Crochet Ribbed Collar Top Tutorial: Step-by-Step Guide to Making Your New Favorite Wearable
If you’ve been scrolling through your social media feed lately, you’ve probably noticed the ribbed collar top trend taking over. That fitted, textured silhouette with a structured neckline is everywhere — and the best part? You can make your own. This crochet ribbed collar top tutorial will walk you through everything from choosing your yarn to finishing those final details, so whether you’re an intermediate crocheter ready for a garment challenge or a confident beginner looking to level up, this project is for you.
Crocheting wearables can feel intimidating at first. Unlike blankets or dishcloths, a top needs to actually fit your body, drape well, and hold its shape over time. But with the right stitch pattern, the right yarn, and a little patience, you’ll have a handmade piece you’ll reach for season after season. Let’s get into it.
What You’ll Need Before You Begin
Before casting on a single stitch, gathering your materials is the most important step. The wrong yarn choice can make even the most beautiful stitch pattern look stiff, droopy, or just plain unflattering on the body. Here’s what you’ll need for this crochet ribbed collar top.
Yarn: Choose a yarn with good stitch definition and a little elasticity. A cotton-acrylic blend is ideal for this project because it gives you the breathability of cotton while the acrylic content adds just enough stretch to make the ribbing pop. You’ll need approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size. For a cropped length, 400 yards is often enough for a small or medium. For a longer, more fitted silhouette or a larger size, plan for closer to 600 yards. Worsted weight (size 4) works beautifully for this design.
Hook: A 5mm (US size H/8) crochet hook is the sweet spot for worsted weight yarn in a wearable. If your gauge tends to run tight, size up to a 5.5mm. If you crochet loosely, try a 4.5mm. Always, always, always swatch before you begin.
Notions: You’ll also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and optionally some blocking mats and pins for finishing.
Gauge: For this pattern, you’re aiming for 14 stitches and 16 rows to equal 4 inches (10cm) in the main ribbing stitch. Take the time to crochet a swatch that’s at least 6 inches square, wash it and let it dry flat before measuring. Gauge can shift significantly after washing, especially with cotton blends.
Understanding the Ribbed Stitch
The signature look of this top comes from the ribbing technique, which in crochet is typically achieved through two methods: working in the back loop only (BLO) or working with front post and back post stitches. For this tutorial, we’ll use a combination approach that gives a deep, stretchy rib that looks almost knit.
The foundation of this stitch pattern is the alternation between Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) and Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc). If you’ve never worked post stitches before, here’s a quick breakdown:
For a Front Post Double Crochet, you insert your hook from front to back around the post (the vertical body) of the stitch below, wrapping the yarn and pulling through just as you would in a regular double crochet. The stitch “pops” forward toward you, creating a raised ridge.
For a Back Post Double Crochet, you insert your hook from back to front around the same post, which pushes the stitch away from you and creates a recessed groove.
When you alternate these two stitches in rows or rounds, you get that beautiful, textured ribbing that gives this top its structure and visual appeal. It sounds more complicated than it is — after a few rows, your hands will find the rhythm naturally.
Sizing and Adjustments
This tutorial is written for a finished bust measurement of 34–36 inches, which typically corresponds to a size small/medium. At the bottom of this section, you’ll find adjustment notes for going up or down in size.
Finished Measurements:
Bust: 34–36 inches (86–91cm)
Length (cropped version): 17 inches from shoulder to hem
Length (full version): 22 inches from shoulder to hem
Collar height: 4 inches
To adjust the size, the key is in your foundation chain or the number of stitches in your starting row. Each additional 14 stitches (based on your gauge) adds approximately 4 inches to your circumference. For a 38–40 inch bust, add 14 stitches. For a 42–44 inch bust, add 28 stitches. Always keep your stitch count in multiples that work with the FPdc/BPdc pattern (multiples of 2 work perfectly here).
The Pattern: Step-by-Step
Step One: Make Your Foundation
Chain 120. This is your foundation chain for the body of the top, worked flat before joining.
Before joining, double-check that your chain isn’t twisted. Lay it flat on a table and make sure all the chain bumps face the same direction. Join with a slip stitch to the first chain, being careful not to twist.
Place a stitch marker at the join point to mark the beginning of each round.
Step Two: Begin the Body Ribbing
Round 1: Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch throughout this pattern), then work 1 double crochet in each chain around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the first double crochet. You should have 120 double crochet stitches.
Round 2: Chain 2, FPdc around the next stitch, BPdc around the following stitch, repeat from to around. Join with a slip stitch. This establishes your rib pattern.
Rounds 3 onward: Repeat Round 2, always working FPdc over the stitches that appear raised (the FPdc from the previous round) and BPdc over the stitches that appear recessed (the BPdc from the previous round). This is the key to maintaining the ribbing — you’re always mirroring what you see from the round below.
Continue working in this ribbed pattern until your piece measures 12 inches from the foundation (for the cropped version) or 17 inches (for the full-length version). Don’t be alarmed if the piece feels stiff at first — ribbing opens up after blocking and wearing.
Step Three: Shaping the Armholes
Now it’s time to create the openings for your armholes. This is worked in two flat sections (front and back) rather than continuing in the round.
Dividing Round: Work in pattern across the first 60 stitches. Leave the remaining 60 stitches unworked for now — this is your back panel. You’ll come back to it.
Armhole Decrease Rows (Front Panel):
Turn your work after those 60 stitches and work back across in pattern. At the beginning and end of the next 3 rows, decrease 1 stitch using a standard decrease method (work two stitches together). You’ll lose 6 stitches total across three decrease rows, leaving you with 54 stitches for the front.
Continue working flat in pattern on these 54 stitches for 5 more inches, which will be the height of your front bodice.
Front Neck Opening:
After those 5 inches, you’ll shape the neckline. Work across the first 18 stitches in pattern, then skip the middle 18 stitches (these form the center front neckline), and work across the last 18 stitches in pattern. You now have two shoulder sections of 18 stitches each.
Work each shoulder section separately for 1 more inch, decreasing 1 stitch at the neckline edge on every row to create a gentle slope. Fasten off each shoulder.
Back Panel:
Rejoin your yarn to the remaining 60 stitches. Work the armhole decreases the same way as the front, leaving you with 54 stitches. Work flat in pattern for 6 inches total (the back bodice is slightly taller than the front to create a subtle scoop at the front neckline). Shape the back neck the same way as the front.
Once both shoulders are complete, use your yarn needle to seam the front and back shoulders together using a slip stitch seam or a whip stitch, whichever you prefer. The slip stitch seam lies flatter and is less visible.
Step Four: Armhole Edging
With your body seamed at the shoulders, it’s time to clean up those armhole openings. Join your yarn at the underarm point and work a round of single crochet evenly around the entire armhole opening. For a cleaner edge, work a second round in reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch). This stitch creates a lovely twisted edge that doesn’t curl or roll.
Fasten off and weave in ends on both armholes.
Step Five: The Ribbed Collar
This is the showstopper detail that gives the top its name, and it’s built directly onto the neckline rather than sewn on separately, which means it drapes and moves naturally with the fabric.
Join your yarn at the center back of the neckline.
Round 1 of Collar: Work a round of double crochet evenly around the entire neckline opening. For a smooth pickup, work approximately 1 double crochet for every row along the sides of the neck, and 1 double crochet in each stitch across the front and back neck edges. Aim for a stitch count that’s a multiple of 2. Join with a slip stitch.
Rounds 2–12 of Collar: Work in the FPdc/BPdc ribbing pattern, exactly as you did for the body. Work these 11 rounds without any increases or decreases — you want the collar to stand up straight rather than flare out. If your collar starts to flare, try reducing your hook size by half a size for the collar rounds only.
After 11 rounds (which will give you roughly a 4-inch collar), do not fasten off. Instead, fold the collar down and work 1 final round of single crochet through both layers (the top live edge and the pickup round at the base) to create a clean fold line. This step is optional but gives the collar a really polished look.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Finishing and Blocking
Blocking a crochet top is non-negotiable if you want it to look truly professional. The difference between a blocked and unblocked crochet garment is dramatic, and many people give up on wearables before ever experiencing what their project can look like after proper finishing.
Fill a sink or basin with cool or lukewarm water and a drop of wool wash or gentle dish soap. Submerge your top and let it soak for 15–20 minutes. Don’t agitate it — just let it absorb the water fully. Lift it out gently (never wring), then press out excess water by rolling it in a clean towel.
Lay your top flat on blocking mats or a clean carpet. Gently shape it to your intended measurements, pinning along the collar to encourage it to stand up, pinning the hem to encourage it to lie flat, and making sure the body is even and smooth. Let it dry completely — this usually takes 24 hours.
Once dry, your stitches will look more even, the ribbing will have better definition, and the collar will hold its shape beautifully.
Styling Your Crochet Ribbed Collar Top
The fun part! Because this top has structured ribbing and a statement collar, it pairs well with simple, unfussy bottoms. Here are a few ideas:
High-waisted wide-leg trousers in a linen or satin fabric make the collar the center of attention while balancing the fitted silhouette of the top. A midi skirt in a flowing fabric like chiffon or silk creates a beautiful contrast between the texture of the crochet and the smoothness of the skirt. For a more casual look, high-waisted straight-leg jeans and white sneakers let the top do the talking without competing with anything below the waist.
Since this top is worked in a solid color, it’s also a great base for layering under open blazers or over turtleneck bodysuits for colder weather.
Tips for Crochet Wearables Success
A few things that will make this project (and every garment project you attempt in the future) go more smoothly:
Always swatch. This cannot be overstated. A half-inch difference in gauge across 4 inches translates to a several-inch difference across your bust circumference. Five minutes of swatching saves hours of frustration.
Keep your tension consistent. Ribbing in particular is sensitive to tension changes. If you put your project down and come back to it, take a few stitches to re-establish your rhythm before continuing.
Don’t skip the collar pickup round. Going around the neckline to pick up stitches cleanly is a small step that makes an enormous visual difference. An uneven collar pickup will haunt you every time you wear the top.
Use stitch markers generously. Mark your beginning-of-round, mark the midpoint of your body (the side seam position), and mark the beginning of any decrease sequences. They’re free to use and they save you from having to recount every few rows.
Trust the blocking process. Crochet ribbing looks bunchy and uneven off the hook. Don’t judge your project until it’s been blocked and dried. You might be surprised how different it looks.
Final Thoughts
This crochet ribbed collar top tutorial brings together several techniques — post stitches, armhole shaping, flat construction, and collar building — in a way that’s achievable for anyone who’s comfortable with basic crochet stitches and ready for a little bit of a challenge. The result is a garment that looks genuinely complex and polished, but that you can absolutely make yourself with a weekend’s worth of focused crocheting.
Wearables have a reputation for being difficult, but so much of that reputation comes from poor yarn choices, skipped swatching, and skipped blocking. With the right foundation, a ribbed collar top is one of the most satisfying projects you can take on — because every time you wear it, you get to say you made it.
If you give this pattern a try, share your finished top with the crochet community. Tag your project, post your progress, and don’t hesitate to adjust the length, collar height, or construction to make it your own. That’s one of the best parts of making your own clothes: it fits you, because you made it for you.
Happy crocheting!
