How to Crochet a Ribbed Tube Top (Beginner-Friendly Tutorial)
If you’ve been scrolling through social media lately, you’ve probably noticed that crocheted tube tops are absolutely everywhere. From beach cover-ups to festival outfits to casual summer staples, they’re one of the most versatile and stylish pieces you can make. The best part? A ribbed tube top is one of the most satisfying beginner projects out there — it’s repetitive in the best possible way, it works up quickly, and the result looks far more impressive than the effort it takes.
This tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to crochet your own ribbed tube top from start to finish. Whether you’ve only made a few scarves or you’re just getting comfortable with your hook, you’ll be able to follow along. By the end, you’ll have a stretchy, flattering top that fits like it was made for you — because it was.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Before you pick up your hook, let’s talk about supplies. Having the right materials makes a noticeable difference in how your finished top looks and feels, especially when it comes to yarn choice.
Yarn: For a tube top, you want a yarn with some natural stretch. Cotton-acrylic blends are ideal because they’re breathable, hold their shape, and wash beautifully. Pure cotton works too but has less elasticity, which matters with a ribbed stitch. Look for a DK or worsted weight yarn — DK gives a lighter, drapier result, while worsted produces a thicker, sturdier fabric. You’ll need approximately 300–500 yards depending on your size and yarn weight.
Hook: Match your hook to your yarn. For DK weight, a 4.0mm or 4.5mm hook works well. For worsted weight, go with a 5.0mm or 5.5mm. The ribbed stitch creates a naturally tight fabric, so you may want to go up half a size from what the yarn label recommends to keep things comfortable and stretchy.
Other supplies: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers to keep track of your place, a measuring tape, and scissors.
Understanding the Ribbed Stitch
The magic of a ribbed tube top comes from one simple but powerful technique: working into the back loop only, also called BLO.
When you insert your hook into a stitch normally, you pick up both the front and back loops that form the V on top of each stitch. When you work into the back loop only, you skip the front loop and insert your hook under just the back loop. This tiny change creates a raised horizontal ridge on the front of your fabric — that’s the rib. The row of skipped front loops creates the valley between ribs.
Working BLO also creates a fabric with more horizontal stretch than regular single crochet, which is exactly what you want in a fitted top.
If you’ve never tried BLO before, take a few minutes to practice on a small swatch before starting your top. Work about 20 stitches of single crochet BLO across 10 rows and you’ll immediately see the texture developing. It feels slightly different from regular single crochet at first, but you’ll fall into the rhythm quickly.
Sizing and Measurements
One of the best things about crocheting your own clothing is the ability to customize the fit. Before you start, take these measurements:
Bust circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your chest. Add 1–2 inches of ease if you want a relaxed fit, or use your exact measurement for a snug, body-hugging look.
Length: Decide how long you want your top. A classic tube top sits about 10–12 inches from the top edge to the bottom hem. A longer, corset-style version might be 14–16 inches. Measure from just below your underarms to wherever you’d like the bottom to fall.
Here are general starting stitch counts for the most common sizes, based on worsted weight yarn with a 5.0mm hook and a gauge of approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches:
For a small (32–34 inch bust), aim for a foundation of around 110–120 stitches. For a medium (35–37 inch bust), aim for 125–135 stitches. For a large (38–40 inch bust), aim for 140–150 stitches. For an extra-large (41–44 inch bust), aim for 155–165 stitches.
Always, always make a gauge swatch before you start. It takes ten extra minutes and saves hours of frustration. Work a 4-by-4-inch swatch in BLO single crochet, wash it the way you plan to wash your finished top, and measure your stitch count per inch. Adjust your hook size as needed until your gauge matches.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Create Your Foundation Chain
Chain the number of stitches for your size plus 1 for the turning chain. So for a medium, you’d chain approximately 136.
Before you join to work in the round (which is one option), or before you begin your rows, give your chain a good stretch. Because the ribbed BLO fabric is naturally stretchy, your foundation chain needs to have some give too. If it feels tight, add a half size to your hook just for the foundation chain, then switch back to your regular hook for the body of the top.
Step 2: Set Up Your First Row
This top is worked flat — meaning in rows, not in the round — and then seamed at the end. Many crocheters find that working flat gives more consistent tension and makes it easier to control the ribbing direction.
Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from the hook, then single crochet in every chain across. At the end of the row, chain 1 and turn.
This first row is worked through both loops because there’s no previous row to create back loops from. From Row 2 onward, every stitch will be worked into the back loop only.
Step 3: Work the Ribbed Body
Row 2 and all subsequent rows: Single crochet in the back loop only of every stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
That’s it. Seriously. The entire body of this top is just this one row repeated over and over until your piece reaches the right length.
A few things to keep in mind as you work:
Your stitch count should stay exactly the same every row. If you find yourself gaining or losing stitches, the most common culprit is working into the turning chain at the beginning of a row (which adds a stitch) or missing the last stitch of a row (which loses one). Check your count every 5–10 rows, especially when you’re just starting out.
The chain-1 turning chain does not count as a stitch in this pattern. Your first real stitch of every row is the first actual single crochet stitch, right at the base of the turning chain.
As the fabric builds, hold it up occasionally and appreciate the texture forming. You’ll notice the ribs running vertically up your work, which will become the horizontal ribs around the body of your finished top — this is because we’re seaming the short ends together.
Step 4: Check Your Length
Keep working until your piece measures the length you need for your size. Here’s a quick guideline: measure your bust circumference, subtract 1–2 inches for negative ease (the slight stretch that keeps the top snug), and that’s the length your flat piece needs to be before seaming. For example, if your bust is 36 inches and you want a snug fit, work until your piece measures about 34–35 inches in length.
Your width (the number of rows you’ve worked, measured from bottom to top of the flat piece) equals the actual height of your finished tube top — aim for 10–14 inches depending on your preferred length.
Step 5: Seam the Sides
Once your panel is complete, it’s time to turn it into a tube. Fold the piece so the two short ends meet, right sides together if you want the seam on the inside. Thread your tapestry needle with a length of matching yarn.
Use a whipstitch or a slip stitch seam to join the two ends together stitch by stitch, being careful not to pull too tight — the seam needs to stretch along with the fabric or it will pucker and limit movement.
If you want the seam to be completely invisible, you can use a technique called the mattress stitch: lay the two edges flat beside each other and weave your needle back and forth between the rows of each side, drawing them together seamlessly. This takes a little more patience but the result is beautiful.
Secure your yarn with a few knots and weave in the tail.
Finishing the Edges
The raw top and bottom edges of a ribbed tube top can look a little unfinished if you leave them as-is. Here are a few easy ways to clean them up:
Simple single crochet border: Turn the top right-side out, join your yarn at the seam, and work one round of single crochet evenly around the top edge. Slip stitch to join, then chain 1 and work a second round if you’d like more structure. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the bottom edge.
Reverse single crochet (crab stitch) border: This creates a lovely twisted, corded edge that adds a subtle decorative finish. After your first round of regular single crochet, do not turn. Instead, work backward (right to left) inserting your hook into each stitch. This creates a rope-like edge that lies flat and frames the top beautifully.
Picot edge: For something a little more decorative, try a picot border. After your foundation round of single crochet, work as follows: single crochet in the first stitch, chain 3, slip stitch back into the first chain, then single crochet in the next stitch. Repeat all the way around. This creates small loops that give the edge a delicate, feminine look.
Optional: Adding Straps
A tube top works perfectly well without straps, but if you’d like a little extra security or a different style, adding straps is straightforward.
For simple spaghetti straps, join your yarn at the center front of the top edge. Chain until your strap reaches the desired length when stretched slightly (usually 12–18 inches depending on your body). Slip stitch back along the chain to create a double-layer strap, then attach to the back of the top at the corresponding position. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second strap.
For wider straps, work a strip of BLO single crochet about 1 inch wide and long enough to go over your shoulder comfortably, then sew it to the front and back of the top with your tapestry needle.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
The tube feels too tight: This usually means your gauge is off — your stitches are smaller than expected. Try again with a larger hook. You can also add more stitches to your foundation chain (every 2 extra stitches adds roughly half an inch of circumference).
The tube keeps rolling at the edges: A little rolling is normal with single crochet. The finishing border rounds you work around the edges should solve this. Make sure you’re not skipping those final edging steps.
The ribbing looks inconsistent: This almost always comes from accidentally working into both loops on some rows. Take a moment before each row to really look at your stitches and confirm you’re picking up only the back loop. Good lighting helps enormously.
My stitch count keeps changing: Count your stitches every row until you’re confident in the rhythm. The two most common mistakes are working into the turning chain (adds a stitch) and skipping the last stitch before the turn (loses a stitch). The last stitch of every row is right at the base of the turning chain from the previous row, and it can hide.
The seam is visible and bunchy: Loosen your tension when seaming. You want the joining stitches to be about the same size as the stitches in your fabric. If you’re using a whipstitch, try switching to a mattress stitch instead.
Tips for a Professional-Looking Result
Use a yarn with a slight sheen or a smooth finish — these emphasize the ribbed texture beautifully and give the finished top a more polished look. Matte cotton yarns are lovely too but will show the rib a little less dramatically.
Block your finished top before wearing it. Wet blocking — soaking the top in cool water, gently pressing out the excess water, and laying it flat to dry in the shape you want — evens out your tension, opens up the fabric, and makes the ribbing really pop. It also helps the top relax to its final size and shape.
Weave in your ends carefully. Because the fabric stretches, loose ends have a way of working their way through to the visible side over time. Weave each tail through several stitches in multiple directions, changing angle at least once, before trimming close to the fabric.
If you’re making this as a gift or want to sell it, consider keeping a few yards of yarn aside in case the recipient ever needs a repair.
Yarn Recommendations
If you’re not sure where to start with yarn selection, here are a few widely available options that work beautifully for this project:
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton is a smooth, mercerized cotton that comes in a huge color range and behaves very predictably. It’s a popular choice for beginners making their first garment.
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK is an affordable, consistent yarn with a soft finish that works up into clean, defined ribs.
WeCrochet CotLin is a cotton-linen blend that creates a slightly more textured fabric with beautiful drape — it’s a great choice if you want your top to have a more artisanal feel.
For a budget-friendly option, Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton is widely available and comes in an enormous variety of colors.
Caring for Your Crocheted Tube Top
Most cotton and cotton-blend yarns are machine washable, but to keep your top looking its best, wash it in cold water on a gentle cycle. Lay it flat to dry rather than hanging it — hanging a wet crocheted garment causes it to stretch out of shape under its own weight. Avoid putting it in a hot dryer, which can shrink or distort the stitches.
Store your top folded rather than hung for the same reason.
Final Thoughts
Crocheting your own ribbed tube top is one of those projects that reminds you why handmade clothing is so satisfying. It’s simple enough that you can work on it while watching a movie, repetitive enough to be meditative, and the result is a genuinely wearable piece that fits perfectly because you made it to your exact measurements.
Once you’ve made your first one, you’ll probably want to make ten more. The pattern adapts easily to different yarns, colors, and embellishments — try a variegated yarn for an effortless ombre effect, add a row of shell stitches along the bottom hem, or experiment with a contrasting color for the edging.
Most importantly, be patient with yourself. Every stitch you make builds your confidence and skill. Even if your first tube top isn’t perfect, you’ll learn something with every project, and your second one will be better for it. Happy crocheting!
