So Beautiful! Make This Knitted Skirt with a Slit

There is something quietly magical about a handmade skirt. Unlike a sweater or a pair of mittens, a skirt carries a particular kind of confidence — it moves with you, drapes around you, and tells the world that you made something both functional and beautiful with your own two hands. If you have been knitting for a while and you are ready to take your skills to the next level, this knitted skirt with a slit is the perfect project. It is elegant, wearable every day, and surprisingly approachable once you understand the structure.

In this guide, we will walk through everything you need to know: yarn selection, needle choices, stitch patterns, sizing, the technique for creating a clean and flattering slit, and finishing tips that will make your skirt look polished and professional. Whether you prefer a mini, midi, or maxi length, this pattern framework can be adapted to suit your vision.

Why Knit a Skirt?

Knitting garments is one of the most rewarding paths a knitter can take. Many people start with scarves and hats, move on to sweaters, and then wonder what else is possible. A knitted skirt is a wonderful answer to that question.

Knitted fabric has a natural stretch and drape that works beautifully for skirts. It hugs the body gently, moves with every step, and because you can choose your own yarn, you have total control over the weight, texture, warmth, and color of the finished piece. A lightweight cotton skirt in a lace pattern is perfect for summer, while a heavier merino wool in a simple stockinette can carry you through autumn and spring.

The slit detail is what takes this skirt from lovely to truly special. A slit adds a modern edge, makes walking easier, and creates that effortlessly stylish look you often see on the street but rarely think to recreate at home. It is also a wonderful technique to learn because it teaches you how to divide your knitting, work two sections simultaneously or separately, and bring them back together cleanly.

Choosing Your Yarn

The yarn you choose will determine the entire character of your skirt, so it is worth spending time on this decision.

For a flowing, feminine skirt with good drape, look for yarns with a high proportion of natural fibers. Bamboo and cotton blends are popular for lighter, warmer-weather skirts because they have a wonderful silky drape and hold their shape well. Merino wool is a go-to for cooler months because it is soft against the skin, has natural elasticity, and comes in an incredible range of beautiful colors.

If you want structure without stiffness, a blend of wool and silk is gorgeous. The silk adds sheen and weight while the wool provides memory and warmth. Some knitters also love linen for skirts — it starts off a little stiff but softens beautifully with wear and washing, and the finished garment has a casual, artisan quality that is genuinely charming.

For a beginner to garment knitting, a smooth yarn in a light to medium weight (DK or worsted) is the easiest to work with because you can see your stitches clearly and correct mistakes without too much trouble. Avoid very fuzzy yarns like mohair for your first attempt, as they make it harder to see what you are doing and nearly impossible to rip back if you need to.

As a rough guide, plan for about 800 to 1,200 yards of DK weight yarn for a knee-length skirt in a medium size, and closer to 1,400 to 1,800 yards for a midi or maxi length. Always buy slightly more than you think you need — running out of yarn partway through a project is one of the most frustrating experiences in knitting.

Needles and Tools

For most DK weight skirt projects, you will want circular knitting needles in a size 4mm (US 6) or 4.5mm (US 7). Circular needles are essential for skirts because you will be knitting in the round, at least for the body of the skirt, and you need a cable long enough to hold all your stitches comfortably. A 60cm or 80cm cable is usually ideal.

You will also need a tape measure, stitch markers, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and optionally a row counter if you find it helpful to track your progress. If your skirt includes a waistband with elastic, you will need a length of wide elastic and a sewing needle and thread or a sewing machine to close it.

Swatching is non-negotiable for a garment. Knit a swatch of at least 10x10cm in your chosen stitch pattern, wash and block it the way you plan to treat the finished skirt, then measure your gauge. This step can feel tedious but it will save you enormous frustration later. A skirt that comes out two sizes too large or too small because you skipped the swatch is a disheartening waste of your time and yarn.

Understanding the Construction

This skirt is worked from the waist down, in the round, which keeps the construction simple and eliminates the need for side seams. The waistband is worked first, followed by the body of the skirt, and the slit is created near the hem by dividing the work and knitting the front and back sections flat before rejoining.

The skirt can be shaped with simple waist-to-hip increases to create a gently flared silhouette, or worked straight for a more fitted column shape. Both are beautiful and the choice is entirely yours.

Sizing and Measurements

Before you cast on, take your measurements. You will need your waist circumference, your hip circumference, and your desired length from waist to hem.

The waistband is typically knitted to about 90% of your actual waist measurement because knitted fabric stretches, and a slight amount of negative ease at the waist keeps the skirt from sliding down. The hip measurement is used to determine how many increases you need to make as you work down from the waist.

A standard medium size might have a waist of 70–76cm, a hip of 96–102cm, and a length of 55cm for knee length, 70cm for midi, or 90cm or more for maxi. Adjust these numbers freely to suit your own body.

To calculate your cast-on number, multiply your waist circumference (in the ease-adjusted measurement) by your gauge (stitches per centimeter). Round to a number that works with your stitch repeat if you are using a patterned stitch. Always round to an even number so that your round markers divide the work neatly into front and back halves.

The Stitch Pattern

The body of this skirt works beautifully in a variety of stitch patterns. Here are a few options depending on your skill level and the aesthetic you are going for.

Stockinette is the classic choice. Worked in the round, every round is a knit round, which makes it meditative and fast to knit. Stockinette has a beautiful smooth surface that showcases color and yarn texture, though it does tend to curl at the hem, which means you will need a border of ribbing, seed stitch, or a hem facing to keep things tidy.

Ribbing, such as a 2×2 rib, gives the skirt a stretchy, body-hugging quality and is particularly lovely for a more fitted style. Because ribbing pulls in, you may need to cast on slightly more stitches than your gauge math suggests to get the right fit at the hip.

A simple lace pattern can elevate the skirt into something truly beautiful. Even a basic eyelet row repeated every six rounds gives a delicate, feminine quality to the fabric. If you want to go further, a traveling vine or leaf lace pattern is stunning on a skirt and photographs magnificently.

A textured stitch like seed stitch or moss stitch adds interest without requiring pattern-reading skills beyond knit and purl. These stitches also have a lovely drape and lie flat without curling, which makes hem finishing easier.

Casting On and Working the Waistband

Using the long-tail cast-on method, cast on your calculated number of stitches and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Work the waistband in 2×2 ribbing (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 to 6cm, or until the waistband reaches the depth you want. Some knitters prefer a deeper waistband of 8 to 10cm for extra support and coverage. If you plan to thread elastic through the waistband, add an extra round of eyelets (yarn over, knit 2 together) near the top or work the waistband as a folded hem by knitting a few additional rounds in stockinette and folding it over to create a channel.

Shaping the Hips

After the waistband, you will begin working the body of the skirt. If your hip measurement is significantly larger than your waist measurement, you will need to increase stitches gradually over the first 15 to 20cm of the skirt.

A simple way to do this is to divide your total required increases evenly across several increase rounds. For example, if you need to add 32 stitches to go from waist to hip, you might work an increase round every 2cm, adding 8 stitches each time, over the first 8cm of the skirt body. Place your increases symmetrically at four points around the round — at the front left, front right, back left, and back right — to maintain a balanced silhouette.

Once you have reached your hip stitch count, continue working straight in your chosen stitch pattern until the skirt reaches about 15cm above the desired total length. This is where you will begin working the slit.

Creating the Slit: Step by Step

The slit is the signature detail of this design, and while it might sound intimidating, it is a straightforward technique once you understand what you are doing. You are essentially stopping circular knitting and beginning to work two flat sections, then joining them back together at the hem.

Decide how deep you want your slit to be. A slit of 20 to 25cm is elegant and practical for a midi or maxi skirt. A shorter slit of 12 to 15cm works beautifully on a knee-length skirt.

When you reach the point where you want the slit to begin, stop working in the round. Divide your stitches in half: the front half and the back half. Place the back stitches on a length of waste yarn or a spare circular needle to hold while you work the front.

Working the front panel flat, turn your work at the end of each row. On right-side rows, knit across. On wrong-side rows, purl across (if working in stockinette). Continue until the front panel measures your desired slit depth.

For the slit edges, you have two choices. If you want a clean, firm edge, slip the first stitch of every row purlwise with the yarn held in front, and knit the last stitch of every row. This creates a neat chain selvage on both edges of the slit. Alternatively, you can work a few stitches of ribbing or seed stitch at the beginning and end of each row to create a finished slit border that lies flat without needing separate edging.

Once the front panel is complete, pick up the back stitches and work the back panel in exactly the same way. When both panels are the same length, place all stitches back on one needle, join to work in the round again, and work one final round to unify the hem.

Finishing the Hem

The hem is the last impression your skirt makes, and it deserves careful attention. There are several beautiful ways to finish a knitted hem.

A simple ribbed border of 2 to 3cm is clean, classic, and lies flat. Work the ribbing in the same stitch as the waistband for a cohesive look. Bind off loosely in pattern using a stretchy bind-off method, such as the Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off, to ensure the hem does not constrict the skirt when you put it on.

A picot hem gives a delicate, feminine finish. Knit several rows of stockinette past your desired finished length, then work a turning row of yarn over, knit 2 together all the way around, then knit several more rows. Fold the hem at the turning row and sew it down on the inside. The resulting scalloped edge is lovely.

You can also work a simple i-cord bind-off along the hem and the slit edges for a sporty, structured finish that adds weight and helps the skirt hang beautifully.

Blocking and Finishing

Blocking is one of the most transformative steps in knitting, and it is particularly powerful for garments. After finishing your skirt, wet it thoroughly in cool water, gently press out excess water without wringing, and lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean towel. Pin it to your measurements and let it dry completely.

Blocking opens up lace patterns, evens out stitches, softens the fabric, and sets the shape of the skirt so it hangs beautifully when worn. This single step can take a piece from homemade-looking to truly professional.

Weave in all your ends securely. If you have added elastic to the waistband, sew the ends of the elastic together and close the waistband channel neatly.

Wearing and Caring for Your Knitted Skirt

A handknitted skirt in wool or wool blend should be hand-washed in cool water with a gentle wool wash, pressed rather than wrung, and dried flat. Many modern superwash wools can be machine-washed on a delicate cycle, which is a practical advantage for a frequently-worn garment.

Hang your skirt on a padded hanger or fold it gently to store it. Avoid hanging knitted items on thin wire hangers, as this can stretch and distort the fabric over time.

With the right care, a well-made knitted skirt can last for years and becomes one of those beloved pieces in your wardrobe that you reach for again and again.

Final Thoughts

Making a knitted skirt with a slit is one of those projects that genuinely changes how you think about what handknitting can be. It is not just about warm accessories or cozy layers — it is about creating a real, wearable, beautiful garment that fits your body perfectly and reflects your personal taste in every stitch.

The slit detail is more than decorative. It is a lesson in shaping, flat knitting, and finishing technique. Once you have mastered it here, you will find yourself applying the same idea to knitted dresses, cardigans, and all kinds of other projects.

Take your time with the swatch, trust your gauge math, and enjoy the rhythm of each round as the skirt grows beneath your needles. The result will be something you are genuinely proud to wear — and that people will absolutely notice.

Happy knitting.