Bell Sleeve Tie Front Top — Free Crochet Pattern (Revised Version)

If you’ve been searching for a crochet top that feels breezy, feminine, and just a little bit boho, this bell sleeve tie front top is exactly what your hook has been waiting for. This is the revised version of one of my most popular patterns, updated with clearer instructions, improved sizing notes, and a few small tweaks to the construction that make the whole project come together more smoothly. Whether you’re a confident beginner who has tackled their first garment or an intermediate crocheter looking for a satisfying weekend project, this pattern has something for you.

Let’s get into everything you need to know — materials, sizing, stitch breakdown, and the full pattern — so you can cast on with confidence.

Why I Revised This Pattern

When I first published this bell sleeve tie front top, the response was genuinely overwhelming. Hundreds of you made it, shared your finished objects, and tagged me in your versions, and I am still not over it. But along with all that love came some really thoughtful questions and feedback. A few sections of the original pattern were ambiguous about when to join rounds versus work in rows. The sleeve shaping instructions caused some confusion, particularly around the bell flare. And several people asked for a more detailed guide on how to adjust the fit across a wider range of sizes.

So I went back to the drawing board, re-crocheted the sample from scratch, took detailed notes along the way, and came up with this revised version. The end result is structurally the same beautiful top, but now the instructions match what your hands are actually doing at every step. If you tried the original and got stuck, please give this version a try — I think you’ll find it much smoother.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start any crochet project, gathering your materials is half the battle. Here’s everything you’ll need for this top.

Yarn: You’ll want a lightweight yarn for this one — a DK weight or light worsted in a natural fiber blend works beautifully. Cotton, bamboo, linen, or a cotton-blend are ideal because they give the top drape and breathability, which matters a lot in a garment you’re actually going to wear. I used approximately 400–600 yards depending on size, so plan accordingly if you’re substituting yarn. I personally love working garments in 100% cotton because it’s easy to care for and softens with every wash.

Hook: A 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook. Check your gauge swatch — this is non-negotiable for garments. I know, I know. Everyone skips the gauge swatch. Please don’t skip the gauge swatch on this one. Even half a stitch per inch off will result in a top that doesn’t fit the way you’re imagining.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and a few locking stitch markers to mark your rounds and key construction points.

Optional: Blocking mats and pins if you want a really polished finish. Blocking does wonders for cotton garments and helps the lace sections of the sleeves open up beautifully.

Gauge

14 half double crochets and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in the main body stitch pattern.

Please swatch. Please, please swatch. Make a 6-inch square, block it, let it dry, and then measure the center 4 inches. Adjust your hook size up or down until your gauge matches. If your gauge is off, your finished size will be off, and I want you to end up with a top you actually love wearing.

Sizing

This revised pattern includes six sizes. The finished measurements listed below refer to the bust circumference of the finished garment. This top is designed with about 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it’s meant to be a little relaxed in fit.

XS: 32–34 inch bust (finished garment measures approximately 35–36 inches)
S: 34–36 inch bust (finished garment measures approximately 37–38 inches)
M: 36–38 inch bust (finished garment measures approximately 39–41 inches)
L: 40–42 inch bust (finished garment measures approximately 43–44 inches)
XL: 44–46 inch bust (finished garment measures approximately 47–48 inches)
2XL: 48–50 inch bust (finished garment measures approximately 51–53 inches)

Throughout the pattern, instructions for each size are listed in this order: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). If only one number is listed, it applies to all sizes.

Stitch Abbreviations

Here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout this pattern.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc2tog — half double crochet two together (decrease)
hdc-inc — two half double crochets in the same stitch (increase)
sk — skip
sp — space
st(s) — stitch(es)
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
RS — right side
WS — wrong side

Construction Overview

This top is worked in pieces and seamed, which gives you a lot of control over fit. The body is worked flat in two pieces — front and back — so you can try it on as you go. The sleeves are worked in the round from the shoulder down, with the bell flare added at the cuff. The front tie is worked as two separate ties that are attached at the hem.

One thing I love about working garments in flat pieces is that you can easily adjust the length before you seam. If you’re longer or shorter in the torso than average, this construction makes it simple to add or subtract rows before picking up for the sleeves.

Pattern Instructions

Body — Back Panel

Foundation chain: Ch 64 (68, 74, 80, 86, 92).

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in third ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. — 62 (66, 72, 78, 84, 90) hdc.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 13 (13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5) inches from foundation, or desired length to underarm.

Armhole Shaping: Sl st across the first 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts. Ch 2, hdc across until 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts remain. Turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. — 52 (56, 60, 66, 70, 76) sts.

Continue working even in hdc until armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5) inches.

Shoulder and Neck Shaping: Work across 14 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts. Fasten off. Skip center 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30) sts. Reattach yarn and work across remaining 14 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts. Fasten off.

Body — Front Panel

Work the same as the back panel through the armhole shaping. Continue working even until armhole measures 4 (4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5) inches.

Neck Shaping: Work across 17 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts. Turn and continue on these sts only, decreasing one st at the neck edge every row 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) times. — 14 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts.

Work even until armhole depth matches the back. Fasten off.

Skip center 18 (20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts and reattach yarn. Work second shoulder to match the first, reversing shaping. Fasten off.

Seaming

With yarn needle and a length of your project yarn, seam the front and back panels at the shoulders and side seams using a whip stitch or mattress stitch. I prefer mattress stitch for the side seams because it creates an almost invisible join on the right side, which looks really clean on a fitted garment. Leave the armhole openings open for the sleeves.

Sleeves (Make 2)

These are worked in the round from the armhole opening down to the cuff. The bell flare at the bottom is what gives this top its signature silhouette, and it’s honestly one of the most satisfying parts to crochet.

Setup Round: Starting at the underarm seam, join yarn with a sl st. Ch 2 (does not count as st throughout). Work 40 (42, 44, 48, 52, 56) hdc evenly around the armhole opening. Sl st to join. Pm to mark beginning of round.

Rounds 2–4: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Round 5 (Decrease Round): Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Sl st to join. — 38 (40, 42, 46, 50, 54) sts.

Repeat decrease rounds every 4th round 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times. — 32 (34, 36, 38, 42, 46) sts.

Work even until sleeve measures 8 (8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9) inches from the armhole, or desired length before bell flare begins.

Bell Flare Setup Round: Ch 2, (hdc, hdc-inc) around. Sl st to join. — 48 (51, 54, 57, 63, 69) sts.

Bell Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Sl st to join. — 96 (102, 108, 114, 126, 138) sts.

Bell Round 2: Ch 3, dc in next st, (dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) around. Sl st to join.

Bell Rounds 3–5: Ch 3, dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Cuff Edge: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The bell flare creates that gorgeous wide sweep at the wrist. If you want more dramatic flare, you can add an extra increase round before the plain dc rounds. If you prefer a more subtle bell, simply skip the second increase in Bell Round 1 and work the plain dc rounds with the original stitch count.

Neckline Finishing

With RS facing, join yarn at left shoulder seam. Ch 1, work a round of sc evenly around the neckline opening, spacing your stitches so the edge lies flat without puckering or flaring. Sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If you want a more polished neckline, work a second round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) around the neckline after the first sc round. This creates a firm, clean edge that resists stretching.

Tie Front

The tie front is one of the most charming details on this top, and in this revised version I’ve simplified how it attaches. Rather than crocheting the ties directly onto the front panel (which caused tension issues in the original), they’re worked separately and seamed on.

Make 2 ties:

Ch 6. Hdc in third ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. — 4 hdc.

Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat until tie measures 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16) inches, or your preferred tie length. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching.

Using the long tail and a yarn needle, seam one tie to each side of the front neckline, centering them at the V-neck point. The ties should start just inside the front neck opening so that when you wrap and knot them, the knot sits comfortably at the center front.

To wear, simply cross the ties over each other and tie a bow or knot at the center. You can leave the ends hanging for a relaxed look or tuck them in for something neater. Experiment — there’s no wrong way to style this.

Finishing and Blocking

Weave in all ends securely. I like to weave in ends in two directions — once in one direction, then back the other way — to make sure nothing works loose after washing.

To block, wet the finished top in cool water with a tiny drop of gentle soap. Gently squeeze out excess water — never wring — and roll it in a clean towel. Lay flat on blocking mats, pin to your measurements, and allow to dry completely. This usually takes 24 hours depending on your yarn fiber and how thick the piece is. If you’re working in cotton or bamboo, blocking genuinely transforms the drape and the way the lace sections of the sleeves open up.

Once dry, your top is ready to wear.

Styling Notes

This top is incredibly versatile, which is part of why it’s become such a perennial favorite. Wear it tucked loosely into high-waisted linen trousers for a put-together but relaxed daytime look. Layer it over a simple crochet bralette or a fitted tank top for extra coverage. It pairs beautifully with wide-leg jeans, flowy midi skirts, or tailored shorts. The bell sleeves add enough visual interest that you don’t need much jewelry — maybe just a few simple rings or delicate gold hoops.

For a beachy coverup vibe, try it in a natural undyed cotton and leave the ties undone, wearing the top more like an open cardigan over a swimsuit.

Troubleshooting Tips

The body is too wide or too narrow. Check your gauge. If you’ve already finished and the fit is off, blocking can help make small adjustments. For future reference, this is exactly why swatching matters.

The bell sleeves are bunching instead of flaring. Make sure you’re not twisting your rounds when you join them. It can also help to give the sleeves a gentle wet block, which encourages the double crochet flare to open up and swing the way it’s supposed to.

The neckline is stretching out. Work the reverse single crochet edge around the neckline to stabilize it. If it’s already stretched, a light blocking pin-out should coax it back into shape.

The ties won’t stay tied. This is mostly a yarn issue — slippery fibers like bamboo or silk blends sometimes won’t hold a knot well. Try a slightly different knot style (a reef knot tends to hold better than a simple overhand) or add a few stitches to the center point to tack them lightly in place.

A Final Note

Thank you so much for being part of this little corner of the crochet internet, and for your patience while I worked through this revision. Your feedback on the original pattern made this version so much better, and that’s genuinely the best part of sharing patterns — it’s a collaboration, even if it happens across comment sections and emails and tagged Instagram photos.

I hope you love making this top as much as I loved designing it. When you finish yours, please share it — tag me, leave a comment, drop a photo in the project gallery. Seeing your makes is truly the highlight of what I do. Happy hooking.