Simple Midi Skirt Free Knitting Pattern: A Complete Guide for All Skill Levels

There is something undeniably satisfying about wearing a garment you made yourself, especially when it fits perfectly, drapes beautifully, and earns you compliments every time you step out the door. A midi skirt is one of those wardrobe staples that never goes out of style, and when you knit one yourself, you get to choose exactly how it looks, how it feels, and how it fits your unique body. This guide will walk you through a simple midi skirt free knitting pattern that is accessible for beginners while still offering enough texture and shaping interest to keep experienced knitters engaged.

Whether you are new to garment knitting or you have been casting on since childhood, this pattern is designed to be approachable, adaptable, and genuinely enjoyable to work through. Let’s talk about everything you need to know before you pick up your needles.

Why Knit a Midi Skirt?

The midi skirt hits somewhere between the knee and the ankle, which makes it one of the most flattering and versatile lengths a person can wear. It works for nearly every body type, pairs with sneakers and boots alike, and transitions easily from a casual weekend look to something more polished for a dinner out or a day at the office.

When you knit your own midi skirt, you are not limited by what is hanging on a rack in your size or in the color you actually want. You choose the yarn, the color, the drape, the waistband style, and the silhouette. You can make it flowy and romantic or structured and classic. You can knit it in a neutral tone to wear with everything or in a bold, saturated color that becomes the centerpiece of every outfit.

Beyond the aesthetic appeal, knitting a skirt is also a genuinely manageable project. Unlike sweaters, which require fitting a three-dimensional shape around shoulders, armholes, and necklines, a simple skirt is largely worked in the round with straightforward shaping. For many knitters, a skirt is the perfect gateway into garment knitting.

Materials You Will Need

Before diving into the pattern itself, gather everything you need so your project flows without interruption.

Yarn: You will want a yarn with good drape for a skirt. Look for yarns that contain viscose, bamboo, Tencel, or a high percentage of cotton, as these fibers hang beautifully and do not add stiffness the way some wools can. That said, a light merino wool or merino blend can work wonderfully as well, especially if you are knitting for a cooler climate or want a bit more structure. For a midi-length skirt in a size medium, you will typically need between 800 and 1,200 yards, depending on your gauge and the finished length you are aiming for.

Needles: A 4mm (US size 6) circular needle in a 32-inch or 40-inch length is ideal for working in the round. If your gauge calls for a slightly different needle size, always default to matching gauge rather than needle size.

Notions: You will also need a set of stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a measuring tape, and scissors. If you choose to add a waistband with elastic, you will need a length of 1-inch wide elastic cut to your waist measurement, a large safety pin to thread it through, and a sewing needle and thread to close it.

Gauge: For this pattern, aim for approximately 20 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Swatching is not glamorous, but it genuinely matters for garment knitting. A skirt that comes out too wide will slide off your hips, and one that is too narrow will be uncomfortable to wear. Take the time to knit a swatch, wash it the same way you plan to wash the finished skirt, and measure it after it has dried. This step saves a great deal of heartache later.

Sizing and Measurements

This pattern is written for a range of hip measurements: 34 inches, 38 inches, 42 inches, 46 inches, and 50 inches. Throughout the pattern, instructions for each size are written in order with larger sizes in parentheses, like this: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50).

Before you begin, take the following measurements and write them down:

Your waist circumference, your hip circumference at the fullest point, the distance from your natural waist to where you want the skirt to end, and your height, which will help you decide whether to adjust the length.

The finished skirt in this pattern is designed to fall approximately 27 inches below the waistband, which is a classic midi length. You can easily lengthen or shorten it by adding or subtracting rows before the bind-off.

Pattern Notes

This skirt is worked from the waist down in the round. It begins with a folded waistband that creates a channel for the elastic, then opens into the body of the skirt, which is worked in a simple combination of stockinette and a subtle ribbed panel at the hem for structure and visual interest.

The skirt is designed with a slight A-line flare, which is achieved through periodic increase rounds that add stitches evenly around the body, allowing the hem to be wider than the waist for a comfortable, flattering fit.

All increases in this pattern are made-one increases (M1L and M1R), which are nearly invisible and create a smooth, clean line. If you are unfamiliar with these increases, a quick video tutorial will show you the technique in about two minutes and you will use it comfortably for the rest of your knitting life.

Slip all markers as you encounter them unless otherwise instructed.

The Pattern

Cast On and Waistband

Using a long-tail cast-on method, cast on 160 (180, 200, 220, 240) stitches. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Work in 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 16 rounds. This creates a waistband that is approximately 2 inches deep, which will fold in half to form the elastic casing.

On the next round, knit all stitches. This is your turning round and marks the fold line of the waistband.

Work in 2×2 rib for another 16 rounds to complete the inside of the waistband casing.

On the next round, do not join the casing yet. Simply continue to the body section as written below. You will close the waistband and thread the elastic at the end of the project.

Body Setup Round

Knit one full round in stockinette. Place four additional stitch markers evenly spaced around the round so that you have five sections of 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) stitches each, separated by markers (including the beginning-of-round marker).

These markers will guide your increase rounds to keep everything balanced and symmetrical.

Body of the Skirt

Work in stockinette (knit every round) for 10 rounds.

First Increase Round: On the next round, work as follows: knit to 1 stitch before the marker, M1R, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, M1L; repeat from to end of round. You have increased by 10 stitches total and now have 170 (190, 210, 230, 250) stitches.

Continue working in stockinette for 12 rounds.

Second Increase Round: Repeat the increase round as written above. You now have 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) stitches.

Continue in stockinette for 14 rounds.

Third Increase Round: Repeat the increase round. You now have 190 (210, 230, 250, 270) stitches.

Continue in stockinette for 16 rounds.

Fourth Increase Round: Repeat the increase round. You now have 200 (220, 240, 260, 280) stitches.

Continue in stockinette for 18 rounds.

Fifth Increase Round: Repeat the increase round. You now have 210 (230, 250, 270, 290) stitches.

Continue in stockinette for 20 rounds.

Sixth Increase Round: Repeat the increase round. You now have 220 (240, 260, 280, 300) stitches.

At this point, remove the four additional stitch markers, keeping only the beginning-of-round marker. Your skirt body should measure approximately 20 inches from the fold line of the waistband. If you want a longer skirt, continue working in stockinette until you reach your desired length before moving on to the hem section.

Hem Section

Work in 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 20 rounds. This adds approximately 3 inches of ribbed hem that provides a clean, polished edge with a gentle self-finishing quality.

Bind off loosely in pattern using a stretchy bind-off method. A good option is the standard bind-off worked through the back loop, or you can use the Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off if you prefer a particularly elastic edge.

Finishing the Waistband

Fold the waistband along the turning round so that the inside ribbing tucks behind the outside ribbing. Using a tapestry needle and a length of your project yarn, sew the inside edge of the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt body using whipstitch or mattress stitch, leaving a 2-inch gap open on one side for threading the elastic.

Cut your elastic to your waist measurement, then subtract about half an inch to give the waistband a snug fit that will hold the skirt in place without being uncomfortable. Attach a large safety pin to one end of the elastic and use it to thread the elastic through the waistband channel. Overlap the two ends of the elastic by about an inch and stitch them securely together. Ease the elastic join into the casing and close the opening using your tapestry needle and yarn.

Give the waistband a gentle tug all the way around to distribute the elastic evenly, then lay the skirt flat and let everything settle into place.

Blocking and Care

Blocking makes an enormous difference in the finished appearance of a hand-knitted garment. Even if your yarn label suggests it is not necessary, a gentle wet block will open up the stitches, smooth out any uneven tension, and help the skirt hang properly.

To wet block your finished skirt, soak it in lukewarm water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle shampoo for about 20 minutes. Gently press out the excess water — never wring or twist — and then roll the skirt in a clean towel and press again to remove more moisture. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or a clean dry surface, smooth it into shape, and allow it to dry completely before wearing or storing it.

For ongoing care, follow the washing instructions on your yarn label. Most natural fiber yarns do best with a gentle hand wash or a machine wool cycle, while cotton and bamboo blends can often handle slightly more agitation. Store your knitted skirt folded rather than hanging, as hanging can cause garments to stretch over time, especially at the waist.

Customization Ideas

One of the great pleasures of working from a free knitting pattern is the freedom to make it your own. Here are some ideas for adapting this simple midi skirt into something that feels uniquely yours.

Add a slit. When you reach the hem section, rather than working in the round, work back and forth in rows on half of your stitches for the last 10 to 15 rounds. This creates a natural slit at the side. Repeat on the opposite side if you want a two-slit design. Finish each slit edge with a few rows of garter stitch to keep it from curling.

Try a textured stitch pattern. The body of this skirt is worked in stockinette, but it adapts well to other simple stitch patterns. A seed stitch or moss stitch body creates a lovely texture that is still simple enough to work in the round. A basic lace repeat like yarn-over, knit-two-together worked every other round with the right spacing can also create a gorgeous, breezy summer skirt.

Play with color. This pattern is well-suited for color blocking. Work the waistband and upper body in one color, then switch to a contrasting shade for the lower portion. You could also try a subtle gradient effect by switching yarns gradually over several rounds, blending two colors held together for a few rounds at the transition point.

Adjust the length. Make it a maxi skirt by continuing the stockinette body for 10 to 15 more rounds before beginning the hem. Or shorten it to a knee-length skirt by reducing the body to roughly 15 inches before the hem section. The math stays the same; only the number of rounds changes.

Try a different hem. Instead of ribbing at the hem, try a picot hem, a rolled hem worked in reverse stockinette, or a simple row of eyelets followed by a garter border.

Tips for New Garment Knitters

If this is your first time knitting a garment, a few words of encouragement are in order. Garment knitting can feel intimidating, but a skirt is genuinely one of the most forgiving projects to start with. There are no armholes, no neck shaping, and no sleeves to set in. It is essentially a tube with a casing at the top, and you are more than capable of making a tube.

Take your time with the gauge swatch. This is the single step most new garment knitters skip and most experienced knitters wish they had not skipped. An hour spent swatching can save you from days of knitting a skirt that does not fit.

Check your stitch count regularly. At the end of each increase round, count your stitches to make sure the numbers match what the pattern calls for. A dropped stitch or an accidental extra increase is much easier to fix if you catch it two rounds later rather than twenty rounds later.

Do not be afraid to write in your pattern. Mark off rows as you complete them, circle the numbers for your size, and make notes about any changes you make. You will thank yourself if you ever want to knit this skirt again in a different color.

And finally, enjoy the process. Knitting is not just about the finished object. It is about the meditative rhythm of the needles, the texture of the yarn running through your fingers, and the quiet satisfaction of making something beautiful from scratch. A midi skirt is a project that rewards patience, and the day you pull it off the needles and slip it on for the first time is genuinely one of the better feelings in the knitting world.

Final Thoughts

This simple midi skirt free knitting pattern is designed to be worked, worn, and loved. It uses fundamental knitting skills, requires no complicated techniques beyond basic increases, and produces a finished garment that looks polished and professional despite its accessible construction. Whether you work it up in a silky bamboo blend for summer or a cozy merino for cooler months, the result is a skirt that fits beautifully, drapes gracefully, and represents hours of creative work you did entirely with your own hands.

Share your finished skirt on social media and tag your project so other knitters can find inspiration in your work. Every skirt worked from this pattern looks a little different depending on the yarn and the knitter, and that variation is part of what makes handmade clothing so special.

Happy knitting.