Free Skirt Knitting Pattern: Easy Straight Cut – Sydney Skirt

There is something deeply satisfying about knitting your own clothing. Unlike scarves and dishcloths, a garment you can actually wear out into the world carries a different kind of pride with it. You made that. You wore it to dinner, or to the farmer’s market, or on a slow Sunday morning walk, and it came from your own two hands and a ball of yarn. The Sydney Skirt is exactly that kind of project — one that delivers the satisfaction of a wearable garment without asking you to wrestle with complicated shaping, short rows, or intimidating construction methods.

This is a free knitting pattern for a straight-cut skirt worked flat or in the round, depending on your preference. The design is clean, simple, and endlessly customizable. Whether you are a beginner who has conquered the knit stitch and is ready for something more exciting, or an experienced knitter who wants a mindless weekend project, the Sydney Skirt is designed to meet you exactly where you are.

Let’s get into everything you need to know.

Why a Straight-Cut Skirt Is the Perfect First Garment

When most knitters think about making clothing, they immediately imagine complex pattern pieces, bust darts, waist shaping, and armhole calculations. That is a legitimate part of more advanced garment knitting, but it does not have to be where you start. A straight-cut skirt removes nearly all of that complexity while still producing something genuinely beautiful and wearable.

A straight-cut skirt is essentially a rectangle. You cast on enough stitches to go around your hips, work straight up to your desired length, add a waistband, and you’re done. The shape works because knit fabric has natural stretch and drape. A fabric with even a small percentage of stretch will skim the body in a flattering way without needing to be perfectly fitted. Add a simple elastic waistband and you have a skirt that fits a wide range of body types without any modifications at all.

The Sydney Skirt takes this concept and refines it slightly. A gentle increase toward the hem gives the skirt a tiny bit of flare without requiring any complex math. The waistband is worked last and folds over to encase elastic, making it neat and comfortable. The whole thing is designed to be enjoyable from cast-on to bind-off.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on, gather everything together. Having your materials sorted in advance makes the knitting experience much smoother.

Yarn: You will need approximately 400 to 700 yards of a worsted weight yarn, depending on your size and desired length. A yarn with some natural fiber content — wool, alpaca, cotton, or a blend — will give you the best drape and wear. Pure acrylic works well too, particularly if you want easy machine washing. For a mini length skirt, you will use closer to 400 yards. For a midi length, plan for 600 to 700 yards. Choose something you genuinely love the feel of, since you will be wearing it against your skin.

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles, 24 to 32 inches long. If you prefer working flat, straight needles in the same size will work for smaller sizes, though circular needles are more comfortable for holding a large number of stitches.

Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers (at least two), a measuring tape, scissors, and approximately 1.5 to 2 inches of non-roll elastic cut to your waist measurement.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows to 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Gauge matters more for garments than for accessories, so take the time to knit a swatch and measure it after washing and blocking. If your gauge is off, simply go up or down a needle size until it matches.

Sizing

The Sydney Skirt is written for a range of hip measurements. Find your hip measurement and choose the size that has at least one to two inches of ease. Knit fabric stretches, but you still want a comfortable fit that does not pull.

The sizes in this pattern cover hip measurements from 34 inches up to 52 inches. The waistband is worked with elastic, so it will stretch to accommodate a waist measurement several inches smaller than the hip. If your waist is significantly smaller than your hips, simply use a longer piece of elastic and gather the waistband more generously.

Finished hip measurements (with 1-2 inches of ease included):

Size 1: 36 inches
Size 2: 40 inches
Size 3: 44 inches
Size 4: 48 inches
Size 5: 52 inches

The instructions below will give stitch counts for each size in parentheses, written in order from Size 1 through Size 5.

Abbreviations

CO — cast on
BO — bind off
k — knit
p — purl
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
m1 — make one stitch (a lifted increase)
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)

The Pattern: Sydney Skirt

Notes Before You Begin

This pattern can be worked either flat and seamed, or in the round. Working in the round produces a seamless skirt with a clean stockinette exterior. Working flat and seaming is easier to manage for knitters who are not yet comfortable with circular knitting, and the seam will be nearly invisible if sewn carefully. Instructions for both methods are included below.

If working in the round, you will knit every round for stockinette stitch. If working flat, you will alternate knit rows on the right side and purl rows on the wrong side.

The skirt is worked from the hem upward. This means you cast on at the bottom edge and work up to the waistband. This construction makes it easy to adjust the length as you go — simply work more or fewer rows before beginning the waistband.

Cast On

Using the long-tail cast on method (or your preferred cast on), cast on the following number of stitches:

Size 1: 170 sts
Size 2: 188 sts
Size 3: 206 sts
Size 4: 225 sts
Size 5: 243 sts

If working in the round, join to work in the round being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

If working flat, leave a long tail at the cast on edge — at least 18 inches — which you will use later to seam the side.

Hem Edging

Work 6 rows (or 6 rounds) of k1, p1 ribbing. This creates a neat, non-curling hem edge. If you prefer a simpler hem, you can work 6 rows of garter stitch (knit every row when working flat; alternate knit and purl rounds when working in the round).

Body of the Skirt

After the hem edging, switch to stockinette stitch.

If working in the round: Knit every round.

If working flat: Knit on right side rows, purl on wrong side rows.

Work even in stockinette until the piece measures 3 inches from the cast on edge (not counting the hem edging), ending after a wrong side row or a completed round.

Decrease Round/Row 1:

This is the first of two gentle decrease rounds that bring the hip width in slightly from the flared hem.

k8, k2tog — repeat this sequence across the round or row.

Sizes 1, 2, 3, 4: You will have a small number of remaining stitches after the repeat. Simply knit these remaining stitches plain to the end of the row or round.

Size 5: Work the repeat across and knit remaining stitches.

Continue working even in stockinette for another 3 inches after the decrease round.

Decrease Round/Row 2:

k9, k2tog — repeat across the round or row, knitting any remaining stitches plain.

Continue working even in stockinette until the piece measures your desired length from the cast on edge, minus 2 inches for the waistband. A typical mini skirt is around 15 to 17 inches total. A knee-length skirt is typically 21 to 24 inches total. A midi skirt is 27 to 30 inches total.

This is the point where you can try the skirt on (or hold it up against your body) to check the length. Since there is no shaping to worry about, adding or subtracting length here is as simple as working more or fewer rows. This is one of the great advantages of a straight-cut design.

Waistband

The waistband is worked in k2, p2 ribbing and then folded over to encase the elastic.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 2 inches.

Then work another 2 inches of k2, p2 ribbing for the fold-over portion.

Bind off loosely in ribbing. A loose bind off is important here — if the bind off is too tight, the waistband will not stretch comfortably over your hips when putting the skirt on.

Seaming (for flat version only)

Using the long tail from your cast on and a tapestry needle, seam the side edges together using mattress stitch. Work from the hem up to the waistband, then weave in all ends securely.

Finishing

Fold the waistband in half toward the inside of the skirt. The fold should create a clean, doubled-over tube. Using a tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn, whipstitch the bound-off edge of the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt, leaving a 2-inch gap to insert the elastic.

Cut your elastic to your waist measurement. Thread the elastic through the waistband tube using a safety pin or a bodkin. Overlap the ends of the elastic by about half an inch and sew them securely together. Slide the join inside the tube so it is hidden. Close the gap in the waistband with a few stitches.

Weave in all remaining ends. Wet block the skirt by soaking it in cool water, gently pressing out the excess water in a towel, and laying it flat to dry in its final measurements. Blocking evens out the stitches and gives the fabric a professional finish.

Tips for Customizing the Sydney Skirt

One of the most enjoyable things about a simple pattern like this one is how much room it leaves for creative choices. Here are a few ways to make the Sydney Skirt your own.

Change the yarn weight. This pattern is written for worsted weight, but it adapts easily to other weights. Use a DK weight yarn for a lighter, drapier skirt — just adjust your needle size and recalculate your cast on based on your gauge. A chunky yarn will produce a thicker, cozier skirt that works beautifully in cold weather.

Add a stitch pattern. Once you are comfortable with the basic construction, try replacing the stockinette body with a simple lace panel, a seed stitch texture, or a cable column running up the center front. Any stitch pattern that lies flat (or that you do not mind adding a lining to) will work.

Use stripes. Because this skirt is worked bottom to top with no complicated shaping, it is ideal for stripes. Simply change color every few rows or every few inches. You can alternate two colors for a classic look or use up small amounts of yarn from your stash to create a multicolored gradient effect.

Try a different hem. Instead of ribbing, try a picot hem for a delicate, feminine edge. A simple knit one, purl one border will also work. If you are working with a yarn that has lovely drape, you can skip the hem edging entirely and let the cast on edge roll naturally.

Make it longer or shorter. A mini version of this skirt works beautifully in a bold color or a textured yarn. A floor-length version in a soft, drapey yarn would make a stunning statement piece. The pattern does not change — only the number of rows you work.

Yarn Suggestions for the Sydney Skirt

Choosing the right yarn makes a significant difference in how the finished skirt looks and feels. Here are some general guidelines.

For warm-weather wear, look for yarns with a high cotton or linen content. These fibers breathe well and have a natural drape that is flattering in a skirt. They can be slightly more difficult to knit with since they have no stretch, but the finished fabric is worth the effort.

For year-round wear, a wool-acrylic blend is an excellent choice. The wool adds warmth, drape, and stitch definition, while the acrylic makes the garment machine washable and more affordable.

For a luxurious special occasion skirt, consider a yarn with alpaca or silk. Both fibers have a beautiful sheen and drape that elevates a simple design into something elegant.

Whatever yarn you choose, wash a small swatch before knitting the whole skirt. Some yarns grow significantly after washing, which will affect your finished measurements. It is much better to discover this on a small swatch than on a completed garment.

Common Questions About Knitting a Skirt

Do I need to line a knitted skirt? Not necessarily. A tighter stitch pattern or a thicker yarn will be opaque enough to wear without lining. If you choose a lacy or very open pattern, or a very thin yarn, a simple fabric slip underneath will make the skirt more comfortable and wearable. A simple jersey slip can be found at most fabric stores and is easy to hand-sew to the waistband.

How do I keep the skirt from stretching out? Choose a yarn with some elastic recovery — wool is excellent for this, as it bounces back well. If you use a yarn with no elasticity (like pure cotton or linen), make sure your gauge is slightly tighter to compensate. The elastic waistband will also help maintain the shape of the skirt over time.

Can I wash my knitted skirt in the machine? That depends entirely on your yarn. Check the yarn label for care instructions and follow them. Many modern wool blends are machine washable on a gentle cycle, but pure wool will felt if agitated in hot water. When in doubt, hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry.

What if my gauge is slightly off? First, try a different needle size. If your gauge produces too many stitches per inch, go up a needle size. If you have too few, go down. If you cannot get gauge exactly, choose the size closest to your measurement and adjust the finished length as needed.

A Few Words About Knitting Garments for the First Time

If this is your first garment project, welcome to one of the most rewarding areas of knitting. There is a learning curve, and your first skirt may not be perfect. The hem might not lie as flat as you hoped, or the waistband might be slightly uneven, or the gauge might be a little off. That is completely normal, and it does not make your skirt unwearable or any less of an achievement.

The most important thing is to start. Gauge swatches, blocking, and careful measuring will get you most of the way there, but experience will teach you the rest. Every garment you make — even the imperfect ones — teaches you something that makes the next one better.

The Sydney Skirt was designed specifically to be forgiving. The straight cut means there is no shaping to get wrong. The elastic waistband accommodates a range of measurements. The hem edging prevents curling. All of the decisions built into this pattern are designed to make your knitting experience as smooth and rewarding as possible.

Final Thoughts

The Sydney Skirt is the kind of pattern you will come back to again and again. Once you have made one version, you will find yourself thinking about the next one in a different yarn, a different color, a different length. It is the sort of foundational pattern that lives in your knitting repertoire permanently, ready to be pulled out whenever you want a satisfying, wearable project that does not demand your full concentration.

Whether you knit this for yourself, as a gift, or as a first step into garment knitting, I hope the process brings you as much joy as the finished skirt. Cast on, take your time, and enjoy every stitch.

Happy knitting.