Flared Crochet Maxi Skirt Pattern XS–5XL | Boho Crochet Skirt DIY
There is something undeniably magical about wearing a garment you made with your own hands. A flared crochet maxi skirt is one of those pieces that turns heads at farmers markets, beach boardwalks, music festivals, and weekend brunches alike. It moves beautifully, it breathes in warm weather, and it carries that relaxed, artistic energy that defines bohemian style. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter or someone who has just mastered the basics, this pattern is designed to guide you through every step with confidence. Best of all, the sizing runs from XS all the way to 5XL, because boho style looks incredible on every body.
This post walks you through the complete pattern, yarn and hook recommendations, stitch breakdowns, sizing adjustments, and finishing tips so you can go from a ball of yarn to a flowing skirt you will reach for again and again.
Why Crochet a Maxi Skirt?
Crochet garments have surged back into fashion, and for good reason. Handmade crochet skirts offer a level of customization that store-bought clothing simply cannot match. You choose the yarn weight, the color palette, the length, and the fit. A flared silhouette in crochet is especially rewarding because the natural drape of a loosely worked fabric creates that effortless flow reminiscent of the 1970s boho revival that never really goes away.
A maxi skirt also gives you room to experiment. You can keep it simple with a solid-color yarn in earthy linen for a minimalist aesthetic, or you can go bold with variegated yarn that shifts through sunset tones. The pattern structure below uses a combination of basic stitches arranged in a way that creates natural flare from the hip downward, meaning you do not need to do anything complicated to achieve that gorgeous silhouette. The fabric opens up on its own as you work the increases.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern, gather everything you need so your project flows without interruption.
Yarn: The best yarn choices for a wearable crochet maxi skirt are lightweight and breathable. Look for a DK weight or light worsted (also labeled Category 3 or light Category 4) in cotton, linen, bamboo, or a cotton blend. These fibers have excellent drape and are comfortable against the skin. Avoid anything too bulky or too scratchy. A standard ball of 100% cotton DK yarn runs about 220–250 yards per 100 grams, and you will need anywhere from 1,200 yards for an XS to 2,600 yards or more for a 5XL depending on your desired length.
Hook: A 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm crochet hook works beautifully with DK cotton yarn. The slightly larger hook size keeps the fabric from becoming stiff. If you find your tension runs tight, size up to a 5.0 mm. Gauge matters more in garment making than in any other crochet project, so take the time to swatch before you start.
Notions: You will need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers to mark your increases, a measuring tape, scissors, and approximately one and a half yards of wide elastic (about 1.5 to 2 inches wide) for the waistband. You may also want a yarn swift and ball winder if you are working from skeins.
Gauge
Gauge: 16 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in half double crochet with a 4.5 mm hook and DK weight cotton yarn.
Always crochet a gauge swatch before beginning. Chain 20, work in half double crochet for 12 rows, then lay it flat and measure a 4-inch square in the center of the swatch. Adjust your hook size up or down as needed. Getting your gauge right is the single most important thing you can do to ensure your finished skirt matches the measurements in the size chart.
Size Chart and Finished Measurements
The skirt is worked from the waist downward. The waistband is a folded channel for elastic, which makes the fit forgiving and comfortable across a wide range of body shapes. All measurements below refer to the finished garment measurements. For the best fit, choose your size based on your high hip measurement (about 7 inches below the natural waist) rather than your natural waist alone, since the elastic waistband will gather to fit.
XS: Waist circumference at top edge 24–26 in | Hip circumference approx. 34–36 in | Skirt length (below waistband) 36 in
S: Waist 26–28 in | Hip 36–38 in | Length 36 in
M: Waist 28–32 in | Hip 38–42 in | Length 37 in
L: Waist 32–36 in | Hip 42–46 in | Length 37 in
XL: Waist 36–40 in | Hip 46–50 in | Length 38 in
2XL: Waist 40–44 in | Hip 50–54 in | Length 38 in
3XL: Waist 44–48 in | Hip 54–58 in | Length 39 in
4XL: Waist 48–52 in | Hip 58–62 in | Length 39 in
5XL: Waist 52–56 in | Hip 62–66 in | Length 40 in
Skirt length can be adjusted freely by adding or subtracting pattern repeats. Each full pattern repeat adds approximately 3 to 3.5 inches of length depending on your gauge.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc2tog — half double crochet two together (decrease, used only in waistband shaping)
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
The main body of the skirt uses a combination of half double crochet and double crochet arranged in a textured shell-inspired pattern that creates natural flare. The waistband is worked in ribbing using slip stitches in the back loop only.
Waistband
The waistband is crocheted separately and then joined to the body of the skirt. This method gives a clean, professional finish and allows for easy elastic insertion.
Chain 13.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in the 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (12 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in BLO of each stitch across. (12 sc)
Repeat Row 2 until the waistband measures the following length unstretched:
XS: 20 in | S: 22 in | M: 25 in | L: 28 in | XL: 31 in | 2XL: 34 in | 3XL: 37 in | 4XL: 40 in | 5XL: 43 in
The ribbing will stretch comfortably to approximately 1.5 to 1.75 times its unstretched length when worked in BLO. Fasten off and set aside. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise so that the right side faces out and you have a double-layered strip. This folded strip will form the elastic casing once joined to the skirt body.
Skirt Body
The skirt body is worked in the round from the top down. You begin by crocheting into the long edge of the waistband.
With the RS of the waistband facing you and the folded edge at the top, join yarn with a slip stitch to the bottom edge of one of the short ends. You will work into the row ends along the bottom long edge of the folded waistband.
The exact number of stitches you pick up along the waistband edge will determine the starting circumference of your skirt. Use the following stitch counts for each size:
XS: 80 st | S: 88 st | M: 100 st | L: 112 st | XL: 124 st | 2XL: 136 st | 3XL: 148 st | 4XL: 160 st | 5XL: 172 st
Pick up and hdc evenly along the bottom edge of the waistband, then join with a slip stitch to the first hdc to close the round. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Do not turn at the end of rounds; this is worked in continuous rounds with the RS facing out.
Body Pattern Rounds
Rounds 1–3: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), hdc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (Stitch count unchanged for your size.)
These first three rounds form a smooth band just below the waistband that helps the skirt sit nicely on the hips before the flare begins.
Round 4 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, repeat from to around. Join. (You are adding one stitch in every 5th stitch, increasing the total stitch count by 20%.)
Rounds 5–7: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 8 (Increase Round): Ch 2, hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, repeat from to around. Join.
Rounds 9–11: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around. Join.
Continue this pattern of three plain rounds followed by an increase round five more times total (for a total of seven increase rounds). By this point your stitch count will have grown substantially and the fabric will be visibly flaring outward.
Shell Stitch Section
Once you have completed all seven increase rounds and their plain round sets, you will transition into the shell stitch section that gives the lower portion of the skirt its boho lace-like texture.
Shell Stitch Pattern (multiple of 6 stitches):
Round 1 (Transition Round): Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join.
Round 2 (Shell Round): Ch 3, skip 2 stitches, 5 dc in next stitch (shell made), skip 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, repeat from to around, ending the last repeat with sc in last stitch. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first sc (half shell), sc in center stitch of shell, 5 dc in next sc, repeat from to to last sc, sc in center stitch of last shell. Join.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in first dc, 5 dc in next sc, sc in center dc of next shell, repeat from to around. Join.
Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 until the skirt reaches your desired length or you have approximately 2 inches of yarn remaining for the final border.
Hem Border
The hem is finished with a simple picot border that echoes the boho texture of the shell section.
Border Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each dc and sc around the entire hem. Join.
Border Round 2 (Picot): Sl st in first sc, ch 3, sl st in same stitch, sl st in next 2 sc, repeat from to all the way around. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends with your tapestry needle.
Inserting the Elastic Waistband
Thread your elastic through the channel created by the folded waistband. If you left the short ends of the waistband open, simply feed a safety pin through one end of the elastic and thread it all the way around the channel until it comes out the other side. Overlap the ends of the elastic by about 1 inch, sew them together securely with a needle and thread or a sewing machine, and tuck the joined section back inside the channel. Slip stitch the open ends of the waistband closed.
The elastic should fit snugly but comfortably around your natural waist or just below it, wherever you plan to wear the skirt. Try the skirt on before finalizing the elastic length.
Customization Ideas
One of the great joys of making your own crochet maxi skirt is that you can make it entirely your own. Here are some ideas to take this base pattern in different directions.
Add a slit. When you reach the shell stitch section, you can work back and forth in rows on half the skirt instead of in rounds to create a front or side slit. Work to the center front, chain and turn, and work the other half the same way, then rejoin for the hem border.
Try a colorblock effect. Work the upper hdc section in one color and switch to a contrasting color for the shell stitch section. Use a neutral at the hem for a polished three-color palette.
Incorporate fringe. Cut lengths of yarn about 14 inches long and fold them in half. Use a hook to pull the folded end through a stitch along the hem, loop the cut ends through the fold, and pull tight. Trim to an even length for a festival-ready fringe border.
Use a self-striping yarn. Many hand-dyed and commercially produced yarns shift through multiple colors on their own. Using one of these in this pattern means your flare and shell sections will naturally pick up different color moments, giving you a one-of-a-kind piece without any extra effort.
Work a tier. Once you have finished the main skirt, pick up stitches along the hem and add a second shell tier in a complementary color for a layered, tiered maxi look.
Tips for Crocheting Garments
If this is your first crochet garment, a few extra notes will help you along the way.
Blocking matters. Once your skirt is finished, wet block it by soaking it in cool water, gently pressing out the excess moisture in a towel, and laying it flat to dry. This evens out your stitches and helps the drape of the fabric really open up. Cotton and linen fibers benefit enormously from blocking.
Swatching is non-negotiable. A difference of even half a stitch per inch will result in a finished skirt that is several inches too large or too small in circumference. Swatch, measure, and adjust before you commit.
Tension consistency matters more in the round. When working in rounds, some crocheters unconsciously tighten their tension on the joining stitch. Try to keep the joining slip stitch loose.
Count your stitches regularly. At the end of every increase round, count to make sure you have the right number for your size. Catching a mistake early saves enormous amounts of frogging.
Weave in ends as you go. If you are changing colors or joining new balls of yarn, weave in the tails before continuing rather than leaving them all for the end.
Caring for Your Crochet Skirt
Most cotton and cotton-blend yarn skirts are machine washable on a gentle or delicate cycle in cool water. Turn the skirt inside out before washing to protect the texture of the shell stitches. Lay flat to dry rather than using a dryer, since heat can cause cotton to shrink and elastic to degrade over time. Avoid wringing or twisting the fabric while wet.
Store your crochet skirt folded rather than hung, since the weight of the fabric when draped over a hanger can stretch the waistband and distort the shape over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does this project take? For an average crocheter working in the evenings, expect this skirt to take between two and four weeks to complete. The lower shell stitch sections work up faster than the dense hdc body, so the pace feels varied and satisfying throughout.
Can I use bulky yarn? You can, but the drape will be very different. A bulky yarn skirt will have more structure and less flow. If you prefer that look, size down by one full size in the pattern to account for the larger stitch size, and use a gauge of approximately 11 stitches to 4 inches.
Can I make this skirt shorter? Absolutely. Stop the shell stitch section wherever you like for a midi or knee-length skirt. The hem
