Free Pattern Friday: Eyelet Skirt

There is something deeply satisfying about a skirt that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The eyelet skirt is one of those pieces — delicate, airy, and unmistakably feminine — that seems to belong in a boutique window rather than in the hands of a home knitter or crocheter. And yet here we are, because this week’s Free Pattern Friday is all about making that very skirt yourself, from scratch, with your own two hands, using a pattern that costs you absolutely nothing.

Whether you are new to the craft or a seasoned maker looking for a fresh weekend project, the eyelet skirt is a wonderful addition to your repertoire. It works up quickly once you understand the rhythm of the lace pattern, it translates beautifully across yarn weights and fiber types, and it offers enough variety that you can make five of them and have each one look like a completely different garment. Today we are breaking down everything you need to know — the materials, the techniques, the sizing considerations, the finishing touches, and, of course, the full free pattern itself.

Pull up a chair, grab your coffee, and let’s get into it.

Why the Eyelet Skirt Deserves a Place in Your Pattern Collection

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s talk about the why. Eyelet patterns — those small, deliberate holes created by yarn-overs and decreases — have been part of textile tradition for centuries. You see them in Victorian lace, in heirloom baby garments, in Shetland shawls that have been passed down through generations. There is a reason this technique has endured: it is elegant, it is versatile, and it is genuinely achievable by anyone willing to learn the basic mechanics.

The eyelet skirt specifically has had a major moment in contemporary handmade fashion. Knitters and crocheters alike have embraced it because it bridges the gap between heirloom craft and wearable everyday clothing. A version worked in a fine cotton yarn becomes a breezy summer skirt that pairs effortlessly with sandals and a linen top. The same basic structure worked in a DK-weight merino wool becomes a sophisticated fall layer worn over tights. Swap in a bamboo blend and you have something with a subtle sheen that feels genuinely elevated.

This is the kind of pattern that teaches you something. Even if you have done yarn-overs before, working them in a consistent repeating motif across an entire garment sharpens your tension control, deepens your understanding of how lace behaves as a fabric, and builds the kind of muscle memory that will serve every future project you take on.

What You Will Need

Yarn

For the version photographed here and described in the pattern below, we used a light fingering weight cotton yarn in an off-white. Approximately 800 to 1,200 yards will cover most adult sizes, though we will give more specific yardage guidance in the pattern notes by size. If you prefer a slightly more substantial drape, a sport weight cotton-blend works beautifully and will require fewer yards overall.

Fiber choice matters more with a skirt than with many other garments. Cotton and cotton blends are generally the most practical choice because they offer minimal stretch, hold their shape at the hem, and breathe well in warm weather. Linen is another excellent option, though it can be stiff when new and requires a bit of wear and washing before it softens to its full glory. If you want warmth and are working toward a fall or winter version, a fine merino or a merino-silk blend will give you a gorgeous drape with just enough memory to keep the skirt from sagging throughout the day.

Needles or Hook

For a knitted version: US size 2 (2.75mm) or US size 3 (3.25mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer. The exact size will depend on your gauge and your preferred yarn weight — always check your gauge before casting on.

For a crocheted version: A US size B/1 (2.25mm) or C/2 (2.75mm) hook works well with fingering weight cotton. Move up a hook size if your tension tends to run tight.

Additional Materials

You will want a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a stitch marker or two (especially helpful at the beginning of rounds), and a length of smooth waste yarn or a stitch holder if your pattern calls for a held waistband. A few yards of elastic or a length of ribbon for the waistband finish is helpful, depending on which closure style you choose — more on that in the finishing section.

Gauge

Getting gauge on a garment like this genuinely matters. The eyelet skirt is worked primarily in the round from the waist down, and because the eyelet pattern is fairly open, even a small tension discrepancy will translate to a skirt that is either too narrow to wear or wide enough to pool at your feet. Take the twenty minutes to work a gauge swatch, wash and dry it the way you intend to care for the finished skirt, and measure again before you commit to casting on.

For the knitted version using fingering weight cotton on US size 2 needles, the target gauge is approximately 32 stitches and 40 rounds over four inches in stockinette. For the crocheted version using the same yarn weight on a C/2 hook, aim for approximately 28 stitches and 30 rows over four inches in single crochet.

Sizing

The pattern is written in sizes XS through 2XL, with waist measurements ranging from 24 inches to 44 inches. The finished skirt has approximately one to two inches of negative ease at the waist when worked with an elastic waistband, meaning you will choose the size closest to your actual waist measurement and let the elastic do the rest. Skirt length is adjustable — the pattern as written produces a midi length of approximately 26 inches from waist to hem, but instructions are included for shortening or lengthening as desired.

Understanding the Eyelet Pattern

The eyelet repeat used in this skirt is a simple but striking six-stitch, four-row (or four-round) repeat that creates a diagonal scatter of small holes across the fabric. It is not true lace — there are no complex decreases working in multiple directions at once — but it creates a lovely texture that reads as distinctly lacy from a few feet away.

The basic unit looks like this in knitting:

Round 1: K3, yo, k2tog, k1; repeat from to end
Round 2: Knit all stitches
Round 3: K1, yo, k2tog, k3; repeat from to end
Round 4: Knit all stitches

That is the entire motif. The diagonal shift between rounds one and three is what creates the scattered effect rather than vertical columns of holes. Once you have worked a few repeats, you will find yourself barely glancing at the pattern — your fingers will know what comes next.

For the crocheted version, the eyelet effect is achieved through a simple combination of chain-one spaces and double crochet clusters that mimic the same scattered quality. The crochet pattern repeat is provided in full in the pattern section below.

The Full Free Pattern: Eyelet Skirt

Knitted Version

Abbreviations:
CO = cast on, k = knit, yo = yarn over, k2tog = knit two together, pm = place marker, sm = slip marker, BO = bind off, RS = right side, WS = wrong side

Waistband

Using your preferred cast-on method (a long-tail cast on works beautifully here for its clean, slightly stretchy edge), cast on the following number of stitches for your size:

XS: 192 sts | S: 216 sts | M: 240 sts | L: 264 sts | XL: 288 sts | 2XL: 336 sts

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1.5 inches. This creates the waistband channel that will hold your elastic.

Body

Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Begin eyelet pattern:

Round 3 (Eyelet Round A): K3, yo, k2tog, k1; repeat from to end of round.
Round 4: Knit all stitches.
Round 5: Knit all stitches.
Round 6: Knit all stitches.
Round 7 (Eyelet Round B): K1, yo, k2tog, k3; repeat from to end of round.
Round 8: Knit all stitches.
Round 9: Knit all stitches.
Round 10: Knit all stitches.

Rounds 3 through 10 form the body pattern repeat. Continue working this eight-round repeat until the body measures approximately 22 inches from the bottom of the waistband, or until you have reached your desired length minus four inches for the hem section.

Hem

Work four rounds of stockinette. On the next round, work a picot bind-off as follows: BO 3 stitches, slip stitch back to left needle, CO 2 stitches, BO 5 stitches; repeat from to end of round. This creates a delicate, slightly decorative hem that suits the lacy character of the body fabric.

Alternatively, work a simple stretchy bind-off in knit for a cleaner finish.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Thread a length of non-roll elastic through the waistband channel — measure the elastic to your actual waist measurement and overlap the ends by about half an inch before sewing them together securely. Alternatively, thread a length of ribbon through the channel at center front using a yarn needle, leaving long tails to tie in a bow. Wet block the finished skirt by soaking it in cool water, gently squeezing out the moisture, and laying it flat to dry. The eyelet pattern will open up beautifully during blocking.

Crocheted Version

Abbreviations:
ch = chain, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, ch-sp = chain space, sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, RS = right side

Waistband

Foundation chain: Chain the following number, then join to form a ring:

XS: 156 ch | S: 180 ch | M: 204 ch | L: 228 ch | XL: 252 ch | 2XL: 300 ch

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), sc in each chain around, join with sl st to first sc.

Rounds 2 through 6: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first sc.

These five rounds of single crochet form the waistband channel for your elastic.

Body

Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next 5 stitches; rep from to last 3 stitches, ch 1, skip 1, dc in last 2 stitches, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Round 8: Ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch-sp around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Round 9: Ch 3, dc in next 2 stitches, dc in next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next 5 stitches; rep from adjusting so that the ch-1 spaces fall offset from those in Round 7 by 3 stitches. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Round 10: Ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch-sp around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Rounds 7 through 10 form the body pattern repeat. Continue working until the body measures approximately 22 inches from the bottom of the waistband, or your desired length minus three inches for the hem.

Hem

Work one round of dc. Work a final round of sc followed by a shell stitch border: skip 2 stitches, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, sl st in next stitch; rep from around. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Thread elastic through the waistband channel as described in the knitted version. Wet block as described above.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

A few things learned from working this pattern multiple times are worth passing along.

First, pay attention to your yarn-overs. In the knitted version, a yarn-over should be a clean loop that sits on the needle without twisting. When you work into it on the following round, you want to knit into the front leg of the loop to keep the eyelet open. If you accidentally knit through the back leg, the hole closes up, and the pattern loses its definition.

Second, if you are new to working in the round on a large number of stitches, consider using the magic loop method or splitting your work across two circular needles rather than trying to crowd everything onto a 24-inch cable. The skirt starts with a substantial cast-on, and having enough cable to spread the stitches out will make your knitting more comfortable and your tension more consistent.

Third, block generously. Eyelet fabric has a tendency to look a little squat and closed-up before it meets water. The holes tighten, the fabric puckers slightly, and you may find yourself wondering if you did something wrong. You almost certainly did not. A thorough wet block changes everything — the eyelets open, the fabric relaxes to its proper dimensions, and the skirt suddenly looks like the thing you imagined when you first cast on.

Fourth, if you are substituting yarn, pay close attention to the fiber content and how it behaves when wet. A yarn that is mostly synthetic may not respond to wet blocking the way a natural fiber would, and some blends can grow significantly in length after washing. Swatch, wash your swatch, and measure before you commit.

Styling Your Eyelet Skirt

Once you have your finished skirt in hand, the fun part begins. The off-white or natural cotton version looks stunning with a tucked-in poplin blouse in a complementary soft tone — think dusty sage, warm peach, or a classic navy stripe. Layer it over a fitted turtleneck and knee-high boots when the temperature drops. Cinch it at the waist with a thin leather belt over a cropped denim jacket for a casual weekend look that still feels pulled together.

For a more formal occasion, a silk or satin camisole tucked in and a pair of heeled sandals takes the same skirt somewhere genuinely elegant. The eyelet texture does a lot of the visual work for you — the skirt carries the outfit without requiring much else to compete with it.

If you worked your skirt in a jewel tone — a deep teal, a rich burgundy, an earthy terracotta — lean into the richness of the color and keep the rest of your outfit simple. Let the handmade fabric be the focal point.

Share Your Make

We would love to see what you create. If you work up this eyelet skirt, please share your finished project on Instagram or in your project notes, and tag it so the community can find it. There is something wonderful about seeing the same pattern interpreted in a dozen different yarns and colorways — it is a reminder of just how much creativity lives in the hands of the people making things.

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