Free Crochet Open Back Dress Pattern: Step-by-Step Guide for a Stunning Summer Look

If you’ve been scrolling through Instagram or Pinterest lately, you’ve probably noticed that crochet dresses are having a serious moment. From boho beach weddings to rooftop birthday parties, the open back crochet dress has become one of the most sought-after handmade garments of the season. The best part? You don’t need to spend a small fortune on a boutique version. With some yarn, a hook, and a little patience, you can create a breathtaking open back crochet dress completely from scratch — and today, I’m walking you through every single step.

This free crochet open back dress pattern is designed with intermediate crocheters in mind, though adventurous beginners who are comfortable with basic stitches will find it approachable too. The design features an elegant open back secured with delicate crochet ties, a flattering fitted bodice, and a flowing skirt that can be made as short or as long as you like. Whether you want a mini dress for summer festivals or a maxi for a beach evening out, this pattern adapts beautifully.

Let’s dive in.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you cast on a single stitch, gather everything you need so you’re not hunting through your craft room mid-project.

Yarn: You’ll want approximately 800–1,200 yards of a lightweight yarn depending on your size and dress length. A size 2 or size 3 cotton yarn works best for this pattern. Cotton gives the dress structure, keeps it breathable in warm weather, and drapes beautifully. Popular choices include Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, or Drops Safran. If you want a slightly dressier look with a subtle sheen, try a cotton-linen blend.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook is ideal, though you should always swatch first and adjust accordingly.

Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and blocking mats and pins if you plan to block your finished piece (highly recommended for cotton garments).

Optional: A small amount of contrasting yarn if you’d like to add decorative edging in a second color.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge matters more for garments than almost anything else you’ll crochet, so please take the time to make a small swatch before starting.

Using a 3.5mm hook and your chosen yarn, crochet a 4-inch by 4-inch swatch in the stitch pattern described below. You should be hitting approximately 18 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches in single crochet. Adjust your hook size up or down until you match this gauge.

This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL with the following finished bust measurements:

XS: 30–32 inches
S: 33–35 inches
M: 36–38 inches
L: 39–41 inches
XL: 42–44 inches

Throughout the pattern, stitch counts are given for each size in the order XS/S/M/L/XL. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

Understanding the Construction

This dress is worked in two main pieces — a front bodice panel and a back bodice panel — which are then seamed at the shoulders and sides. The skirt is worked in the round, joined at the bottom edge of the bodice. The open back design is created simply by leaving the upper back open and adding long crochet ties that wrap around the neck and cross over the open back to fasten at the waist.

This construction method makes sizing and fitting very intuitive. You can try the bodice on as you go, and the flowing skirt worked in the round requires minimal shaping.

The Stitch Pattern

The main body of this dress uses a combination of single crochet and a simple mesh stitch to create texture and visual interest without overwhelming complexity. Here’s how the mesh stitch works:

Mesh Stitch (worked flat):
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, sc in next st; repeat from to end, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space; repeat from to last st, sc in last st, turn.

Repeat Row 2 for the pattern. This creates a lightweight, slightly open fabric that looks beautiful in cotton yarn and is perfect for a summer dress.

Front Bodice Panel

Foundation: Chain 68/74/80/86/92.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. You will have 67/73/79/85/91 sts. Turn.

Work in mesh stitch pattern for 2 inches, ending after a wrong side row.

Waist Shaping (decrease section):

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (65/71/77/83/89 sts)

Continue in pattern, repeating this decrease row every 4 rows twice more. (61/67/73/79/85 sts)

Work even in pattern for 1.5 inches.

Hip Shaping (increase section):

Increase Row: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, work in pattern to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (63/69/75/81/87 sts)

Repeat this increase row every 4 rows twice more. (67/73/79/85/91 sts)

Work even until piece measures 8 inches from foundation chain, ending after a wrong side row. This is the point where the bodice meets the skirt. Place a stitch marker at each edge to mark this joining row, then continue.

Bust Section:

Work even in pattern for 3.5 inches, ending after a wrong side row.

Armhole Shaping:

Bind off 5/5/6/6/7 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (57/63/67/73/77 sts)

Decrease 1 st at each edge every other row 3/3/4/4/5 times. (51/57/59/65/67 sts)

Work even until armhole measures 5/5.5/5.5/6/6 inches from bind off.

Neck Shaping:

Work across 17/19/20/22/22 sts, join a second ball of yarn and bind off center 17/19/19/21/23 sts, work to end. Working both shoulders simultaneously:

Decrease 1 st at each neck edge every row 3 times. (14/16/17/19/19 sts per shoulder)

Work even until armhole measures 7/7.5/7.5/8/8 inches. Fasten off.

Back Bodice Panel (Open Back Design)

This is where the magic of the open back design comes to life. The back panel is worked in two separate sections — a left back and a right back — creating the open space between them.

Left Back Panel:

Foundation: Chain 34/37/40/43/46.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (33/36/39/42/45 sts). Turn.

Work in mesh stitch pattern, incorporating the same waist and hip shaping as the front panel, but only working half the stitch count. The center back edge (the edge that faces the open back) remains straight with no shaping.

Work even until piece matches front bodice at armhole shaping point.

Armhole and Neck Shaping for Left Back:

Bind off 5/5/6/6/7 sts at the beginning of the next armhole-side row. Decrease 1 st at armhole edge every other row 3/3/4/4/5 times.

At the same time, begin neck shaping on the center back edge by decreasing 1 st every other row 5 times.

Work even on remaining 14/16/17/19/19 sts until armhole depth matches front. Fasten off.

Work Right Back Panel to mirror the Left Back Panel.

Assembling the Bodice

With a tapestry needle and matching yarn, seam the shoulder seams together using a whipstitch or mattress stitch, whichever you prefer. Then seam the side seams from the waist stitch markers down to the bottom edge, leaving the armholes open.

At this point, try the bodice on. The front should fit snugly across the bust, and the back panels should sit on either side of your spine with a beautiful open gap running up the center back. If the bodice feels too loose or too tight, now is the time to adjust before you attach the skirt.

Adding the Neckline and Armhole Edging

For a clean, polished finish, work a single round of single crochet around each armhole opening and around the front neckline. When you reach the open back edges, continue the edging down each center back edge as well. This creates a neat border and helps the fabric hold its shape.

The Open Back Ties

The ties are the defining detail of this pattern. They’re long chains of crochet that wrap around the neck in a halter style, cross at the open back for that iconic draped look, and tie at the waist.

To make each tie: Chain 150 (or longer if you prefer a bigger bow at the waist). Work 1 sc in each ch back across. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make two ties. Attach one to the top inside corner of the left back panel at the neck edge, and the other to the top inside corner of the right back panel at the neck edge. When worn, the ties cross up and over the shoulders, wrap around the neck, and then come back down to cross over the open back and tie at the waist. You can adjust how long you make these ties based on how you prefer them to sit on your body.

The Skirt

Now comes the satisfying part — the skirt, worked in the round from the bottom edge of the bodice downward.

With right side facing, join yarn at one of the side seam stitch markers. You’ll be picking up stitches all the way around the bottom edge of the bodice.

Pick up and single crochet evenly around the entire bottom edge of the bodice: approximately 134/146/158/170/182 sts total. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around, join.

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in first st, dc in each of next 8/9/10/11/12 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from around, join. (This adds slight flare to the skirt.)

Continue working in double crochet in the round, adding an increase round (2 dc in every 10th st) every 8 rounds until the skirt reaches your desired length. For a midi dress, you’ll want approximately 20–24 inches of skirt. For a maxi, aim for 30 or more inches.

Skirt Hem:

For the final 3 rounds of the skirt, switch to a shell stitch border for a delicate, feminine finish.

Shell Stitch Round: Ch 1, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from around, join.

Work this shell round twice more. Fasten off.

Finishing Your Dress

Weave in all remaining ends carefully using your tapestry needle. Pay special attention to the joints where the bodice meets the skirt and at any seam points — loose ends in these areas can unravel over time.

Blocking makes an enormous difference with cotton crochet garments. Fill a basin with cool water and a few drops of gentle wool wash or baby shampoo, submerge your dress, and let it soak for 20 minutes. Gently press out the water without wringing, roll the dress in a towel to absorb excess moisture, then lay flat on blocking mats. Pin the hem to open up the shell stitches and pin the bodice into shape. Allow to dry completely before wearing — usually 24 to 48 hours.

Styling Your Open Back Crochet Dress

The beauty of this dress is its versatility. For a beach or festival look, wear it over a matching swimsuit or bandeau with strappy sandals and layer on some wooden bead jewelry. For a more elevated evening look, line the bodice with a silky fabric or a seamless nude bralette, add heeled mules, and keep the accessories minimal to let the craftsmanship speak for itself.

The open back is the star of the show, so choose a hairstyle that shows it off — an updo, a loose braid pinned to one side, or a half-up style all work beautifully.

Tips for Success

Take your time with the ties. They’re simple to crochet but the length and placement matter for how the finished dress looks and feels on your body. Don’t be afraid to make them a few chains longer than the pattern suggests and trim or tie off the excess.

Swatch with the actual yarn you plan to use for the dress. Different cotton yarns behave quite differently even at the same weight, and an inch off in gauge over the bust can mean the difference between a dress that fits beautifully and one that doesn’t.

When picking up stitches for the skirt, work slowly and evenly. An uneven pick-up round will show up as puckering or rippling in the finished skirt, so patience here pays off.

If you’re a beginner who finds the bodice shaping intimidating, consider practicing the mesh stitch swatch for longer than usual to get truly comfortable with the rhythm before you start the garment.

Final Thoughts

There is something incredibly satisfying about wearing a garment you made with your own hands, and an open back crochet dress turns heads in a way that very few handmade items do. People will ask where you got it. You get to say you made it. That never gets old.

This free crochet open back dress pattern is meant to be a starting point — feel free to make it your own. Try a striped colorway for a retro vibe, add fringe to the hem for festival season, or swap the shell stitch border for a simple picot edge for something more refined. Crochet is at its best when it becomes a creative conversation between the pattern and the maker.

If you make this dress, share it! Tag your photos so others in the crochet community can see your version. Every variation is its own little masterpiece, and the community grows richer every time someone shares what they’ve made.

Happy crocheting.