Bell Sleeve Tie Front Top: A Free Crochet Pattern for Effortless Boho Style
There is something undeniably satisfying about wearing a garment you made yourself, and this bell sleeve tie front top might just become the piece you reach for every single time. With its flowing silhouette, dramatic flared sleeves, and playful front tie detail, this top walks the perfect line between casual and elevated. Whether you pair it with high-waisted jeans, a flowy skirt, or even layered over a swimsuit at the beach, it works in ways that few handmade pieces manage to.
This is the revised version of the original pattern, and the updates make a real difference. The construction is more intuitive, the sizing is more inclusive, and a few key stitch adjustments give the finished fabric a drape that feels almost luxurious for something worked in cotton yarn. If you tried the first version and ran into trouble, come back — this one is better. And if this is your first time here, welcome. Let’s make something beautiful together.
What Makes This Pattern Special
Before we get into materials and stitches, it is worth taking a moment to talk about what this design is actually doing structurally, because understanding the why behind a pattern always makes the how easier to follow.
The body of this top is worked flat in two panels — a front and a back — that are seamed at the sides. This might seem old-fashioned compared to seamless construction, but for a garment with shaping at the waist and openwork sections along the hem, flat construction gives you so much more control. You can see your work as it grows, block each panel before assembly, and adjust stitch counts without having to rip back an entire round.
The bell sleeves are worked separately and seamed in, which again gives you control over the sleeve cap shaping. The flare comes from simple increases worked in a regular rhythm from the elbow to the cuff, and the result is that romantic trumpet shape that photographs so well and feels even better to wear.
The tie front is achieved by working the front panel with a center split at the top, leaving two tails long enough to knot or bow at the waist. This is one of those details that looks complicated but is actually just a matter of working two halves independently for the last several rows.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn: Approximately 400 to 600 yards of DK weight cotton or cotton blend yarn. The exact yardage depends on your size. Cotton is strongly recommended because it has the drape and breathability this style calls for, and it blocks beautifully. Mercerized cotton gives an especially lovely sheen. Some great options include Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, Drops Safran, or Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton.
Hook: 4.0 mm (US G/6) crochet hook. You may need to go up or down half a size to match gauge.
Notions: Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a flexible measuring tape.
Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in the main stitch pattern (half double crochet). Always check your gauge before starting a garment. A small difference in gauge leads to a large difference in the finished size.
Sizing
This pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL. Finished bust measurements are as follows:
XS: 32 inches. S: 36 inches. M: 40 inches. L: 44 inches. XL: 48 inches. 2XL: 52 inches.
This top is designed with approximately 2 to 4 inches of positive ease, meaning it is meant to fit loosely and comfortably rather than close to the body. Choose your size based on your actual bust measurement and the amount of ease you prefer.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc2tog — half double crochet two stitches together (decrease)
hdc-inc — two half double crochets in the same stitch (increase)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
sk — skip
sp — space
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
beg — beginning
The main stitch used throughout the body and sleeves is half double crochet. It creates a fabric that is dense enough to hold its shape but soft enough to move beautifully, and it works up faster than single crochet without the gaps you sometimes get with double crochet at a tighter gauge.
Pattern Notes
Read through the entire pattern before you begin. This is advice you have probably heard before and possibly ignored before, and it is always worth following.
The pattern is written with the largest size adjustments in parentheses. The order is always XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Chain 2 at the beginning of each row counts as the first hdc throughout this pattern unless otherwise noted.
After blocking, the finished measurements should be very close to the numbers listed. Cotton yarn responds extremely well to wet blocking, and it is worth doing even if you are tempted to skip it.
The Back Panel
Foundation chain: Chain 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106).
Row 1 (WS): Starting in the third chain from the hook, hdc across. You should have 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) stitches. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in each stitch across. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your work measures 4 inches from the foundation chain. This is the hem section.
Waist shaping begins here. You will decrease at both sides to bring the fabric in, creating a gentle curve at the waist.
Decrease row: Ch 2, hdc2tog over the second and third stitches, hdc to the last 3 stitches, hdc2tog, hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (2 stitches decreased)
Work 3 rows even.
Repeat this decrease sequence 2 more times. You should now have 58 (66, 74, 82, 90, 98) stitches.
Work even (no shaping) until the piece measures 8 inches from the cast-on edge.
Now you will increase to create the chest fullness.
Increase row: Ch 2, hdc-inc in the second stitch, hdc to the last 2 stitches, hdc-inc, hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (2 stitches increased)
Work 3 rows even.
Repeat this increase sequence 2 more times. You should now be back to 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) stitches.
Continue working even until the piece measures 14 (14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15) inches from the foundation chain.
Armhole shaping: Slip stitch across the first 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches. Ch 2, hdc across until 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) stitches remain, leaving those unworked. Turn.
You should have 52 (60, 66, 74, 80, 88) stitches remaining.
Work even until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5) inches from the bind-off row.
Fasten off. The back panel is complete.
The Front Panel
The front panel is worked identically to the back through the armhole shaping.
Foundation chain: Chain 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106).
Work the same hem, waist shaping, and chest increase sequence as the back panel.
Work even until the piece measures 14 (14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15) inches from the foundation chain.
Armhole shaping: Same as back. You should have 52 (60, 66, 74, 80, 88) stitches after the armhole row.
Continue working even until the armhole section measures 3.5 (4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5) inches. This is where the front tie split begins.
Front tie split: You will now divide your work in half and work each side separately.
Left side: Ch 2, hdc across the first 26 (30, 33, 37, 40, 44) stitches. Turn. Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Continue working even on these stitches only, maintaining the chain-2 beginning of each row.
Work until the left side measures 3.5 (3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5) inches from the split point. This creates your left tie.
For the tie extension: Continue working even for an additional 10 to 12 inches, decreasing 1 stitch at the center front edge every 3 rows to create a natural taper. This gradual narrowing gives the tie a nicer drape when knotted.
Fasten off.
Right side: Rejoin yarn at the center of the work on the remaining 26 (30, 33, 37, 40, 44) stitches. Ch 2, hdc across. Turn.
Work the right side to mirror the left exactly.
Fasten off.
The Bell Sleeves (Make Two)
The sleeves are worked from the top down, beginning with the sleeve cap and flaring outward to the dramatic bell cuff.
Foundation chain: Chain 44 (48, 50, 54, 58, 62).
Row 1: Starting in the third chain from the hook, hdc across. 42 (46, 48, 52, 56, 60) stitches. Turn.
Work even for 3 rows.
Now begin the bell flare increases. You will add stitches at both sides every other row.
Increase row: Ch 2, hdc-inc in the second stitch, hdc to the last 2 stitches, hdc-inc, hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (2 stitches increased)
Work 1 row even. Turn.
Repeat these two rows until you have worked a total of 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14) increase rows. You should now have 62 (66, 72, 76, 84, 88) stitches.
To deepen the bell flare in the final section, switch to a double increase pattern for the last 4 rows.
Double increase row: Ch 2, hdc-inc in the second stitch, hdc-inc in the third stitch, hdc to the last 4 stitches, hdc-inc in the next stitch, hdc-inc in the next stitch, hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (4 stitches increased)
Repeat this 3 more times. You should now have 78 (82, 88, 92, 100, 104) stitches.
Work 1 row of even hdc.
Final cuff row: Work a row of single crochet for a neat finished edge, then fasten off.
The total sleeve length from cap to cuff should measure approximately 17 to 18 inches, which sits beautifully at the forearm and shows off the full bell.
Assembly
Wet block all four pieces before seaming. Lay them flat on a foam mat or clean towels, pin to the finished measurements, and allow to dry completely. This step makes seaming significantly easier and gives your finished top a polished, professional look.
With RS facing, use a yarn needle and the mattress stitch to seam the shoulder areas. Leave the center portion of the neckline open for your head to pass through easily — approximately 8 to 9 inches depending on your head circumference. Try it as you go.
Seam the sides with RS together, matching the hem edges. The mattress stitch again works beautifully here for an invisible seam.
Attach the sleeves by pinning them into the armhole openings with RS together, centering the sleeve cap at the shoulder seam. Whipstitch or mattress stitch around the armhole. Ease the sleeve cap evenly as you work to avoid puckering.
Finishing
Weave in all ends securely, since cotton yarn can be slippery and a loose end will work its way out.
Give the assembled top one final light blocking, spraying it with water and smoothing it into shape on a flat surface. Pay particular attention to the bell cuffs, spreading them open to show the full flare.
The tie ends can be left as worked, with the slight taper giving them a neat finish. If you prefer, add a small tassel or a row of single crochet along the tie edges for extra definition.
Styling Ideas
The beauty of this top is its versatility. Tied high at the ribcage, it looks incredible with high-rise wide-leg trousers or a flowing maxi skirt. Left looser with a lower knot, it works over a bikini top as a beach coverup that is actually beautiful enough to wear to lunch. Layer it over a fitted turtleneck in autumn for a completely different vibe that still shows off those sleeves.
The bell sleeves tend to get the most attention, and rightfully so. Roll them up slightly for a slightly more casual look, or let them fall free for the full dramatic effect.
Troubleshooting and Tips
If your fabric is curling at the edges, this is common with hdc worked flat in cotton. Blocking will solve it almost entirely. If it persists after blocking, try a slightly larger hook.
If your waist shaping looks too dramatic or not dramatic enough, adjust how many rows you work between decrease rows. More rows between decreases equals subtler shaping; fewer rows means a more defined waist.
If the tie tails feel too floppy, work an additional row of sc along the edges of each tie for extra structure.
Cotton yarn is less forgiving about tension inconsistencies than wool, so if you notice your tension tightening when you concentrate or loosening when you relax, try to work in shorter sessions or take breaks between rows.
A Final Note
Garment crochet asks something of you that smaller projects do not. It asks you to trust the process across many hours and many rows, to keep going even when you are not sure the shape is right yet, to block and seam and wear something you built from a skein of yarn and a hook. That is not a small thing, and finishing a wearable piece should be celebrated properly.
This revised pattern was redesigned to make that journey as smooth as possible. The construction choices, the shaping sequences, the way the sleeves attach — every decision was made with a real crocheter working in real time in mind. So if something feels unclear or you get stuck, go back to the beginning of that section, check your stitch count, and keep going. You are more capable than you think, and this top is going to be worth every row.
Share your finished top if you make it. There is nothing more encouraging for a community of makers than seeing the same pattern brought to life in fifty different yarns and fifty different hands.
Happy crocheting.
