Crochet Tennis Skirt | Free Pattern
There is something wonderfully satisfying about making your own activewear. When you pick up your hook and work a skirt from the first chain stitch all the way to the finished hem, you end up with something that fits your body, matches your personal style, and carries the quiet pride of handmade clothing. The crochet tennis skirt has become one of the most popular wardrobe pieces in the fiber arts community over the last few years, and for good reason. It sits at the intersection of sporty and feminine, works beautifully in cotton or cotton-blend yarn, and comes together faster than you might expect. Whether you want to wear it on the court, pair it with a bodysuit for a summer outing, or layer it over leggings for a casual weekend look, this skirt delivers every time.
This free pattern is written for a beginner-friendly skill level with some basic stitches, though crocheters of every experience level will find it comfortable to work. You will need to know how to make a magic ring, work in the round, perform single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and chain stitches. If you are newer to crochet and any of those terms feel unfamiliar, there are quick tutorials for each one available on YouTube, and you can always come back to this pattern once you have practiced them.
Let us get into everything you need to bring this skirt to life.
Materials and Tools
Before you cast on your first stitch, gather everything you will need. Having your supplies ready keeps the creative flow going without interruptions.
Yarn: The best choice for a tennis skirt is a smooth, lightweight yarn with good stitch definition. A DK weight or light worsted cotton yarn works beautifully here. Cotton has the breathability you want in activewear, it holds its shape well, and it gives a crisp finish to textured stitches. If you prefer a little stretch and softness, look for a cotton-acrylic blend or a cotton-spandex blend. You will need approximately 350 to 500 yards depending on your size. Choose any color that speaks to you — classic white is forever chirt chic, but dusty rose, sage green, cobalt, and butter yellow are all gorgeous options.
Hook: A 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm crochet hook is the standard recommendation for DK weight cotton. Always swatch before you begin and adjust your hook size up or down to match the gauge.
Notions: You will need a measuring tape, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and stitch markers to keep track of your rounds. A length of 1-inch wide elastic for the waistband is also required — typically 24 to 32 inches depending on your waist measurement, plus a safety pin to thread it through.
Gauge: 16 stitches and 10 rows equal 4 inches in half double crochet using a 4.0 mm hook. Gauge is important in garment making, so please take the time to make a swatch and block it before beginning. A swatch that is off by even half a stitch per inch can result in a skirt that is several inches too large or too small.
Sizing
This pattern is written in sizes XS through 3XL. The skirt is worked from the waistband down, which makes it easy to customize the length as you go.
Finished waist measurements (before elastic):
XS: 26 inches | S: 30 inches | M: 34 inches | L: 38 inches | XL: 42 inches | 2XL: 46 inches | 3XL: 50 inches
The skirt length as written measures approximately 13 to 15 inches from waist to hem. If you prefer a longer skirt, simply continue adding rows until you reach your desired length before working the ruffle.
For the most accurate fit, measure your natural waist or the area where you want the skirt to sit, then choose the size that most closely matches. Because the elastic waistband draws the fabric in, having a little extra ease in the waistband channel is perfectly fine.
Pattern Notes
Read through the entire pattern before beginning. This is a good habit with any garment project and will save you from surprises later on.
The skirt body is worked in joined rounds from the top down. You will begin with the waistband channel, then work through the body of the skirt, and finish with a flirty ruffle at the hem. The ruffle is created by working multiple stitches into a single stitch, which fans the fabric outward naturally. This is the detail that gives the tennis skirt its signature playful silhouette.
All chains at the beginning of a round count as a stitch unless otherwise noted. Place your stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. This keeps you from losing your place when the rounds start to blur together.
Abbreviations used in this pattern: ch (chain), sl st (slip stitch), sc (single crochet), hdc (half double crochet), dc (double crochet), st (stitch), sp (space), rep (repeat), rnd (round), beg (beginning), yo (yarn over).
The Pattern
Waistband Channel
The waistband of a crochet tennis skirt needs to be sturdy enough to hold elastic without stretching out of shape over time. Working the channel in single crochet creates a dense, stable fabric that does the job perfectly.
Begin with a foundation chain. The number of chains you start with determines the circumference of your skirt waist. For the size you are making, chain the following:
XS: chain 100 | S: chain 116 | M: chain 132 | L: chain 148 | XL: chain 164 | 2XL: chain 180 | 3XL: chain 196
Join with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring, being careful not to twist your chain.
Rounds 1 through 6: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch here), single crochet in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet. (stitch count matches your starting chain throughout)
At the end of round 6, do not fasten off. You will fold this section in half and join it to create the casing for your elastic. But hold that step for now — you will come back to it once the skirt is finished, making it easy to thread and adjust the elastic.
Skirt Body
This is where the skirt starts to take its shape. The body is worked in a combination of half double crochet and simple mesh lace rows that add lightness and visual interest without making the pattern overly complicated.
Round 7: Chain 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-2. (same stitch count as waistband)
Round 8: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-2.
Round 9 (increase round): Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in next 4 stitches; repeat from around. Join. (increases total stitch count by approximately 20%)
Rounds 10 and 11: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 12 (lace round): Chain 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip 1 stitch, dc in next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st to 3rd chain of beginning ch-4.
Round 13: Chain 1, sc in same stitch, sc in ch-1 space, sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 space; repeat from around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 14: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 15: Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, hdc in next 5 stitches; repeat from around. Join.
Round 16: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 17 (lace round): Repeat round 12.
Round 18: Repeat round 13.
Rounds 19 and 20: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
At this point your skirt body should measure approximately 8 to 9 inches from the top of the waistband. If you want a longer skirt, continue in the half double crochet and occasional lace round pattern until you reach your desired length, keeping in mind that the ruffle will add another 3 to 4 inches.
The Ruffle
This is the moment the skirt transforms from a simple tube into something genuinely beautiful. The ruffle is worked by increasing dramatically around the hem, which causes the fabric to fan outward and create that iconic layered tennis skirt look.
Round 21 (ruffle increase): Chain 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same stitch, 3 dc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.
You will notice immediately that the fabric begins to ruffle and wave. This is exactly what you want.
Round 22: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 23: Chain 3, 2 dc in same stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join.
Round 24: Chain 1, sc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 25 (final ruffle edge): Chain 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip 2 stitches, dc in next stitch, ch 2, skip 2 stitches, dc in next stitch; repeat from around. Ch 2, join with sl st to 3rd chain of beginning ch-5.
Fasten off and weave in the end from this last round. The picot-style mesh edge gives the hem a delicate, finished look.
Finishing the Waistband
Now it is time to close the elastic casing. Cut a length of 1-inch elastic to your comfortable waist measurement plus about half an inch for overlap. Fold the waistband section in half so that round 6 meets the beginning of round 7, creating a tube. Use a safety pin to thread the elastic through this tube all the way around. Overlap the ends of the elastic by about half an inch and sew them securely together with a needle and thread or your sewing machine. Then close the casing by slip stitching or whip stitching the folded edge down to round 7 all the way around, encasing the elastic completely. This creates a clean, smooth waistband that sits comfortably at any point on your torso.
Weave in all remaining ends. Give your skirt a light blocking if needed — pinning it to its measurements on a foam mat and misting it with water will help the lace rounds open up beautifully and encourage the ruffle to lay in a pretty, even wave.
Tips for Customizing Your Crochet Tennis Skirt
One of the most joyful aspects of making your own clothing is that you have complete control over the final product. Here are some ways to make this pattern entirely your own.
Color: This pattern looks stunning in a single color, but it also lends itself beautifully to color blocking. You could work the waistband and body in white and switch to a bold color for the ruffle. Alternatively, try working each lace round in a contrasting color for a subtle stripe effect that pops without overwhelming.
Length: As mentioned above, adding rounds to the body section is simple. A midi-length version of this skirt that falls below the knee is a gorgeous option for anyone who prefers more coverage, and the ruffle translates perfectly to a longer silhouette. Just remember to account for the additional yarn you will need.
Embellishments: Small crochet flowers, a ribbon threaded through the lace rounds, or even a simple chain belt looped through the mesh row can add personality without any complicated technique. A row of shell stitches along the hem instead of the mesh edge is another lovely option for a more romantic feel.
Layering: Many crocheters choose to wear a pair of bike shorts or biker shorts underneath their crochet skirt, which is traditional for athletic-style skirts and adds modesty. You can also make a simple crochet undershort in matching yarn for a fully handmade look.
Caring for Your Crochet Tennis Skirt
Cotton yarn is generally machine washable, but always check the label of your specific yarn before tossing your finished skirt into the wash. Most cotton and cotton-blend yarns do well on a gentle or delicate cycle with cold water. Lay the skirt flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, which can cause the elastic to degrade faster and may cause the crochet fabric to lose its shape over time. A flat dry preserves the drape and the integrity of the stitch work.
Store your skirt folded rather than hung, as hanging can stretch the waistband and distort the shape of the fabric over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different weight yarn? Yes. If you use a fingering weight yarn, your stitch count will increase and your finished skirt will have a more delicate, lacy drape. If you go up to a worsted weight, your stitch count will decrease and the skirt will be chunkier and warmer. Always adjust your hook size and re-swatch when changing yarn weight, and recalculate your starting chain based on your new gauge.
What if I am between sizes? Go up to the larger size. You can always draw in extra fabric with the elastic, but you cannot add fabric that is not there. A slightly larger waistband with the elastic adjusted to your measurement will fit comfortably.
How long will this project take? Most crocheters working at a steady pace complete this skirt over a weekend or within three to five evenings of work. The body works up quickly because half double crochet is one of the fastest stitches, and the ruffle is genuinely fun once you see the fabric start to bloom.
Can I sell items made from this pattern? You are welcome to sell finished skirts made from this free pattern. Please credit the pattern source if you post about your finished item online — it helps other crafters find the pattern and supports the community.
Final Thoughts
There is a version of this skirt waiting for every crocheter. Whether you choose a crisp white cotton for the classic tennis look, a soft sage for something more bohemian, or a vibrant coral that you can wear from the farmer’s market to an afternoon on the court, the process of making it yourself is half the pleasure. Garment crochet can feel intimidating at first, but a skirt like this one — worked in the round, from the top down, with clear increases and a showstopping ruffle at the end — is one of the most confidence-building projects you can take on. Once you finish it, you will wear it constantly, and every time someone asks where you got it, you will get to say you made it yourself.
Happy crocheting.
