Crochet Midi Skirt Free Written Pattern: Step-by-Step Guide for All Skill Levels

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet inspiration boards lately, you’ve probably noticed that crochet midi skirts are having a serious moment. There’s something undeniably elegant about a handmade skirt that flows beautifully, fits your body perfectly, and didn’t cost you more than a few skeins of yarn. The best part? You can make one yourself with this free written pattern, even if you’re a beginner who’s still getting comfortable holding a hook.

This pattern walks you through every step of creating a flattering, flowy crochet midi skirt from the waistband down to the hem. It’s worked in the round from the top down, which means you can try it on as you go and customize the length and fit to your body. Whether you want a casual boho piece for summer or a layered transitional skirt for fall, this design adapts beautifully to your yarn and color choices.

Let’s dive in.

What You’ll Need Before You Start

Getting your materials together before you cast on saves so much frustration later. Here’s what this pattern calls for.

Yarn: Approximately 800 to 1,200 yards of DK or light worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. Cotton or a cotton-blend yarn is highly recommended for this project because it drapes beautifully, washes well, and keeps you cool in warm weather. Paintbox Simply DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and Scheepjes Cahlista are all lovely options. For a warmer or cozier skirt, a light merino wool blend also works well.

Hook: US Size H/5mm crochet hook. Adjust as needed to match gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, a measuring tape, and either 1 to 1.5 inches of elastic cut to your waist measurement, or a length of ribbon for the waistband tie.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet. Take the time to swatch. I know everyone says that and no one wants to do it, but getting your gauge right on a garment makes the difference between a skirt that fits and one that doesn’t.

Sizing Information

This pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL. The finished waist measurements are listed below. The skirt has a few inches of positive ease, meaning it’s meant to be slightly larger than your actual waist measurement for comfort and wearability.

XS: 26–28 inch waist, finished measurement 29 inches
S: 29–31 inch waist, finished measurement 32 inches
M: 32–34 inch waist, finished measurement 35 inches
L: 35–37 inch waist, finished measurement 38 inches
XL: 38–40 inch waist, finished measurement 42 inches
2XL: 41–44 inch waist, finished measurement 46 inches
3XL: 45–48 inch waist, finished measurement 50 inches

The length of this skirt is written to approximately 27 inches from the waistband to the hem, which lands at a midi length on most people. You can easily adjust this by adding or subtracting rounds before the border.

Throughout this pattern, instructions for sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL are given in parentheses after the XS size where they differ.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
sp — space
st — stitch
rep — repeat
rnd — round
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only

Stitch Notes and Pattern Notes

This skirt is worked in joined rounds from the top down. Unless otherwise noted, do not turn your work between rounds.

The waistband is worked first as a ribbed rectangle, which is then seamed and attached to the body of the skirt. This creates a stretchy, fitted waistband that hugs your waist comfortably.

The body of the skirt uses a combination of half double crochet and a simple lace mesh pattern to create texture and visual interest. It has a gentle A-line shape, achieved by adding increase rounds periodically as you work downward.

If you prefer a straighter silhouette, you can skip the increase rounds entirely. If you want more flare, you can add extra increase rounds.

Part One: The Waistband

The waistband is worked flat in rows and then seamed to create a tube. Working it in the back loop only creates a beautiful ribbed texture that stretches comfortably.

Foundation Chain: Chain 12.

Row 1: Hdc in the third chain from the hook and in each chain across. (10 hdc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in BLO across. (10 hdc) Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your ribbed strip measures the following length when gently stretched:

XS: 29 inches
S: 32 inches
M: 35 inches
L: 38 inches
XL: 42 inches
2XL: 46 inches
3XL: 50 inches

Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.

Seam the waistband: Fold the strip so that the two short ends meet. Using your long tail and a yarn needle, whipstitch the two ends together to form a tube. You should have a neat, stretchy ribbed ring.

Thread elastic or ribbon: If using elastic, thread it through the inside of the waistband tube before seaming, overlapping the ends of the elastic and sewing them together securely. If using ribbon, leave the seam open slightly at the center back and thread the ribbon through the waistband to tie at the front or back.

Part Two: Setting Up the Body

Now you’ll join your yarn to the waistband and begin working the body of the skirt in rounds.

With the RS facing, join yarn to any stitch along the long bottom edge of the waistband with a sl st. You will be crocheting into the row ends along the bottom edge of the ribbing.

Setup Round: Ch 1, sc evenly around the bottom edge of the waistband, placing the following number of sc stitches:

XS: 100 sc
S: 112 sc
M: 122 sc
L: 132 sc
XL: 146 sc
2XL: 160 sc
3XL: 174 sc

Join with a sl st to the first sc. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Move this marker up with each new round.

Part Three: The Body of the Skirt

The body is worked in a combination of hdc rounds and lace rounds. The lace section creates an airy, feminine texture that makes the skirt feel light and flowy rather than heavy.

Rounds 1–4: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch throughout), hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (Same stitch count as setup round)

Round 5 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from around, ending with hdc in remaining sts. Join with sl st to first hdc.

New stitch counts after Round 5:
XS: 120
S: 134
M: 146
L: 158
XL: 175
2XL: 192
3XL: 208

Rounds 6–9: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 10 (Lace Round): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from around. Join with sl st to third ch of beginning ch-4.

Round 11: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2; rep from around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Round 12: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Rounds 13–16: Ch 2, hdc in each st and ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st.

Note: When working hdc across a lace round, work into both the dc stitches and the ch-1 spaces to maintain your stitch count. If you find you’re off by a stitch or two, adjust evenly at the end of the round — this is normal and doesn’t affect the finished fabric.

Round 17 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from around. Join with sl st.

New stitch counts after Round 17:
XS: 140
S: 156
M: 170
L: 184
XL: 204
2XL: 224
3XL: 242

Rounds 18–21: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 22 (Lace Round): Repeat Round 10.

Round 23: Repeat Round 11.

Round 24: Repeat Round 12.

Rounds 25–28: Ch 2, hdc in each st and ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st.

Round 29 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from around. Join with sl st.

New stitch counts after Round 29:
XS: 160
S: 182
M: 196
L: 212
XL: 232
2XL: 256
3XL: 274

Rounds 30–33: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 34 (Lace Round): Repeat Round 10.

Round 35: Repeat Round 11.

Round 36: Repeat Round 12.

Rounds 37–40: Ch 2, hdc in each st and ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st.

Round 41 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from around. Join with sl st.

New stitch counts after Round 41:
XS: 180
S: 208
M: 224
L: 238
XL: 261
2XL: 288
3XL: 308

Rounds 42–50: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

At this point, your skirt should measure approximately 20 to 22 inches from the bottom of the waistband. Continue working even hdc rounds until the skirt measures about 24 inches, or your desired length minus 3 inches for the border.

Part Four: The Hem Border

The hem border adds a pretty scalloped finish that gives the skirt a polished, professional look. It works up quickly and makes the whole project feel complete.

Border Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Border Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell made), skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts; rep from around, ending with 2 dc in the same st as your beginning ch-3. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Border Round 3: Sl st into center of first shell, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sc in center of next shell; rep from around, ch 3. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If your total stitch count doesn’t divide evenly by 6 for the shell border, adjust by adding or removing 1–3 stitches in Border Round 1 to make the math work out. A difference of a few stitches at this point in the pattern won’t affect the fit of the skirt.

Finishing

Weave in all remaining ends using your yarn needle. It helps to weave in different directions for security, especially at the waistband seam.

Give your skirt a gentle hand wash in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle detergent. Press out the excess water carefully without wringing, then lay it flat on a clean towel and reshape it. Let it dry completely before wearing or blocking further.

If your skirt feels stiff after drying (especially if you used 100% cotton), give it a light steam block to soften the fabric and encourage drape. Hold your iron a couple of inches above the surface and let the steam do the work — don’t press directly onto the crochet.

Tips for Customizing This Pattern

One of the best things about making your own garments is the ability to make them truly yours. Here are a few ideas for personalizing this skirt.

Add a slit: After completing the skirt body, use a small pair of scissors to snip two chains at the hem on one side and work a few rounds of sc around the opening to reinforce it. This creates a chic thigh slit.

Change the texture: Swap out the hdc body sections for moss stitch, linen stitch, or even a simple granny stripe for a totally different look. Just make sure your stitch substitution keeps the same stitch count and gauge.

Play with color: Work the lace rounds in a contrasting color for a boho tiered effect. This looks especially beautiful in earthy tones like sage, terracotta, and cream together.

Lengthen it into a maxi: Simply continue adding increase rounds and plain hdc rounds until you reach your desired length. Add an extra lace section for every 8 to 10 inches you add.

Layer it up: Wear this skirt over bike shorts or a slip for a modest and comfortable everyday look, or layer it over a swimsuit as a stylish beach cover-up.

Common Questions and Troubleshooting

My gauge is off — what should I do? If your swatch is too dense and small, go up a hook size. If it’s too loose and large, go down a hook size. Adjust your starting stitch count if needed to match your target measurement.

The skirt is twisting as I work — is something wrong? A slight twist in joined rounds is normal, especially in the early rounds. As long as you’re working in a consistent direction and joining cleanly, the twist will usually relax after washing and blocking.

How do I know when to stop adding length? Put the skirt on over the waistband (or hold it up to your body) and check where the hem falls. A midi length typically lands between the knee and the ankle, usually around mid-calf. Work to your preferred length.

Can I make this skirt without the lace sections? Absolutely. You can work the entire body in plain hdc rounds, just adding the increase rounds at the same intervals. This creates a more solid, structured fabric.

A Note on Yarn Substitutions

If you can’t find the specific yarn brands mentioned above, look for something in the DK to light worsted weight range with good drape. Yarns with a high cotton or bamboo content tend to work best for skirts because they have natural weight that helps the fabric hang well. Avoid bulky acrylics for this project, as they tend to add stiffness and visual bulk rather than flow.

If you’re substituting yarn, always check the yardage rather than just the weight. A skirt uses significantly more yarn than most people expect, so buy an extra skein just in case. Running out of yarn mid-project is one of the most frustrating things that can happen, and an extra skein is always better than an unfinished project sitting in your craft room for six months.

Final Thoughts

Making your own crochet midi skirt is one of those projects that feels genuinely transformative. There’s something powerful about wearing a garment you made with your own hands, stitch by stitch, in exactly the size and color you chose. This pattern is designed to be accessible enough for someone in their first year of crocheting while still offering enough texture and detail to keep a more experienced maker engaged.

Take your time with it.