How to Crochet a Ladies’ Beach Sarong Skirt in DK Weight Yarn — Waist 55 inches, Length 27 inches
There is something deeply satisfying about arriving at the beach wearing something you made yourself. A flowing crochet sarong skirt is one of those projects that looks far more complicated than it actually is, and once you have worn one, you will want to make one in every colour you own. This pattern is written for a generous fit with a waist measurement of 55 inches and a length of 27 inches, making it an inclusive size that works beautifully as a wrap-style beach cover-up. It is worked in DK weight yarn, which gives it a lovely drape without being too heavy for warm weather.
Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick summer make or someone who has been building their skills and wants to try something wearable, this pattern is designed to be approachable and enjoyable from cast on to finishing. Let us walk through everything you need to know, from the materials to the final stitch.
What You Will Need
Before you sit down with your hook, gather everything together so your project flows smoothly from the start.
Yarn: Approximately 400–500 metres of DK weight yarn. Cotton or a cotton-blend DK is the most popular choice for beach and summer wear because it is breathable, holds its shape well when wet, and washes beautifully. Look for a yarn labelled as DK or 8-ply with a recommended tension of around 22 stitches to 10 cm in stocking stitch. Popular choices include Rico Creative Cotton DK, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, Drops Paris, or any affordable DK cotton from your local yarn shop or online marketplace. If you prefer a slightly more fluid drape, a viscose or bamboo-blend DK also works well for this pattern.
Hook: A 4.0 mm crochet hook is the standard starting point for DK weight yarn, though you should always check your tension and adjust accordingly. Some crocheters naturally work tight stitches and may find a 4.5 mm hook gives a better result.
Notions: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a tape measure, scissors, and approximately 2 metres of ribbon, cord, or crochet chain for the waistband tie. You may also want stitch markers to keep track of your rounds or rows.
Tension: For this pattern, aim for approximately 16 stitches and 10 rows to measure 10 cm in double crochet using a 4.0 mm hook. The exact tension matters less here than in a fitted garment because the sarong is designed to be a relaxed, wrap-style piece, but checking your tension before you begin will help you achieve the correct final dimensions.
Understanding the Design
This sarong skirt is worked in the round from the waistband downward, which means you will be working in a continuous spiral to create the tube shape of the skirt. The waistband is worked first as a simple foundation that also forms the casing for your tie, and then the body of the skirt is built up in rows of mesh or shell stitches that create a beautiful open, lacy texture perfect for the beach.
The finished skirt has a wrap-over feel rather than a completely closed cylinder. The front features a deliberate opening that allows you to pull one side across the other and tie it at the waist, giving the traditional sarong silhouette. This means the skirt will fit a wide range of waist and hip sizes comfortably — the 55-inch waist measurement refers to the total circumference of the waistband when laid flat and doubled, giving you generous ease for wrapping and tying.
The length of 27 inches from waistband to hem falls just below the knee for most women of average height, making it a classic mid-length cover-up. If you would like it longer or shorter, you can easily adjust by adding or removing pattern repeats in the body section.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
All abbreviations follow UK crochet terminology.
ch — chain
ss — slip stitch
dc — double crochet
htr — half treble crochet
tr — treble crochet
dtr — double treble crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
st — stitch
rem — remaining
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
The Pattern
Step One: The Waistband
Begin by creating a foundation chain that will form the waistband of your skirt. This section is intentionally simple so that it lies flat and comfortably against the body.
Chain 180. This gives you a foundation of 180 chains which, when worked in double crochet with a 4.0 mm hook in DK cotton, should measure approximately 55 inches in total length. Before joining, lay the chain flat and measure it against a tape measure to confirm this. If you are working slightly tighter or looser than the given tension, adjust your chain count in multiples of 6 to keep the stitch pattern correct in the body.
Row 1: Work 1 dc into the second chain from the hook and into every chain to the end. Turn. You now have 179 dc.
Row 2: Chain 3 (this counts as your first tr throughout). Work 1 tr into each stitch across. Turn.
Row 3: Chain 1. Work 1 dc into each stitch across. Turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 3.
Row 5: Chain 3. Work 1 tr into each stitch across. Turn.
Row 6: Chain 1. Work 1 dc into each stitch across. Do not turn. You will now join the waistband into a ring.
To join: Carefully fold the waistband so that the two short ends are aligned. Hold them together and work a slip stitch through both layers across the short edge to join them together, creating the waist tube. This joining seam will sit at the centre back of the finished skirt.
Your waistband now forms a ring approximately 55 inches in circumference and about 2.5 inches deep.
To create the channel for your tie: With the RS of the waistband facing, join yarn to the top edge of the waistband with a slip stitch. Chain 1, then work a round of double crochet evenly around the top edge, working approximately one dc per row end or stitch. Slip stitch to join.
Work one more round of double crochet. On the next round, create buttonholes for the tie to thread through by working 5 dc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, rep from evenly around the round. On the following round, work dc into each stitch and 2 dc into each ch-2 space to close the buttonholes neatly. Finish with one final round of dc and fasten off.
Step Two: The Body
The body of the skirt is worked directly from the lower edge of the waistband in a repeating shell and mesh pattern that creates the characteristic open, beachy look. The pattern repeat used here is a multiple of 6 stitches, which divides neatly into the 180-stitch foundation.
Join your yarn to any stitch along the lower edge of the waistband with a slip stitch.
Foundation Round: Chain 1. Work 1 dc into each stitch around the lower edge of the waistband. Slip stitch to join. You should have 180 dc. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and move it up as you go.
Round 1: Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr and ch 1 throughout). Skip 1 st. 1 tr, ch 1, skip 1 st, rep from around. Slip stitch to join to the third chain of the starting chain-4. (90 ch-1 spaces)
Round 2: Slip stitch into first ch-1 space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Work 2 tr into same ch-1 space. Ch 1, skip next ch-1 space, 5 tr into following ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next ch-1 space, 3 tr into following ch-1 space. Rep from around, ending with ch 1, slip stitch to top of beginning ch-3.
Round 3: Chain 1. Dc into top of first ch-3. Ch 3, dc into ch-1 space, ch 3, dc into centre tr of 5-tr shell. Rep from around. Slip stitch to join.
Round 4: Slip stitch into first ch-3 space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Work 4 tr into same ch-3 space. Ch 1, dc into dc, ch 1, 5 tr into ch-3 space. Rep from around. Slip stitch to top of beginning ch-3.
Round 5: Chain 1. Dc into top of first ch-3. Ch 3, dc into ch-1 space, dc into dc, dc into ch-1 space, ch 3, dc into centre tr of shell. Rep from around. Slip stitch to join.
Repeat Rounds 2 through 5 until the body of the skirt measures approximately 24 inches from the lower edge of the waistband. This will bring your total skirt length close to the target 27 inches when the waistband is included.
Step Three: The Hem
The hem adds a decorative finishing touch and helps the skirt hang beautifully.
Hem Round 1: Join yarn to any stitch at the lower edge of the last completed round. Chain 3. Work 2 tr into the same stitch. Ch 2, skip 2 sts, 3 tr into next stitch. Rep from around. Slip stitch to join.
Hem Round 2: Slip stitch across to the ch-2 space. Chain 3. Work (2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) into same ch-2 space — this is your first corner shell. Ch 1, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) into next ch-2 space. Rep from around. Slip stitch to join.
Hem Round 3: Slip stitch across to ch-2 space. Chain 1. Work 5 dc into ch-2 space, 1 dc into ch-1 space. Rep from around. Slip stitch to join. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends securely using your tapestry needle. Give the ends a gentle tug to make sure they are woven in from multiple directions and will not come loose during wear or washing.
Making the Waist Tie
Cut a length of ribbon, cord, or satin tie approximately 180 cm long. Alternatively, you can crochet a chain tie directly in your yarn: chain approximately 300, then slip stitch back along the chain to make a firm, flat cord. Thread the tie through the buttonholes along the top edge of the waistband, beginning and ending at the centre front so that both ends hang down for tying.
Finishing and Blocking
Crochet beach garments benefit enormously from a good blocking session before their first wear. Dampen the finished skirt thoroughly by soaking it in cool water for ten minutes, then gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay the skirt flat on a blocking mat or a clean towel, smooth it out to the correct measurements, and leave it to dry completely away from direct sunlight.
Blocking opens up the lace pattern significantly and gives the fabric a professional, draping finish that makes all the difference to how the skirt looks on the body.
Sizing Notes and Adjustments
The waist measurement of 55 inches gives this skirt a very relaxed, wrap-over fit. For a closer fit at the waist, you can reduce the foundation chain, remembering to keep it in a multiple of 6. For a longer skirt, simply continue working the body rounds until you reach your preferred length before working the hem.
If you are making this for a girl rather than a woman, scale down the foundation chain proportionally. For a child’s waist of approximately 24 inches, a foundation chain of around 80–90 stitches worked at the same tension would give you an appropriate starting width, and you would reduce the total length to 16–18 inches.
Care Instructions
Most DK cotton yarns are machine washable on a cool or delicate cycle. Always check the ball band of your specific yarn for guidance. Reshape while damp if necessary, and avoid tumble drying cotton crochet as it can cause shrinkage and distortion.
Why This Makes a Wonderful Project
This sarong skirt is the kind of project you will come back to again and again. It is fast enough to be satisfying — most crocheters can complete the whole thing over a long weekend — but detailed enough to keep you engaged. The lace pattern looks impressive but relies on just a few basic stitches repeated in sequence, making it perfect for anyone at an improver level or above.
The finished piece is also incredibly practical. It rolls up small enough to tuck into a beach bag, dries quickly after a swim, and pairs just as beautifully with sandals and a sun hat as it does over a swimsuit. Made in a bright summer colour like coral, turquoise, or sunshine yellow, it becomes an instant statement piece. Worked in cream or white cotton, it has a timeless, elegant look that works across multiple seasons.
If you are planning to list finished garments or the pattern itself online — for example on eBay UK or Etsy — this design photographs particularly well against a plain background or on a dress form, with the lace detailing catching the light beautifully. The waistband lies flat and shows the casing detail clearly, while the skirt hem fans out to display the shell pattern at its best.
Final Tips for Success
Use stitch markers generously throughout, particularly when working in the round, as it is easy to lose track of your round beginnings in an open lace pattern. Count your stitches at the end of every round for the first few repeats until the pattern becomes second nature.
If you are new to working in the round, remember that in crochet — unlike knitting — the right side always faces you when you work in a continuous spiral without turning. This means your tension tends to be more consistent throughout the project.
Choose a yarn colour you genuinely love because you will be spending several enjoyable hours with it, and the colour you choose will directly affect how the lace pattern reads. Solid colours and semi-solids show the stitch definition most clearly, while variegated or print yarns can obscure the pattern slightly but create a beautiful painterly effect that works particularly well in a relaxed beach piece like this one.
Happy crocheting, and enjoy every moment on the beach in something made by your own hands.
