Lace Knit Skirt Pattern: Linen Summer A-Line PDF with Drawstring Waist (XS–3X)
There is something quietly magical about a handmade linen skirt. It moves differently than anything you can buy in a store. It breathes. It softens with every wash. And when it’s worked in a lace knit stitch pattern, it catches the light in a way that feels almost effortless — like something you’ve owned forever, even the first time you wear it.
This lace knit skirt pattern is designed for the warm months, built from breathable linen yarn in a classic A-line silhouette with a simple drawstring waist. The pattern is available as a downloadable PDF, includes sizing from XS through 3X, and is written for knitters who have a basic grasp of working in the round and reading a simple lace chart. Whether you’re new to lace or you’ve been knitting it for years, this is the kind of project that rewards you as you go — because even a single repeat of the stitch pattern produces something genuinely beautiful.
Let’s walk through everything you need to know: the design details, the yarn and needle choices, the sizing and measurements, the construction method, and the full pattern instructions. By the end of this post, you’ll have everything you need to cast on.
Why Linen for a Summer Skirt?
Before we get into the pattern itself, it’s worth spending a moment on yarn choice, because linen is not always the first fiber knitters reach for — and it absolutely should be for this project.
Linen is made from the flax plant, and it has a set of properties that make it ideal for warm-weather knitting. It is naturally moisture-wicking, which means it pulls perspiration away from the skin and dries quickly. It has very low elasticity, which might sound like a drawback, but in the context of a skirt with a drawstring waist, it actually works in your favor: the fabric holds its shape beautifully and doesn’t stretch out over the course of a day. It gets softer with every single wash, so a skirt you knit this summer will be even more lovely next summer. And it has a subtle natural sheen that makes lace stitches pop in a way that wool simply doesn’t replicate in warm weather.
The slight stiffness of linen when you first cast on can make it feel like an unusual yarn to work with, but most knitters find that they adjust quickly. Because linen has low stretch, it’s important to swatch carefully and not to pull your yarn too tightly as you work. A relaxed tension produces the best drape and the most comfortable fabric.
For this pattern, you’ll want a DK-weight linen yarn or a linen blend. A linen-cotton blend adds a touch of softness if you find pure linen a bit rough at first. A linen-silk blend gives you extraordinary drape and sheen, though it comes at a higher price point. All of these options work beautifully, and the choice comes down to your budget, your local climate, and your personal preference for hand feel.
About the Design
The Lace Knit Skirt pattern produces a knee-length A-line skirt with a relaxed fit through the hips and a gentle flare toward the hem. The drawstring waist is made from a simple channel worked at the top of the skirt, threaded with a twisted linen cord or a length of ribbon — your choice. The waistband channel means this skirt is genuinely adjustable and wearable at a range of sizes within each size bracket, which is one of the reasons the fit tends to work so well for so many people.
The lace stitch pattern used in the body of the skirt is a simple eyelet rib variant, worked over a six-stitch, four-row repeat. It is readable, rhythmic, and forgiving of minor tension inconsistencies, which makes it a good choice for knitters who are newer to lace. More experienced lace knitters will find that it works up quickly and produces a satisfying fabric without demanding constant chart-checking. The stitch pattern creates vertical columns of small eyelets separated by gentle ribs, which gives the skirt a lovely elongating visual line.
The A-line shape is achieved through a series of gradual increase rounds worked at even intervals as you knit from the waist downward. This top-down construction means you can try the skirt on as you go, adjusting the length before you bind off.
Materials and Tools
For each size, you’ll need the following:
For a size XS or S, plan on approximately 400 to 480 yards of DK-weight linen or linen-blend yarn. For a size M or L, you’ll need approximately 500 to 580 yards. For sizes XL, 2X, and 3X, plan for 600 to 700 yards. These estimates assume a knee-length skirt of roughly 22 to 24 inches from waistband to hem; if you prefer a longer skirt, purchase an additional 100 to 150 yards.
You’ll also need a US size 4 (3.5mm) circular needle in at least a 32-inch length, or longer if you prefer. A 40-inch circular needle works beautifully for the larger sizes in particular, as it gives the stitches more room to spread out and makes it easier to assess your fabric as you work.
Additional tools include a set of stitch markers — you’ll need at least eight, plus one in a contrasting color for your beginning-of-round marker — a tapestry needle for finishing, scissors, and a measuring tape. If you plan to use a ribbon drawstring, you’ll need about one yard of half-inch ribbon in a complementary color. If you prefer a twisted cord, you can make one from your project yarn.
Optional but recommended: a row counter, either physical or on your phone, since the lace pattern is worked over a four-row repeat and it’s easy to lose track of which row you’re on after a long knitting session.
Gauge
Gauge matters significantly for a garment like this, so please swatch before you begin. The target gauge for this pattern is 22 stitches and 28 rounds per 4 inches, measured in the lace stitch pattern after blocking.
Linen yarn changes noticeably after blocking, often opening up the lace eyelets and relaxing the fabric by as much as half an inch over four inches. For this reason, it’s important to wet-block your swatch before measuring it. To wet-block your swatch, soak it in cool water for about ten minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water (do not wring), lay it flat on a towel, and let it dry completely. Measure only after it is fully dry.
If your gauge is tighter than the target (more stitches per inch), try going up a needle size. If your gauge is looser, try going down. Your goal is to match the stitch gauge as closely as possible; the row gauge is less critical for a top-down skirt where you can adjust length as you knit.
Sizing and Finished Measurements
This pattern is sized XS through 3X. Here are the finished waist and hip measurements for each size, with the understanding that the drawstring waist is adjustable by a few inches in either direction.
The XS is designed for a finished waist measurement of 26 inches and a finished hip measurement of 36 inches. The S corresponds to a 28-inch waist and 38-inch hips. The M is designed for a 30-inch waist and 40-inch hips. The L corresponds to a 32-inch waist and 43-inch hips. The XL is designed for a 35-inch waist and 46-inch hips. The 2X corresponds to a 38-inch waist and 50-inch hips. The 3X is designed for a 42-inch waist and 54-inch hips.
The pattern is written with approximately 4 to 5 inches of positive ease at the hip, meaning the finished skirt will measure 4 to 5 inches more than your actual hip measurement. This ease is what gives the skirt its comfortable, flowing A-line silhouette rather than a fitted or tailored look. If you prefer less ease, size down; if you like a more relaxed fit with more movement in the hem, size up.
The finished length from waistband to hem is approximately 23 inches for all sizes, which lands at or just below the knee on most people of average height. Instructions for adjusting length are included in the pattern.
Construction Overview
The skirt is knitted in the round from the top down. You’ll begin with the waistband channel, which is worked in a simple stockinette tube that folds over to create the drawstring casing. After joining and folding the waistband, you’ll pick up the working stitches and begin the lace pattern.
The body of the skirt is worked in the lace stitch pattern with increase rounds placed at regular intervals to create the A-line flare. The increases are worked as yarn-overs that are incorporated into the lace pattern, so the increase rounds blend seamlessly into the fabric rather than creating visible lines.
Once you reach the desired length, you’ll work a simple picot bind-off that echoes the delicate quality of the lace pattern and creates a decorative, slightly scalloped edge at the hem.
After finishing the knitting, you’ll wet-block the skirt, thread the drawstring, and it’s ready to wear.
Pattern Instructions
Waistband Channel
Using a long-tail cast-on or your preferred stretchy cast-on, cast on the following number of stitches for your size: XS — 144 sts, S — 156 sts, M — 168 sts, L — 180 sts, XL — 198 sts, 2X — 216 sts, 3X — 234 sts.
Place a contrasting marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Work in stockinette (knit every round) for 1.5 inches. On the next round, work the eyelet round for the drawstring opening as follows: K2, yo, k2tog, k6; repeat from to last 6 sts, yo, k2tog, k4. This creates evenly spaced eyelets around the waistband channel. Continue in stockinette for another 1.5 inches, then fold the waistband in half toward the inside of the work and join the live stitches to the cast-on edge by knitting each stitch together with the corresponding cast-on stitch. This creates the enclosed channel.
Setting Up the Lace Pattern
Place eight stitch markers evenly around the round to divide your stitches into eight equal sections. These markers will guide your increase placement as the skirt grows.
Begin the lace stitch pattern as follows. The pattern is worked over a six-stitch repeat.
Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, ssk, k1; repeat from to end.
Row 2: Knit all stitches.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, yo, k3; repeat from to end.
Row 4: Knit all stitches.
Repeat these four rows throughout the body of the skirt. Because you are working in the round, all rows are right-side rows, and your knit stitches will produce a smooth stockinette ground for the lace rather than a purl-back ground.
Increase Rounds
Work the lace pattern as established for 1.5 inches from the base of the waistband. Then begin the increase rounds. On each increase round, work one yarn-over before and after each stitch marker (adding two stitches per marker, for 16 new stitches per increase round). Place the yarn-overs so that they fall at the beginning and end of a lace column, which will incorporate them cleanly into the pattern.
Work an increase round every 1.5 inches, for a total of eight increase rounds. After all increase rounds are complete, you will have added 128 stitches to the original stitch count, creating the A-line flare.
Continue working even in the lace pattern until the skirt measures approximately 21 inches from the waistband base, or 2 inches less than your desired finished length.
Hem Edging
Work two rounds of plain knit. Then work the picot bind-off as follows: Using a cable cast-on, cast on 2 stitches, then bind off 4 stitches; repeat from until all stitches are bound off. This creates a delicate scalloped edge along the hem.
Finishing
Weave in all ends using your tapestry needle. Wet-block the skirt by soaking it in cool water, gently pressing out the excess water, and laying it flat to dry. You can use blocking pins to open up the lace eyelets along the hem if you’d like a more pronounced lace effect, or simply smooth the fabric with your hands for a softer, more relaxed finish. Both approaches look beautiful.
Once the skirt is dry, thread your ribbon or twisted cord through the waistband channel eyelets. A blunt tapestry needle or a bodkin makes this easier. Tie the drawstring at the desired length, try the skirt on, and adjust as needed.
Tips for Knitting with Linen
A few things are worth knowing before you start. Linen yarn can be harder on your hands than wool or cotton, especially if you’re knitting for long stretches. Taking regular breaks and keeping your tension relaxed will help. Some knitters also find it helpful to wear lightweight gloves or use hand cream before a long session.
Linen yarn does not have the same elasticity as wool, which means it’s less forgiving of uneven tension. If you’re coming from a background of knitting with wool or acrylic, you may need a session or two to adjust your technique. Working at a somewhat looser tension than you might normally use is a good starting point.
Finally, linen should be washed gently in cool water and laid flat to dry rather than machine-dried. With proper care, a linen knit skirt can last for years and will become increasingly soft and beautiful over time.
Downloading the PDF
The full printable PDF for this Lace Knit Skirt Pattern includes the complete written instructions for all sizes, a lace chart with a full symbol key, schematic drawings with finished measurements, yarn and materials list, and step-by-step finishing instructions. The PDF is formatted for easy printing and includes both a light-background version and a dark-background version to suit different screen and print preferences.
Once you purchase and download the file, you’ll have it permanently in your library to reference any time, print as many times as you need, and share with your local knitting group for a group make-along.
Whether you’re making this skirt for yourself, as a gift, or as your first serious knitted garment project, this pattern is designed to meet you where you are and produce something you’ll be proud to wear. Cast on with good linen, take your time, and enjoy every inch of it.
