochet is tactile, meditative, and endlessly creative, and a finished garment gives you something tangible and lasting to show for your time.

Finally, sustainability. Making your own clothes reduces your reliance on fast fashion and gives you control over the materials you wear against your skin. You can choose natural fibers, organic options, or whatever matters most to you.

Materials You Will Need

Getting the right materials set up before you start will make the process much smoother.

Yarn: For this pattern, you will want a lightweight to medium-weight yarn. A DK weight (also called light worsted or weight 3) works beautifully, giving the skirt drape and a slight stretch without being too heavy. Cotton or a cotton-blend yarn is ideal for warm weather and gives the fabric a lovely stitch definition. If you want more warmth or coziness, a bamboo-cotton blend or a soft acrylic with drape works well too. A single skirt typically requires between 400 and 900 yards of yarn depending on your size and the length you choose.

Hook: A 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm crochet hook is recommended for DK weight yarn. Always check your gauge swatch before starting — this is especially important for garments.

Other supplies: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, a measuring tape, scissors, and about one yard of elastic (three-quarters of an inch wide) for the waistband.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet. Adjusting your hook size up or down will help you hit this gauge. If your swatch is too tight (smaller than 4 inches), go up a hook size. If it is too loose (larger than 4 inches), go down a hook size.

Sizing Chart

This pattern is designed to fit the following measurements. Take your measurements before choosing a size, and when in doubt, size up — it is always easier to take a skirt in than to add fabric.

XS: Waist 24–26 inches, Hip 33–35 inches
S: Waist 27–29 inches, Hip 36–38 inches
M: Waist 30–32 inches, Hip 39–41 inches
L: Waist 33–35 inches, Hip 42–44 inches
XL: Waist 36–38 inches, Hip 45–47 inches
XXL: Waist 39–41 inches, Hip 48–50 inches

The skirt in this pattern is worked from the waistband down and is designed to hit just below the knee — approximately 22 to 24 inches in length. You can easily adjust this to a mini length (12–14 inches), midi length (18–20 inches), or maxi length (28–30 inches) by working fewer or more rows before the border.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
yo — yarn over
blo — back loop only

If you are new to working in the round or new to crochet entirely, a quick review of these stitches on a practice swatch will make the pattern go smoothly.

Pattern Notes

This skirt is worked in the round from the top down. The waistband is worked first, then the body of the skirt, then a simple decorative border at the hem. Increases are made in the hip section to create a comfortable, relaxed fit through the hips.

The waistband uses a folded channel to hold the elastic, which gives a neat, clean finish on the inside. The body of the skirt uses a half double crochet stitch worked in the back loop only for the first several rows, creating a ribbed, textured effect at the top before transitioning to a simple shell or open mesh pattern for the skirt body. You can keep the entire skirt in half double crochet if you prefer a more opaque, solid fabric.

The Pattern

Part One: Waistband

Begin with a foundation chain. The waistband is worked flat, then seamed at the back.

Chain: XS: 18 ch, S: 18 ch, M: 20 ch, L: 20 ch, XL: 22 ch, XXL: 22 ch

Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (XS/S: 16 hdc, M/L: 18 hdc, XL/XXL: 20 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in blo across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the waistband measures: XS: 24 inches, S: 27 inches, M: 30 inches, L: 33 inches, XL: 36 inches, XXL: 39 inches.

Fold the waistband in half lengthwise so that the long edges meet. Slip stitch along the long edge to create a tube. Do not close the short ends yet — you will thread your elastic through and seam the ends after.

Thread your elastic through the waistband tube and adjust it to your actual waist measurement, leaving about a half inch of overlap. Stitch the elastic ends together securely, then slip stitch the short ends of the waistband closed.

Part Two: Skirt Body

With the right side facing, join yarn to the bottom edge of the waistband. You will now work in the round.

Foundation Round: Work evenly across the bottom edge of the waistband as follows:

XS: 96 hdc (join with sl st to form a ring)
S: 108 hdc
M: 120 hdc
L: 132 hdc
XL: 144 hdc
XXL: 156 hdc

Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to keep your place.

Rounds 1–6: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. (stitch count remains the same)

These six rounds create a smooth transition from the waistband into the hip area. Work them in both loops for a clean, solid fabric.

Hip Increase Section (Rounds 7–12):

You will increase evenly around over the next six rounds to add ease through the hip. Each increase round adds the following number of stitches:

XS: 6 stitches per increase round (total increase: 36 stitches, ending at 132 hdc)
S: 6 stitches per increase round (total: 36, ending at 144 hdc)
M: 6 stitches per increase round (total: 36, ending at 156 hdc)
L: 6 stitches per increase round (total: 36, ending at 168 hdc)
XL: 6 stitches per increase round (total: 36, ending at 180 hdc)
XXL: 6 stitches per increase round (total: 36, ending at 192 hdc)

To work an increase round, divide your total stitch count by 6 to find the interval. Place a hdc increase (2 hdc in the same stitch) at every interval. For example, for size M in Round 7, you will work 2 hdc in the same stitch every 20 stitches.

Alternate increase rounds with plain rounds: work an increase round, then a plain round, then an increase round, until all six increase rounds are complete.

Body Section (Rounds 13 to desired length):

After the hip increases are complete, the skirt body is worked without further shaping. You have two options here.

Option A: Solid Hdc Body
Continue working hdc in each stitch around, joining at the end of each round, until the skirt measures your desired length minus about 2 inches for the border. This gives a beautiful, dense, opaque fabric. It is slightly more yarn-intensive but very satisfying to wear.

Option B: Shell Stitch Body
For a lighter, more decorative look, switch to a simple shell stitch pattern after the increase section.

To work the shell stitch body, your stitch count must be divisible by 6. Adjust by one or two stitches on the first shell round if necessary.

Shell Stitch Round: Ch 3, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (this is one shell), skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from the beginning around. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Shell Stitch Round 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sc, sc in center dc of next shell, 5 dc in next sc. Repeat around, ending with 2 dc in same sc as beginning ch-3, sc in center of last shell. Join.

Repeat Shell Stitch Round 2 until skirt reaches desired length minus 2 inches.

Part Three: Hem Border

The border adds a finished, polished look to the bottom of the skirt.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each stitch (or in each sc and the center dc of each shell, if using the shell stitch body) around. Join. (This evens out the hem.)

Round 2: Ch 4, dc in same stitch, skip 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next stitch. Repeat around. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.

Round 3: Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 3, 4 dc in same ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat around. Join.

Fasten off. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.

Finishing and Blocking

Blocking makes a significant difference in the look and drape of a finished crochet garment. If you used cotton or a natural fiber yarn, wet blocking works beautifully. Simply soak the skirt in cool water for about 20 minutes, gently press out the water (do not wring), and lay it flat on a clean towel or blocking mat. Gently shape it to your measurements and let it dry completely before wearing.

If you used acrylic yarn, steam blocking with a garment steamer or an iron set to the steam setting (held above the fabric, never directly touching it) will relax the stitches and give the fabric a more polished appearance.

Once dry, try the skirt on and check the length. If you want it shorter, you can carefully unravel the border, remove a few rows, and reattach the border. If you want it longer, join yarn at the top of the border and add rounds before working the border again.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own crochet skirt is how easy it is to make it your own.

Add a slit. When you reach your desired length, work back and forth in rows rather than in the round for the last four to six inches. This creates a back slit, which adds movement and makes the skirt easier to walk in.

Try a different stitch. The waffle stitch, the linen stitch, or even simple alternating rows of single and double crochet all work beautifully in a skirt body and create completely different textures.

Use two colors. Work the waistband and the first six rounds in one color, then switch to a complementary or contrasting color for the body and border.

Add pockets. Flat patch pockets or side-seam pockets can be crocheted separately and sewn on after finishing. A skirt with pockets is always a good idea.

Change the waistband. If you prefer a drawstring waist instead of elastic, work the waistband as a single layer, add a row of chain-space eyelets near the top, and thread a twisted cord or ribbon through.

Tips for Getting the Best Fit

Measure yourself carefully before starting, and measure again at key points during the project — before seaming the waistband and before starting the border are both good checkpoints.

Work a gauge swatch. Seriously. Gauge swatches feel like a chore, but they are the single most important thing you can do to ensure your finished skirt fits correctly. A swatch that is even slightly off will result in a skirt that is noticeably too big or too small.

When in doubt about sizing, use your hip measurement rather than your waist measurement to choose your size. The elastic waistband accommodates a range of waist sizes, but the hip section needs to have enough ease to pull the skirt on and move comfortably.

Try the skirt on frequently as you work. This is the great advantage of top-down construction — you can hold the work up to your waist at any point and see exactly how it is progressing.

Yarn Recommendations

If you are looking for specific yarn suggestions, a few options that work beautifully for this pattern include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (widely available, machine washable, beautiful stitch definition), Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (excellent color range, affordable, and consistent), WeCrochet Comfy DK (a cotton-acrylic blend with great drape), and Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. All of these are available online and in many craft stores.

For a more luxurious feel, Rowan Cotton Cashmere or a linen-blend DK gives the finished skirt a lovely weight and drape, though these are more of an investment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this skirt longer without adjusting the pattern? Yes. Simply continue working the body section for as many additional rounds as you need before working the border. Check your yarn quantity — a maxi-length skirt will use significantly more yarn than the amounts listed above.

What if my gauge is slightly off? The best fix is to change your hook size and re-swatch. However, if you are close, you can also adjust by going up or down one size in the pattern. For example, if your fabric is coming out slightly small at your chosen size, follow the instructions for the next size up.

Can I use worsted weight yarn? Yes, but the skirt will be heavier and thicker. Use a 5.0 or 5.5 mm hook and re-gauge accordingly. The stitch counts in the pattern will remain the same but the measurements may shift, so measure frequently.

How long does this project take? For an average crocheter, expect 10 to 20 hours depending on the size and length chosen. The shell stitch version works up faster than the solid hdc version because each shell covers more stitches in fewer rounds.

Final Thoughts

A handmade crochet skirt is one of those projects you will reach for again and again — not just in terms of wearing it, but in terms of making it. Once you have made one and experienced