Free Lana Lacey Skirt Knitting Pattern: A Beautiful Beginner-Friendly Project You’ll Love Making
If you’ve been searching for a free knitting pattern that combines elegance with wearability, the Lana Lacey Skirt might be exactly what your needles have been waiting for. This gorgeous skirt pattern works up beautifully in a variety of yarn weights, flatters a wide range of body types, and gives you that satisfying combination of lacy detail and practical style. Whether you’re a newer knitter looking to stretch your skills or an experienced maker searching for a relaxing weekend project, this pattern delivers on every front.
In this post, we’re going to walk you through everything you need to know about the Lana Lacey Skirt — from materials and sizing to stitch instructions, finishing tips, and styling ideas. By the end, you’ll have everything you need to cast on your first row with confidence.
Why Knitters Are Falling in Love with Lacy Skirts
Handknit skirts have experienced a genuine renaissance in recent years. There’s something undeniably special about wearing a garment you’ve made yourself, and a skirt offers a unique canvas for showing off texture, color, and stitch work in a way that sweaters and scarves simply can’t match. Lacy knit skirts in particular have become a staple of the handmade wardrobe because they’re lightweight, breathable, and effortlessly chic.
The Lana Lacey Skirt is special because the design strikes a careful balance. The lace panels are simple enough that you don’t need to be an advanced lace knitter to work them successfully, but the finished fabric has that intricate, heirloom quality that makes people ask, “Did you really make that yourself?” Add in the fact that this is a free pattern — available right here in full — and it becomes a no-brainer addition to your knitting queue.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you dive in, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you cast on makes the knitting process much smoother.
Yarn: This pattern is written for a fingering or sport weight yarn. You’ll need approximately 600–800 yards for a size small/medium, and 800–1,000 yards for a medium/large. The pattern works beautifully in natural fibers like wool, alpaca, or a wool-cotton blend. A yarn with a bit of drape will give the skirt the flowing quality that makes it so flattering. Some favorites among knitters who’ve made this style include merino singles, bamboo blends, and linen-cotton yarns for a warmer-weather version.
Needles: US size 3 (3.25mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer. You’ll be working in the round for most of this skirt, so a long circular needle makes the work much more comfortable.
Notions: Stitch markers (you’ll need at least six), a tapestry needle for finishing, an elastic waistband or a length of ribbon for the waistband casing (approximately one inch wide and your waist measurement plus two inches), scissors, and a measuring tape.
Gauge: 28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking. Gauge matters a great deal with garments, so take the time to swatch and block your swatch before casting on. Even a small discrepancy will add up over hundreds of stitches and can result in a skirt that doesn’t fit the way you intended.
Sizing
This pattern is written in four sizes:
Size 1 (Small): fits 28–30 inch hip measurement
Size 2 (Medium): fits 32–36 inch hip measurement
Size 3 (Large): fits 38–42 inch hip measurement
Size 4 (X-Large): fits 44–48 inch hip measurement
The skirt is worked from the waist down and features a simple waistband casing at the top. The A-line shaping is achieved through gradual increases worked at regular intervals, giving the skirt a gentle flare that flatters a wide range of silhouettes. The finished length is approximately 22 inches from waist to hem, but instructions are included for lengthening or shortening the skirt to your preference.
Stitch Glossary
Before we get into the pattern itself, let’s review the stitches and abbreviations you’ll encounter.
k: knit
p: purl
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk: slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker
m1r: make one right (a right-leaning increase)
m1l: make one left (a left-leaning increase)
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
The lace repeat used throughout this pattern is a simple six-stitch, eight-row repeat that creates a delicate leaf-like motif. Even if you’ve never worked lace before, this repeat is forgiving and easy to memorize after just a few rows.
The Lace Repeat
Here is the lace motif that forms the decorative panels throughout the body of the skirt. Once you get comfortable with this eight-row repeat, the rhythm of the knitting becomes almost meditative.
Row 1 (RS): k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2 — repeat to end of panel
Row 2 and all WS rows (when working flat): purl across, or if working in the round, knit all stitches
Row 3: k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k1
Row 5: yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo
Row 7: k3, yo, ssk, k3
These eight rows create one complete repeat of the lace motif. You’ll work this pattern in the designated lace panels while working the sections between panels in plain stockinette. The contrast between the textured lace and the smooth stockinette background is what gives this skirt its visual interest.
Pattern Instructions
Waistband:
Using long-tail cast on, cast on 196 (224, 252, 280) stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 8 rounds. This creates a tidy, snug waistband edge.
After completing the ribbing, purl one round. This creates a turning ridge for the waistband casing.
Work in k2, p2 ribbing for another 8 rounds. Do not join the casing yet — you’ll close it after finishing the skirt body and threading your elastic through.
Setting Up the Pattern:
Round 1 (Setup): Knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches, pm, work lace panel over next 12 stitches, pm — repeat this sequence from asterisk to asterisk for a total of 7 lace panels, then knit to end of round.
You should now have 7 lace panels distributed evenly around the skirt, each separated by a stockinette section. The markers help you keep track of where each lace panel begins and ends.
Body of the Skirt:
Continue working in the established pattern — stockinette between markers and the eight-row lace repeat within the marked panels — for 20 rounds.
Begin A-Line Shaping (Increase Section):
The increases are worked on either side of each lace panel marker to create the gradual flare of an A-line silhouette. You’ll work increase rounds every 12th round.
Increase Round: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1r, k1, sm, work lace panel, sm, k1, m1l — repeat from asterisk to asterisk at each lace panel marker.
This adds 14 stitches per increase round (2 stitches at each of the 7 panel markers). Work the increase round, then continue in pattern for 11 rounds. Repeat this sequence a total of 8 times.
After completing all 8 increase rounds, you’ll have 308 (336, 364, 392) stitches on your needles. The skirt should measure approximately 12 inches from the bottom of the waistband casing at this point.
Lower Body:
Work even in established pattern (no more increases) for another 6 inches, or until the skirt measures approximately 18 inches from the bottom of the waistband casing.
Lace Hem:
The bottom of the skirt features a wider lace section that provides a beautiful finish and adds a bit of extra length while keeping the hem from rolling.
Work the following hem lace pattern for 24 rounds (3 complete repeats of the 8-row lace repeat):
Round 1: yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2 — repeat to end of round
Round 2: knit
Round 3: k1, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1, k2 — repeat to end of round
Round 4: knit
Round 5: k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2 — repeat to end of round
Round 6: knit
Round 7: yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k2 — repeat to end of round
Round 8: knit
Bind Off:
Work a stretchy bind off for the hem. A good option is the yarn-over bind off or the Russian bind off, both of which give you a loose, drapey edge that matches the lacy quality of the hem.
To work the yarn-over bind off: k1, yo, k1, pass the yo and the first knit stitch over the second knit stitch — repeat from asterisk to end of round. This method produces a beautifully elastic edge perfect for a lace hem.
Finishing the Skirt
Waistband Casing:
Fold the waistband casing along the purl turning ridge so the wrong sides are together. Using your tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn, whipstitch the live edge of the casing down to the inside of the skirt, leaving a small opening of about one inch. Thread your elastic through the casing using a safety pin attached to one end of the elastic, then try the skirt on and adjust the elastic to fit comfortably around your waist. Overlap the elastic ends by about half an inch and sew them securely together. Sew the opening of the casing closed.
Alternatively, if you prefer a ribbon tie at the waist, skip the elastic and instead create two small eyelets on either side of the center front by working a yo, k2tog in the final round of the waistband ribbing. Thread a length of ribbon through the casing and tie it in a bow at the front.
Blocking:
Blocking is absolutely essential with a lace project. It opens up the lace motifs, evens out the stitches, and helps the skirt drape beautifully. Soak the finished skirt in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for about 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water — never wring — then roll the skirt in a clean towel and press to remove more moisture. Lay the skirt flat on a blocking mat or clean carpet, smooth it into shape, and pin the hem edge at regular intervals to open up the lace. Allow it to dry completely before wearing, which may take 24 hours or more depending on your yarn and environment.
Weaving In Ends:
Use your tapestry needle to weave in all yarn ends on the wrong side of the work. With lace, it’s especially important to weave ends in securely in multiple directions so they don’t pop out through the open fabric.
Tips for Success
Getting a great result from this pattern comes down to a few key habits. First, use locking stitch markers or markers in a contrasting color to distinguish your lace panel markers from any other markers you place. Confusing your markers mid-lace-repeat is one of the most common sources of frustration in this type of project.
Second, use a lifeline. A lifeline is a length of smooth, contrasting yarn threaded through all the live stitches of a completed row — it gives you a safety net to rip back to if you make a mistake in the lace. Thread a lifeline after every completed eight-row lace repeat and you’ll never have to frog more than one repeat at a time.
Third, read each round of the lace pattern before you begin it. It takes only a few seconds and prevents the much more costly mistake of realizing two rows later that you’ve worked the wrong row.
Finally, count your stitches regularly, especially in the first few lace panels. The yarn-overs and decreases in lace should balance out so that each panel contains the same number of stitches at the end of every row. If your count is off, it’s much easier to find the error immediately than to try to trace it later.
Yarn Substitution Ideas
The beauty of a free, versatile pattern like this one is how much room there is to make it your own through yarn choice. Here are a few directions you might take it:
For a classic, heirloom look, choose a smooth fingering-weight merino or a merino-silk blend in a soft neutral like ivory, dove grey, or blush. The sheen of silk picks up light beautifully and really makes lace patterns pop.
For a boho summer skirt, try a linen or linen-cotton blend in an earthy tone. Linen softens beautifully with washing and creates a casually elegant drape that’s perfect for warm weather.
For something a little unexpected, consider a hand-dyed semi-solid yarn in a rich jewel tone. Deep teal, burgundy, and forest green all look stunning worked in this lace pattern.
For a more casual, everyday wearable skirt, a cotton-acrylic blend gives you easy-care properties alongside good stitch definition.
Styling the Lana Lacey Skirt
Once you’ve finished knitting and blocking your skirt, the fun of styling begins. The A-line silhouette and lacy texture make this skirt versatile enough to dress up or down depending on how you accessorize it.
For a relaxed daytime look, pair the skirt with a fitted cotton tee tucked in at the front, simple sandals, and a straw bag. The lace adds enough visual interest that the rest of the outfit can stay simple.
For an evening look, wear it with a silk cami, strappy heels, and a pair of delicate earrings. The handknit lace elevates immediately into something that looks deliberately luxurious.
In cooler months, the skirt works beautifully layered over tights or thin leggings, paired with ankle boots and an oversized sweater or fitted turtleneck. Lace knit skirts have a surprising amount of warmth-to-weight efficiency, especially in wool or alpaca.
A Note on Adjusting the Length
One of the greatest things about knitting your own garments is the ability to customize the fit. If you’d like a mini skirt rather than a midi, simply stop the body section earlier — after 3 or 4 of the increase repeats — then work straight for a few inches and proceed to the lace hem. For a maxi length, continue working even after the increases for an additional 6 to 10 inches before working the hem. Just remember that any length adjustment will affect your yardage needs, so plan accordingly.
Sharing Your Finished Skirt
Once your Lana Lacey Skirt is complete, we’d love to see it! Share your finished object on Instagram or Ravelry using the hashtag #LanaLaceySkirt and tag your post so other knitters can find your version for inspiration. Seeing how different yarns and colorways transform the same basic pattern is one of the most delightful parts of the knitting community.
Whether this is your first time attempting a lacy garment or your fiftieth, the Lana Lacey Skirt offers a rewarding and genuinely enjoyable knitting experience. Cast on, settle in, and enjoy every stitch.
Happy knitting.
