Daisy Flower Crochet Top 🌼🧶 | Easy Step-by-Step Crochet Pattern

There is something undeniably magical about wearing something you made with your own hands. A crochet top is one of those projects that sits right at the intersection of functional and artistic — it’s wearable, it’s beautiful, and when you add a daisy motif into the mix, it becomes something truly special. This daisy flower crochet top pattern is designed for crocheters who are comfortable with the basics and ready to step into something a little more rewarding. Whether you’re making it for a summer festival, a beach vacation, or simply to celebrate your love of the craft, this top will become a staple in your handmade wardrobe.

Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about what makes this design so appealing. The daisy motif has been a beloved element in crochet for decades. Its simple petal-and-center construction translates beautifully into both standalone flower squares and all-over surface patterns. For this top, we’ll be using individual daisy motifs joined together to form the body of the garment, giving it that light, airy, boho feel that’s so popular right now. The negative space created by joining motifs also means excellent breathability — perfect for warm weather wearing.

Materials You’ll Need

Getting your materials together before you start is one of those habits that will save you a lot of frustration mid-project. Here’s everything you need to complete this daisy flower crochet top.

Yarn: Choose a cotton yarn in a light to medium weight (DK or worsted), ideally around 200–400 yards depending on your size. Cotton is ideal for tops because it breathes well, holds its shape, and has a lovely drape. A sport-weight cotton in white or cream works beautifully for the daisy petals, with a contrasting yellow or golden yarn for the flower centers. You can also work this entirely in one color for a more subtle, tonal look.

Hook: A 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook works well with most DK-weight cotton. Always check your gauge swatch before starting.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends and joining motifs, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape.

Gauge: One finished daisy motif should measure approximately 4 inches by 4 inches (10cm x 10cm) after blocking. Gauge is important for garments, so make at least one or two test motifs before committing to the full project.

Understanding the Daisy Motif

The heart of this pattern is the individual daisy flower motif. Once you’ve mastered making a single daisy, the rest of the top is simply a matter of making more and joining them cleverly. Let’s break down how the motif works.

Each daisy consists of three parts: the center ring, the petal layer, and the joining round. The center ring creates the circular foundation for your flower. The petal layer builds out the recognizable elongated petals that give the daisy its classic shape. The joining round adds a flat border around the flower that makes it easy to sew or slip-stitch motifs together.

One of the things beginners sometimes worry about is whether the motifs will lie flat. With cotton yarn and the right hook size, this usually isn’t a problem — especially after a quick blocking session. Blocking cotton crochet is simple: just wet the piece, gently squeeze out the excess water, pin it to your measurements on a foam board, and let it dry completely. The difference blocking makes is remarkable.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
tr — treble crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
yo — yarn over
MR — magic ring

Daisy Motif Pattern

Round 1 — Center Ring: Using your contrast color (yellow), make a magic ring. Chain 1, then work 10 single crochets into the ring. Pull the magic ring closed snugly, then slip stitch to the first single crochet to join. (10 sc)

Round 2 — Petal Setup: Still in contrast color, chain 1. Work one single crochet into the same stitch. Chain 5, skip 1 stitch, single crochet in next stitch. Repeat from to four more times. Chain 5, slip stitch to the first single crochet to join. You should now have 5 chain-5 loops fanning out from the center. (5 petal loops)

Round 3 — Petals: Join your main color (white or cream) to any chain-5 loop. Into that loop, work: 1 single crochet, 1 half double crochet, 3 double crochets, 1 half double crochet, 1 single crochet. This forms one petal. Slip stitch to the base of the petal, then move to the next loop and repeat. Work one petal into each of the 5 chain-5 loops. When you’ve completed all 5 petals, slip stitch to the top of the first single crochet to join. (5 petals)

Round 4 — Behind the Petals: This round is worked behind the petals of Round 3 to create additional loops for more petals. Working behind the petals, join a new strand of yarn (or use your yellow) to the slip stitch junction between any two petals. Chain 6. Slip stitch into the next junction between petals, chain 6. Repeat all the way around, creating 5 chain-6 loops behind the first set of petals. Slip stitch to close.

Round 5 — Second Petal Layer: Join your main color to any chain-6 loop. Into that loop work: 1 single crochet, 1 half double crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 treble crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 half double crochet, 1 single crochet. This makes a slightly larger petal that fans out behind the first layer. Work one of these petals into each chain-6 loop. Slip stitch to join at the end. (5 larger petals)

Round 6 — Square Border: This round transforms your round daisy into a roughly square motif, making it easy to join with other squares. Join yarn in the gap between any two large petals. Chain 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same space. Chain 2. 3 dc in same space. This creates a corner. Chain 1, skip to the center of the next petal, sc in top of petal, chain 1. Then work the next corner into the gap between that petal and the following one. Repeat all the way around, creating 4 corners. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain-3 to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Your finished motif should look like a daisy framed in a soft square. Block it gently and set it aside, then make as many as you need for your size.

How Many Motifs Do You Need?

The number of motifs depends on your size and the construction of the top. Here’s a general guide based on a finished motif size of 4 inches square.

For a cropped top, the body is typically constructed as a rectangle of motifs worked from side to side and then folded and joined at the shoulders. A simple cropped version with adjustable ties at the shoulders is the most beginner-friendly approach.

For an XS/S size, plan for approximately 20–24 motifs. For a M/L size, plan for 28–32 motifs. For an XL/XXL size, plan for 34–40 motifs. These numbers account for the front panel, back panel, and any shoulder or strap sections.

It’s always a good idea to make a couple of extra motifs just in case. Running out of a specific dye lot partway through a garment is one of those crochet experiences nobody wants to have twice.

Joining the Motifs

There are several ways to join crochet motifs, and the method you choose will affect both the look and the structure of your top. For this daisy top, a flat slip stitch join is recommended because it creates a visible, decorative seam that complements the floral aesthetic beautifully.

To join two motifs with a flat slip stitch join, hold them right sides together. Using your hook and a new length of yarn (in either your main color or a contrasting one for a boho look), insert your hook through the corresponding corner chain-2 spaces of both motifs and pull up a loop. Insert hook through the next pair of corresponding stitches on both motifs and pull the yarn through both stitches and the loop on your hook. Repeat across until all stitches along that edge are joined. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Lay out your motifs before you start joining. A common layout for a crochet top is 4 columns of motifs wide and enough rows to cover from just under your bust to your desired hem length for a cropped top, or from your bust to your hip for a longer version. Doubling this panel gives you front and back, which are then joined at the sides and shoulders.

Alternatively, you can work the front and back as one continuous rectangle that wraps around your torso, joined only at the sides. This is a great option if you want to minimize seaming.

Constructing the Top

Once all your motifs are joined into two rectangular panels (or one long rectangle), it’s time to assemble the top.

Shoulder Seams: Lay the front and back panels on a flat surface with the right sides facing up. Line up the top edges and join the outer 1–2 motifs on each side at the top to create shoulder straps. Leave the center open as the neckline. How much you join at the shoulders will determine how wide your neckline is — a wider neckline gives an off-shoulder or boho look, while joining more motifs creates a more modest scoop neck.

Side Seams: Join the side edges of the front and back panels using the same slip stitch join method described above. Leave the top portion open for armholes. A standard armhole on a fitted crop top is approximately 7–8 inches deep, though you can adjust this based on preference.

Finishing the Edges: The raw edges of joined motifs can feel unfinished without a border. Work one round of single crochet around the neckline, armholes, and hem to stabilize the edges and give the top a polished look. For the hem, you can add a simple picot edging — work 3 single crochets, then chain 3 and slip stitch back into the first of those 3 sc to form a little picot point, then repeat — which echoes the delicate feel of the daisy motif beautifully.

Strap and Tie Options

One of the most fun parts of making a crochet top is customizing the straps. Here are a few options to consider.

Simple Chain Ties: For each shoulder, work a long crochet chain (about 30–40 chains) from each corner of the top edge. These can be tied in a bow at the shoulders, making the fit fully adjustable and giving the top a romantic, vintage feel.

Crocheted Straps: Work two strips of single crochet, about 1 inch wide and however long you need for your shoulder-to-shoulder measurement plus a little extra. Sew or slip stitch these firmly to the top front and back edges.

Halter Neck: For a halter style, work a long chain from the center top of the front panel. This can be looped around the neck and tied, creating a dramatically different silhouette from the same base garment.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

Good crochet outcomes come from preparation as much as from skill. Here are a few things that will make a real difference on this project.

Wash your yarn before you begin if you plan to wash the finished garment. Cotton can shrink slightly, and pre-washing eliminates surprises. Block every single motif before joining them. Unblocked motifs are harder to join evenly and the finished garment won’t lie as smoothly. Take your time with the joining stage — the flatness and evenness of your seams will determine how polished the finished top looks more than almost anything else. Count your motifs against your measurements before sewing anything together, since it’s much easier to add or remove a motif before joining than after.

If you’re new to making garments, don’t be discouraged by the measuring and sizing aspects. Crochet tops made from motifs are actually more forgiving than you might think, since the open mesh structure has natural give, and the boho aesthetic of this style is wonderfully accommodating of slight variations.

Customizing Your Daisy Top

One of the greatest joys of making your own garments is the freedom to make them exactly the way you want. Here are some ideas for customizing this pattern to make it your own.

Change the color palette entirely. A white daisy on a soft sage green background is gorgeous. Earthy terracotta with cream petals feels bohemian and warm. An all-black version with black-on-black texture is sophisticated and unexpected. You could also work each daisy in a different colorway for a wildflower garden effect that feels playful and joyful.

Change the motif size by going up or down a hook size or by adding an extra petal round. Larger motifs mean fewer joins and a bolder graphic look. Smaller motifs give more intricate detail and a finer, lacier appearance.

Add embellishments. Tiny beads threaded onto the yarn before you crochet the petal rounds will catch the light and add subtle sparkle. Small sewn-on buttons in the center of each daisy are an adorable finishing touch. Ribbon woven through the joining seams adds another layer of texture and color.

Adjust the length to make a full tank top rather than a cropped style by simply adding more rows of motifs. Going longer still gets you a crochet dress, which uses the exact same technique and motif — just a lot more of them.

Caring for Your Crochet Top

Cotton crochet garments are relatively easy to care for compared to wool or acrylic, but a few good habits will keep your top looking beautiful for years.

Hand washing in cool water with a gentle detergent is always the safest option. If you must machine wash, use a delicate cycle inside a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, since wet cotton is heavy and hanging can stretch the garment out of shape. Store your top folded rather than on a hanger for the same reason.

With good care, a handmade cotton crochet top can last for many years and will likely become one of those beloved wardrobe pieces that you reach for again and again.

Final Thoughts

Making a daisy flower crochet top from scratch is one of those projects that feels satisfying at every stage. Each individual motif is a tiny, complete thing of beauty. Watching them accumulate into a pile on your table and then transform into an actual wearable garment is deeply rewarding. The finished top carries that handmade warmth that no manufactured garment can quite replicate — every stitch is yours, every join was made by your hands, and every daisy petal was placed with intention.

Whether this is your first crochet garment or your fiftieth, we hope this pattern brings you hours of enjoyment and a top you’re truly proud to wear. Share your finished makes online and tag your creations so the crochet community can celebrate with you — there’s nothing quite like seeing the same pattern bloom into dozens of unique, personal interpretations.

Happy crocheting, and may your yarn never tangle. 🌼🧶