Free Crochet Pattern: The Angles Tunic
There is something deeply satisfying about a garment that looks complex but is built from simple geometry. The Angles Tunic is exactly that — a wearable piece of crochet art that draws its visual interest from the interplay of diagonal lines, textured stitches, and thoughtful construction. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for your next project or an adventurous intermediate maker ready to level up, this pattern is designed to reward your effort with something you will reach for again and again.
In this post, you will find the complete free crochet pattern for the Angles Tunic, including materials, sizing notes, stitch explanations, and step-by-step instructions. Grab your hook, pour yourself a cup of something warm, and let’s get into it.
What Makes the Angles Tunic Special?
The Angles Tunic gets its name from the bold diagonal lines created by a combination of front post and back post stitches worked across the body panels. These angled ridges give the fabric a three-dimensional quality that looks intricate from a distance but is surprisingly meditative to work once you have the pattern memorized.
The silhouette is relaxed and slightly oversized, falling to hip or low-hip length depending on your gauge and chosen size. It works beautifully as a layering piece over a fitted long-sleeve shirt in cooler months, or on its own over high-waisted pants or a maxi skirt in warmer weather. The construction is worked in flat panels that are seamed together, which means you can easily try on the pieces as you go and adjust before committing to a final assembly.
The pattern is also beginner-friendly in terms of its stitch repertoire — if you know how to work a half double crochet, a front post double crochet, and a back post double crochet, you already have every technique this project requires. The magic is entirely in the arrangement.
Materials
To make the Angles Tunic, you will need the following:
Yarn: Approximately 800–1,400 yards of DK or light worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. The pattern works beautifully in a linen-cotton blend, a bamboo blend, or a smooth 100% cotton. These fibers give the tunic a lovely drape and make it breathable for three-season wear. Wool or acrylic blends are also fine, though they tend to produce a slightly cozier, more structured fabric.
Hook: US size I-9 / 5.5mm crochet hook, or the size needed to meet gauge. A smooth, ergonomic hook will be your friend on this project since you will be working post stitches throughout.
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, stitch markers (at least 4), scissors, and a tape measure.
Gauge: 14 stitches and 12 rows in the main stitch pattern equals 4 inches by 4 inches, measured after blocking. Gauge is important in a fitted garment like this, so please take the time to make a swatch.
Sizing
The Angles Tunic is written in six sizes:
Size 1 (XS): Finished bust 34–36 inches
Size 2 (S): Finished bust 37–39 inches
Size 3 (M): Finished bust 40–42 inches
Size 4 (L): Finished bust 43–46 inches
Size 5 (XL): Finished bust 47–50 inches
Size 6 (2XL): Finished bust 51–54 inches
The tunic is designed with 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it will be gently relaxed on the body. To choose your size, measure your actual bust circumference and select the size that gives you the amount of ease you prefer. If you like a more fitted look, size down one. If you prefer a very relaxed, drapey fit, size up.
Finished length from shoulder to hem is approximately 26–28 inches across all sizes, with length adjustments easy to make by adding or subtracting rows to the body panels before working the hem border.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
Before diving into the pattern, here is a quick reference for every abbreviation used:
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
FPdc — front post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, draw up a loop, complete as a double crochet
BPdc — back post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, draw up a loop, complete as a double crochet
sk — skip
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
The main stitch pattern, called the Angles Stitch, alternates FPdc and BPdc in a diagonal progression that shifts by one stitch every two rows. This is what creates the angled ridges. Once you have worked the pattern for about four inches, the visual logic will click and you will find yourself working it intuitively.
Pattern Notes
Read through the entire pattern before beginning. This will help you anticipate how the pieces fit together and where adjustments can be made.
The tunic is constructed in three main panels: a front panel, a back panel, and two sleeve panels. The front and back are identical in construction (with the exception of the neckline shaping on the front panel). The sleeve panels are worked as simple rectangles and attached at the shoulder seams before the side seams are closed.
Throughout the pattern, turning chains do not count as stitches. Always work the first stitch into the first stitch of the previous row.
When working post stitches, you are always wrapping around the post of the stitch two rows below. This means your row counts will feel slightly offset, which is normal and intentional.
The Angles Stitch Pattern (worked over a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 2)
Foundation Row (RS): Ch a multiple of 6 plus 4. Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, hdc across. Turn.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, hdc across. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, work 3 FPdc, work 3 BPdc; rep from to last 2 sts, hdc in last 2 sts. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in first st, work 3 BPdc, work 3 FPdc; rep from to last st, hdc in last st. Turn.
Row 4 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in first 2 sts, work 3 FPdc, work 3 BPdc; rep from across, ending with hdc if needed to finish row. Turn.
Row 5 (WS): Ch 2, work 3 BPdc, work 3 FPdc; rep from to last 2 sts, hdc in last 2 sts. Turn.
Row 6 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in first st, work 3 FPdc, work 3 BPdc; rep from to last st, hdc in last st. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1–6 for the Angles Stitch pattern. The one-stitch offset each pair of rows is what drives the diagonal movement. Be sure to track your row count with stitch markers.
Front Panel
Foundation: Ch 76 (82, 88, 94, 100, 106). Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across — 74 (80, 86, 92, 98, 104) sts. Turn.
Work in the Angles Stitch pattern as established until the piece measures 18 (18.5, 19, 19, 19.5, 19.5) inches from the foundation edge, ending with a WS row.
Neckline Shaping:
On the next RS row, work across the first 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43) sts in pattern. Place a marker. Join a second ball of yarn and work across the center 18 (18, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts, fasten off the second ball. Continue in pattern across the remaining 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43) sts.
You will now work both shoulder sections simultaneously or one at a time.
Left Shoulder: Continue in pattern on the first 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43) sts for 8 (8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9) inches more. Fasten off.
Right Shoulder: Reattach yarn to the right shoulder section and work to match the left. Fasten off.
Back Panel
Work exactly as the Front Panel, omitting the neckline shaping. Work the full 26 (26.5, 27.5, 27.5, 28.5, 28.5) inches in the Angles Stitch pattern from foundation to top edge without any shaping at the center. Fasten off.
Sleeve Panels (make 2)
Foundation: Ch 46 (46, 52, 52, 58, 58). Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, hdc across — 44 (44, 50, 50, 56, 56) sts. Turn.
Work in the Angles Stitch pattern for 7 (7, 7.5, 7.5, 8, 8) inches. Fasten off.
The sleeve panels are intentionally short, creating a relaxed cap sleeve effect. If you prefer a three-quarter or full-length sleeve, continue working the sleeve panel to your desired length, increasing by 1 stitch at each end every 6 rows to shape the sleeve.
Assembly
Lay your front and back panels flat and block them gently to your finished measurements before assembling. This step makes seaming much easier and ensures the finished tunic will have clean, even edges.
Shoulder Seams: With RS together, align the top edge of the front shoulder sections to the top edge of the back panel. The back panel will be wider at the top since it has no neckline cutout. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch or mattress stitch the shoulder seams closed across the width of each shoulder section.
Attaching Sleeves: Find the center top of each sleeve panel. Match this center point to the shoulder seam. Pin in place. Sew the sleeve panel to the body, working outward from the center in each direction. The sleeve should extend equally toward the front and back.
Side and Sleeve Seams: Fold the tunic with RS together so that the front and back are aligned. Starting at the bottom hem, sew the side seams upward. When you reach the underarm, continue sewing the sleeve seam if applicable. Leave the lower hem and sleeve cuffs open.
Hem and Neckline Borders
Hem Border: With RS facing, join yarn at any point along the bottom hem edge. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire hem. Join with a sl st, then work 1 round of reverse sc (also called crab stitch) for a tidy, non-curling edge. Fasten off.
Neckline Border: With RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neckline. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire neckline opening, working approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows along the vertical sides and 1 st per stitch along the horizontal bound-off edges. Join with a sl st. Work 1 round of reverse sc. Fasten off.
Sleeve Edges: If you added length to the sleeves, finish the cuffs in the same way as the hem — one round of sc followed by one round of reverse sc.
Blocking and Finishing
Wet blocking is highly recommended for this pattern, especially if you used a plant-based fiber. Soak the finished tunic in cool water for 15–20 minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water (do not wring), roll in a towel to remove more moisture, then lay flat and pin to your finished measurements. Allow to dry completely before wearing or photographing.
Weave in all ends securely, burying them in the posts of nearby stitches to prevent unraveling.
Customization Ideas
One of the joys of a pattern like this is how easily it lends itself to personalization. Here are a few ideas to make this tunic entirely your own.
You could add a deep side slit at the hem by simply leaving the last few inches of each side seam open. This gives the tunic a flowy, breezy feel perfect for warm weather.
Consider working a contrast color for the hem and neckline borders. Even a single round of a coordinating shade can add a polished, intentional finishing touch.
If you prefer a V-neck silhouette, you can deepen the neckline shaping on the front panel by beginning the split earlier and working the center decrease more gradually over several rows.
Adding a simple button band to one shoulder seam transforms this tunic into an accessible design for anyone who finds it difficult to pull a garment over their head.
Yarn Suggestions
For a lightweight summer version, try a linen-cotton blend or a 100% cotton DK weight. These fibers show stitch definition beautifully and get softer with every wash.
For a year-round wearable version, a bamboo blend or Tencel yarn adds incredible drape and sheen. These materials also have natural temperature-regulating properties that make the tunic comfortable across seasons.
If you want a cozy fall-into-winter tunic, a merino wool or a merino-alpaca blend gives the Angles Stitch a lofty, rich texture that photographs and wears beautifully.
A Few Words on Post Stitches
If you have not worked many post stitches before, this pattern is a wonderful introduction. The key to neat FPdc and BPdc is to make sure your hook fully encircles the post of the target stitch rather than splitting the yarn. Slow down on your first few rows until the motion becomes familiar.
Some crocheters find that post stitches pull the work slightly tighter than standard stitches. If your swatch is coming out narrower than expected even after going up a hook size, try consciously relaxing your tension as you wrap around the post. The fabric should have a gentle spring to it, not feel stiff or dense.
Final Thoughts
The Angles Tunic is the kind of pattern that earns its place in your regular rotation. It works up quickly once the stitch pattern clicks, it looks far more impressive than the skill level required, and the finished garment is genuinely versatile. Whether you make it in a crisp white cotton for summer, a deep jewel-toned merino for autumn, or a neutral linen blend that goes with everything, this tunic will be something you are genuinely proud to wear.
If you make this pattern, I would love to see it. Share your finished tunic and tag it so the community can admire your work. And if you have questions as you work through the steps, drop them in the comments below — this pattern has been tested and refined, but every maker’s hands are different, and I am always happy to help troubleshoot.
Happy crocheting, and enjoy every diagonal stitch.
