Budding Hem Skirt: A Free Crochet Pattern You’ll Want to Make Right Now

There’s something deeply satisfying about finishing a wearable crochet project — pulling it off the hook, slipping it on, and realizing it looks exactly the way you imagined it in your head. The Budding Hem Skirt is one of those projects. With its delicate floral hem, structured waistband, and flattering silhouette, this skirt has become a favorite for crocheters who want something that feels both handcrafted and polished enough to wear out in the world.

This free crochet pattern walks you through every step of making your own Budding Hem Skirt, from choosing your yarn and hook to finishing the waistband and adding the decorative bud edging at the hem. Whether you’re an intermediate crocheter looking for a satisfying weekend project or a confident beginner ready to level up, this pattern is designed to be approachable without feeling oversimplified.

Let’s get into it.

What Makes the Budding Hem Skirt Special

The defining feature of this skirt is its hem. Instead of a plain edging or a simple shell stitch border, the Budding Hem uses a repeating floral bud motif that gives the bottom of the skirt a soft, organic look — like something just beginning to bloom. The buds sit closely together, creating a dense decorative band that adds weight to the hem in the best possible way. It helps the skirt drape well and keeps it from flying up in the wind, which is always a practical bonus.

Above the hem, the body of the skirt is worked in a clean, slightly open stitch pattern that offers breathability without being so lacy that you’d need a slip underneath for coverage. The waistband is worked last with an elastic casing, making it comfortable and adjustable for different body shapes.

The overall silhouette is a midi-length A-line. The skirt flares gently from the waist, giving it movement and ease of wear without the structure of a fitted pencil skirt. It’s the kind of piece you can dress up with sandals and a linen blouse or keep casual with a simple tucked-in tee.

Materials and Tools

Before you cast on — or rather, chain up — here’s everything you’ll need.

Yarn: Approximately 800–1,200 yards of DK weight yarn, depending on your size. Cotton or a cotton blend works beautifully for this project because it drapes well, holds the stitch definition of the budding hem, and feels comfortable against the skin. A yarn with some body to it will help the hem buds stand out. Avoid anything too fuzzy or loosely spun, as it will obscure the detail in the motif stitch.

Hook: US size E/3.5mm or F/3.75mm. Swatch first to find your comfortable tension. The fabric should feel slightly firm but not stiff — you want it to have drape without looking sloppy.

Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, a measuring tape, a length of elastic (either ¾ inch or 1 inch wide, cut to your waist measurement plus about an inch for overlap), and a safety pin or bodkin to thread the elastic through the waistband casing.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 20 rows equal 4 inches in the main body stitch pattern. Gauge matters for wearables, so please take time to swatch. A skirt that’s even an inch off gauge can end up dramatically larger or smaller than intended.

Sizing

This pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL. Here are the finished hip measurements for each size:

XS — 34 inches, S — 37 inches, M — 40 inches, L — 43 inches, XL — 46 inches, 2XL — 50 inches, 3XL — 54 inches.

The finished skirt length from waistband to hem is approximately 24 inches, which falls at or just below the knee for most people. If you’d like to adjust the length, you can add or subtract rows in the body section. Just remember that each row adds approximately ¼ inch to the total length, and if you go significantly longer, you may want to increase your yardage estimate.

The waistband is worked with elastic, so it will stretch to fit a range of waist measurements. If you’re between sizes, size up.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
sk — skip
st — stitch
beg — beginning
pm — place marker
BLO — back loop only

Pattern Notes

This skirt is worked in the round from the waist down. The body section is worked in joined rounds, and the hem is worked as a separate edging attached to the final round of the body. The waistband is added after the body is complete.

Working in the round means you’ll have a right side facing you at all times, which makes it easy to see your stitch pattern and check your work as you go.

When working the budding hem, it helps to mark the beginning of each repeat with a stitch marker until you’re confident in the rhythm of the pattern. The repeat is only six stitches wide, so it becomes intuitive quickly.

Join all rounds with a slip stitch to the first stitch unless the pattern notes otherwise. Chain counts at the beginning of a round count as the first stitch as indicated in the pattern.

The Pattern

Part One: Starting Chain and Foundation Round

Begin by chaining a foundation chain to the appropriate stitch count for your size. Alternatively, you can use a foundation single crochet method, which creates a stretchier starting edge and works especially well for this skirt since the waistband will be added later.

Foundation chain counts (these include the turning chain):
XS — 154, S — 168, M — 182, L — 196, XL — 210, 2XL — 228, 3XL — 246

Join the chain into a ring with a slip stitch to the first chain, being careful not to twist the chain. This is your foundation round.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each ch around, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. — [XS: 153 dc, S: 167 dc, M: 181 dc, L: 195 dc, XL: 209 dc, 2XL: 227 dc, 3XL: 245 dc]

Note: The stitch counts are intentional multiples for the body pattern repeat. Double check your count before moving on.

Part Two: Body Section

The body of the skirt is worked in a simple mesh-style half double crochet pattern that creates a light, airy fabric with good drape. It’s easy to memorize and works up quickly once you get the rhythm.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc.

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1; rep from around, end with ch 1, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3.

Round 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st and each ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first hdc.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 until the body measures approximately 20 inches from the starting chain, or your desired length minus 4 inches (which you’ll reserve for the hem edging). End on a Round 4 (hdc round).

For a 24-inch finished length, you’ll work approximately 38–40 rounds total in the body section, but measure as you go rather than counting rounds alone, since individual tension can affect row height.

Part Three: The Budding Hem

This is where the skirt gets its name and its distinctive look. The budding hem is worked as an attached edging directly onto the final round of the body. It uses a combination of single crochet, chains, treble crochets, and slip stitches to create rounded bud shapes that cluster together along the hem.

The pattern repeat is 6 stitches. Before you begin the hem, confirm that your stitch count is divisible by 6. If you need to adjust by a stitch or two, do so evenly around the last round of the body.

Hem Round 1: With right side facing, join yarn to any hdc with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.

Hem Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from around, end with ch 4, join with sl st to first sc. (You should have a multiple of 3 ch-4 spaces around.)

Hem Round 3 (Bud Round): This round creates the bud shapes. Sl st into first ch-4 sp. [Ch 3, 4 tr, ch 3, sl st] all in same ch-4 sp (this forms one bud), sl st in next ch-4 sp; rep from around, working last bud in final ch-4 sp, join with sl st to base of first bud.

Hem Round 4: Ch 1, working behind the buds from the previous round, sc in each skipped sc from Hem Round 2, ch 5, sc in next skipped sc from Hem Round 2; rep from around, join with sl st to first sc. This round creates a second layer of arches behind the first row of buds.

Hem Round 5 (Second Bud Round): Sl st into first ch-5 sp. [Ch 3, 5 tr, ch 3, sl st] all in same ch-5 sp (this forms a slightly larger bud), sl st in next ch-5 sp; rep from around, join with sl st to base of first bud.

Fasten off and weave in ends. The hem should have two staggered rows of buds — a smaller row close to the body and a larger, fuller row along the outermost edge. The effect is layered and dimensional, like a garden border just coming into bloom.

Part Four: Waistband

The waistband is worked directly onto the starting chain edge of the skirt, adding both structure and comfort. It creates a small casing through which you’ll thread your elastic.

With right side facing, attach yarn to the starting chain edge at any point.

Waistband Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around the top edge of the skirt, working into the starting chain or foundation row. Join with sl st to first sc.

Waistband Rounds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each sc around, join with sl st to first sc.

Waistband Round 4 (Casing Round): Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st; rep from around, join with sl st to first sc. The ch-1 skipped spaces will become the openings for threading your elastic.

Waistband Rounds 5–6: Ch 1, sc in each st and each ch-1 sp around, join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for any seaming needed. Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread your elastic through the ch-1 spaces in Round 4 all the way around. Overlap the ends of the elastic by about an inch and sew them securely together. Distribute the fabric evenly over the elastic. You can tack the elastic down at a few points around the waistband to keep it from bunching or twisting inside the casing.

Finishing Touches

Weave in all remaining ends carefully. The budding hem has a few ends from where the yarn was joined, so take your time here. For cotton yarn, ends need to be woven in with care since cotton doesn’t felt or grip the way wool does.

Blocking your finished skirt makes a significant difference, especially in the hem section. Wet block by submerging the finished skirt in cool water, gently pressing out the excess water without wringing, and laying the skirt flat on a blocking mat or clean towel. Pin the hem buds gently outward to open them up and give them their fullest shape. Let dry completely before wearing or storing.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about this pattern is how adaptable it is. Here are a few ways to make it your own.

If you want a more dramatic hem, you can repeat the bud sequence one more time after Hem Round 5, working a third row of even larger buds using ch-4 at the beginning and end of each bud cluster and adding 6 treble crochets instead of 5. This creates a cascading, tiered effect that’s especially striking in a solid color yarn.

For a color-blocked version, work the body in one color and switch to a contrasting color for the entire hem section. Deep burgundy with a cream hem, or olive green with a terracotta hem, both look stunning with this stitch pattern.

You can also adjust the skirt length easily. For a mini length, work only about 10 inches of body before beginning the hem. For a maxi, continue the body section until it reaches approximately 36 inches before adding the hem. A maxi version is especially beautiful in a lightweight linen-blend yarn.

Yarn Recommendations

For a beginner-friendly cotton option, look for a smooth DK weight cotton with a tight twist — this will give the buds their clearest definition. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton and Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton are both widely available and come in a gorgeous range of colors. If you’re willing to splurge a little, Paintbox’s Cotton DK and Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima are excellent choices with a beautiful drape and a wide color selection.

If you’d prefer a blend, a cotton-acrylic or cotton-linen mix adds a bit of stretch and recovery that pure cotton lacks, making the skirt a little more forgiving to wear and easier to maintain.

Care Instructions

If you used a cotton or cotton-blend yarn, this skirt is typically machine washable on a gentle, cold cycle. Lay flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, which can cause cotton to shrink. Store folded rather than hung to prevent the skirt from stretching out over time.

A Note on Fit

Crochet skirts fit differently from sewn or knit garments, and it’s worth knowing this going in. Crochet fabric has less inherent stretch than knitting, so ease is important. If you’re between sizes or have a larger hip-to-waist ratio, size up and let the elastic do its job at the waist. The A-line shape of this skirt means that as long as it fits over your hips, the waist will gather beautifully.

If you’re adjusting for a petite or tall frame, the body section is the easiest place to make length changes. Add or subtract in pairs of rounds (one mesh round and one hdc round) to keep the pattern consistent.

Final Thoughts

The Budding Hem Skirt is the kind of project that earns compliments — the kind where people ask if you made it, and when you say yes, they look genuinely surprised that something so pretty came from a hook and a ball of yarn. That reaction never gets old.

What makes this pattern particularly rewarding is the way it builds. The body section is meditative and quick, giving your hands something to do while your mind rests. Then the hem arrives and asks you to slow down, pay attention, and enjoy the process of building something intricate row by row. By the time you’re threading your elastic and trying it on for the first time, you’ve made something that’s entirely yours.

Share your finished skirt in your favorite crochet community and tag it so others can find the pattern. Seeing this design made up in different colors and yarns is one of the best parts of sharing a free pattern — every version brings out something new in the design.

Happy crocheting.