Free Pattern: Knit Long Skirt
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing a garment you made with your own hands. A long knitted skirt is one of those projects that feels ambitious the moment you cast on but becomes deeply rewarding as the fabric grows beneath your needles. It drapes beautifully, moves with your body, and carries the quiet pride of handmade clothing wherever you wear it. Whether you are a seasoned knitter looking for a weekend project or an intermediate knitter ready to step beyond scarves and hats, this free pattern will walk you through every step of creating a stunning floor-length knitted skirt you will reach for again and again.
This pattern is written for a flowing, A-line silhouette that sits comfortably at the natural waist and falls all the way to the ankle. It uses simple stockinette and a subtle lace border at the hem to give it just enough elegance without requiring advanced lace knitting skills. The construction is straightforward: you work in the round from the waist down, using gradual increases to shape the A-line flare, and finish with a pretty eyelet edging that frames the hem perfectly.
Let’s gather everything you need before we begin.
Materials and Tools
Choosing the right yarn makes an enormous difference in a long skirt project. Because this garment drapes and moves, you want something with a fluid hand rather than a stiff one. Avoid overly rustic or scratchy wools for a skirt that will touch your skin, and instead look for something with a smooth finish and good drape.
Yarn: Approximately 800 to 1,200 yards of DK or light worsted weight yarn, depending on your size. A yarn with a silk, bamboo, or Tencel blend will give you gorgeous drape and a slight sheen. Pure merino wool also works beautifully for a warmer garment. For a lighter, breathable option perfect for transitional seasons, a cotton-linen blend is ideal. Choose a single color for a clean, classic look, or plan two complementary colors for a simple stripe section if you want more visual interest.
Needles: US size 5 (3.75 mm) circular needles, 32 or 40 inches long. You will also want a set of US size 4 (3.5 mm) circular needles for the waistband ribbing.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least 6), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a length of 1-inch wide elastic cut to your waist measurement.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US size 5 needles after blocking. Gauge matters more than you might think in a project this size. A small difference in gauge can mean your skirt ends up significantly wider or narrower than intended, so please take the time to swatch and wash your swatch before beginning.
Sizing
This pattern is written for six sizes. Measure your natural waist and your hips (about 8 to 10 inches below the waist) to find your size.
Size 1: 26–28 inch waist, 36–38 inch hip
Size 2: 28–30 inch waist, 38–40 inch hip
Size 3: 30–32 inch waist, 40–42 inch hip
Size 4: 32–34 inch waist, 42–44 inch hip
Size 5: 36–38 inch waist, 46–48 inch hip
Size 6: 40–42 inch waist, 50–52 inch hip
Instructions are written for Size 1, with all other sizes in parentheses: Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6).
The finished skirt is designed with 2 to 3 inches of positive ease at the waist, since the elastic waistband will draw in the fabric slightly, and about 4 to 6 inches of positive ease at the hip for a comfortable, flowing fit. The length as written is approximately 34 inches from waist to hem, which falls near the ankle for most people of average height. Instructions for adjusting the length are included at the end of the pattern.
Abbreviations
Before diving into the pattern itself, here is a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout.
CO – cast on
BO – bind off
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk – slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
yo – yarn over
m1l – make one left (lift the bar between stitches and knit into the back of it)
m1r – make one right (lift the bar between stitches and knit into the front of it)
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
rep – repeat
rnd – round
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
Pattern Notes
This skirt is worked in the round from the top down. The waistband is worked first in ribbing to create a channel for the elastic, and then the body is worked in stockinette with periodic increase rounds to create the A-line shape. The lace hem is worked last before binding off.
Because you are working in the round, the right side of the fabric is always facing you. Every round is a knit round when working stockinette — there is no purling in the main body of the skirt.
If you prefer a side slit, you can work the last several inches of the skirt flat rather than in the round. Instructions for this modification are included after the main pattern.
The Pattern
Waistband
Using your smaller needles (US size 4), cast on 144 (156, 168, 180, 204, 228) stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your cast-on. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Rnd 1 through Rnd 6: K2, p2; repeat from to end of round.
Switch to your larger needles (US size 5).
Rnd 7: Knit all stitches.
Rnd 8: Purl all stitches. (This creates a turning ridge for the waistband fold.)
Rnd 9 through Rnd 14: K2, p2; repeat from to end of round.
The waistband will be folded along the purl ridge and seamed to the inside later, after the elastic is inserted. Set it aside for now and continue to the body.
Setting Up the Increase Sections
Before you begin the body, you need to place markers to divide the skirt into increase sections. The increases will be made at six evenly spaced points around the skirt to create a smooth, even A-line flare.
Divide your total stitch count into six equal sections. For Size 1 with 144 stitches, this gives you 24 stitches per section. (For other sizes: 156 ÷ 6 = 26; 168 ÷ 6 = 28; 180 ÷ 6 = 30; 204 ÷ 6 = 34; 228 ÷ 6 = 38.)
Place markers as follows: Knit 24 (26, 28, 30, 34, 38) stitches, pm, knit 24 (26, 28, 30, 34, 38) stitches, pm; repeat from 4 more times. The beginning of round marker is already placed.
You now have 6 sections of equal size, each marked off with a stitch marker.
Body
Rounds 1 through 9: Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you pass them.
Round 10 (Increase Round): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l; repeat from to end of round. (12 stitches increased; 2 per section.)
Repeat these 10 rounds (9 plain rounds followed by 1 increase round) a total of 18 times. After all increase rounds are complete, you will have increased 216 stitches total (12 stitches × 18 increase rounds), bringing your total stitch count to 360 (372, 384, 396, 420, 444) stitches.
After the final increase round, work 10 rounds plain with no increases. This ensures the hem lies flat and the fabric is stable before the lace border begins.
At this point, your skirt body should measure approximately 28 to 30 inches from the cast-on edge. Try it on over your waist and check the length. You want approximately 3 to 4 inches remaining for the lace hem. If you need a longer skirt, add additional plain rounds here before proceeding.
Lace Hem Border
The lace border is worked over 20 rounds and creates a simple but beautiful eyelet pattern at the hem of the skirt. It adds approximately 3 inches of length.
Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: K2, yo, k2tog; repeat from to end of round.
Rounds 3 through 5: Knit all stitches.
Round 6: Ssk, yo, k2; repeat from to end of round.
Rounds 7 through 9: Knit all stitches.
Round 10: K2, yo, k2tog; repeat from to end of round.
Rounds 11 through 13: Knit all stitches.
Round 14: Ssk, yo, k2; repeat from to end of round.
Rounds 15 through 17: Knit all stitches.
Round 18: Purl all stitches. (This creates a subtle ridge that frames the lace.)
Rounds 19 through 20: Knit all stitches.
Bind off: Using a stretchy bind off method, bind off all stitches loosely. A recommended method is the Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off: k2, insert the left needle through the front of both stitches on the right needle and knit them together through the back loops; repeat from until all stitches are bound off. This keeps the hem from pulling in and allows the lace to open up beautifully after blocking.
Finishing
Inserting the Elastic
Cut a piece of 1-inch wide elastic to your waist measurement, adding about half an inch for overlap. Thread the elastic through the waistband channel using a safety pin or a bodkin. Overlap the ends by about half an inch and sew them securely together with a needle and thread or on a sewing machine. Distribute the fabric evenly around the elastic.
Fold the waistband to the inside along the purl turning ridge and pin it in place. Using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch the cast-on edge to the inside of the skirt, catching just the purl bumps of the inside fabric so your stitching does not show on the right side. Make sure your stitching is not too tight — the waistband needs to stretch with the elastic.
Weaving In Ends
Weave in all yarn tails carefully with your tapestry needle. Work each tail in at least two directions to secure it, and trim any excess close to the fabric.
Blocking
Blocking is truly transformative for a project like this. Fill your sink or a clean basin with cool water and a small amount of wool wash or gentle soap. Submerge the skirt and allow it to soak for about 20 minutes. Do not agitate or wring the fabric. Gently squeeze out excess water and then roll the skirt in a clean dry towel to remove most of the moisture. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or a clean towel on the floor. Smooth it out to your desired dimensions, pinning the lace hem flat if needed to open up the eyelet pattern. Allow it to dry completely, which may take 12 to 24 hours depending on your yarn fiber and the humidity.
After blocking, the lace hem will open up and the entire skirt will have a softer, more polished drape. This step is worth every bit of the wait.
Optional Modifications
Side Slit
If you would like to add a side slit for ease of movement, work the lace hem section flat rather than in the round. At the beginning of the lace section, turn your work and purl back instead of joining in the round. Mark the slit point at the left side of the skirt. Work the lace section back and forth in rows, purling the wrong side rows, until you reach your desired slit height (4 to 6 inches works well). Then bind off on both sides of the slit opening. You can finish the slit edges with a single crochet edging or simply block them flat.
Adjusting the Length
Each 10-round plain section adds approximately 1.5 inches of length. If you want a midi-length skirt that falls just below the knee, reduce the number of increase repeat sections from 18 to 10 and add fewer plain rounds in the body. If you want an extra-long dramatic hem, add 20 additional plain rounds after the final increase round before beginning the lace border.
Adding a Pocket
A simple rectangular patch pocket can be added to the inside front of the skirt. Cast on 24 stitches on US size 5 needles and work in stockinette for 5 inches. Bind off and block flat. After the skirt is complete, seam three edges of the pocket rectangle to the inside of the skirt at your preferred position, leaving the top edge open. A side-seam pocket is also possible if you convert the last few inches of the body to flat knitting.
Stripe Variation
For a fun and colorful take on this pattern, introduce a contrasting color at any point in the body section. Work 10 rounds in Color A, then switch to Color B for 10 rounds, then back to Color A, and so on. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the work rather than cutting and rejoining each time.
Tips for Success
Working a long skirt in the round means you are moving a very large number of stitches on long circular needles, especially in the lower sections of the skirt. Here are a few things that will make the process smoother.
Use a long circular needle — 40 inches is better than 32 inches for the lower body, where your stitch count climbs above 350. A longer cord gives the stitches more room to move and reduces the drag on your hands.
Keep your tension consistent throughout. It is easy to knit more tightly when you are focused or tired. If you notice your fabric pulling or looking denser in some areas, take a break and return when you are relaxed.
Count your stitches after every increase round. Catching a missed increase early is far easier than discovering a discrepancy 10 rounds later. A small clicker counter attached to your needle can be very helpful here.
Try the skirt on periodically as you work. It is much easier to adjust length as you go than to unravel finished fabric. Simply slide the stitches onto a longer circular needle or a length of scrap yarn and try the skirt on over your clothes.
Yarn Recommendations
If you are shopping for yarn for this project and are not sure where to start, here are a few categories to look for. A bamboo-merino blend such as Cascade Ultra Pima or Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend gives beautiful drape and a soft hand. For a more luxurious feel, look for a silk-blend DK in a solid or semi-solid colorway — the subtle variation in semi-solid yarns adds visual depth without requiring any colorwork. For a budget-friendly option, a smooth acrylic DK with a high sheen reads similarly to silk at a fraction of the cost and is completely machine washable, which is a practical bonus for a garment you will wear often.
Avoid highly textured yarns, bulky yarns, or anything described as “rustic” or “artisan spun” for this pattern. These fibers can make the lace details harder to see and can produce a stiff, heavy fabric in a long garment.
A Few Final Words
Making your own clothing is one of the most rewarding things a knitter can do. A long knitted skirt is a commitment in terms of time and yarn, but the result — a custom, perfectly fitting garment in a color and fiber you chose yourself — is worth every round. This pattern is designed to be flexible and forgiving, with room to adjust the length, add personal touches, and make it completely your own.
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